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Posts posted by mike3md
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Pretty sure that 301466 is standard camshaft.
Mike
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The useable range of EVs has improved a lot in recent years.
An EV running out of charge is the same as an ICE running out of fuel, and in an EV you have many more warnings going off in the car many miles before it completely stops - in fact an EV will attempt to eke out the remaining charge by automatically disconnecting any ancillaries (such as seat heating, climate control) as the charge level drops below set points. A total failure as described by Ian would suggest the 12v battery was also dead flat. As Rob says the BMS should not let the 12v battery get so low nothing functions, so it suggests a fault as well as a numpty driver.
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As well as using a strip of rubber glazing gasket to great effect under the front lip of the header rail on my TR4 like Roger does, I also fashioned a couple of small plugs for the 2 surrey fixing holes in backlight top section. This has more or less eliminated another source of noise when the surrey top is in the boot, as the rushing (well, it is a TR) air passes over the top of the backlight frame.
Mike
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Moss still list the Smartscreen: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/electrical-system/wipers-washers/smartscreen-wiper-systems.html
However a number of us in North London have found it unreliable on both the single speed and 2 speed model wipers.
My experience in a TR4 was that it tended to have a mind of its own sometimes, behaving erratically. Contacting the manufacturer didn't yield an answer so I pulled it out and wired in a flick switch in place of the rheostat for single wipes.
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Reviving this thread, I am in need of an unbent 4/4A front plate, if anybody can help please pm me.
(David F did suggest a lead (thanks) but it has drawn a blank)
Mike
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Ralph,
The earlier cars had a larger bore master cylinder, changed during the TR4 run from 0.75" to 0.70" . Rear wheel slave cylinders were changed from 0.75" to 0.70" around the same time. This wasn't related to any servo fitment, but to reduce pedal pressure I believe.
Mike
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Greg,
Sorry, my top is on the car at the moment.
Have a look at the parts drawings here: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html
Mike
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Quite a simple thing to make.
Mike
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Push button instead of the Big Healey switch, but another nice comfy rounded top...................
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Now with a much comfier round top: https://www.bighealey.co.uk/gearknob-overdrive-switch-cels123
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Hi Roger,
Sorry, my hardtop is aluminium.
Mike
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One small point that hasn't been mentioned about the original "tuck in" front fixing arrangement is that it is much easier to store the surrey fabric in the boot, useful when boot and rear bench space may be at a premium on long tours.
Incidentally wind noise can be greatly reduced by feeding a length of small section glazing gasket under the lip, removing in seconds when you need to do the tuck.
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Looks good on a 4A, but maybe a bit blingy on a 4 (no side chrome strip)?
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This is a neat way of doing touchup:
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Moss and others do extra long wheel studs, just be careful that your conical nuts don't bottom out before fully tightened against the wheel. Studs can be shortened to suit.
Mike
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Hi Rich,
Yes, I have a set - exactly where you said I would find them!
PM me.
Mike
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Bill,
If you are worried about security when away, as well as a good steering lock (Krooklock), plus battery cut out, I suggest you get (or make) a hood cover. This will keep the interior of the car from prying eyes and may help prevent wet carpets, and if you park under trees, bird guano.
Some thing like this: https://cabrioshield.com/uk/triumph-tr6.html (although for a TR6 it will fit a Michelotti car). Cheaper types are available, like this: https://www.airflow-uk.co.uk/product/convertible-hood-covers/
If you can find or make one that is tied to the door handles/mirrors and the tank filler, it is neat and quick to put on.
Mike
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The silencer looks OK to me (mine has similar battle scars), I suspect Nigel has it - the pipe before the silencer is now hitting/touching the chassis somewhere.
Try giving the pipe a shake (engine off).
Mike
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Nope, remote header tank is in Stuart's pic.
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You can fit the weight and its steady bracketry after the box is relocated in the car, but before the tunnel is fitted. The clamp around the tail of the box may need bending to open out to fit. On the (too many!) occasions I have had the box out, I haven't been able to remove the clamp part from the weight, so just pulled it (with the weight attached) sideways off the tail with a bit of brute force.
Personally I would refit it. As has been said, it might make a difference.
Mike
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On an associated point, for maximum delivery to the cabin (flap open), make sure that the top of the tunnel carpet/felt is not stopping the flap fully opening.
I have cut a slot in the top of the tunnel carpet etc to maximise the opening.
Mike
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If you have a 4.1 diff, and overdrive, then converting the overdrive to 28% from 22% gives you the best of both worlds!
Mike
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Andy,
Door mirrors - I have the same type, and sourced them here: https://www.motoringclassics.co.uk/mirror-ital-style-rh-lh
Mine are flat glass.
Mike
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Miles,
I saw Mike's voltmeter and was envious!
For my later TR4, I made this up using a standard Smiths voltmeter http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Gauges/Amps, volts/SIB220.aspx?1401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Gauges.aspx|Back to shop
I then replaced the front shroud face with one from an old broken Lucas ammeter, respraying to obliterate "Amps", but masking off "Lucas", and then adding "VOLTS" in matching typeface using Letraset. Unless you get really close it looks original.
Mike
480 LBP Red 1963 TR4
in TRs Re-United
Posted
Joel,
I have just found this postin!
I have given your Dad details of the owners from new until the present day, and happy to share anything I can if it is of interest. I have asked if there are any photos from the ownership.
Mike