vivdownunder
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Posts posted by vivdownunder
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Insulated clips were a later attempt to overcome vapor locks suspected from heat absorbtion into the fuel line.
Roger, what is does the rotating wheel do ?., Fast radiator warm up ?. Surely not a 007 device
Viv.
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Hi Frank,
I've scratched around trying to find that info but came up dry. TR3 Driver should know.
What I did discover in ancient files is that my ex CA but Durban assembled RHD 3A was shipped down during 1994 on the Zim America. That same vessel became the Rena which foundered off New Zealand in 2011. Also uncovered that I collected the 3A on 27/08/94, so 21st birthday cake in sight.
Sorry I didn't find the RB106/2 data - must get around to digitalizing decades of paper files one of these days. Good job you asked though or I wouldn't have dug up all this irrelevant stuff.
Rgds,
Viv
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David, you should find in the search function that when bringing the spring pan up, use long bolts in the centre lower wishbone holes as guides. Makes it a lot easier to align the inner lower wishbone bolts.
Viv
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Stan asked about stanchion change points in post 20 and I've not seen that established. Most likely only recorded as Engineering Changes (ECs) lost in time.
In post 21, Alan mentioned something obscure - aluminium stanchions came with polished aluminium windscreen frames. It's thought of as an unsuccessful attempt at cost saving, or less likely a scarcity of brass. Not weight related as for competition.
Hoods had two flaps along the top of the sidescreens. A deeper inner flap and a shallower outer flap. Sidescreens closed against the inner flap, with the outer flap designed to drain water over and outside. With rebuilds, that fit usually only happens if the hood is up and sidescreens with attached brackets held in place to scribe new bracket holes.
The puckered seam on Archie's hood isn't right. When hoodstick webbing is changed, if possible use the old webbing as a pattern to get the correct spacings between hoodsticks. They closely followed the hood seams. Hoodmakers don't have original patterns, so these days it's the best fit achievable.
Viv
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Best I know the stanchion sequence went along these lines -
TR2/3/3A Chrome plated Dzuz type LH 552181 RH 552182 (captive plate - windscreen slides on/off).
TR3A Polished aluminium bolt on LH 560671 RH 560672 (not recorded as having a plate).
TR3A Chrome plated bolt on LH 560627 RH 560628 (with loose plate that embeds in stanchion).
TR3A/B Chrome plated bolt on LH 804511 RH 804512 (no plate - mounts against body).
Lower corner finishers on TR3B stanchions changed from ear shaped to a sort of rectangular shape (or at least they did on my former TR3B).
Sometimes hoods (and sidescreens) don't fit correctly due to occupants using the windscreen to lift up out of the seat, thus bending the stanchion inwards. Also, it's difficult for off the shelf hood makers with variations between cars arising from the factory custom fitting each hood.
Viv
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I have a pair of 40 DCOE's used in 1955 on the major race winning TR2 that put TRs on the map here. All these years later that same TR2 is now the London based 2008 and 2010 Classic LeMans category winner belonging to a forum member.
Funny enough info from the era matched data in post 26 including trying F15 tubes if spitting. Also that 40s were prone to minor fuel leaks. Post 29 will help with rolling road tuning when I get around to fitting these Webers to the 3A.
Viv
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Nick, if records are correct, TS1951-O was once in New Zealand with engine TS2096E. Shows as White back then.
I have good contacts in NZ if you want to follow up any racing history there.
Viv
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Hi Dave,
Just a short way of saying I prefer electric fans as pushers, rather than sucking it through. Seems more efficient in traffic on hot days, but plenty disagree and fit electric puller fans like the mechanical originals.
Aircon or next best evaporative cooling is a must here in summer or you can't sleep.
Rgds,
Viv
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Once the engine frees up, at speed the hood will billow up in the centre, but not come adrift.
Fitting the pass sidescreen calms it down a bit.
Viv
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Casual observations -
The so called tropical fan is nothing special - just a Triumph sedan fan - breaker's yards had them by the truckload.
I've always fitted blow-through fans - reasoning - who stands behind a fan to cool down ?.
Viv
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The problem is repro windscreen pegs differ from the original Tenax pegs.
Original Tenax pegs had 2.5mm of thread with an undercut shank so the thread stood proud of the shank. As such they went in right up to the nut and didn't hit the glass.
Repro pegs (slightly pointed instead of round head) have 3.75mm threads. The shanks are longer and the diameter of the thread. Once the shank is reached, the peg won't go in any further unless forced. Shortening the thread makes them usable, but in addition the shank should be either undercut, or threaded right up to the nut. No easy task on such a small item. For those not bothered with originality, a flat washer is a quick fix.
Viv
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It's difficult to predict the outcome of your proposed modifications. Post TS60000 cars went to a lip seal, but with rounded corners instead of square. There was also a new boot lid which isn't interchangeable with the earlier lid due to raised hinge plinths.
You could try a lip seal on the outer leg of the U channel, but it would be trial and error as to whether it worked. I'd be taking Stuart's suggestion that it isn't too difficult to get a length of sheet metal folded up to the original design. Mitre the corners and you are away.
Then when it's time to sell, you won't have an unusual boot seal used against the car.
Viv
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According to records, the full commission number is TS1953L, indicating it left the factory as a LHD car without overdrive. Some factory traces (birth certificates) show a delivery destination. If it went to the USA and any of the owners there were car club members, Vintage Triumph Register or Triumph Register of America may be able to help. VTR club magazine's editor was a senior executive of Standard-Triumph in America, so he may have personal knowledge you could tap into.
Viv
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For those wondering, Joe Richards rescued and restored TS1LO, the hand built (pre production) first TR2.
Apart from having more aluminium panelling, sister car to TS2, the TR Register's hand built second TR2.
Viv
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With repro stoneguard sins, Edwin's TR2 has an advantage over Stan's car. Vynil beading helps more than later rigid beading.
Viv
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John, thanks for pointing out 552422 early upper windscreen seals are now available. Can't recall seeing this part since Stanpart stocks ran out here in the early 70s.
Viv
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Stan, that's not too bad a fit at the moment. For marginal improvement, removing some of the tapered lip (centre of the red circle) can reduce thickness where the bead meets the inner stoneguard. You can see how narrow the original lip was in Stuart's pic - almost nothing at the very top.
As Stuart said, cars vary, so improving repro stoneguards is an exercise in making a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
The bottom flange of the inner stoneguard has a small self tapper up into the sill to keep the stoneguard hard against the body.
Viv
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Haven't seen wedges on the door side before. Wedges went to the cabin side to be snug in the tapered brackets. Legs to the door side parallel with the trim. I recall the door side of the legs had recesses so the wedge screw heads didn't foul the bracket.
On the unmolested TR2 I had as a lad, that's how the wedges left the factory.
For the legs to go on the cabin side, seems they would need to be bent to fit the tapered sides of the brackets. As always, owner's call.
Viv
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The vertical tenon plates (flanges) either side of the windscreen are sidescreen stops. They position the sidescreens so the hood overlaps along the top to be as drip proof as possible. Without the tenon plates, stanchion to windscreen frame screws, unless shortened, would bite into the glass and break it.
The integral flange across the top of the windscreen should be covered by a rubber seal. It's there to stiffen the windscreen frame and for attaching the three hardtop hold-down brackets.
Collision injury risk in a TR is obviously much higher than a modern car on a number of levels - look at the doors and what would happen if T boned. No collapsible steering column etc. That said, in a collision I'd rather be in a TR than on a motor bike.
Viv.
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Frank, I haven't fitted a C45 to a TR, only a Jag, but I don't think the larger diameter would make much difference, other than perhaps needing a different length belt. More important is mount detail. A C39 inside-inside lower mount spacing is 144.5mm, so perhaps your conversion shop can check if a C45 matches or not.
Also the C45 pulley has to align with your water pump and crank pulleys. To compare, you'd need a C45 measurement from the inside of the front lower mount to the flat outside of the pulley. That measurement on a C39 is 49.5mm.
There are a few variations of the C45 dynamo, so you'd need the one measured to be the one you receive.
Holdens in the UK sell a C39 dynamo converted to alternator, so I wonder why your shop's alternator insides have to go in a C45, other than Jags being a larger market ?.
Viv
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Mike, is it leaking out the front seals, or down from the top ?. Some top gaskets aren't ideal and leak. Also internally the M/C can spit back though the breather in the filler cap. To avoid this the lid can be rotated so the cap is the other way.
If it's at the front, then it's the cups. I'd be inclined to carefully inspect the bores and if good just fit new cups. Repro cups should be good for silicone or DOT fluid, providing the two have never mixed. I'd trust TRF for a quality Lockheed repair kit.
Viv
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kstarr719, Ex race cars are always a lottery. Webers indicate a quick car in its day. SCCA on the cockpit cover is likely Sports Car Club of America who conducted sports car racing in the 50's, sometimes on military tarmacs, so it might have a very interesting history. Unless raced by Fangio, Moss etc., tired old racers can be hard to sell, so bargain hard on price.
Without the commission number it could be a long door TR2 converted to short door. If Don H can point you to John Warfield for advice, that will be invaluable in your decision.
Viv
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Try Metalock Engineering UK. If like Metalock here, there's not too many cracked castings they can't repair.
I think the gold standard is 8 cracks mended in a low port head that never gave any further trouble.
Viv
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At face value it's a rare TR2 - less than 30 short door cars were made with cable pull bonnet (inner guard brackets remain). At some stage it's been updated to split steering.
Interesting to know if that's a factory aluminium cockpit cover - an early optional extra. Modification to accept a half tonneau is a novelty.
The open faced helmet sitting on the pass seat hasn't been race legal for many, many years, thus an indication of how long it's been in storeage.
Viv
Correction bad math - should be less than 230
Sidescreen installation and alignment
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I've sat the sidescreen down on an old towel, brackets up. Old towel on top and two flat boards either side of the finger pull.
Stand on it, reach down and adjust the brackets to bring the sidescreen in or out.
Viv