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cubehopper

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About cubehopper

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  • Location
    East Yorkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    previously owned
    TR6 SKJ 281G
    TR5 OOF 1G-I know, should have kept it
    Lotus Europa S2-money pit

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  1. Hi Marcus, Yeah I thought I`d cracked it but not to be , although on the positive side the clunking on take offs been sorted, and the bearings and seals have all been renewed, the whine I`ll live with for the time being.Diffs are certainly a patience tester, I didn't realise I had so much, I prefer problems that are black or white, a part fails you replace /repair it and job done, still its been a learning curve and I have learned a lot about diffs along the way. Best of luck with yours and thanks for all your advice and suggestions. regards Dave
  2. Hi Ian, Only had the diff re-fitted a week ago but it still has a whine above 40mph, same noise whether accelerating, decelerating, or coasting in neutral, and increases in noise level when speed is increased ,good news is the clunking on take off has been sorted. Tried your suggestion of Fahers additive but didn't seem to make any difference. Drained oil off and refilled with Dynalite 85/140 for noisy gears from Moss, but that didn't seem to make much difference either. Its even got me wondering if its one of the rear hub bearings,even though they feel ok with no play at all and the hubs were renewed about 5000 miles ago. Might live with it for a while and see if it improves or gets worse with use. Dave
  3. Hi Marcus Reinstalled pinion with same size shim that was found when I first stripped the diff, I think it was 40thou standard size, the preload was then set and the pinion left at that . All adjustments since have been made on the c/wheel shims. I understand what you mean about the backlash, 4-6 thou is the ideal figure, but on a worn diff may be noisy, whilst an increased backlash may make it quieter, who knows. Now I`ve got the contact pattern about right I`ll squirt a bit of oil in it and give it a run with my drill. cheers Dave
  4. Ian, Only changes I have made since it howled is to increase the pinion pre load and to move a 2thou shim from c/wheel side to other side to increase the backlash and reshim the spider gears With c/wheel carrier bolted in place it now takes a strong 20 inch /lb to spin the pinion.Feels nice and smooth but it did before. I just hope now that, with the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff,and that was one of the reasons I did it ,but I think that was down to the worn spider gear shims. Maybe its now time to box it back up fill it with oil and try running it with my electric drill, but the diff only howled above 30mph, don't know if my drill goes that fast.!
  5. Ian/Marcus Rebuilt spider gears today, tapped thrust shims in as they were that tight, and now needs socket and bar on each output shaft to turn the gears which are very notchy. Moved 2th shim from c/wheel side to other side and backlash has now increased from 3.5 -7 th to 5.5 - 9 th. took photo of increased backlash contact pattern with load on drive side, not sure what its telling me, whether its improved or not, needs a more experienced eye to interpret. 1st pic shows spider gears and thicker shims 2nd pic shows contact pattern on drive with increased backlash cheers Dave
  6. Rightio Marcus, I`ll put the spider gears back together with the 48thou brass sun gear shims and the 66 thou thrusts and see how that feels. Whilst the carriers out I`ll move a 2thou shim from the cwheel side to the other side to increase the backlash, It is quite tight at the moment at between 3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff. cheers Dave
  7. When I first stripped the diff there was a lot of backlash in the spider gears causing clunking on take off.The thrusts were stamped 62 one side 64 the other side but only measured approx. 54thou, and the sun gear shims that should be 48thou measured 44thou.I couldn't at the time get any metal sun gear shims, Rimmers and Moss only had fibre ones so had to put the original ones back in, and put 66 thou thrust shims in.This resulted in the spider gears being quite tight but really notchy to turn. I`ve now managed to get some brass shims for the sun gears from Chris Wittor and have ordered some 64thou thrusts to see how that feels.When the spider gears are back together should they feel notchy to turn,feels as though they were not meshing properly. Dave
  8. Look ok to me as well Ian but it seems that theres more too It than that. I`m beginning to know why people don`t like tackling diff rebuilds. Dave
  9. Hi Marcos, Can only upload 3 photos at a time so heres another 3, all of the coast side with a load applied.
  10. Marcus had to open a new post to upload some more pics 1st pic--coast load applied 2nd pic---drive load applied, 3rd pic--- drive load applied Dave
  11. Hi Marcus, I`ve done the contact pattern again,what do you think. 1st pic--drive no load, 2nd pic --coast no load 3rd pic-- drive load. Applied load as you say with pry bar against casing can only send 3 pics at a time if you need any more I`ll have to send them on another post Dave
  12. Marcus If its the face of the teeth being shiny you are referring too, that's how the pinion has marked it, you think then that the contact pattern is wrong and some adjustment may be needed somewhere. Hopefully tomorrow I`ll paste them up again in the way you suggest and see if the contact markings have changed.I`ll put the results on here so you can have a look at them. I think I`ll leave the carrier bearing preload as it is for the time being as well. I`ll get some of that Penrite oil as well, I have been using Comma when I`ve changed the oil for the past 20 years. regards Dave
  13. Hi Ian, Yes I`ll give that a go if its still noisy and that`ll be its final chance to behave before I exchange it. Dave
  14. Ian/Marcus Stripped diff again today,nothing untoward found apart from the pinion preload setting being too low. removed 5thou shim and set pinion preload at a strong 18 inch/lb.Pinion turns smoothly with no tight spots. Measured with dial type torque wrench Checked crownwheel teeth which were all ok in good order and measured backlash with bearing caps tightened to 38 ft/lb At 4 equidistant points around crownwheel backlash was 1-3.5 thou, 2-6 thou 3-6 thou 4-4.5 thou Point 1 a bit tight but others within spec. Carrier bearing preload seems a bit tight as I had to stretch the case a bit to get the carrier, in but not excessive, I may check the shims on the non crownwheel side tomorrow and reduce this preload a tad. Then its on to the contact pattern again.If this again looks ok then but it still howls when fitted, then I give in !. Dave
  15. Hi Tom Crownwheel backlash was approx 4/5 thou, but one thing I`ve just discovered after removing the diff today and measuring the pinion preload of the complete unit, without yet stripping it, is that it is only around 18lb/inch. The preload of the pinion alone should be 15-18lb/inch according to the bible , without including the preload of the carrier and bearings and the drag of the pinion seal and crownwheel,so this preload is probably too low.I originally set it using a lb weight and a measured length of iron bar,this doesn't seem an accurate method, but I`ve now got hold of a lb/inch torque wrench so I may have another go. Dave
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