Allan Westbury
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Posts posted by Allan Westbury
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Am restoring a US TR6 that has been converted to rhd but is missing some parts. I have the front side/indicator fittings with UK lenses but am missing the plinths Moss part number XKC 1807 & 1808.
Anybody out there got any spare?
cheers,
Allan
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The club's red TR7 loan car( W reg) engine has a death rattle and clearly needs a bit of work We have already changed the timing chain but the troubles obviously go deeper than that. This is bad news for the young driver who is stuck without the car.
Does anyone have a good/reasonable TR7 engine they are happy to loan/donate to the club to get us out of a hole. We can obviously swap the carbs, manifolds etc from the existing engine.
The young driver has volunteered to work on the existing engine with our help with the aim of eventually swapping them back so that the original engine & car match. I guess we would be looking for a 12 month loan at least.
Many thanks,
Allan
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If you log in to the members area of the club website you can now download the new digital version in an app. There are over 400 garages listed across Europe & all are kept up to date by the local clubs.
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Just to close this off i bought new shorter springs and plungers as per the book. To get around 30lb ft on third I was over 40 lb ft on 4th. During a conversation with Cox & Son about something else they said if I took it down to them they would service it while I waited.
They replaced the short spring & plunger with the longer spring & ball on third/fourth, polished the shafts, replaced the O rings & copper greased the gear lever socket. There were a few broken pins involved and a bit of drilling so in the end I was pleased I had taken it down. The spring tension was measured by hand!
The car is now back together & while fourth is a bit notchy there is no way it jumps out in third so success!
I now have the two part boot fitted although I remember a one piece being fitted in the dim distant past.
thanks all.
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Thanks for this. Have been out today so no further forward. I agree the gearstick rubber may be a contributing factor as I have the dual rubber arrangement (I think from the 6?) rather than the original 4A one piece. However with only a 15lb pull off anything would probably do it.
Having had 3rd synchro problems before the rebuild this feels different (or is that wishful thinking?) in that a slight nudge back up on the gearstick keeps it in 3rd without having to apply any further pressure.
Will try the new detent plungers & springs & see how I get on. Will also call Pete Cox next week - good idea thanks.
failing all of that might like to try your spare Boxofbits if you didn't mind.
cheers,
Allan
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Despite a fairly recent gearbox rebuild (In miles not years) the car will occasionally jump out of 3rd gear on over-run. Having stripped off the rear extension there is clearly wear on the top of the indent on the selector shaft. If I put a spring balance on the shaft it requires around 30-35 lb to come out of 4th but only around 15 lb to come out of 3rd which i believe is the problem. I have bought new plungers & springs for both the forward selector shafts but the shafts themselves are unobtainable.
I have not yet fitted them but if i screw the 3rd/4th plunger in to give the correct reading on 3rd whether 4th will be too high to be usable. Does anyone know how high a reading is still workable on 4th.
Does anyone have an alternative solution, know if the existing shaft could be machined to remove the wear or know of a source of new shafts?
t
hanks,
Allan
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I will be sorry to see you go Roger, your technical knowledge has been invaluable to me and many others. Hopefully you will still be available for technical advice.
All the best,
Allan
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Hi Steve,
Have been following with interest! Either a parts list & circuit Diag for a 4A or more than happy to buy a unit off you on the next batch if you are happy to continue.
thanks,
Allan
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Cracking picture Roger, particularly after Rob's Manipulation.
The fly past was certainly a highlight of the weekend and thank you Terry for organising it.
Allan
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Thanks for all of this. I have today fitted LED bulbs in the headlights & took it to my friendly MOT tester to check the alignment was ok, so asked him the question. As Mike says additional lights are not mentioned in the MOT and as far as he is aware there is no regulation regarding their height from the road. As long as I wire them to only be on with the headlights he does not see an issue.
Interestingly I have just measured the centre of the existing headlights at around 27" from the ground so perhaps Harvey's regulation applies just to the main headlights?
Thanks all,
Allan
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I am doing the C2C in a couple of weeks and thought of adding a couple of driving/spotlights to come on with main beam. The easiest place to fit these on my TR7 is quite low to the ground and I wondered if :
a) there was a legal minimum height off the road for driving (not Fog) lights
b) whether lights mounted low down would actually be of any benefit?
thanks,
Allan
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I can confirm they are different. We took TS2 on a rolling road last week & when we tried to change the points in the DM2 distributor they were different to the 25D4 and we were not able to get any on the day.
To my mind pertronix is a good upgrade although it will not cure any other faults in the distributor.
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Shame!
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My TR7 did fail on a couple of issues including the LEDs in the headlights but regarding the headlights the wording used was:
"Existing halogen headlamps should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge(HID) or light emitting diode(LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp".
I have now gone back to halogen lamps for the re-test today which passed other than emissions where I am still having a problem.
I have spoken to TR Insurance this morning who have confirmed from the underwriter as below:
“We are happy to confirm that we have no issues with LED replacement bulbs and this will not affect the insurance in any way, provided that the bulbs fitted are of the equivalent or higher rating (watts to lumens) than the standard fitment bulbs.”
Pete has added "This does not indicate that they are legal but does mean that your insurance will not be invalidated by fitting them.
Please note this excludes the fitment of angel eye style headlamps.”
Make of that as you will,
Cheers,
Allan
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Hi Ian,
I have recently fitted new winders, side channels & the correct TR4A glass from Moss. The only 'old' bit was the bottom channel as these are apparently unavailable. I had a slight problem but nothing like as bad as yours. TRGB recommended that rather than wedge the glass into the bottom channel use sikaflex as that way you can adjust the angle slightly before it sets. That is what I did and while not perfect it works fine.
There is a lot on this forum on the difference between the TR6 glass & the 4A glass which has only become available in the last few months.
cheers,
Allan
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To answer you Graham,
Lesley Swain is our 'Top Dog' on this one and very competent at knocking a few heads together I can assure you!
To answer Tony C,
Spoken in jest or not, the days of 3000 hairy chested (sorry Ladies) TR owners turning up at an event like Malvern are well gone. Regretfully age takes it's toll!
If we want a big event like those of old then collaboration is the name of the game - does that make us lambs?
Cheers,
Allan
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Condition not really important as I am going to stick a magnetic mount on the front of it.
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Thanks All,
Just shampoo for now then probably a good quality wax polish. It is a pain twice a year but the satisfaction at the end of it makes it all worthwhile.
I would probably use the ceramic on the eurobox ( indeed I paid BMW a fortune for this on the last car) but as the classic is now worth more than the BMW it will be waxed with care!
Allan
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thanks guys,
I was told 90 days before I did anything. Have bought some Bilt Hamber shampoo and was wondering about their Carnuba speed wax. seems to have good reviews.
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Have just finished nut & bolt rebuild of my 4A. Not concours but nice club car that will be driven 3-5000 miles in a normal year.
Had a complete respray in 2 pack about 10 weeks ago.
Question now is what to polish it with? Have considered having a full professional ceramic coating job at around £500 but would prefer to polish. both meguiars & Autoglym do both ceramic & non-ceramic polishes.
Any recommendations?
thanks,
Allan
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Hi Roger,
Having studied it with the blades & wire drive disconnected the problem was caused by the motor running on and then restarting as it gets to the end of the break in the brass contact plate. I have re-adjusted with the drive connected & it parks ok but sometimes runs on. Cannot try with the blades yet as no windscreen fitted. Hopefully when the blades are in contact with the screen the resistance will stop the run on.
We will see!
thanks for your help for now.
Allan
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Yep,
Had to take this off to get the drive arm off. The self park works ok & stops - just in the wrong place and turning the cap makes no difference unless i turn it so far it doesn't stop at all!
Was thinking I need to remove the drive wheel, turn it to furthest point & re-insert. what do you think?
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A bit of tautology me thinks.
thanks Keith, I will look at that later.
When I talked about a kick that might be misleading. Basically it just carries on too far so starts to come back up the screen. I attach a photo which shows that at park the peg on the drive wheel is nowhere near its furthest point of travel but turning the cap does not seem to affect this.
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Interesting. I thought they had to park in fast mode? I have the correct three colour coded cables coming out of the motor and think I have wired as per Alan T's article both on the switch & motor. Everything works as it should other than the kick back.
I cant see a number on the motor Roger just the three wires coming out. Where would I find the number & does it matter??
thanks,
Allan
Wanted. USA TR6 front side/Indicator surrounds/plinths
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Posted
thanks Roger, good idea.