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    Killaloe, Ireland
  1. DustyM

    TR Triple

    I had the opportunity today to get a group of TR4s together so took a few pictures. The cars are 1962 TR4 1966 TR4A 1967 TR4A
  2. Thanks guys. If some does have measurements, or can find the previous thread (I can't seem to) that would be great. Cheers Jon
  3. Folks, Does anyone have a diagram showing the dimensions for the cut out in the floor pan on a TR4. I'm finishing off a car that has had the floor pans replaced but there is no hole for the handbrake and I don't have the old floor. Cheers Jon
  4. You could try Soda Blasting it's supposed to be much kinder to the panels.
  5. DustyM

    Door seals.

    Thanks guys, I think that given that some of the remaining channel is passed its best, I'll probably remove it and go down the TR6 seal route. Cheers Jon
  6. Folks, I'm currently restoring an Early ('62) TR4. I'm just wondering what the consensus is regarding the door seals. This car has channels up the A, B Posts and screen frame to take a door seal, but it is missing from the sills since these have been previously replaced. Leaving originality aside what do people generally do A. Remove the remaining channels and use TR6 type door seals that push on over the seam. Or B. Restore the channels and fit original type seals (are these seals easily available?) C. Any other options? If it makes a difference the car will have a
  7. If you haven't driven a Stag, go and find a nice one to test drive, I think you will be pleasantly surprised, up until a few weeks ago I owned a Stag and a TR6 so was able to drive them back to back. Whilst the Stag doesn't have the raw sports car feel of the TR6 it will hustle down a country lane with surprising pace and as mentioned above can be fitted with proper three point inertia reels in the back. And with power steering is much easier to use around town. Oh and the sound......
  8. Folks, Has anyone got a picture of a TR4 rear valance showing the cut outs for the rear bumper irons? Thanks Jon
  9. Thanks for the offer Richard, but I have it done, welded on the bracket this morning and welded up the redundant holes on the left side. Cheers Jon
  10. Just had a look at your site, very impressive work with the Dashboard!
  11. Thanks guys. thats perfect.
  12. Folks, If anyone has a stripped down TR4 or 5 (or TR6, might be the same) I'm looking for a picture of under the dash showing the position of the steering column bracket in relation to the hole in the bulkhead that the steering column goes through. I need to make one up on a car being converted to RHD. Also there appears to be another bracket in the footwell behind where the throttle pedal would have been on a LHD car, anyone know what would bolt to that? Cheers Jon
  13. I'm having exactly the same problem on my six, injectors 2 and 5 give very little fuel and the endine misfires, I remove the injectors and manually pull open the valve and give them a bit of a tap and then they start to work, put them back in and all is fine. The after about 4-5 miles she starts to misfire again and I'm back to square 1. Very frustrating as the MU and all injectors are reconditioned. I haven't tried swapping the injectors to see if the fault follows them, that's tomorrows job unless someone has another idea? Cheers Jon
  14. Excellent, doesn't sound like a bad job then. If its that easy I'll do both sides. Hardy Spicer UJs are on the way. Cheers Jon
  15. Folks, What's the consensus on the fastest (easiest?) method to change a Driveshaft UJ (inner one next to the Diff) Do I need to remove the entire drive shaft from the car? Cheers Jon
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