mike3md
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Posts posted by mike3md
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I have a Moss set up on my 3A, its has been fine for a few years. While I had the apron off I made up a heat shield from al sheet.
Mike
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Interestingly, you can get something very similar in cans from Halfrauds, its called Ford Bermuda Blue, so should be easily available. I don't think anyone can spot the difference, especially if the whole car is being painted.
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Screwfix (www.screwfix.com) do a "No Nonsense PTFE Spray for £2.93 a can
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Menno,
Myself and at least one other I know of have a similar arrangement to fix the rack to the boot handle fitting, except we used a piece of folded aluminium sheet cut and drilled - in some lights it does look a bit like the rest of the rack, which is stainless steel.
After 5 years it is still in one piece, although I would never carry heavy loads so high up (max has been a case of champagne!). You do have to be careful opening the boot - try and avoid using just the stay. It is very useful for carrying the sidescreens. I do have an old small leather suitcase which looks the part, strapped on with leather straps, which does come in useful for the camping accessories.
Mike
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Should have mentioned that I tried that......
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Hello everybody,
Something that's been puzzling me for a while is an occasional "clonk" sound I get from the offside (RHS) hub when changing gears, but only at moderate velocity and higher gears - I can sometimes replicate the noise by alternately lifting and applying throttle, again at moderate speed (say 30mph) and higher gears.
From a previous life it sounds very much like a noise I used to get from worn drive shaft splines on my (classic) Mini. I have checked and tightened the damper fixings (incidentally wouldn't they be easier to keep tight if the bolt head, rather than the nut, was on the damper body side?) and generally looked over the axle/spring fixings, which appear OK. The propshaft also seems OK, and the diff itself is very quiet. New damper links haven't cured the problem, and the dampers feel good, with a consistent resistance throughout their arc of movement.
From looking at a parts diagram, it appears that the cause could be a loose key, but given the tales about how firmly the halfshaft and the hub are mated, I wonder if it could be anything else? If it's this, it could mean a new hub and/or halfshaft
Ideas welcome/tests I can try before I attempt a strip down.
Thanks
Mike
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The boys at Bastuck appear to have some sort of solution to the steering rack/original horn & indicators problem, judging by their website:
http://bastuck.de/web/liste_classic.asp?un...g=11600#hinweis
Anybody tried this??
Mike
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Don,
Interesting. On my 3A the O/D only works in 3rd and 4th, with one lockout (inhibitor) wired up (the front one) - I always assumed that the other one was to bring 2nd into play.
Alan/Alec,
I wouldn't be worried about the gearbox. 60mph in plain 2nd? My engine is balanced but that's pushing it! Do you have a Honda VTEC engine?! Personally I prefer to overtake in 3rd and flick into O/D 3rd as I pass the driver's window, normally with a cheery wave of thanks. Certainly passed a few TRs on the way back from Malvern like that.
Mike
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Murray,
I know of one rack conversion where the owner has wrapped the cables around the column like you, but first fed them through a piece of flexible plastic cable duct which he then wrapped around the column. Works for him and probably reduces stress on the wiring.
Mike
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Frank,
Thanks for the explanation - it makes a lot of sense. I too don't see the need for O/D on 2nd - although possibly useful for mountain pass hairpins, but then dropping from plain 3rd to 2nd as you wind on the lock for those is part of the pleasure!
Mike
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Interesting about the isolator switches - I have a 3A with 2 switches on the top cover, but one (rearmost) is not wired up, I assume because someone before me was concerned about the A type O/D weakness if driven hard in 2nd gear (as mentioned in Roger Williams' book).
The O/D is a 22/1374, and the gearbox has 4 speed synchro and I think is a 4A type as it has thickened bosses, but with very odd numbering "OD12384" and "P9K68" which I assume is from a rebuild at some stage.
Mike
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I have a Revington top cover, and its certainly made a difference, but you have to trade the stiffness off centre with the play (or lack of it). My compromise is OK at town speeds, but a bit hairy
when passing camions on the Autoroute to and from Le Mans last weekend. Saving up for R&P
Mike
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Hello,
I have been puzzled by this for some time on my 3A. The slave cylinder pushrod has always been connected to the bottom hole on the cross shaft lever, and worked fine. However I have finally got around to fitting a return spring which was missing, and checking the clearance (0.079"), and so I moved the connection to the middle hole.
To check all was OK Mrs mike3md gave the clutch a couple of floorings, and it's clear that the alignment of the slave cylinder/pushrod/middle hole move well away from a roughly straight line when the clutch is fully depressed - so much so that the rubber dust cover on the end of the cylinder is quite distorted. I also now realise it made the task of fitting the return spring much harder, as it is at an angle to the slave cylinder axis.
I will revert to the bottom hole as I know it works, plus I am worried that with such misalignment it will accelerate wear in the slave cylinder.
At some stage the car has been fitted with a 4 speed synchro 'box. The cross shaft lever measures about 95mm (3.75") from cross shaft CL to bottom hole CL. The 3 holes are about 10mm apart (sorry about the mixed units!).
Any ideas welcome.
Mike MD
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Thanks Stuart, that's the way I shall go - replacing leaky top hose Kenlow sensor with thermo switch in boss while I have the apron off to sort the steering - and so it goes on!
Mike
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Given the fairly heavy current draw by the electric fans, is a relay recommended? In modern applications I think some do and some don't.
Mike
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Ian,
Thanks, I will have a good look at that as well - although it seemed pretty clear when I scanned the pump, I will drop the bowl to check.
mike
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Julian,
A very comprehensive elimination process! I'll give it a try (next weekend - away at the moment) and report back. I feel it really is electrical, fuel side seems OK, with a good gush when the engine is cranked.
Mike
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Thanks to all the response - I am away from the car at the moment, and will try out some of the suggestions soon.
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I am totally frustrated by a misfire that has appeared all of a sudden on the 3a. We were out for a run, and having covered about 100 miles were bowling along when its started to misfire, very quickly getting worse and leading to total loss of power, engine will not run. As you can imagine its awkward sometimes to find a place to pull in when all you have is momentum!
We progressively changed the condensor (twice!), coil, points, rotor arm, distributor cap and leads but cannot get rid of the fault. I have checked the LT leads, including the short wire in the distributor.
If cold, the car starts and runs fine - for 30 mins at 2000 rpm in the garage last weekend to try and sort it out, however once warmed through and on the road it goes about 3 miles if I am lucky before misfiring and stopping. If left for a few minutes it will restart and run a bit more.
There is fuel in the tank, and it pumps through OK. I have run with the filler open to check there isn't a breather blockage
The collective view is that it is electrical, and probably on the HT side. The coil gets very hot, (but then it is fixed to the block). The TR has an alternator and -ive earth, the engine being rebuilt about 2000 miles ago, including conversion to unleaded. Its on standard twin SUs.
I have spent all afternoon at this and got nowhere - I struggled to get the car home, it will only run for short bursts.
Now that the sun has come out I would like to use it! Any helpful suggestions?
Mike3md
Jumping out of Overdrive
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi David,
Did you manage to sort this problem? I too appear to have the same issue, the overdrive jumps in and out of top, but of course not all the time. Having had the tunnel cover off and done the oil and checked the lever, I put it all back together and yesterday (Drive It Day) did about 200 miles before the problem reappeared.
Trying it in the garage in 4th, I get a healthy click from the solenoid, but if I slightly (maybe 2 or 3 mm) ease the gear lever it drops out, so it sounds like the same problem.
Oh dear , tunnel cover off again![:angry:]()
Mike