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keith w

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About keith w

Profile Information

  • Location
    Malvern
  • Cars Owned:
    Red 2.0litre TR7 Drop-head and rebuilding(!) silver (now Tahiti Blue, gorgeous!) Grinnall.

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    warrenderk

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  1. Hi, I'm doing the reverse process at the moment. It looks like you are well down the road of removing yours. It's worthgvremoving the glovebox door if only to give you better holding place whgen taking out thebig lump. The fresh air vent pipes need to. be disconnected and removed. The fuse box hgangs off the back of the glovebox. there are a couple of self tappers need removing there. The screws on. top are obvious, there's no need to remove the screws either side of the vent/demister meshes. There is a screw at each of the lower corners, below the side vents which aren't so easy to see, then that's pretty much it I think. Hope that helps.
  2. No I don't think so but I am being gentle with it after a major rebuild. Here is a another photo I found which might help.I'm assuming there should be another ball for the bottom set but this is how they came out. Note the different springs. I'll take a look at the other cap I've found and post anything useful I might find.
  3. Thats probably why I still have the vacuum problem. I took two caps apart but may have got confused while putting the good one back together. There's a bit of exploded diagram in the parts book but nothing as detailed as these small parts. I'll go back to the second cap which is still on the bench and see if I can take some more photos for you. The spring is so small I doubt if I could measure the compression force required but I'll see what I can do.
  4. Hello, I dismantled mine a few weeks ago for the opposite reason. Every time I removed the filler cap, and sometimes that was difficult, there would be a big hiss as the pressure equalised. I've attached a picture of the relevant part. If you zoom in to the right hand of the two vent holes you might be able to make out a tiny silver ball in a press in plastic seating. There is a very fine spring in there, as you expected. Hope this helps.
  5. I've got Wipac Quad Optic halogen conversions on my 2 - litre and Cibie H4s on my Grinnall. Both appear to still be available at about £50 a unit.
  6. Thanks Phil, still useful though, the headlamp system especially.
  7. Special thanks to Phil for the wiring diagrams, much clearer than the manuals. Can I be cheeky and ask if you have similar for the TR7? Re ballast resistors. I think you are right about there not being one fitted and the engine ran happily when I bought the car. I certainly don't remember stripping one out and I think I've now found a home for the correct looking wires so I'll give it a go when the great day comes to fire up the engine. That's a little way off yet. Maybe later this year I hope. Onward and upward.
  8. Thanks everyone. I may have sussed this with your help. There is indeed a ballast wire tucked away in a quiet corner of the loom, near the brake servo oddly. This is connected to a black and white wire which I think might be in the sleeving which appears near the dizzy. I'll d a continuity check tomorrow then see if I can find the other end of the resistor wire. If this is in the range of 1.3 to 1.8 it makes sense that it would be permanently in circuit with this coil.
  9. Greetings all, My Grinnall restoration is coming along steadily at last. I've now fitted the coil which came with the car. It's a Lucas Super (red label that's all it says). There's a sticker on it which says 'Use only with ballast resistor 1.3 - 1.8 ohms. There was no sign of a resistor when I stripped the car down and the loom is non-standard a la Grinnall. I see the proper TR8 ballast is a complex affair and probably wasn't used by Grinnalls when converting. Can anyone confirm this please? If I use the Lucas Super coil, would the ballast should be in circuit all the time or switched in just for cranking as per standard four pot? W Where can I buy one? Any other advice gladly received Cheers Keith
  10. Thanks to all who have replied to date. I'm back on this now, re-shimming the tappets. I notice that with the camshaft and crankshaft in alignment (sort-of) that the crank timing marks are 4 degrees BTC. Before I try to align these exactly, is it that critical? I counted the teeth on the cam sprocket as best I can and I suspect one tooth adjustment could give me 8 degrees movement so there wouldn't be any significant improvement. Is this indeed the case or is it worthwhile taking down the front of the engine to jump the timing chain one link or so?
  11. Now the snow has gone away and the temperature is up to a tropical 8 degrees, I got back in the garage and re-torqued the head and checked the valve clearances. The clearances are all way higher than the Haynes manual figures so I'm in for a spot of shimming. With the clearances being greater than specified, what effect would this have on the performance? I'm guessing the valves would be open for a shorter time than required so less fuel gets in and similarly less burnt gas gets out, sort of proportional maybe? The car is running well enough as it is but it would be good to know.
  12. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matter of course. https://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/ I also found a brake and clutch refurbishing company in Stourport on Severn. This company specialises in classic car brake components and supplies some of the big name suppliers who drop pallet loads of units off and have them refurbed in batches. However they are still happy to do one-offs for enthusiasts who contact them. I took a set of Princess calipers, a set of TR8 calipers and a Sherpa master cylinder for refurbishing. Stainless steel sleeves are used in the calipers, new seals as you'd expect and they come back in a gold finish. www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk/
  13. Ah.Thanks for the above gents. I forgot to say this my four pot I was talking about. The Grinnall hasn't progressed much since last May either but having moved house and largely sorted the new one, I'm hoping to get back onto both cars this spring. Thinking about it, the four pot has probably had five outings in all that time. As I said, I really must get out more. And if the worst happens at least the head should come off fairly easily.
  14. Is there a set distance at which the cylinder head needs re-torquing after a major re-build? I've done 222 miles since a major re-build in 2016.I know I should get out more but some stuff got in the way (including a house) but I plan to put a few more miles on starting soon. Thanks in advance Keith
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