Allan Westbury
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Posts posted by Allan Westbury
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Hi Larry,
I have just fitted the same system to my 7 and after a few teething problems it is now working fine. I agree with your comments re the wiring & heater ducting, it was a bit of a pig but I got there! You are correct in that it transforms the car. I used to really struggle with parking but it is now a doddle. I started with the sensitivity set to maximum but have now found about 70%-80% a good level for regular driving.
One warning to others - my car blew three of the black control boxes which Easysteer said was due to my brand new atp alternator. I eventually I fitted a £20 12v regulator from Amazon which sorted the problem. I am planning to write an article for TR Action - if I get round to it! If anyone wants details of the regulator then pp me.
cheers,
Allan
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Thanks All. Paul, if I could catch up with you over the weekend.
cheers,
Allan
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I am just about to remove the body shell from my 4A chassis for repair & painting & have been advised to have the body Acid dipped first. Living in the Midlands two companies near me are Prostrip in Nottingham & Envirostrip in Tamworth.
Having searched the forum both companies were mentioned around 2013 but I can find nothing since. Has anyone any recent experience of either of these or other similar companies please?
Thanks
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I have had the TK103A in my car now for more than a year and am very happy with it. i also bought a £10 giffgaff sim and still have around £8 left on it, so not expensive to run. You do have to use it at least once every three months to avoid the sim being cancelled but a quick call gets a return message within two rings. This immediately gives a google map of where the car is located.
I have not used any of the more esoteric options such as the vibration sensor, notification of movement out of a 200m radius etc.
There is an option to send a signal to turn off the fuel ( through a suitable cut off valve) which would be tempting if the car was nicked but I wonder what the insurance company would say if doing so caused an accident? An excuse not to pay out as I caused it? who knows!
I would highly recommend this kit even if only used in its most basic form.
cheers,
Allan
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Thanks for a really interesting & useful thread guys. Roger's link to the Rover P6 club taught me a lot more than I knew about ZDDP and what it is there for. I have previously used the Halford's oil on occasion because of the price but changed to Penrite a couple of years ago when recommended by TRE.
Nice to know that ( for once) I am using the right stuff!
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An update with particular thanks to Alan T & Kevin.
I am insured through TR Insurance & checking my policy showed a £75 excess for screen replacement. Obviously we cannot lose no claims bonus as there isn't one so I gave them a ring to see if my premiums would be affected if I had to claim for a new screen. NO I was informed.
As a new Moss screen was around £100 anyway I decided to replace the screen on the insurance. A quick phone call to the Insurance broker routed my call direct to National Windscreens who had the screen in stock & fitted it two days later. I mentioned that water had been forcing its way around the screen in the bottom corners so they brought some 'special' mastic to cure that problem with the new screen. I had not had time to get hold of a new insert so they have offered to fit that when available at no extra charge.
Excellent service from both TR Insurance & National Windscreens
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Hi,
I fitted a servo to my 4A some years ago & am generally happy with the result. Yes the wheels can lock up if I brake hard but that applies to any car without ABS. With respect to your wife she is unlikely to be as heavy footed as some of us. I have fitted 1144 brake pads to the front discs and will generally lock the fronts rather than rears although to be honest it is not very often. I much prefer the more solid performance the servo gives & would recommend it.
I fitted a fast road cam a few years ago & was advised by TR Enterprises to dump the breather valve as it would affect performance. This then gave me the ideal take off point for the servo - or so I thought.
advice from a different source said I was better to drill & tap a hole in the center of the inlet manifold as this would equalise the effect on the vacuum to the carb pistons.
If you are keen not to drill the manifold then I would use the breather valve inlet pipe on the manifold & feed a breather hose from the rocker cover to an oil catch pot on the bulkhead. i don't know what adding a brake servo would do to the vagaries of the breather valve in terms of inlet pressure, but it surely cannot help? Be sure to use decent vacuum hose to the servo.
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Thanks guys,
It would seem sensible to buy a new rubber after 25 years & will definitely go for the Moss one. Good point on the insurance, I will check that. I guess it depends if I am confident enough to do it myself or not.
Nobody had any thoughts on the Triplex screen, has no-one used one?
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Preparing my 4A for the Italy weekend I noticed that the screen was very pitted which I was disappointed with as I had replaced it a few years ago. On checking however I found that it was around 25 years ago so perhaps it has done too badly!
On the way back from the weekend I suffered a chip near the centre of the screen so I guess a replacement is now inevitable.
Looking at the Moss catalogue I can replace it with a plain or tinted screen for around £100, or a Triplex screen for around £215.
Has anyone any experience of these or alternative screens & what is the benefit (if any) of the Triplex?
How easy are these to fit? Is the tool offered any help or am I best to use a professional fitter?
thanks,
Allan
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I have recently fitted a Facet Red top to my 4A on the recommendation of one of the main TR suppliers. My issue was a pressurised sump, presumably caused by piston ring bypass despite a pressure gauge giving good pressure indication on all cylinders. The solution was to fit a breather in place of the mechanical pump & fit electric. you are also recommended to fit a fuel pressure regulator set to about 2 psi to ensure the carbs do not flood. This may not be necessary with a solid state pump but still recommended.
I fitted the pump on the bulkhead beside the fuel tank, but it is a bit noisy as it continuously pumps when the ignition is on whether fuel is needed or not. ie there is no pressure cut off switch. To counter this i fitted with rubber mounts forgetting that this would break the earth, resulting in intermittent running until the problem was sussed. An earth strap sorted the issue.
cheers,
Allan
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Hi Jim,
When I fitted a fast road cam I was advised by a reputable TR specialist that the first thing you do after buying a 4A is remove this valve & put it in the bin. It was fitted for emission control reasons and just screws up the performance. I have the inlet manifold take off point blocked off & feed the outlet on the rocker cover to an oil trap on the bulkhead. many people just fit a length of suitable tube to the rocker outlet & drop it down by the side of the engine to vent under the car (as I did or the first few years). Not quite so environmentally correct but just as effective!
I was tempted to use the inlet manifold take off to provide a vacuum for an after market brake servo but was advised that as this is offset towards the left carb it would b*gger up the fuel balance. I had a hole drilled & tapped in the centre & this works just fine.
cheers.
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If you are not too worried about originality then i have had a 1/2" AF bolt head welded to the top of the filler plug. Problem solved.
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I have also had this problem for a while and talked to Steve Hall of TR Enterprises about it at Malvern. I had fitted a catch tank but as other have said this only masks the problem. I was also pushing oil out of the dip stick and rear crankshaft seal as I have no breather on the crankcase. TRE do a breather kit that replaces the mechanical fuel pump but then of course you need to fit an electric pump. If you already have a breather I am suprised you have a pressurisation problem at the top.
It can only be caused by piston blow-by which can be because your pistons/ rings are worn, you have a broken ring or as in my case you did not run the engine in after a rebuild.
A compression test will show if you have a problem on just one pot in which case you probably have a broken ring.
more than 1 pot down probably shows a worn engine. In my case I had good compression on all 4 which was baffling.
Steve's view is that in the 5000 or so miles that I have done since the rebuild the liners have become glazed and the rings are not properly bedded in.
The solution is to run for 500-1000 miles with a running in oil but not to 'cruise' at more than 3000 revs during the run in. Short bursts above that are not a problem.
Hope this helps
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Hi Conrad.
Didn't receive anything.
Thanks,
Ollie
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My 4A just got through last week although I don't know the reading achieved. However with everyone in this thread showing a 'just OK' reading any ideas on how to improve on this?
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Thanks Graeme,
I have one of those. there is a difference between the Repair Operations Manual and the Workshop Manual. I find the ROP is more detailed.
cheers
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Thanks Steve,
I was hoping to get it done before the French trip mid May so that b-ggers that then!
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As can be see from the attached image of the front cover of my TR4 - TR6 ROP it is just about RIP and I need to replace it.
Trouble is it seems to be unavailable now. The TR6 now has the brown cover dedicated ROP but I cannot find this multiple car version anywhere. I have a 4A and having tried all the others I prefer this manual Anyone any idea where I can get one or got one to sell please?
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I have read the recent hood entries but still need help!
Am I right in assuming a 'Mohair' hood is better than vinyl?
Having fitted my last vinyl hood some years ago & having never really been happy with the fit I intend to go for a supply & fit option.
Any advice on suppliers in the Midlands? I am based in Leicester so TRGB, TR Enterprises, Don hoods etc are all within range. Any other suggestions please on best quality of material and fitting.
thanks
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Hi Norman,
I fitted my vinyl hood 'cold' and it has never really fitted well. Talking to one of the suppliers afterwards he said they would leave the hood in a heated garage for 24hrs before trying to fit it. Only then would it stretch enough to fit properly. The first few attempts to close the hood when cold were a bit of a pig but eventually it eased off a bit.
Hope this helps,
cheers,
Ollie
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Final word. Attached is PIC of original stretched stud and replacement front and rear studs from TRGB. Seem good to me and obviously no shortage of supply.
Cheers
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No not using any lubrication.
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the advice. I have only taken out the rears so far and they look exactly like the land rover studs with a flat head and conical spline. The leacy ones look too short. TRGB claim to have the correct ones in stock so I have ordered 8 off front and rear. I will see what arrives in the post.
You are right Mick I should have searched past posts but I guess the lazy way is just to ask again. I was also surprised that a 12v ratchet gun would stretch studs and wondered if anyone else had experienced the same problem. It certainly makes removing the nuts dead easy though.
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the quick response. Obvious when you explain it, the steel studs will be longer. The minilite nuts have a flat face that fits against a thick washer that itself fits in a well in the alloy.
I think I used standard studs last time but like the idea of measuring and talking to a supplier,thanks Mick. Supplementary question - technically do I take thread length or overall length? I guess the supplier will know but I don't!
Cheers.
Hood repairs
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
If you are still looking then Classic Car Services in Croft, nr Leicester have just made a complete sliding sun roof for for my fhc. They have been going more than 20 years & the result is superb.
cheers,
Allan