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keith w

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About keith w

Profile Information

  • Location
    Malvern
  • Cars Owned:
    Red 2.0litre TR7 Drop-head and rebuilding(!) silver (now Tahiti Blue, gorgeous!) Grinnall.

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  • Skype
    warrenderk

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  1. Does this bit of bent wire have a purpose? Is it a cable support perhaps?
  2. I'm coming to the end of a long restoration project. The car is a Grinnall TR7 V8 converted in 1990. I have the number plates which came on it when I bought it as a project in 2007 which I believe are those put on by Grinnalls as they have their logo, name, address and phone number in small print on the bottom of the rear plate. However the reg number characters are 60mm high and 43mm wide, clearly not legal by today's rules, but would they have been legal in 1990 and more to the point, would it fail an MoT today if I put it back on the car. The front plate has been replaced at some point
  3. Not sure where best to post this but I just read an email from Brightwells of Leominster - Further Entries Invited... Classic Cars & Motorcycles From 10am Saturday 23rd until 7pm Thursday 28th October Entries close on Friday 15th October For a free auction appraisal contact: 01568 611122 or fill in our online valuation form HERE Just a few of the vehicles already consigned: 1960 Morgan Sports 1932 BSA 3-Wheeler 1930 Packard 733 Rumble Seat Coupe 1968 BSA Bantam D14 Sports 175 1932 Austin Seven RL Saloon 1930 MG M-Type 1963 Triump
  4. I used Hylomar Blue. All good now.
  5. Should the fuel unions supplied with Facet Red tops be self sealng? I'm a bit timid about tightening them up but I think they should be ok without any form of sealant. Is that right? Thanks in advance
  6. Thanks for the advice. I remembered Alec Pringle gave me some goo to put in the bores if the engine was to stand for any length of time. Red stuff, can't remember what it was but I put a squirt in and left it a few minutes before turning it over on the starter with plugs out. Turns over freely but i snapped the end of the boroscope off in no.6. It's only small bits of plastic which have come out with a vacuum but I want to check again.with a new scope, then I'll check for pressure.
  7. HI Mike, I hope you've managed to contact Russ Cooper by now. If you haven't, he's easily found on the Facebook page ' Triumph TR7 Owners Page' which is run by Christopher Kenneth Smith. Russ has a very good blog which contains a 'how to' internally drill Pricess Calipers. Something I'm intending doing with a pair I have.
  8. I've been restoring a Grinnall over a period of 10 years or more now. The engine hasn't been turned over for about 8 of those and I've just had a look in to the left bank of cylinders with a cheap boroscope. There are any shiny, oily surfaces in there. What do people think? Should I whip the engine out and do a complete rebuild myself or send it away to a specialist? Or is there a way of doing something else, say leaving it in situ and just taking the heads off? I want to keep the 'original' engine as it's the one it was registered with after the conversion. It came with a Holley car
  9. Hi, I'm doing the reverse process at the moment. It looks like you are well down the road of removing yours. It's worthgvremoving the glovebox door if only to give you better holding place whgen taking out thebig lump. The fresh air vent pipes need to. be disconnected and removed. The fuse box hgangs off the back of the glovebox. there are a couple of self tappers need removing there. The screws on. top are obvious, there's no need to remove the screws either side of the vent/demister meshes. There is a screw at each of the lower corners, below the side vents which aren't so easy to see, then
  10. No I don't think so but I am being gentle with it after a major rebuild. Here is a another photo I found which might help.I'm assuming there should be another ball for the bottom set but this is how they came out. Note the different springs. I'll take a look at the other cap I've found and post anything useful I might find.
  11. Thats probably why I still have the vacuum problem. I took two caps apart but may have got confused while putting the good one back together. There's a bit of exploded diagram in the parts book but nothing as detailed as these small parts. I'll go back to the second cap which is still on the bench and see if I can take some more photos for you. The spring is so small I doubt if I could measure the compression force required but I'll see what I can do.
  12. Hello, I dismantled mine a few weeks ago for the opposite reason. Every time I removed the filler cap, and sometimes that was difficult, there would be a big hiss as the pressure equalised. I've attached a picture of the relevant part. If you zoom in to the right hand of the two vent holes you might be able to make out a tiny silver ball in a press in plastic seating. There is a very fine spring in there, as you expected. Hope this helps.
  13. I've got Wipac Quad Optic halogen conversions on my 2 - litre and Cibie H4s on my Grinnall. Both appear to still be available at about £50 a unit.
  14. Thanks Phil, still useful though, the headlamp system especially.
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