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keith w

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Posts posted by keith w

  1. Problems starting up a V8 after a few months sitting.

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted · Edited by keith w

    Thanks for the replies everyone. Every suggestion helps. As I say, I have to address this as time allows. I followed up on the suggestions from Hamish and Deggars but GreaseMonkey have a minimum order of £50, Classic Carbs didn't seem to have anything suitable and Serck just didn't reply to my email. Meanwhile with further trawling of the web I found some suitable nylon washers (from two different suppliers but never mind). I fitted these on Monday and they appear to be holding against the fuel pump pressure. I'm in the process of rearranging the garage as the current Mrs W wanted better access to the freezer (and I wanted some deeper shelving but I didn't tell her that) so once that's done I'll spend some time trying to get this thing going again. I find that having had a break from it, the determination comes back. I refuse to be beaten by this. Thanks to Bushey Trader for sharing his experiences. The Distributor diaphragm is something I haven't been near in the rebuild. I have done a complete rebuild of the carb using a genuine Holley rebuild kit and I had it running quite nicely almost a year ago when circumstances forced me to take an extended break. Thinking about it, I had it running without the breather setup in place so I'll retrace my steps by taking that off again. I'd added a little K&N filter to the rocker cover and piped the other to an oil catch tank and on to the large vacuum port on top of the Edelbrock manifold which was previously blanked off.

    BTW - Real Steel have the most comprehensive catalogue including small parts. I shall be going there if my '£3 for 6' nylon washers  fail me.

  3. Problems starting up a V8 after a few months sitting.

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted · Edited by keith w
    Added more information

    I'm having to address this when time allows, hence the intermittent posts. The next problem I have, preventing me from going forward, is as I've said earlier that the fibre washers on the Holley fuel valve assembly have split meaning fuel pours out on top of the fuel bowls. These are the two which seal the float adjusting nut and the locking nut on top of the fuel bowl. Does anyone know what material these are made of and where I can buy some replacements? I've been in touch with some UK suppliers without success. They only appear to stock full rebuild kits.

    I've tried making my own. Nitrile rubber distorts too much. Bonded cork sort-of works as a single use. I can't get Dowty washers thin enough (0.5mm)

     Holley themselves have identified the part numbers - 

    Part Number 1008-776.

    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/floats_fuel_bowls_and_components/needle_and_seats/parts/1008-776

    but haven't said if they'll post to the UK. (It takes about three days each way for customer service e-mail. There must be a delay in the speed of light across the Atlantic).

  5. Problems starting up a V8 after a few months sitting.

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks for the responses gents.

     

    The fuel is fresh Peter.

    Neil, hi, it doesn't have an electric choke just manual.

    I been beggaring about with it again today with no success. I ended the day with it sounding as if it wanted to run but it wasn't firing, just 'huffing' through the carb a bit.

    When you say fuel up to the threads, is that on a running engine or no? I suspect this is my problem, I've got the floats set much too high.

    I tried making some washers out of nitrile rubber and nitrile bonded cork. They sort-of work but are pretty much a one-shot use. Not much good if you are trying to adjust the 

  6. Problems starting up a V8 after a few months sitting.

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    So I came back to it and it will not start. I'm convinced it's a carb issue. After much fiddling yesterday and with petrol all over the place I gave up and will have another go today, starting with the float chambers. If I can't get it going today I will seriously consider replacing the carb with something else. It's a Holley 390 on an Edelbrock manifold btw.

    I also have problems with fibre washers disintegrating. The ones at the needle adjustment screws on top of the float chambers. I've got a query out with Woolfe racing to see if they can help. I'm concerned the rebuild kit I bought was old stock and therefore pre E10. It's a genuine Holley Trick-Kit.

    It's so frustrating being close to the end of a restoration and not being able to crack this one.

     

     

  9. Problems starting up a V8 after a few months sitting.

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    I went back to fundamentals with this checking the spark into the distributor and then out onto a couple of plugs, then checked fuel going into carb from fuel pump by hanging the pipe into a container. So far so good. Then I decided to set the carb back to the basic recommended settings by winding the mixture screws in completely and then back out 1.5 turns. Because there was fuel coming out of the float chamber sight holes with the engine not running I backed both off a quarter turn too. Boom! She fired up first time. I'll wait until the neighbours are out now before doing a vacuum gauge tune. The single pipe system is LOUD! It might even be anti-social but I'll reserve judgement until I've got it going smoothly.

  11. Twin 45DCOEs on a TR7

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hello Cliff, 

    There's a photo on Dr Smith 's Facebook page (Triumph TR7 Owners Page). I don't think it quite does what you want but it might be a good contact to start from - 3rd October 2021, Bob Jones.

    Good luck

     

    Keith

  12. Problems starting up a V8 after a few months sitting.

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    I stopped working on my Grinnall restoration in October when the weather turned cold and I ran into some health problems and didn't feel much like tiddling around with it. I've only just rolled it out and tried to start it today and it's not playing at all. It was running quite well when I put it away, timing was good, carb was good with fuel just dribbling out of the sight plugs with engine running and I was reducing the idle speed when warm. I knew the idle and the accelerator pump needed further adjustment because I could see a trickle of fuel going into the barrells at idle suggesting the fuel pump was mis-adjusted. First job therefore, I set up the accelerator pump according to Holley's instructions on YouTube. (it's a four barrell on an Edelbrock manifold) put some new fuel in and tried to start her up. The best I've got is a splutter and a bit of a puff back through the carb.

    There's plenty of fuel getting to the carb, and it flows out of the sight plugs with the engine not running. The fuel pump sounds good. I assume there's a spark because of the huffing as if it's trying. I disconnected the king lead and turned it over to get some oil pressure before attempting to start it so I know what totally no spark behaves like.

     

    Any suggestions anybody please?

     

     

  13. Fuel gauge

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    I had to chase my fuel gauge system through last October. I had a new sender ready and waiting but wasn't convinced  the one fitted was duff. I established the gauge was faulty and replaced it with a known good one from Steve Wilcox, then I jury rigged the new sender on the end of the wiring under the car but not fitted inside the tank. That all checked out fine so it just remained to put some fuel in it to see if the existing sender was good. I'm pleased to say I pit two gallons in today and the gauge went up to 1/4. Problem now is to get it running again.

  14. TR7 Column switch - anyone ever managed to get one back together?

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    I took apart a faulty indicator/main dip/flash switch a while back and failed to get it back together. In frustration I bought a new one off t'internet. Revisiting the old bag of bits I realised this had been apart/bodged before and I suspect there are bits missing. Has anyone managed to successfully rebuild one of these and do they have photos or drawings please?

    BTW autoelectricalspares.co.uk are advertising NOS at £55 inc vat. I've bought stuff off them in the past which was wrong and couldn't get a response when trying to return it so there is a risk when dealing with them.

  15. Handbrake lever extender

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    I remember seeing something in TRAction some years ago for a DIY mod to increase the leverage something like that. It might be worth searching the back issues. I'd say they probably could use some help. The handbrake has never been that brilliant on the 7.

  18. Door trim panel

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi Robert, hopefully your panels have now arrived.

    I used builder's damp proof membrane (polythene) to refurb mine. It comes in huge rolls from most builders' merchants but it's relatively inexpensive and is of a substantial thickness. I have some offcuts from a building project if that's any help. 

    As JerryTR5 mentions the rain curtain inside the door, I thought I'd just say that both were original on my 1981 DHC. The rain curtain had come adrift and was lurking in the bottom of the door. I used that as a pattern to cut a new one and glued it in place. If you need pictures, polythene, or both, do give me a nudge. 

  19. Heater plenum

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Interesting you say plastic. I've got a glass fibre one and an original metal one. I hadn't noticed one was slass fibre until I came round to thinking about panel beating it to fit round a V8 with Holley pancake filter. I suspect the fibreglass one is a retro fit. I think I picked it up at an autojumble.

  20. What's this for?

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks for the replies. I understand it's something to do with holding the column in the event of accident even though I can't imagine how. It's only fitted on later cars I'm told. Mine's an 81.  Jerry's photo shows the screw positions (thanks Jerry) The screws tap into the underside of the instrument cluster. I didn't know that. That might help make the dash more rigid and quieter.

  21. Fuel gauge on 1980 TR7

    in TR7/8 Forum

    Posted

    Hi Barry, yes it's advisable to drain the tank before attempting to remove the sender but the fuel pipe comes off the same circular fitting so you'll know if you have fuel above the level of the sender before taking it out. The sender can be removed without dropping the tank as it's mounted on the front of the tank. It's held in by a metal ring with two tabs on it which will enable you to tap it round to release it.

    I have a similar problem with temperature gauge having replaced a sender recently. It reads cooler than the previous one which went faulty. I understand new ones vary in quality but I've not yet found out who makes the good ones. For now I'm running with one I bought from Robsport which gives me a stable reading at around teh quarter mark.

  24. 'Original' number plates

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    I'm coming to the end of a long restoration project. The car is a Grinnall TR7 V8 converted in 1990. I have the number plates which came on it when I bought it as a project in 2007 which I believe are those put on by Grinnalls as they have their logo, name, address and phone number in small print on the bottom of the rear plate. However the reg number characters are 60mm high and 43mm wide, clearly not legal by today's rules, but would they have been legal in 1990 and more to the point, would it fail an MoT today if I put it back on the car.

    The front plate has been replaced at some point and does conform to current standards although I must admit I would like to have a plate that fitted the TR7/8 bumper indent/plinth whatever you call it, which UK plates overhang. How do the WRC boys get away with those miniscule plates some of them wear?

  25. 1963 Dove GTR4 coming up for auction

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Not sure where best to post this but I just read an email from Brightwells of Leominster - 

    Further Entries Invited...
    Classic Cars & Motorcycles

    From 10am Saturday 23rd until 7pm Thursday 28th October

    Entries close on Friday 15th October
    For a free auction appraisal contact: 01568 611122 or
    fill in our online valuation form HERE

    Just a few of the vehicles already consigned: 

    1960 Morgan Sports

    1932 BSA 3-Wheeler

    1930 Packard 733 Rumble Seat Coupe

    1968 BSA Bantam D14 Sports 175

    1932 Austin Seven RL Saloon

    1930 MG M-Type

    1963 Triumph Dove GTR4



    Classic Motoring:  01568 611122 or classiccars@brightwells.com

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