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Posts posted by 15eren
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Hi
I have cleaned the front brakes with brake cleaner, smeared the back of the pads with copper grease and replaced the pads.
The pads seem to be a little loose in the calipers.
When I brake i hear a click and when i release the brake i hear af new click after 1 or two seconds.
Anybody else had this issue and any ideas?
Tage
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Hi
You are not the only one that have had this problem.
I drilled a 40 mm hole from underneath the footwell with a cup-drill (You see it with the rubber-grommet in place). Then it was easy to open the bonnet with a long screwwdriver. And when the bonnet was open I of course made an emergency-release, which goes through an existing bolt to the footwell.
Cheers Tage
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Hi Richard
From under the car You can remove the filler-plug from the side of the GB. Then use an oilcan with a pump and a piece og hose to fill up the gearbox (and OD).
That works very well for me.
Regards
Tage
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Hi
If the discs are running in the center of the callipers it is not neccassary. Otherwise it may be!
Sometimes the discs are so much out of alignment, that they are hitting the callipers. Then You have to align with shims.
Regards
Tage
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Why not let the original pump in place, of cource without V-belt, remove the thermostat and then install an EWP?
Cheers
Tage
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To me it looks like a 3 weber carb installation?
Cheers Tage
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I agree with Waldi. Some Years ago I bought a new steeringrack from Moss fabricated in Argentina, but it was called back by the supplier because there was a safety-risk with this rack.
I rebuilt my original steeringrack, and it is very straightforward, and has been doing very well since.
Cheers Tage
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Thanks to all, who has replied till now.
I am now considering perhaps to only replace the faulty syncro-rings, and perhaps keep the bearings and seals (if they seem to be OK).
It sounds to be very difficult to be sure, that replacement bearings are OK, and if everything else but the syncro-rings are OK, why not just change the syncro-rings?
Gearbox-out is after all not that big og a job - 2 hours out and perhaps 2-3 hours in. Have done it 2 times because of clutch-problems.
Cheers
Tage
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Hi all
In the near future I will have to rebuild my gearbox because of bad syncro in third gear (changing from 4th to third) - It is an original gearbox with an A-type overdrive. The A-type overdrive is fully rebuilt.
Double coupling and a little blipping the gaspedal in between eliminates the problem.
When I am there I will of course change the bearings and so on as well.
Has anyone experience with the rebuild-kit from Rimmer or other recommandation?
Cheers
Tage
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If the oil-pump is gone as You assume: Do not even think of driving any further!
Cheers
Tage
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I also had a pair from CDD and I am sorry to tell, that I was not impressed.
There was a little play in the bearings in one of the alloy-hubs and there was a significant play in one of the CV-joints.
The end of the story was, that I had to rebuild one of the hubs and one of the shafts myself, after finding new parts.
But after that, I agree, the CV-jointed half-shafts are an improvement.
Tage
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Hi all
Thanks for your reply so far.
I am using Penrite GB-40 gearbox-oil for GB and of course OD. Specification is API GL-1. That should be OK.
And Roger: I am aware of the interlock in the top-cover of the Gearbox. Would it be possible that this interlock could fail now and then?
Cheers
Tage
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Hi e
Sometimes when I make a quick change from 4th to 3th I have a little resistence and a noise as if the synchro is not doing its job. But only sometimes. Normally it is OK.
I have checked the clutch and it seems to be functioning perfect.
Could it eventually be because when moving the shaft for the 3th and 4th selector, it also engages just a bit either the shaft for the 1th an 2th selector or perhaps the shaft for the reverse selector?
I have come to the idea, because the fealing in the gear lever is as if it is trying to engage 2 gears at the same time.
I know that there are some bullits to ensure that only one shaft is operating at the same time, but is it a possibility and have others had the same issue?
About 6 months ago I had the same problem and removed the top-cover and inspected what could be seen from the top. I found nothing and after putting all together the problem disappeared.
But now and then I now have the same problem. That made me think that it could have something to do with the interlock.
Regards
Tage
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Hi Rich
Place the steel-sleeve in the lathe and polish inside with steel-wool and the edges at both ends with something that can make them a bit less sharp.
And also polish the shaft.
And do not forget to align the gearbox with the back-plate with the two dowels, that fits tight.
That should do it.
Cheers
Tage
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Hi Rich
I have just made a measurement on an old shaft and sleeve (steel).
The shaft is 42,75 mm and the sleeve is 43,15 mm.
Tage
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Hi Jochem
I have the same stub-axle-kit and I am very satisfied. You can ajust to no play and the inner races of the bearing don´t rotate.
Tage
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Hi all
Thank You very much to all. I will installl the hinges on the door and I have a friend help me support the door.
Cheers Tage
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I am replacing the door hinges on left side door on my TR6.
The door is off and the new hinges are painted bodycolour.
Can anybody tell me how the mounting will be most easy.
Put the new hinges first to the body or first to the door?
Cheers
Tage
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This is for a TR6
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Hi Pete
Yes You have to turn the shocks 180 degrees. But thats an easy job :-).
Cheers Tage
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Hi
Mine are Spax and they have a plasticcover over the rod. And they are mounted "upside down".
Have You measured that the bump-stop hits before the shock is fully compressed?
Cheers Tage
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Trailing arm versus pothole
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Gareth
No it was not broken. The strengthning was made as a precaution as the trailing arms were already off for cleaning, painting, new bushes etc.
Tage