DustyM
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Posts posted by DustyM
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Thanks guys.
If some does have measurements, or can find the previous thread (I can't seem to) that would be great.
Cheers
Jon
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Folks,
Does anyone have a diagram showing the dimensions for the cut out in the floor pan on a TR4. I'm finishing off a car that has had the floor pans replaced but there is no hole for the handbrake and I don't have the old floor.
Cheers
Jon
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You could try Soda Blasting it's supposed to be much kinder to the panels.
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Thanks guys, I think that given that some of the remaining channel is passed its best, I'll probably remove it and go down the TR6 seal route.
Cheers
Jon
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Folks,
I'm currently restoring an Early ('62) TR4. I'm just wondering what the consensus is regarding the door seals. This car has channels up the A, B Posts and screen frame to take a door seal, but it is missing from the sills since these have been previously replaced.
Leaving originality aside what do people generally do
A. Remove the remaining channels and use TR6 type door seals that push on over the seam.
Or
B. Restore the channels and fit original type seals (are these seals easily available?)
C. Any other options?
If it makes a difference the car will have a surrey top fitted.
Cheers
Jon
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If you haven't driven a Stag, go and find a nice one to test drive, I think you will be pleasantly surprised, up until a few weeks ago I owned a Stag and a TR6 so was able to drive them back to back. Whilst the Stag doesn't have the raw sports car feel of the TR6 it will hustle down a country lane with surprising pace and as mentioned above can be fitted with proper three point inertia reels in the back. And with power steering is much easier to use around town.
Oh and the sound......
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Folks, Has anyone got a picture of a TR4 rear valance showing the cut outs for the rear bumper irons?
Thanks
Jon
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if you think a copy would be of use just send me a pm with your e-mail and I will forward a PDF copy.
Regards, Richard
Thanks for the offer Richard, but I have it done, welded on the bracket this morning and welded up the redundant holes on the left side.
Cheers
Jon
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Hi,
I think the bracket behind the accelerator pedal is a stop for the throttle pedal.
More photos on my website
http://brabazon.org/Triumph_TR4.aspx
Steve
Just had a look at your site, very impressive work with the Dashboard!
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Thanks guys. thats perfect.
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Folks, If anyone has a stripped down TR4 or 5 (or TR6, might be the same)
I'm looking for a picture of under the dash showing the position of the steering column bracket in relation to the hole in the bulkhead that the steering column goes through.
I need to make one up on a car being converted to RHD.
Also there appears to be another bracket in the footwell behind where the throttle pedal would have been on a LHD car, anyone know what would bolt to that?
Cheers
Jon
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I'm having exactly the same problem on my six, injectors 2 and 5 give very little fuel and the endine misfires, I remove the injectors and manually pull open the valve and give them a bit of a tap and then they start to work, put them back in and all is fine. The after about 4-5 miles she starts to misfire again and I'm back to square 1.
Very frustrating as the MU and all injectors are reconditioned.
I haven't tried swapping the injectors to see if the fault follows them, that's tomorrows job unless someone has another idea?
Cheers
Jon
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Excellent, doesn't sound like a bad job then. If its that easy I'll do both sides.
Hardy Spicer UJs are on the way.
Cheers
Jon
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Folks,
What's the consensus on the fastest (easiest?) method to change a Driveshaft UJ (inner one next to the Diff) Do I need to remove the entire drive shaft from the car?
Cheers
Jon
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Jon
Your car looks great. I am interested in the colour as it looks the same as mine which has been a night mare to find.
What type and make is the colour?. Obviously BRG of some type.
John
Yes BRG, but which particular one I couldn't say, I took the front spoiler (originally body colour when I got the car) into my local factor and he mixed it as close as he could. I then tinted it further to get the best match I could.
Sorry this doesn't help you much.
Jon
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Car looks really nice Dusty. Are those plates the Irish version of our age related plates?
Stuart
Sort of. If a car is over thirty years old you have the option of registering it with "vintage plate" which would be ZV xxxx(x) alternatively I could have stuck with the current system and had 73-TN-xxxx.
Unfortunately they won't issue a plate in the style that would have existed in 1973 which would have been some thing like BZI 322
Jon
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Just a few pictures of my TR6 now its almost finished (are they ever!)
As I bought it
The car was bought last October as a project (see link in signature for the full project story)
Pictures taken today.
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Are you saying the car is costing 10K but will cost another 3K to get roadworthy? Sounds expensive.
I would expect any 10K TR6 to be in A1 condition, not a show car perhaps but certainly roadworthy.
What sort of work is required.
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I saw this link on a post - looks a good car but some tin worm when stripped back. http://classiccar.ie/forum/showthread.php?t=69
That link is to my car. Yes it did have a bit of rot and running problems (which has taken more time to sort than the rust!). However I didn't pay £7k or anything like that for it and i knew it needed work. You pay your money and make your choice. I choose to buy a cheap car and spend money on it, I now know exactly what I have.
As Ian said at around the 7-8K level you could end up with a very good car from a private sale, or you could get a car that's had a quick make over. So if you have doubts get it inspected by one of the specialists.
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Not in Kent, but these guys are next door in Surrey and have a TR6 for Hire
http://www.nostalgicmotoring.co.uk/
Cheers
Jon
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The tappets are very slightly loose, Thats intentional, as originally I suspected that the clearance was too tight meaning some valves where not closing fully when up to temp.
I will run it for a while then reset them. Have you used one of those tappet click adjusters instead of feeler gauges before?
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At last. It runs correctly.
I had managed to cure all the running problems except the pick up from idle. After re-examining the throttle butterflys and checking the flow with a carb balancer, I came to the conclusion that the linkage was hopeless, and bought a set of 150 manifolds and linkage on eBay.
A clean up session (outside only, left all the deposits inside)
Fitted to the car and synchronised
What a difference, the car will now idle as low as 500 rpm (though I have it set to 750) and picks up very well. No more black smoke, even on reving from a period of idle.
Exciting You tube video of the engine running!
A big thanks to all those who contributed to this thread
Cheers
Jon
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Hi all
Below is a photo of one of the throttle linkage to throttle body brackets of my 1971 TR6
As you can see there is a steel washer welded to it
Is this standard or has it been modified by a previous owner.
I can't find it on any of my manuals and can't see any reason for it
I have destroyed three throttle shaft bushes trying to get them on to this bracket.
Any one got any ideas !!
Looks like a bodge to me. I would guess that a PO welded it on to bring the hole size down instead of using the correct bush!
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Interesting interior colour scheme in the TR6 at Earls Court in 1969.
Right at the end of the video
TR Triple
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I had the opportunity today to get a group of TR4s together so took a few pictures.
The cars are
1962 TR4
1966 TR4A
1967 TR4A