ron88
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Posts posted by ron88
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Thanks - I will try and locate one that is for negative earth (stereo updated a few years back) and then locate the stabilizer itself!
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Is it on the back of the dash or on the footwell? How hard is it to disconnect? Have not seen any diagrams showing location...
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My car was fine last week; This week I went to the garage to "turn it over" after the cold weather snap, and neither my temp nor petrol gauge were working. Is there any short check on either of these to try and bring them back to life? What is the diagnostic process and worst case scenario?
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Thanks - my handbrake is on the tunnel so perhaps that is a solution. If the selftap hole is there I will buy the part. perhaps my garage can do this as I have had to send my seats back to be redone (not right the first time) and a small favor is in order.
I do not have "lift the dots", just snaps fitted to to the tonneau....
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Clever idea - so a snap was fit on the strap to make a loop? I wonder if my strap is long enough to double back.
Still leaves me with a hole in my seat!.
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I am told that a hole in the leather in one of my seats is for a "pin" to attach the strap of my tonneau cover. Since we are on seats at the moment, does anyone know how one can fit this pin? was it standard? Can I fit it? Where can I get one?
I do indeed have a tonneau with a strap, but no idea how to secure it. Pics welcome too.
As my seats have been sent back for a further refurbishment, maybe now is the time to do something.....
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Any chance to see pictures?
Green piping sounds a bit different.
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Have had a quote for a rebuild for £180 that sounds high to me. Does any member know of someone who rebuilds them for less?
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Yes, I'd have a go but I'm more likely to ruin something than save it - especially in polished wood. I'll check around and see what I can come up with.
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Ge, thanks for this - not sure I am going with the rewire route but some personal involvement on my part is of interest. It is indeed a two speed; I'm told I have the original motor, though it must have been rebuilt once before because this has happened before a number of years ago. Would any photos help? (may have to be in the new year given how busy I am now getting with family at the holidays!)
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Not sure what way to go on this - it happened before - no real juice left. But, I can't remember how I solved it. Now - 20 years later - same problem. Any new answers would be welcome!
Ron
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Yes, I guess it would be easier to buy a new one, but the quality isn't the same, nor is the sentiment. I have a new dash and wooden wheel, so would like to get the shift knob sanded, and polished up as well. Maybe a company that does the dashes? Suggestions welcome.
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My radiator is original. It's had a few flushes and seems to run fine, but honestly it must have yards of junk in it. I'm thinking of replacing it - having just done an engine rebuild - but have been told the newer ones on the market aren't as good as originals and won't last as long. So, what to do? Consider a rebuilt one?
Thoughts?
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thanks I will get in touch....
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At some point in the short to intermediate future I will be shipping my car (66 TR4A) to the U.S, after 23 years over here. An employer paid to ship it here, but I'm paying on the way back. Has anyone done this recently, and what/whom do you recommend? I am looking at NY/NJ or Boston as port of entry, and considering sharing a container rather than RORO (roll on/roll off) as I have heard some damage stories.
Best shipping lines? Best way to go?
The car was originally registered new in the US (and I have the original - and still valid - plates and reg) so duty should be low/no.
Just need to find a receiver on the delivery end as well.
Thoughts welcome, even if you have done the other way.
Ron
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thanks I was wondering about Gliptone and will "give it a go"
Much appreciated...
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I've got leather covered seats in my 4A, but no leather smell - zip, nada. I stick my head in the window of an old MG midget and WOW I am taken back in time.
I'd like to get that smell back, somehow. I notice there are lots of products on the market, some quite expensive, that say they do this. Anyone have any good suggestions on what works, and what doesn't?
Much appreciated.
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Thanks everyone - sold to another TR Reg member
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I am at: rneumunz@gmail.com
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No, the car is indeed there. May have been on the street or moved into the paint shop. Call Mark there. If you send me your email I can post a few photos. Haven't figured out how to do that on this site, though.
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I am going to be in the £1500 - £2000 range. The top is in "A" condition - steel top, canvas top, sticks and rear window/glass section. It is not A+ as there is a small pin-hole in the lining, some scratches on the top (no dents) and some scratches in the glass. But it is,essentially, unused. Triumph Racing Green. The car is over now at Enginuity in Acton. I will put on Ebay in the next week or so....
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Hi, Just thought I would mention that I am going to be selling my Surrey top - that's the back bit (steel frame and glass), steel top, canvas top and sticks. I bought this in about 2004 and had Enginuity restore and install it. I only really have used the canvas top - and then, hardly ever. The steel top has been in storage. All are TR Green. There are a few scratches, but minor ones. Some scratches on the rear glass as well. I'll try and post a few pictures.
Have not worked out a price yet. My car is going for a respray at Enginuity in a week or two. They will put a soft top back on, and put this top on a pallet for shipping (£45 or so).
I will probably list this on Ebay in mid April, but thought I would bring it up in case someone was interested. I doubt this will be a steal, but it's a very good solid top with all the right bits.
Ron
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I bought a surrey top for my car about ten years ago and had it all done up at Enginuity - complete with sticks, soft top, hard top etc. I enjoy it, but do miss the original convertible. As my car is going in for a respray this winter, I am thinking of converting back to the soft top.
I haven't seen prices for a complete surrey top kit recently, but last heard was around £2,000 a few years ago. Is this about the right range? Or should I just post on ebay and be done with it? (eg see what happens).
Thoughts welcome. I also understand there is a soft top that has a zip-out rear window that fits the 4A, made in Germany, apparently - anyone know about this?
Kind regards,
Ron
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Ive just got my hood frame back from TR Trader, having been refurbished and powder coated, and very nice it looks too.
Obviously you will need to strip all fittings first, but the outcome is a frame that looks like new.
Highly reccomended.
Just one more tip. If you go online to a parcel firm called Hermes you can print off a bar coded address label and
arrange to have the parcel collected from your home on a day to suit you. All for the cost of £8-53. Can't be bad.
John
Good suggestion..thanks for that!
Ron
TR4A Seat-rebuild
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I am very interested in photos etc, having just spent "too much" in my mind to have my seats re-stuffed with new bottoms and foam.
Does anyone have hints to getting rid of - or making less visible - cuts and scrapes in leather? My biggest problem comes from someone who recovered and replaced the seats years ago, and the month it took me to figure out he had put them in on the wrong side - so that the driver seat was on the passenger side, etc. The result was a series of cuts and scrapes on the drivers/passenger seat catching on the folded down hood frame.
I have heard: black shoe polish, also small bits of leather-like substance that can be "ironed on" over the scrapes.
Any suggestions for making these cuts and scrapes less visible would be welcome.