cubehopper
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Posts posted by cubehopper
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I fitted a pair of brand new Moss hubs last year ,one only lasted 100 miles before the play increased to 28-30 thou.
This was replaced on warranty and so far no more problems, but haven`t done a lot of mileage so dont know about the longevity of these hubs
Fingers crossed the failure of the new hub was a one off.
Incidentally I had a rear hub shaft break a few years ago, not a nice experience, proper sh*t myself
Dave
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Oil for me been using it for 20 years in the same trunnions every year, no special gun needed , just remove nipple stick oil can spout in hole and squirt.
Protect disc and floor as necessary .Never had any problems
Dave
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15 hours ago, John L said:
I'm trying to locate a wheer wheer from the rear, I have replaced the rear hubs with some brand new ones some time ago 17,000 miles, I cannot believe these can be the problem yet, any ideas would be helpful?
Hi John,
don't rule out the rear hubs yet, depending where you bought them from. I fitted new rear hubs from Moss a couple of months ago
and one only lasted 1 month and 150 miles before developing excessive play and had to be replaced.
One of the previously fitted rebuilt rear hubs only lasted 5-6000 miles before becoming very noisy and notchy when turned.
Unfortunately the quality of some parts these days leaves a lot to be desired.
Dave
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I too have had a rear stub axle shear, fortunately only doing approx 10mph but still enough to mess my pants.
Bought a couple of reconditioned hubs from someone on Ebay, but one only lasted about 5000 miles before it became very noisy and as rough as a badgers arse.
Decided to take the plunge and invest £500 in a pair of Moss brand new hubs, hoping that my days of **** hubs were now a thing of the past, but guess what, one only lasted 150 miles and one month before it developed 20thou play.
It was replaced by Moss with no fuss, but after every run I still have to check the hubs for play before I can sleep peacefully, not really the peace of mind I was hoping for.
Hopefully this badly rebuilt hub was a one off.
Dave
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To quote a very topical phrase "me too"
Dave
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I had another go only yesterday trying to stretch one of my spare boots to fit, using boiling water and a heat gun, but to no avail.
Why do these not fit, it is hardly advanced engineering, its a piece of rubber.
I may contact Indiana Jones for help, if he can find the Holy Grail surely he can find a boot that fits.
Dave
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Hi Dave
Are you certain that the noise is from the back, the description sounds like pad rattle from the front.
Dave
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Dave, mine was making the same noise for a couple of weeks a few years ago, then one day the axle shaft sheared at the bottom of the thread,fortunately I was only going about 10 mph, still makes my bottom twitch when I think what would have happened if I had been travelling at speed.
Incidentally I replaced both hubs with rebuilt ones, which I have now had to replace because one of them became really noisy and the bearing was tight and notchy, and they had only done about 5-6 thousand miles.
Decided to replace both with Moss new manufactured ones for peace of mind.
Fingers crossed these will last longer than the rebuilt ones did.
Forgot to mention that this was on a tr6.
Dave
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Sadly that seems to be the way of the world in the 21st century, and not just limited to car parts.
highest retail price achieved minus cheapest manufacturing cost expenditure equals maximum profit.
luvvly jubbly, as Del boy would say.
Dave
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You`ve probably read about my ongoing rear end whine, I`m even suspecting my recently installed recon diff now because everything else feels ok. My UJs feel fine and are well greased but you say yours was and it was still worn. I think I may pull the driveshafts out and have a closer look at mine, you never know.
cheers Dave
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Hi Tim
How loud was the whining and did changing the UJs eliminate the noise.
cheers Dave
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Thanks for your suggestions, changing the wheels front to back and vice/versa will be my first job ,hopefully later in the day.
Mike - This might be the way to go before I start tearing things apart, it should be possibly a way of isolating the noise to the offending item.
cheers Dave
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Thanks for your suggestions guys they have given me a few things to check over the next few days.
Rob - happy to hear that your diff has been ok, thats reassured me that mine should be ok.
One other thing I need to check is the rear mounts.I changed them when doing the first rebuild attempt of the diff and wonder if this has had any bearing on the problem. They are the standard rubber ones, which I have always used before without any noise problems, and when tightened ,the inner sleeve, which protrudes a couple of mil above the rubber, clamps between the chassis and the lower large washer .This has always bothered me, as the large washer hits the step on the pin before the sleeve is really tightly clamped, I would have thought that when the nut is tightened, the large washer should compress the rubber mount tight against the chassis to absorb any movement , but there is a gap of 1-2 mm. between the chassis and the rubber. Although I`ve never had any noise problems with this arrangement before so I`m probably clutching at straws but I`ll look at anything.
cheers Dave
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Hi John, I have only had two diffs, my original one I rebuilt and the Moss exchange one. The mountings are standard rubber and the pins are original.
rgds Dave
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Gareth/Sapphire72
After one of the changes I made to the diff settings I ran the car through the gears on support blocks and didn't hear any noise from the diff/rear it was only when the weight of the car was on the ground on a test run that the noise started again. I`m not that sure whether running the car on supports is a substantive way to find a drive problem as the load on the wheels and moving parts are not really being replicated in the same way as when the car is on the ground moving under its own steam.
I did think about a potential tyre problem so that might be a good idea to move them about. The tyres are about 7 years old and the contact area spends winter months not moving position so it might be a flat spot or internal problem.
cheers a more positive and less sulky Dave
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After sharing my ongoing problems with a whining noise from the rear end I thought I`d post an update. After rebuilding the diff with new bearings, but the original c/w and pinion, and getting a good contact pattern, the noise from the rear end still persisted, even after altering the backlash and the contact pattern numerous times, the noise was still there, exactly the same , a droning starting about 40mph and continuing with increased speed.The noise was there when accelerating/decelerating,coasting in neutral, and when clutch pressed. After removing/reinstalling the diff at least 4times I had had enough and decided to cut my losses and exchange it for a recon diff from Moss with a new c/wheel and pinion. Great, I thought, problems solved, a rebuilt diff with all new parts from a well known respected company who must have sold hundreds of rebuilt diffs. Not quite, after installing the Moss diff the problems are still there, nothings changed at all, same noise under the same conditions. I cannot believe that I have exchanged a faulty diff for another faulty diff and a load of cash so that means the problem must be somewhere else, but where ,the hubs were exchanged a few years ago but haven't done more than 6000 miles and the bearings rotate smoothly , all the u/joints are well greased with no play, the propshaft and gearbox feel fine. I`ve been in touch with Moss who tell me its rare for a rebuilt diff to be noisy and suggest putting the car on a 2 post lift and running through the gears whilst listening to the diff, and if it proves to be faulty they will replace it . So this is where I am at the moment £ 600 down and nothing achieved. I am struggling to retain my enthusiasm for my car after 20 years of ownership and don't really know what to do next, apart from torching the b***dy thing.
I would welcome any suggestions/advice /opinions, as I am sure many members must have been in the same boat.
cheers, a desperate Dave
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Hi Ed,
I have a 73 tr6 and mine is the same , leather strap in the same position secured to the floor, which I always presumed was for the jack.
rgds Dave
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Hi Marcus,
Yeah I thought I`d cracked it but not to be , although on the positive side the clunking on take offs been sorted, and the bearings and seals have all been renewed, the whine I`ll live with for the time being.Diffs are certainly a patience tester, I didn't realise I had so much, I prefer problems that are black or white, a part fails you replace /repair it and job done, still its been a learning curve and I have learned a lot about diffs along the way.
Best of luck with yours and thanks for all your advice and suggestions.
regards Dave
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Hi Ian,
Only had the diff re-fitted a week ago but it still has a whine above 40mph, same noise whether accelerating, decelerating, or coasting in neutral, and increases in noise level when speed is increased ,good news is the clunking on take off has been sorted.
Tried your suggestion of Fahers additive but didn't seem to make any difference.
Drained oil off and refilled with Dynalite 85/140 for noisy gears from Moss, but that didn't seem to make much difference either.
Its even got me wondering if its one of the rear hub bearings,even though they feel ok with no play at all and the hubs were renewed about 5000 miles ago.
Might live with it for a while and see if it improves or gets worse with use.
Dave
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Hi Marcus
Reinstalled pinion with same size shim that was found when I first stripped the diff, I think it was 40thou standard size, the preload was then set and the pinion left at that .
All adjustments since have been made on the c/wheel shims.
I understand what you mean about the backlash, 4-6 thou is the ideal figure, but on a worn diff may be noisy, whilst an increased backlash may make it quieter, who knows.
Now I`ve got the contact pattern about right I`ll squirt a bit of oil in it and give it a run with my drill.
cheers Dave
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Ian,
Only changes I have made since it howled is to increase the pinion pre load and to move a 2thou shim from c/wheel side to other side to increase the backlash and reshim the spider gears
With c/wheel carrier bolted in place it now takes a strong 20 inch /lb to spin the pinion.Feels nice and smooth but it did before.
I just hope now that, with the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff,and that was one of the reasons I did it ,but I think that was down to the worn spider gear shims.
Maybe its now time to box it back up fill it with oil and try running it with my electric drill, but the diff only howled above 30mph, don't know if my drill goes that fast.!
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Ian/Marcus
Rebuilt spider gears today, tapped thrust shims in as they were that tight, and now needs socket and bar on each output shaft to turn the gears which are very notchy.
Moved 2th shim from c/wheel side to other side and backlash has now increased from 3.5 -7 th to 5.5 - 9 th.
took photo of increased backlash contact pattern with load on drive side, not sure what its telling me, whether its improved or not, needs a more experienced eye to interpret.
1st pic shows spider gears and thicker shims
2nd pic shows contact pattern on drive with increased backlash
cheers Dave
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Rightio Marcus,
I`ll put the spider gears back together with the 48thou brass sun gear shims and the 66 thou thrusts and see how that feels.
Whilst the carriers out I`ll move a 2thou shim from the cwheel side to the other side to increase the backlash, It is quite tight at the moment at between 3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff.
cheers Dave
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When I first stripped the diff there was a lot of backlash in the spider gears causing clunking on take off.The thrusts were stamped 62 one side 64 the other side but only measured approx. 54thou, and the sun gear shims that should be 48thou measured 44thou.I couldn't at the time get any metal sun gear shims, Rimmers and Moss only had fibre ones so had to put the original ones back in, and put 66 thou thrust shims in.This resulted in the spider gears being quite tight but really notchy to turn.
I`ve now managed to get some brass shims for the sun gears from Chris Wittor and have ordered some 64thou thrusts to see how that feels.When the spider gears are back together should they feel notchy to turn,feels as though they were not meshing properly.
Dave
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