vivdownunder
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Posts posted by vivdownunder
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The bodywork red priming coat was baked on at high temperature, so it's a struggle to strip it with heat.
Soda blasting gets it off. Sand blasting is usually too aggressive and the applied heat distorts panels. Acid dip can contaminate folds and hinder repainting. Flapper sanding discs work, but it's a long and dusty job.
Viv
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Jim, the Phoenix header will be made to clear an original steering column. On Escort conversions I've seen there is no outer tube below the firewall, just a shaft, so the header should have plenty of clearance. For the moment you could just get the flange peaks re-profiled to suit your low port head.
As Ian mentioned, for some reason many headers have a thinner flange, thus need packing to match the inlet manifold flange thickness so the clamps work properly.
Rgds,
Viv
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Stan, you'll likely have the later circular dipswitch which has a different bracket.They changed it as part of the 60K updates because on RHD cars the terminals were prone to arcing out out on the firewall. Sorry but I no longer have a late LHD car to help with a pic.
I seem to recall the LHD bracket could go either way around, or maybe the rubber pad isn't exactly where it needs to be.
Rgds,
Viv
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If the front carby needle wasn't centred properly, the metering hole in the jet may have worn oval. If so it will run rich and the only solution is a new needle and jet. For ideal tuning it's best to replace both items. SM needle was correct for a standard TR3A.
Check the float level as well. Too high can result in over fuelling. A 7/16" drill bit shank sets the level correctly.
Very rarely the needle and seat in the bowl doesn't fully shut off fuel once the bowl is full. Replace if suspect.
For some reason modern spark plugs don't take well to cleaning. Once fouled they seem to continue fouling, Best to fit a new front plug once the carby is tuned right.
Viv
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Oddly the mount posts are metric thread. The large brass knurled nuts went on 4mm instruments - grey metal knurled nuts on 5mm instruments.
Revington knurled nuts might need exchanging to suit.
Viv
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Stan, is the solenoid new or using the old one ?. Sometimes they take in grit which binds up the return function. First thing is to prove up the solenoid.
Then return to the drill bit adjustment on the other side. Try removing the drill bit before de-energizing the solenoid. Sometimes functional adjustment is just shy of the drill bit setting. Try fiddling around with the adjustment to see if you can get it to drop out.
Rgds,
Viv
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I've been able to choose between an all synchro non overdrive TR3B and a 3 synchro TR3A with overdrive. Both had 3.7:1 diffs.
Which went on highway runs - always the overdrive car for the more relaxed engine revs. Fuel saving was 4-5 mpg (offset by the cost of an eventual overdrive rebuild). It's also about flicking the O/D toggle switch up and down through the mountains. I've tried other cars with a column lever and a gearstick slider switch, but neither had quite the same charm.
Viv
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Don, as you demonstrate, the covers weren't of much benefit to those using paved roads. May have helped owners on farms who constantly drove on dusty gravel tracks.
Bob, the purpose of the circular holes in the dust covers is to ventilate the recess at the back of the rotors. As Lebro referred to, the slots are to allow on/off fitting clearance at the trunnion bottom flange.
Rgds,
Viv
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Road grime tends to collect on the covers that otherwise would have landed on the rotors. Whether that function marginally improves pad or rotor life is hard to tell.
As seen above, the opening goes to the rear. Towards the front is a small S shaped bracket - rear bottom of the opening a dogleg bracket. These face inwards thus determining a left or right hand cover.
Viv
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From the first edition TR2 Instruction Book -
Tyres - Dunlop Normal equipment/Fort or Road Speed (for high speed Continental touring over 100/105mph Road Speed recommended).
Michelin X tyres aren't mentioned, but were obviously an option given they were fitted originally to Dan's car.
Below is the tyre look from my TR2 as a youngster.
Viv
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Viv,
Just wondering at what stage the cross bar was fitted.
Could it have been after the chassis was painted?
Was the cross bar fabricated by the chassis manufacturer?
Or by someone else?
AlanR
Hi Alan,
Far as I know Sankeys made the cross tube as a component part of the chassis, but likely supplied as a loose item. The engine with attached fan had to be dropped in before the cross tube could be fitted.
If Sankey's painted the chassis you'd expect a consistent black finish. Given the various colours seen, it's more likely S-T applied the paint and if black ran out, on went whatever was on the shelf.
Rgds,
Viv.
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Somewhere around the first 1900 TR3A cars had carryover TR2/3 bootlids with T key budget locks each side and a keyed lock in the middle. A mate has a very early ex USA TR3A so equipped from new.
Any central handle on a carryover bootlid is almost certainly retro fitted. The effect would be to make the lid easier to raise like the commonly seen TR3A lid with handle.
Viv
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The Girling system brake light switch has a parallel UNF thread.
It seals at the inner end which explains why a couple of turns of thread remain exposed.
Viv
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Girling master cylinders had an inbuilt stop when the pushrod returned against the internal circlip washer. So theoretically stop bolts became redundant.
Fine when Girling equipped cars were new, but over time the clevis pin hole in the pedal arm becomes elongated. That's when stop bolts are handy to adjust for the slack. Returning the gap to .030" minimum allows the brakes to activate a fraction earlier.
Viv
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If the chassis was originally black, then you'd expect to see a black cross tube.
However, I've seen an original Signal Red chassis, so it's possible that after the engine was fitted, a spare red cross tube went into a black chassis. Such inconsistencies were less important than keeping the production line running.
Viv
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I wonder where and how is this .030 measured ?.
Stan
Stan, it's set via UNF stop bolts at the front of the master cylinder tray.
For some reason the stop bolts were deleted on later cars, but their drill holes/captive nuts were left in place. So I just fit appropriate stop bolts so the clearance can be set accurately.
Rgds,
Viv
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Body and trim colour might help with someone's memory of the car.
Viv
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For correct pedal adjustment, at the master cylinder set the gap before the pushrod hits the piston at .030" but no less or braking is compromised.
Viv
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The Lockheed clutch slave cylinder (TR2/3 drum braked cars) was mounted behind the bracket, Girling slave cylinder (later TR3-4A disc braked cars) in front.
If a Girling slave cylinder needs to be mounted behind the bracket, one explanation is it could have a Lockheed (or other wrong) pushrod.
Viv
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From a 1962 Sunday Times TR2/3/3A owner's handbook -
Road Test TR2.
0-60 mph 11.9 seconds (TR3A 12.4 seconds)
40-60 mph top gear 9.5 seconds (Top overdrive 12.8 seconds)
Diffs were mostly 3.7:1 but 4.1:1 ratio could be ordered for fast getaways.
Improved times would vary between cars. A new stock TR2 with overdrive covered the standing 1/4 mile in 18.1 seconds. My TR2 as a lad with standard bore but stage 2 head, fast road cam and extractor exhaust covered the 1/4 mile in a best time of 16.8 seconds. (As timed at former Fisherman's Bend circuit in Melbourne, later used for drag racing).
Viv
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When offered that car a few years back it was around half the curent asking price, so it looks like being a good investment for the current owner. From memory it's rarer than most Italias, being on a TSF series TR3B chassis/drive train.
I recall the restorer borrowed front and rear bumpers from a USA owner so he could have duplicates hand made. Much effort went into that rebuild to get it right.
Viv
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Apart from the cranked gear lever, the lower rear bulge indicates an all synchro gearbox.
Its A type overdrive with vertical solenoid is TR. S/N 22/61374 is early TR4/ 22/61712 later TR4. Soft engagement TR4A overdrive is 22/61753. The O/D number is under the gearbox top cover, so hard to read when assembled.
A TR4 gearbox should have a number beginning CT stamped on the lower boss near the clutch lever.
Viv
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Compression down in two pots isn't always a problem below the head. It could be burnt valves or just needing a valve grind to restore compression. Check the head before stripping the block.
Whether to to stay with 83mm pistons or go to 87mm is a personal choice, but the larger pistons offer a useful power boost.
If the engine has to be stripped, a few suggestions -
Crack test the crankshaft.
Balance components to help an inherently rough engine.
Replace the chain tensioner (weld up and grind smooth any groove in the engine plate)
Check oil pump tolerance.
If re-using the cam followers, ensure they go back as removed.
Clean gunk out of the rocker shaft whch can starve the end rocker of oil.
Check for any bent push rods.
Make sure the FO8 shelves in the block are spotlessly clean before re-assembly.
Consider an upgraded rear main seal kit.
The felt/rope type vertical seals in the rear bearing cap need a sealing compound or are prone to leaking.
Check that the block deck is flat and the head isn't warped.(essential for head gasket).
Replace welch plugs, especially at the back of the head.
Hope it's just the valves.
Viv.
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To fit post 60k repro boot seals so the lid sits down properly, the incision on the underside has to be deepened. I used a sharp craft knife and safety gloves in case of mishap. The later seal doesn't need any mitres due to rounded corners.
Clear silicone is a viable glue option because it's adjustable. Test fit the seal first. When happy run silicone into the incision - position the seal and close the boot lid so the seal finds its correct level while the silicone cures overnight.
The join in the seal goes centre bottom.
Viv
Engine Paint Colour- Green?
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
That sort of metallic mid green like Healey engines was a rare but original colour. You may have to scan a part to get a match - in a way it reminds of Qualcast mowers.
I've seen a red engine too in the early days. Later I wondered what colour they substituted for the red TR engine marker hand painted on the block. Easily seen on a black engine for allocation to the correct assembly line, but red on red wouldn't have worked.
Viv