vivdownunder
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Posts posted by vivdownunder
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and if it's TS875 as thought, it's got the wrong thermostat housing, gearbox cover and aluminium bonnet (steel by then). You'd think they'd try and get it as originally equipped for the asking price.
Viv
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Stuart's way gets the best fit, except I have someone hold the sidescreen in place instead of taping it there. It's a good way to get the sidescreen to match the windscreen angle, plus reasonably watertight. Before offering up the sidescreen, put masking tape down over the drill area to show the pencil marks. Wrap tape around the drill bit for correct hole depth. As said previously, not a happy day if drilled too deeply.
Wood was deleted at TS60K and the Dzuz fastener fixed to metal only. Harder to repair old drill holes than wood backing plates on the earlier cars..
Viv
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Of concern is the front suspension bottom bump stop installed incorrectly. Having the closed side facing towards the wheel instead of the chassis would render the bump stop ineffective, and therefore a roadworthy defect.
The front disc brake caliper/dust cover as seen is unusual. Never seen calipers mounted at the top before, so looks like an aftermarket product. In some countries major brake modifications require an engineering report for registration.
When they say wider grille, that's not the overall width of the grille, but the openings in the pressing. Wider openings passed more air for cooling in hot climates.
Black was one of 4 original TR3B colours, although towards the end virtually any colour could be custom ordered.
Viv
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....and the (Dan) Gurney bubble on GT40 Fords.
Cheers Don
Viv
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Over your way, try the gaugeguys - APT Instruments in MN.
Viv
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LTD pegs replaced baby Tenax pegs around the cockpit circa TS5256.
At the same time, larger diameter Tenax pegs replaced baby Tenax pegs across the windscreen.
Viv
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The listed item may well fit, but neither type of original TR2/3/3A starter motor had an integrated solenoid. The solenoid always sat on the horizontal firewall beside the pedal box.
Aftermarket Hi Torque starters have integrated solenoids, but it's not one of those.
Viv
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.......and dance
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Dan, if the front fuel pipe on your car joins the rear pipe via a rubber connector, best replace it while under there.
One failed when I had the TR4. Luckily it only dripped rather than dump a tank full on the garage floor.
Rgds,
Viv
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Ken, I mentioned "go in a hurry" to reflect personal experience with fast road cams. "All of a sudden" better describes the next step up - a full race cam.
I've seen too many owners fit a really high lift cam, then be disappointed at the performance in traffic. At low revs there's very little engine vacuum to draw in fuel mixture, so you're forever piling on revs to get away from the lights. It's an uncomfortable way to drive, not to mention constant clutch and thrust bearing failures. Tickover is high and lumpy. Getting the right cam is a tricky business.
In the early years I built quite a few race motors, but wasn't satisfied until I found the cam grinder I wanted. Legendary US TR racer Kas Kastner wasn't happy either until he settled on the late and great Bill Jenks at Potvin Cams, later absorbed by Mooneyes in California.
Viv
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Could be an standard 301466 later reground to fast road. Look for any marks that might identify a cam grinder who could advise on the grind. Fast road cams can be trouble if the car is just for pottering around. Below 3500-4000 rpm there's usually very little grunt, then off you go in a hurry.
Also needed is a set of matched lifters, tested for uniform surface hardness. Using old lifters can result in tears. If the block is pre TS8997E, it's worth getting cam bearings fitted, if not already installed. Overhead gear needs to be in good shape and consider stronger valve springs to stop valve bounce.
To get the best out of a fast road cam, the head should be gas flowed/larger exhaust valves and a tubular exhaust fitted with non restrictive muffler. Dizzy advance needs recalibrating and the engine tuned on a rolling road to find the ideal carby needles.
So there's a bit to consider.
Viv
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Stan. I've been using the Penrite steering lube for ages, in fact I suggested it to the late owner of Penrite (their HO is nearby). You can tape a small funnel in place and keep topping it up. Or put the lube into a squeeze bottle with a tube and force it in. Heating up isn't viable as it cools too quickly. It's a time consuming task, but important to fill the box so the upper bearing is properly lubed.
However, once in it stays put - I have a TR last filled 19 years ago and it's still as full as a state school.
Viv
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If you don't have Irwin Bolt Grips to get you out of the sh*t
, try welding on a 12mm x 3/8" drive thinwall long socket.Best done with the insulator left on, as it guides the socket onto the metal part of the plug for welding.
Viv
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Either base fits the floor tracks, but as Stuart referred to, TR2 backs are flatter across the top with smaller rounded side corners. TR3A backs are a more rounded shape across the top with thicker padded trim. A tilting back TR3A passenger seat only matters if access is needed for an occasional rear seat.
Bit of work but you might be able to use the TR2 bases by removing the backs and grafting on your existing TR3A backs. Or try KAS Kilmartin Automotive Sheetmetal Products in the Netherlands for excellent Aussie made TR3A seat bases. They make replacement Healey, TR and MG chassis and sheet metal products.
Viv
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For the back of the cockpit, try a sharp pointed small diameter round file. Rotating the file backwards in the hole (for less aggression) removes the paint build-up.
For the screw-in pegs, place masking tape over holes to help avoid chipping. Clean out the thread with a peg, or sheet metal screw. Remove the masking tape and fit the pegs with cushioning leather washers. The spanner is an odd size but 11/32" will nip them up.
Viv
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Hi Russell,
Local info so PM sent.
Rgds,
Viv
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Concur first port of call for a 1.5" drop would be a sagged or broken coil spring. If so, be careful to remove it with a safe spring compressor.
Trunnions were initially lubed with oil. Thereafter the owner's Instruction Book says 3 or 4 strokes with a grease gun every 1000 miles. Helps if the car is off the ground to release pressure on the Trunnion internal thread (thrust faces). 6 brands of grease were recommended for the British Isles but Castrol LM is a good modern day substitute.
Viv
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A while back I started a project to make Baby Tenax pegs. Thanks to a helpful TR2 owner making available an original sample, we managed to get them very close, but not perfect. Five prototypes still sit on my desk awaiting new instructions to the clever engineer who tooled up to make such a tiny item.
It wasn't a commercial project, just a service for early TR2 owners, so I must get back onto it before the engineer retires.
Viv
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Stan, down at carpet level the handbrake essentially moves up and down rather than back and forth. TRF's Magic Carpet Factory has probably figured that out and left a neater small opening.
Rgds,
Viv
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The idler lasts a lot longer if greased every now and then. It's easily accessed if the grease fitting is rotated to face towards the front wheel.
I've seen knackered idlers as dry as a crisp
Viv
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60 spoke wheels are perfectly adequate. Width is a personal choice, but the correct offset is important. Go too wide and the rears can rub when cornering, or if the car is loaded for a trip. A few I know have damaged newly restored cars after fitting oversized rims.
You'll need a 4.5" wheel for the spare, especially if it's a pre 60K car with the narrower well. Wire wheels go in with the spline facing down.
Spline adaptors are handed and must go on the correct side. Special spline fixing nuts are needed as steel wheel nuts don't suit. Existing steel wheel studs have to be shortened or they hit the back of wire wheels hubs.
Viv
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Don, most likely prudent for Italia to insist that TSF502-530 chassis be fitted with 3 synchro gearboxes, in keeping with ongoing owner's manuals and dealer service advisories. Saves supplementary drawings and printing for such a small run of cars.
Also no mix of short stubby 3 synchro gear levers and the longer cranked gear levers of all synchro boxes. Can't be sure though until all Italias with a TSF chassis/drive train are accounted for.
Viv
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Be interesting to know if the inside of the block is painted green. Commonly seen on competition engines to aid prompt return of oil to the sump.
Long ago I had a Holbay Ford in an F3 open wheeler and it was a very similar shade of green. Rebuild costs left me me a shade of grey !.
Don, I recall a white TR3A that came to Australia with a metallic green engine. Back then it was just another curiosity and I wouldn't have thought to check for an FR plate affixed over the engine number. It could have been a spare or rebuilt competition engine, knowing it wouldn't return from the colonies. The factory once shipped a "Geranium Red" TR2 to an Oz buyer who had ordered a red car while in the UK. Jeffrey had no idea he needed to specify "Signal" red, but ended up keeping it all his life.
Viv
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Seals can fail when the outer surface of the jet isn't as smooth as it could be. Polishing with jeweller's rouge or the like eliminates the problem.
Notwithstanding the above warning, I've fitted O rings and cork seals to various cars over the years and on balance O rings last longer. It's essential to have the correct diameter. If not they either leak or the choke is hard to use. It's also essential to fit fuel grade O rings.
Another cause of leaking seals I've seen is if a cupped brass washer between the seal and spring is inadvertantly fitted upside down.
Dan, being so original, wouldn't your car still have H4 1.5" SU carbies ?. If so, they take exactly the same jet seals as later H6 1.75" SUs.
Viv
Sidescreen Wedge Mounts (early 3A)
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
The top timber was removed at TS60K, but thinking back, I have seen blocks in radius edge doors. The last late car I rebuilt TS79550-0 didn't have them as I recall repairing and redrilling holes in the metal only.
Viv