mike3md
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Posts posted by mike3md
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A TR4A friend has suffered a crack/split in his cast manifold.
Is it possible to weld or should he look for a replacement?
If anybody has a spare available please PM me.
Thanks
Mike
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Chris,
I think 0.023" is 0.6mm (not 0.006mm). Roger has is right.
(It is sometimes easier to use a single mm feeler rather than a combination of imperial.)
Mike
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Stressed,
Tricky to find, they do turn up. I assume you are reverting to the painted metal dash - excellent!
I did the same, and it took a while to find a lid. It was suggested that it would not be too difficult to get one fabricated (copying a sample).
Hopefully you have a set of the hinges.
Mike
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Yes, TR4 for all the reasons above, plus no issues with ground clearance - try following irs cars off a ramp or over some sleeping policeman!
Mike
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Hi Qim,
I notice that you refer to the switches on the top of the 'box as valves - they are NOT valves, but simple plunger type switches, which operate on the selector rods to allow the o/d to work - as per Roger's description.
Mike
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Well, look what I found (start at ROGER'S post #98)
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/54483-the-4a-engine-rebuild/page-5
how we forget so soon.....
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Looks like Moss have it wrong as well, too:
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/cap-oil-filler-zinc-plated-gzc1400.html?assoc=116010
Same part is listed for later cars.
?
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Interesting, at the weekend in conversation with a well known TR specialist they were suggesting that the fronts should have higher pressures than the rear, on the basis that the normal weight distribution is front biased (unless you are fully loaded for a 2 week camping holiday!)
I think most would normally put less air in the fronts.
Mike
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The oil filler cap is not vented if a PCV is fitted.
Mike
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I would have thought a pair of SUs properly set up would be as good as, if not better, than 40s?
Not perhaps as nice when you lift the bonnet, maybe.......
(Fetching my coat now........)
Mike
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Various types of cavity fixing anchor, as seen at Screwfix/B&Q etc, are worth a look.
Mike
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And don't forget a straight line is a circle of infinite radius.
Mike
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Great effort, well done!
Mike
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Helmets are compulsory this year at Spa.
Mike
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+1 Mick's comments
It is all to easy to mismatch the inlet manifold with the head "pins"
Mike
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John,
Why don't you contact your local group (details in TR Action - Wensum), they should be able to advise?
Mike
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Qim,
Just read this thread for the first time.
There are many 4 cylinder TR engines giving good service which have an oil leak from the rear crank seal - whether modified using the Land Rover type or the original seal. The owners of these cars may wish they didn't leak, but just accept that this is part of the "joys" of ownership of TRs.
From your description, your engine is only recently rebuilt (in mileage terms), and the leak is not very big. I would seriously consider not touching it, get it back in the car and enjoy, especially if you are concerned about costs.
After all, it is not an modern Audi etc!
Mike
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Probably fit in the Audi(o)?
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....and on the 4/4a with the plenum flap closed and using the fan air can be drawn into the heater via the dash vents (assuming they are open!) and out to the screen and tunnel top. (Effectively a recirc mode)
This seems to heat the screen/cabin more quickly.
Mike
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This time with pics!
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Steve,
Mine is similar to Graeme's, but I made a complete new upper casing. No welder, so all done with pop rivets.
The fan base for the 5 & 6 is more complicated because of the side vents. The whole heater has to come out - much, much easier if you have the tunnel off/gearbox out, but still a bit of a struggle. Don't forget that Triumph started with the heater when they assembled these cars.
I have some sketches of the fabrication, pm me.
Mike
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Pete Baldwin in Wimpole (near Cambridge) does a lot of older cars, a number of NLG TRs have been there.
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It is possible to fit a modern 3 speed fan (eg Spal 008-A100-93D), but a new upper heater casing and a mounting plate in the bottom part are required - a fairly simple home fabrication.
On full blast it really improves the demisting - almost up to Dyson Airblade ferocity!
Mike
Ground clearance
in General TR Technical
Posted
Clearance is a problem for most trolley jacks.
A word of warning - if using the front cross member to jack up the car, make sure that the 'head' of the jack cannot slip, especially if the cross member has become oily in this area. Ask me how I know.........
I made up a H shaped steel bracket that fits the cross member and the head of the jack, and to obtain clearance have 4 lengths of scaffold board on the garage floor which I drive onto when putting the car away.
Mike