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About cubehopper

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  • Location
    East Yorkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    previously owned
    TR6 SKJ 281G
    TR5 OOF 1G-I know, should have kept it
    Lotus Europa S2-money pit

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  1. Hi John, don't rule out the rear hubs yet, depending where you bought them from. I fitted new rear hubs from Moss a couple of months ago and one only lasted 1 month and 150 miles before developing excessive play and had to be replaced. One of the previously fitted rebuilt rear hubs only lasted 5-6000 miles before becoming very noisy and notchy when turned. Unfortunately the quality of some parts these days leaves a lot to be desired. Dave
  2. I too have had a rear stub axle shear, fortunately only doing approx 10mph but still enough to mess my pants. Bought a couple of reconditioned hubs from someone on Ebay, but one only lasted about 5000 miles before it became very noisy and as rough as a badgers arse. Decided to take the plunge and invest £500 in a pair of Moss brand new hubs, hoping that my days of **** hubs were now a thing of the past, but guess what, one only lasted 150 miles and one month before it developed 20thou play. It was replaced by Moss with no fuss, but after every run I still have to check the hubs for play before I can sleep peacefully, not really the peace of mind I was hoping for. Hopefully this badly rebuilt hub was a one off. Dave
  3. I had another go only yesterday trying to stretch one of my spare boots to fit, using boiling water and a heat gun, but to no avail. Why do these not fit, it is hardly advanced engineering, its a piece of rubber. I may contact Indiana Jones for help, if he can find the Holy Grail surely he can find a boot that fits. Dave
  4. Hi Dave Are you certain that the noise is from the back, the description sounds like pad rattle from the front. Dave
  5. Dave, mine was making the same noise for a couple of weeks a few years ago, then one day the axle shaft sheared at the bottom of the thread,fortunately I was only going about 10 mph, still makes my bottom twitch when I think what would have happened if I had been travelling at speed. Incidentally I replaced both hubs with rebuilt ones, which I have now had to replace because one of them became really noisy and the bearing was tight and notchy, and they had only done about 5-6 thousand miles. Decided to replace both with Moss new manufactured ones for peace of mind. Fingers crossed these will last longer than the rebuilt ones did. Forgot to mention that this was on a tr6. Dave
  6. Sadly that seems to be the way of the world in the 21st century, and not just limited to car parts. highest retail price achieved minus cheapest manufacturing cost expenditure equals maximum profit. luvvly jubbly, as Del boy would say. Dave
  7. You`ve probably read about my ongoing rear end whine, I`m even suspecting my recently installed recon diff now because everything else feels ok. My UJs feel fine and are well greased but you say yours was and it was still worn. I think I may pull the driveshafts out and have a closer look at mine, you never know. cheers Dave
  8. Hi Tim How loud was the whining and did changing the UJs eliminate the noise. cheers Dave .
  9. Thanks for your suggestions, changing the wheels front to back and vice/versa will be my first job ,hopefully later in the day. Mike - This might be the way to go before I start tearing things apart, it should be possibly a way of isolating the noise to the offending item. cheers Dave
  10. Thanks for your suggestions guys they have given me a few things to check over the next few days. Rob - happy to hear that your diff has been ok, thats reassured me that mine should be ok. One other thing I need to check is the rear mounts.I changed them when doing the first rebuild attempt of the diff and wonder if this has had any bearing on the problem. They are the standard rubber ones, which I have always used before without any noise problems, and when tightened ,the inner sleeve, which protrudes a couple of mil above the rubber, clamps between the chassis and the lower large washer .This has always bothered me, as the large washer hits the step on the pin before the sleeve is really tightly clamped, I would have thought that when the nut is tightened, the large washer should compress the rubber mount tight against the chassis to absorb any movement , but there is a gap of 1-2 mm. between the chassis and the rubber. Although I`ve never had any noise problems with this arrangement before so I`m probably clutching at straws but I`ll look at anything. cheers Dave ,
  11. Hi John, I have only had two diffs, my original one I rebuilt and the Moss exchange one. The mountings are standard rubber and the pins are original. rgds Dave
  12. Gareth/Sapphire72 After one of the changes I made to the diff settings I ran the car through the gears on support blocks and didn't hear any noise from the diff/rear it was only when the weight of the car was on the ground on a test run that the noise started again. I`m not that sure whether running the car on supports is a substantive way to find a drive problem as the load on the wheels and moving parts are not really being replicated in the same way as when the car is on the ground moving under its own steam. I did think about a potential tyre problem so that might be a good idea to move them about. The tyres are about 7 years old and the contact area spends winter months not moving position so it might be a flat spot or internal problem. cheers a more positive and less sulky Dave
  13. After sharing my ongoing problems with a whining noise from the rear end I thought I`d post an update. After rebuilding the diff with new bearings, but the original c/w and pinion, and getting a good contact pattern, the noise from the rear end still persisted, even after altering the backlash and the contact pattern numerous times, the noise was still there, exactly the same , a droning starting about 40mph and continuing with increased speed.The noise was there when accelerating/decelerating,coasting in neutral, and when clutch pressed. After removing/reinstalling the diff at least 4times I had had enough and decided to cut my losses and exchange it for a recon diff from Moss with a new c/wheel and pinion. Great, I thought, problems solved, a rebuilt diff with all new parts from a well known respected company who must have sold hundreds of rebuilt diffs. Not quite, after installing the Moss diff the problems are still there, nothings changed at all, same noise under the same conditions. I cannot believe that I have exchanged a faulty diff for another faulty diff and a load of cash so that means the problem must be somewhere else, but where ,the hubs were exchanged a few years ago but haven't done more than 6000 miles and the bearings rotate smoothly , all the u/joints are well greased with no play, the propshaft and gearbox feel fine. I`ve been in touch with Moss who tell me its rare for a rebuilt diff to be noisy and suggest putting the car on a 2 post lift and running through the gears whilst listening to the diff, and if it proves to be faulty they will replace it . So this is where I am at the moment £ 600 down and nothing achieved. I am struggling to retain my enthusiasm for my car after 20 years of ownership and don't really know what to do next, apart from torching the b***dy thing. I would welcome any suggestions/advice /opinions, as I am sure many members must have been in the same boat. cheers, a desperate Dave
  14. Hi Ed, I have a 73 tr6 and mine is the same , leather strap in the same position secured to the floor, which I always presumed was for the jack. rgds Dave
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