keith w
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Posts posted by keith w
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Does anyone know of a special tool for inserting and removing the pins from the type of housing attached? Does this have a specific name?
Thanks
Keith
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Hi Len, not in Kent I'm afraid but any body shop should be able to chemically strip your wings, it's only a variation of Nitromoors. If the wings are off the car you might want to have a go yourself. My daughter and I did most of a TR7 shell this way under the guidance of our friendly body shop that is. You can wash it off with white spirit rather than water if like me you are nervous about getting water near bare metal.
Our guy is at Thruxton if you need his details but I suspect you will be able to find someone more local.
Good luck
Keith
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That's good news Ian, I'll give it a go. Many thanks.
Keith
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Roger Williams suggests in his book How to Restore Triumph TR7 & 8, an alternative to lifting out the engine and gearbox.(2-litre engine) -----
"Option 2 is to unbolt the the underside fastenings, remove the front wheels, and lower the front of the car onto several wooden blocks. Once the subframe, engine and gearox are secure, lift the front of the body shell upward until clear of the frame/engine/box assembly, and then roll the car backwards."
Can anyone let me know of their experience of doing this?
I think it would suit my needs better this way. I have only 7'6" headroom. I guess the front struts need to be clamped compressed or removed completely. No bad thing as I can install the top strut roller bearing mod while I'm at it. I'm wondering where the best attachment points are for the body and if I can do this with an engine crane.
Thanks, Keith.
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Indeed the two are different. The older types are recessed while the later ones are flush. Looking closer at my 'original' shows some damage so I think it's time for a replacement. Thanks for your replies gents.
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I have a late push button type bootlock rescued as part of my Grinnall restoration, but no key that will operate the lock. Is there any way of finding the key number from the lock itself?
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I may be a bit late with this but I only recently got round to watching this gentle but quite good comedy a week or two back. The hero drives an immaculate TR7 Hardtop which according to the Daily Wail, the series designer bought rather than hired in case a second series was commissioned.
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Thanks for you replies Alec and Andreas. Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree. However work is suspended for the moment because the gearbox oil fell out of the red one pictured. It looks like a front seal failure. I must keep one TR on the road mustn't I?
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I have had a complete shell fettle and paint at a small company on the Thruxton Indusdtrial Estate near Andover Hants. Using it as a long term 'filler in' in between other jobs we agreed an hourly rate of £30 per hour. It took two years though, but I wasn't in a hurry and it was an A1 job. It's worth a phone call , ask for Roger at Border Coachworks, 01264 772422.
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When I eventually get to putting the engine back in my Grinnall, I'd like to shorten the protruding part of the shaft which once carried the viscous coupling and fan. It always looks ready to punch through the radiator I think. Is it a simple matter of using and angle grinder with a thin cutting disc or am I heading for trouble?
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Thanks for the advice both. I'll stick with the Fitchett's TR7 tank in that case as it's new. The TR8 tank is perforated but I suppose it could be welded by a specialist. Definitely not by me!
Alec, beer no problem. I'll be in touch further down the line.
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I bought a new TR7 fuel tank from Fitchett's of Telford some time ago now. I've just come to put it into my Grinnall rebuild to find the old tank is specifically a TR8 tank. It has two hole in it, one for the sender assembly and another for the fuel in and out lines. Has anyone found a source of TR8 tanks or have they found a way of using a standard tank?
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Does anyone else find they can move their distributor cap slightly when it's in situ? It's almost like the spring clips holding it down are the wrong width or not strong enough. It doesn't seem to affect the car's running but I'm just nervous it's going to do something unpredictable. This is on a 1981 4-pot by the way.
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Thanks Alec, that's what I thought. I'll hang on to what I can for now.
Best wishes to V8lady and yourself.
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I'm about half an hour south of Newbury and could help if Bizman can't get there. I'm a bit busy this weekend but next week is a possibility. Likewise I'd appreciate advice on how to do this.
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Like many of us I have a collection of rusty old bits and could do with the space in the garage. Given that some TR7/8 original spares are becoming increasingly rare, it's difficult to know what might be repairable in future and what is simply too far gone to be of much use, for example double bulge bonnet, spare wheel well, fuel tanks complete with pin holes (impossibly dangerous to repair I assume - I bought a new maunfactured one from Fitchetts). How bad do old springs have to be before they are liable to break?
An example of people restoring parts came about last week when I resurrected a Qualcast rotovator and put the old dead carb on e-bay. It didn't go for much but it helped someone out somehow.
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Thanks for your info guys.
Keith
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Hi Keith,
I'm pretty sure I have one . . . . we'd better have a look when we next get together !!
Cheers,
Alec
Thanks Alec. I've sent you a PM.
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Can anyone tell me where this came from so I can see if they are still available? This was on a Grinnall which I have stripped for restoration.
Thanks
Keith.
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Does anyone know how much paint I should buy to paint a TR7 drophead? I plan to spray the underside, inside and engine bay myself and then get a pro to do the outside. Although colour batch mis-matching wouldn't be a problem between inside and out, I suppose it's a good idea to get the lot in one go, although in a few tins in case there's a long time between the two.
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Hi Steve,
Not many polishers out there!
I'm in the same position as I'm rebuilding a Grinnall. I have found aluminium comes up well with a fine brass wire brush but you need to lacquer it afterwards to stop it oxidising. Otherwise, take a look at the Frost restoration website, www.frost.co.uk They may have a 'how to' article on there, but they definitely have a book on the subject.
Cheers
Keith
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Hi Mike,
I had one fitted from new and still have the tonneau but not the car. That would give you the positions of the extra studs.
Keith
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Hi Mike, I've got Feb to December 1980 CCC mags which cover most of the Dave Bulman car. I can scan the articles if you like. I don't have part 1 - January unfortunately, if anyone else does, I'd like that to complete my collection.
Cheers
Keith
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Thanks Alec and Wayne,
I'm glad you mentioned transferring the body number, I might have scrapped the existing one with the remnants of the rusty shell.
I have the V5 for the car, currently SORN so no problem keeping the registration.
I was thinking of buying a similar 7 to reduce the amount of work needed w.r.t. the interior and hopefully paintwork. It would also generate some spares for my 2-litre. But your California drop head shell sounds interesting Alec, and as you say it is a truly legit way of re-shelling. Please tell me more. Do you have my PM address?
Multipole connectors
in General TR Technical
Posted
Thanks for the tips gents. This came off a TR7 reversing light switch. I forgot to disconnect it when dropping the engine and gearbox out.