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keith w

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About keith w

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    Red 2.0litre TR7 Drop-head and rebuilding(!) silver (now Tahiti Blue, gorgeous!) Grinnall.

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  1. I used Hylomar Blue. All good now.
  2. Should the fuel unions supplied with Facet Red tops be self sealng? I'm a bit timid about tightening them up but I think they should be ok without any form of sealant. Is that right? Thanks in advance
  3. Thanks for the advice. I remembered Alec Pringle gave me some goo to put in the bores if the engine was to stand for any length of time. Red stuff, can't remember what it was but I put a squirt in and left it a few minutes before turning it over on the starter with plugs out. Turns over freely but i snapped the end of the boroscope off in no.6. It's only small bits of plastic which have come out with a vacuum but I want to check again.with a new scope, then I'll check for pressure.
  4. HI Mike, I hope you've managed to contact Russ Cooper by now. If you haven't, he's easily found on the Facebook page ' Triumph TR7 Owners Page' which is run by Christopher Kenneth Smith. Russ has a very good blog which contains a 'how to' internally drill Pricess Calipers. Something I'm intending doing with a pair I have.
  5. I've been restoring a Grinnall over a period of 10 years or more now. The engine hasn't been turned over for about 8 of those and I've just had a look in to the left bank of cylinders with a cheap boroscope. There are any shiny, oily surfaces in there. What do people think? Should I whip the engine out and do a complete rebuild myself or send it away to a specialist? Or is there a way of doing something else, say leaving it in situ and just taking the heads off? I want to keep the 'original' engine as it's the one it was registered with after the conversion. It came with a Holley carb and Edelbrock manifiold both of which I've fettled recently. I was hoping to turn the engine over by hand but since it had a viscous coupled fan, it's only got an M10 bolt on the front of the crank. Not much to get a socket on and heave. All advice welcome. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hi, I'm doing the reverse process at the moment. It looks like you are well down the road of removing yours. It's worthgvremoving the glovebox door if only to give you better holding place whgen taking out thebig lump. The fresh air vent pipes need to. be disconnected and removed. The fuse box hgangs off the back of the glovebox. there are a couple of self tappers need removing there. The screws on. top are obvious, there's no need to remove the screws either side of the vent/demister meshes. There is a screw at each of the lower corners, below the side vents which aren't so easy to see, then that's pretty much it I think. Hope that helps.
  7. No I don't think so but I am being gentle with it after a major rebuild. Here is a another photo I found which might help.I'm assuming there should be another ball for the bottom set but this is how they came out. Note the different springs. I'll take a look at the other cap I've found and post anything useful I might find.
  8. Thats probably why I still have the vacuum problem. I took two caps apart but may have got confused while putting the good one back together. There's a bit of exploded diagram in the parts book but nothing as detailed as these small parts. I'll go back to the second cap which is still on the bench and see if I can take some more photos for you. The spring is so small I doubt if I could measure the compression force required but I'll see what I can do.
  9. Hello, I dismantled mine a few weeks ago for the opposite reason. Every time I removed the filler cap, and sometimes that was difficult, there would be a big hiss as the pressure equalised. I've attached a picture of the relevant part. If you zoom in to the right hand of the two vent holes you might be able to make out a tiny silver ball in a press in plastic seating. There is a very fine spring in there, as you expected. Hope this helps.
  10. I've got Wipac Quad Optic halogen conversions on my 2 - litre and Cibie H4s on my Grinnall. Both appear to still be available at about £50 a unit.
  11. Thanks Phil, still useful though, the headlamp system especially.
  12. Special thanks to Phil for the wiring diagrams, much clearer than the manuals. Can I be cheeky and ask if you have similar for the TR7? Re ballast resistors. I think you are right about there not being one fitted and the engine ran happily when I bought the car. I certainly don't remember stripping one out and I think I've now found a home for the correct looking wires so I'll give it a go when the great day comes to fire up the engine. That's a little way off yet. Maybe later this year I hope. Onward and upward.
  13. Thanks everyone. I may have sussed this with your help. There is indeed a ballast wire tucked away in a quiet corner of the loom, near the brake servo oddly. This is connected to a black and white wire which I think might be in the sleeving which appears near the dizzy. I'll d a continuity check tomorrow then see if I can find the other end of the resistor wire. If this is in the range of 1.3 to 1.8 it makes sense that it would be permanently in circuit with this coil.
  14. Greetings all, My Grinnall restoration is coming along steadily at last. I've now fitted the coil which came with the car. It's a Lucas Super (red label that's all it says). There's a sticker on it which says 'Use only with ballast resistor 1.3 - 1.8 ohms. There was no sign of a resistor when I stripped the car down and the loom is non-standard a la Grinnall. I see the proper TR8 ballast is a complex affair and probably wasn't used by Grinnalls when converting. Can anyone confirm this please? If I use the Lucas Super coil, would the ballast should be in circuit all the time or switched in just for cranking as per standard four pot? W Where can I buy one? Any other advice gladly received Cheers Keith
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