TR Man
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Posts posted by TR Man
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Hi All,
We have fitted new finned aluminium brake drums but there has been quite significant interference with the back plates, specifically with the flange on the inside of the back plates.
Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so how was it remedied?
It seems to us that all we can do is to grind away some of the back plate flange. Unfortunately we don't have easy access to a lathe.
Best wishes,
Martin
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Thanks Martin & Peter.
I will examine more closely and try a longer screw.
Martin, what is the thread spec please?
If the longer screw doesnt engage I will live with the loose screw for now
Thanks again for your help
Steve
Hi Steve,
I thinks it is a 1/4 inch 28 thread UNF, i.e. the same as the wing bolts but with a screw head and a pointy end.
Regards,
Martin
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Hi all
One of the screws holding the lower hinge to the A post is loose. It will not tighten. I cannot find any reference in a workshop manual or restoration guide as to what the screw screws into. (Captive nut?).
The door fit is fine, all other screws are tight. I would just like to tighten this loose screw. - Is the only way to get to the nut by removing the wing?
I bought the car for the most part restored so I dont want to start doing too much pulling apart if the loose screw can be lived with.
Any advice welcome
Thanks
Steve
Hi Steve,
Yes these screws go into the standard captive nuts in both the door and the A-post. I assume you are talking about a TR 3A, 3 or 2. I cannot remember if the TR4 is any different.
We are restoring a TR3A and we removed the captive nuts from the front of the A-post as they were in poor condition. We are using longer screws and nylock nuts on the A-post. We found that if you use a slightly longer screw in the door it has a few more threads to give extra grip. The original screws are barely long enough in some of the holes. Tnerefore try a slightly longer screw - you have to be a little more patient as the longer ones do not have a pointy end which helps locate the captive nut.
Regards,
Martin
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Yes, I also thought that it would be too far off topic!
I can get carried away when it comes to sailing. I sailed my first dinghy long before I had my drivers license!
Back on topic now: there's a Meet & Greet in Almen, in the east of The Netherlands. The Dutch TR Club Holland has an article on their website. I don't know why it isn't in English or German, therefore I don't think that it has any use posting a link.
The theme for this year is about racing and rallying. I know that there will be some TR milestones attending the meet: e.g. a Works TR7V8 group 4 rally car and various other 'TR Milestones' : a 1960 TRS that attended Le Mans and Sebring that year. A 1954 TR2 (OVC 276), driven by Ken Richardson and Ray Henderson; the first works rallycar. And the Red Baron Classic Racing Team will display their current stable of racing TRs. And last but not least: the Huet HB Special.
If you want additional info about this, don't hesitate to PM me for more info. (I'm not involved in the event itself, but off course I will try to answer your questions!)
Have a nice weekend!
Menno
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Yes, I also thought that it would be too far off topic!
I can get carried away when it comes to sailing. I sailed my first dinghy long before I had my drivers license!
Back on topic now: there's a Meet & Greet in Almen, in the east of The Netherlands. The Dutch TR Club Holland has an article on their website. I don't know why it isn't in English or German, therefore I don't think that it has any use posting a link.
The theme for this year is about racing and rallying. I know that there will be some TR milestones attending the meet: e.g. a Works TR7V8 group 4 rally car and various other 'TR Milestones' : a 1960 TRS that attended Le Mans and Sebring that year. A 1954 TR2 (OVC 276), driven by Ken Richardson and Ray Henderson; the first works rallycar. And the Red Baron Classic Racing Team will display their current stable of racing TRs. And last but not least: the Huet HB Special.
If you want additional info about this, don't hesitate to PM me for more info. (I'm not involved in the event itself, but off course I will try to answer your questions!)
Have a nice weekend!
Menno
View of EPS motor
View from behind without wheel
Left side – overall view
Right side view without roll bar in position, cable ties
Left side view, no roll over bar, battery box in position
With beautiful Corsa steering wheel – for positioning purposes only!
Brackets – left side view
Showing attachment to pedal box – left side view
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Yes, I also thought that it would be too far off topic!
I can get carried away when it comes to sailing. I sailed my first dinghy long before I had my drivers license!
Back on topic now: there's a Meet & Greet in Almen, in the east of The Netherlands. The Dutch TR Club Holland has an article on their website. I don't know why it isn't in English or German, therefore I don't think that it has any use posting a link.
The theme for this year is about racing and rallying. I know that there will be some TR milestones attending the meet: e.g. a Works TR7V8 group 4 rally car and various other 'TR Milestones' : a 1960 TRS that attended Le Mans and Sebring that year. A 1954 TR2 (OVC 276), driven by Ken Richardson and Ray Henderson; the first works rallycar. And the Red Baron Classic Racing Team will display their current stable of racing TRs. And last but not least: the Huet HB Special.
If you want additional info about this, don't hesitate to PM me for more info. (I'm not involved in the event itself, but off course I will try to answer your questions!)
Have a nice weekend!
Menno
With beautiful Corsa steering wheel – for positioning purposes only!
Brackets – left side view
Showing attachment to pedal box – left side view
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Yes, I also thought that it would be too far off topic!
I can get carried away when it comes to sailing. I sailed my first dinghy long before I had my drivers license!
Back on topic now: there's a Meet & Greet in Almen, in the east of The Netherlands. The Dutch TR Club Holland has an article on their website. I don't know why it isn't in English or German, therefore I don't think that it has any use posting a link.
The theme for this year is about racing and rallying. I know that there will be some TR milestones attending the meet: e.g. a Works TR7V8 group 4 rally car and various other 'TR Milestones' : a 1960 TRS that attended Le Mans and Sebring that year. A 1954 TR2 (OVC 276), driven by Ken Richardson and Ray Henderson; the first works rallycar. And the Red Baron Classic Racing Team will display their current stable of racing TRs. And last but not least: the Huet HB Special.
If you want additional info about this, don't hesitate to PM me for more info. (I'm not involved in the event itself, but off course I will try to answer your questions!)
Have a nice weekend!
Menno
Hello Again All,
Yes, Viv, I sail a 2006 Petticrow and my previous boat a 1997 Petticrow, ‘King Rat’ was sold ‘down under’ but I cannot remember the name of the new owner. Perhaps she is being sailed in your area. We had fantastic weather in Kinsale at the Championships but it is raining again here today. Hope you have better weather for your sailing in Holland, Menno!
We finished the basic fitting of the EPS unit last night and I hope I can get the pictures up now. I have included a few taken at an early stage where the unit is being supported by cable ties. We had not fitted the under scuttle roll over bar at that stage and it will give those of you who have not fitted a roll bar an idea of how easy it would be to make up a rear bracket using the original ‘anchor’ fitting.
Requirements for Electric Power Steering for TR2, TR3 or TR3A
1. Opel/Vauxhall Corsa B EPS unit with EPS ECU (€115 used, delivered)
2. After-market assistance control ESG unit (€44.99 new, delivered)
3. Length of steel plating (600 x 30 x 4 mm) – rear end support – vertical and horizontal
4. Length of angle iron (245 x 20 x 2 mm) – horizontal front end support
5. Length of steel plating (180 x 20 x 2 mm) – vertical front end support
6. Nuts & Bolts
7. Welding and cutting equipment
General
We connected the rear of the EPS unit (i.e. the steering wheel end) to an under scuttle roll bar, however the original steering bracket would also be ideal and probably less steel plating (No 3 above) would be used in the adaptation. Conversion of a LHD car would be slightly different and would necessitate turning the EPS unit upside down otherwise the motor would not fit because the battery box would get in the way. In a LHD car the rear bracket would have to enclose the steering column however this would not present any problems. The front end would basically be fabricated the same way with slight changes. The variations would not present any major problems as this Corsa EPS unit fits very snugly between the dashboard and the bulkhead of the sidescreen TR.
Description of fabrication
There are four fixing points on the Corsa B EPS unit, two at the front and two at the back.
Rear end support (i.e. steering wheel end)
We fabricated a U-boxed shaped support bracket using No 3 above. The lower cross member of this bracket takes up a slanting position, estimating the angle of which becomes obvious during fabrication. This is because the EPS unit takes up a position where the front end is lower than the back end. The upper ends of this U-box are welded to the roll bar. We fabricated the verticals in two short pieces and bolted them together so as to be able to make adjustments if necessary. We will eventually weld these plates together. One probably would not weld these in the case of a LHD so the unit could be dropped easily when dismantling.
Front end support (i.e. bulkhead end)
The pedal box is ideally placed to help support the front end of the EPS unit. An angle iron (No 4 above) is bolted horizontally to the lower back edge of the pedal box (see extra bolt heads in one of the pictures) and the inner end is welded to a vertical steel plate (No 5 above) whose upper end is bolted with two bolts to the front left (inner) vertical part of the original steering bracket.
With all the nuts tightened it is impossible to move the unit – it is totally rock solid and very strong. We will eventually use Nylock nuts throughout the assembly.
I am not sure how many images I am allowed post in one rpely so I will keep posting them until all 13 are published.
Regards,
Martin
Right side view back bracket
Attachment to pedal box from underneath
Assistance adjustment control, ESG, original EPS ECU
Behind without steering wheel
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Sorry Everybody,
That link I posted above does not seem to be working.
Instead please 'Google':
'Corsa Rally Kit Escort Electric Power Steering Control Unit'
or look it up through E-Bay.
I see it is for sale in Bandon, Co Cork - I will be passing through that town tomorrow as it turns out. Maybe I can pick one up.
Regards,
Martin
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Yes Martin, that looks like a brilliant piece of innovation.
Do you know if the EPS uses much current, as you didn't say if you are/have fitted an alternator ?.
Is the rate of power assistance adjustable....maybe via ECU or a potentiometer/rheostat (if a higher current is passing through).
I wonder if you have driven the car converted to R & P, as they are usually fairly light to steer, and it might not need very much power assistance.
Regards.
Viv
Dear Menno and Viv,
I would say the motor EPS must use a good few amps and I would guess a good battery and modern alternator are essential. We basically are building a modern car. Yes Viv, we have an alternator fitted and I also omitted to say that the ignition is electronic. We will fit a completley modern electrical system and optimise it with 'relays' wherever they will help.
If you click on the link below you can read about 'CORSA RALLY ELECTRIC POWER STEERING COLUMN CONTROLLER', we think we will probably fit this switch to the dashboard and so far as I know it controls the amount of assistance required by the driver.
To answer your question about rack and pinion steering, Viv. I have never driven a sidescreen without the 'worm'. I bought a TR2 in 1964 and a TR3A in 1966. Both had very 'loose' or 'wobbly' steering. The TR4 I bought in 1970 had much 'sweeter' steering but I cannot remember the details of how light it was when parking. However we knew no different then, as powered steering was for big cars lke Mercedes and Cadillacs! The reason I thought of it for the current car was in case my wife wanted to drive it (she was my girlfriend when I had the TR3a and TR4). I doubt very much that she will drive it, but you never know. I suppose when the car was in a state of disrepair and undergoing a 'nut and bolt' refit it seems like the right time to do it. We did consider that the R&P steering would not be too heavy on its own, but never the less decided to try the EPS - just in case. It is easy to revert to the original if necessary. I suppose I am used to modern cars now and like the members you are concerned for Viv, I am looking for an easy life and don't fancy having to struggle when parking - it takes some of the enjoyment away.
The Corsa universl joint/extension has a rectangular connecting piece and we will need to adjust the steering column to fit. To join the lower column that comes up from the R&P to the Corsa fitting, we are thinking of using the old upper column, adapting it by cutting it to fit and adjusting the profile of the upper end where it connects to the Corsa universal extension (i.e. make it rectangular - probably a simple enough operation). We plan to use the original bulkead column support fitting with a 'cut-down' outer tube to protect the old column as it passes throught the bulkhead. If this does not do the job we will come up with some other arrangement.
I am sorry I will not be working on the car until late next week Menno but will definitely take photos from every angle and post them in this thread. I am off to Kinsale, Co Cork for Dragon racing for the long weekend (Irsih Dragon Championships) - it is very remiss of me to allow boats get in he way of TRs!
Look forward to communicating wiht you again then.
Regards,
Martin
LINK:
http://cgi.ebay.ie/Corsa-rally-kit-Escort-Electric-Power-steering-Control_W0QQitemZ320362495633QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090421?IMSfp=TL090421128001r661#ebayphotohosting
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Thanks Menno.
I'm interested on behalf of many of our senior members getting on towards, and over their '70's, who are very keen to retain and keep driving their beloved TR's, but are finding the steering tiresome. Organised Wednesday runs are popular for a lot of retired folk, and some have to wrestle through heavy late afternoon traffic to get home.
It will be a far different kettle of fish making a power steering kit for a sidescreen TR than a rack and pinion model. I guess it's preferable if they can overcome the challenges in keeping the original control head, but for these chaps it's really about driving their cars, rather than being too worried about where the indicator and horn controls are located.
Yes the control head becomes obsolete on a R & P conversion, as there's no inner column for the stator tube.
Regards,
Viv.
Hello Menno and Viv,
Really nice photos Menno, the powder blue is stunning.
A friend and I are restoring a 1958 TR3A and are about a year behind you, Menno (maybe more at the rate we're going!). The car is originally from California and we have converted it to right hand drive so adherence to strict originality is not an ambition with this particular car. I take the approach that any modern comforts that we can avail of we will fit, e.g. servo for the brakes, new heater, radio with MP3 etc, etc. We have fitted rack and pinion steering, lower suspension, negative camber, stiffened springs, the engine has been rebuilt by Racestorations and makes 150 bhp, gearbox with overdrive and up-rated drive shaft, differential and half shafts.
For the past few nights we have been fitting power steering to the upper steering column. We are using an Opel Corsa B electric power steering unit. I bought this from www.summerhillspares.ie for €105 with €15 delivery charge. It includes the original steering ECU. It will be necessary to buy an electronic adaptor that can be purchased on the web for €45. You would think that this Corsa EPS unit has been specially designed to fit a sidescreen TR. It fits like a glove, absolutely perfectly, between the dashboard and the front bulkhead and does not get in the way of anything. The steering wheel fits beautifully in just the right position. The column has an electric motor sticking out the side of it which is positioned just behind the pedal box. It has a totally universal extension to fit to the lower column, so precision alignment is unnecessary. We have supported the steering end of the unit to brackets welded to the front horizontal part of the crash bar running underneath the scuttle. If you don't have one of these crash bars it is easy to fit the Corsa column to the original TR fitting steering wheel support fitting. Currently we are working on the dashboard end and we have bolted one of the Corsa column brakets to the pedal box. Next week (Friday) we will finish the basic fitting and I will post some photos for you.
We were amazed at how well it fitted and how easy it was to do so. It is as solid as a rock.
Menno your photos inspire the rest of us 'restorers'. We still haven't made a final decision on the colour for our car.
Regards,
Martin
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London Chroming 735 Old Kent Road will do bumpers and also repair them which a lot of them dont.
Stuart
Hi Stuart,
I hope you don't mind my picking your professional brain. I am restoring a TR3A and will need to re-chrome some parts when the time comes. I am very interested in this thread. I hope to send all the parts off together to get the best value. Some of the parts have small pits e.g. the windscreen stanchions. Is it possible to replate this type of part with good results oris it necessary purchase new?
Regards,
Martin
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I've been following this topic all day. I wasn't near my own computer with the pics on the hard drive. Now I am. Here's my contribution (pic)
Menno
Very nice Stone Guard Menno! Did you have it specially chromed? - looks much nicer than the 'dull' chrome look. Did you get extra chrome on the grille also?
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First of all, please don't shout. The use of all uppercase is equivalent to shouting. We can hear you.
You need to do a basic check of your wiring. Get yourself a service manual and check the circuit to and from the flasher and lights.
DID FRANK J ANGELINI GET OUT OF THE WRONG SIDE OF THE BED THIS MORNING?
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Does anyone know if replacement tach and speedo faces are available? I assume that originally these were produced with a silk screening process?
Hello Frank,
I don't know the answer to this question but presumably someone somewhere makes them as Moss Europe can supply a Tachometer or Speedometer.
Rev Counter part no. is 106970R £78.78
Speedometer exchange part no. is 108192R (axle 3.7:1, tyres 5.60x15) £78.78. They supply similar for other axle ratios.
Don't know if this is any help as you only want the face. Perhaps they can help if you email or call them. (London tel: 020 88672020, email: sales@moss-europe.co.uk)
Regards,
Martin
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Hello have just bought a very nice TR3A (and joined the club), but would like to add a few goodies, i have purchased a overdrive, and hard top, will be fitting, i am mostly into MGs in particular Twin cams, i did however own a couple TRs back in the 60s would also like to fit oil cooler i have one from a MGA think would be the same ? where do you mount the cooler as i said i am new to TR ownership, find the forum very useful, are there any modifications you would recommend IE narrow fan belt, etc
Dear Twincams,
Here is a link I stole from TRDoctor. It shows a flip down front apron. Very neat work underneath showing a well positioned oil cooler.
http://www.performancedesign.net/oldsite/p...404Sample.s.pdf
Regards,
Martin
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Hi Martin
If the weld is done PROPERLY it is stronger than the parent metal. My one on the car was shortened by the same amount as you anticipate.
Although you put a stalk onto the dash, it still wont self cancel. Try the buzzer like I did - it helps
Dave
Hi Dave,
Sorry about the delay in replying. I have not visited the Forum for the past week. I note what you say about the welding and will keep that in mind if shortening the upper end is not going to work out. I am sure if I make enquiries I will be able to source some one who would be qualified to do it properly. The buzzer is a good idea and perhaps a little flashing light.
I will report back to the Forum when we have successfully finished the steering. Could be awhile away yet!
Regards,
Martin
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Hi Martin
Don't know if it's any good to you but I have an inner top column for a TR3A suitable for the telescopic steering arrangement. The column is hollow and the top spline length is 4.75" long or 12cms if you prefer the metric. It has been cut at some stage but welded together with a sleeve and the whole lot is concentric. Overall length is 36.75" or 93.5cms
I have R&P with a Moto Lita wheel with the horn in the middle and the turning signal operated from a single stalk off the column. It is not self canceling so I fitted a buzzer from Maplin across the indicator warning light to remind me to cancel afterwards. Pictures of my set up are on a previous thread.
Dave
Thank you for your kind offer, Dave. Another member has sent me a inner column from a TR3a that we think we can shorten by about 2-3 inches without losing too much of the splines at the steering wheel end. We decided not to cut and re-weld an inner column for safety reasons.
I am glad you told me about your Moto Lita wheel with the central button for the horn. I hope we will be able to do the same. I also would be quite happy to have a nearby stalk switch on the dashboard for the indicators.
Kind regrads,
Martin
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Here's the last TR4 upper column I installed on a R & P conversion.
http://www.tr-register.com.au/pics/2006/co.../copelandk2.jpg
Regards,
Viv.
Nice picture, Viv. Really like the wheel!
Regards,
Martin
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Thank you Viv and Stuart for the excellent advice. Another member has contacted me privately and is offering me a spare TR4 set up for a very reasonable price. I am taking this based on your advice. Thank you both once again. This Forum is a great resource.
Regards,
Martin
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Dear All,
We have fitted an RHD rack and pinion steering conversion to an 1959 TR3A which we are currently renovating, (originally LHD, California). The R & P was supplied in the early 90s by TRBitz but we have no upper steering column. On searching MOSS and other websites we have been unable to find a good description or photo of the upper steering arrangement. I wonder what bracket is used at the bulkhead and also what are the arrangements under the dashboard. Any advice and particularly images would be very welcome.
Regards,
Martin
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Dear Jmarm,
I have been renovating a 1958 TR3A slowly for the past few years with a friend. I am now at the stage where a decision on colour must soon be made, so I have the same dillemma as you do.
As my TR is from California originally and we have converted it to a right hand drive it will never be original. I don't want to pretend it is original and therefore have taken the liberty of building a TR that I personally like. It has a fast road engine with uprated drive shaft and back axle. Rack and pinion steering. Lowered suspension with 1 degree of negative camber. It will have 72 chrome spoke Tr6 weels. I am going to pimp up the chrome trim so the stone guards and the wide mouthed grill will be extra shiny etc, etc. I want it to look and sound really 'cool'. Childish I know, but I think the TR3a lends itself very well to these kind of modicications. I have purchased an original steel hardtop and have installed a full roll cage for safety. However I still have decide on the basic colour and do all the assembly electricals, trim etc.
I think Don Elliott's colour scheme is really attractive and have often thought about this arrangement. One has to have absolutely perfect body panels (which I will have) to use black - but the chrome looks maginificient in contrast. Red trim is the most attractive with black.
I agree with Richard3A when he says you should paint it any colour you like. 10-15 years ago 'originality' was all the rage but things have moved on and comfort and safety are now paramount. I personally think you can improve the value of your TR3A by upgrading it. I don't like the big original steering wheel and much prefer the newer 'Motolite' type wheels that are available. I think an attractive colour on a really well presented TR is very pleasing. The original Triumph shades are a bit boring and too restrictive for a nice car that has been a bit 'pimped', especially if the car is not original anyway.
I will be interested to hear of any nice colours that anyone can think of. It helps to watch 'Wrecks to Riches' and other TV programs. A light primrose yellow (not the awful 'olive' yellow, more the Jaguar light colour yellow), could be attractive with a mid grey trim. A silver body with a mid to dark blue trim could also be nice, but would it show the chrome off well? Red or dark blue with a tan or light coloured trim can be excellent. That original BRG with a light tan or cream trim (as seen in one ot the Triumph books) is very nice also.
I would be glad to see some nice photos or hear of anyone's ideas.
Regards,
Martin
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Dear Richard,
I purchased wing piping from MOSS last year. Initially I thought they had sent me the TR2 piping as it appeared to be plastic. On closer examination I relaised the piping was covered with a dull tough plastic coating that can be peeled off to reveal shiny metal underneath.
I assumed that MOSS supply this piping for all side-screen TRs. If you have the appropriate TR2 then you just paint over the plastic coating and if you have a later car you peel off the plastic coating. Hence the same part mumber perhaps?
Maybe you'd better check with MOSS that my assumptions are correct before you purchase it. Their contact details are under the 'Suppliers' section of this website.
Regards,
Martin
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Hi All,
As you know i am looking to purchase a Tr3 to join my six.
However i have driven many different types of sports cars over the years but never a Tr3/ 3a or 2, and yet i want to
own one. In fact i have only been in one, and that was Phil Tuckers.
So question has to be , what are they really like to own, drive and live with?
Thanks Muchly
Guy
Dear Guy,
I would like to add my tuppence worth. In th e1960s I owned and drove a TR2, TR3A, Tr4 and TR6 in succession. For the record after many more non-Triumph cars I bought a TR7 in 1978 - it was the first Triumph that I bought brand new and had to get rid of it after three years as it kept conking out when it rained!
The biggest difference between any of these Triumphs was between the TR3A and the TR4. The TR3A felt 'dangerous' on the road and the TR4 felt 'rock solid'. When you think about it there is very little difference between these two models. The main differences being the width of the track and the fact that TR4 had rack and pinnion steering. I am convinced that the latter was the main reason that the TR4 was a pleasure to drive and the TR3A felt very old fashioned and slightly out of control.
Currently, a friend and I are renovating a 1959 TR3A and have already changed the steering to rack and pinion, we have fitted a fast road engine, an up-rated drive shaft and back axle, lowered suspension and up rated springs etc.
I am hoping that these alterations will make this particular TR3A a pleasure to drive in the future. Perhaps there are others out there who have compared the modernised TR3A with the older type and can confirm or deny my theory.
My advice to you would be to buy a car that has these up grades unless you want to own an completely original but wobbly Tr3A.
Regards,
MGT
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No, I'm a physician and an anaesthetist, so I've learnt a lot more basic science, across a wider range than most doctors. Electrochemistry is part of respiratory physiology (acid-base balance).
But the stuff about how conc. is that acid was just internet datamining - Lennox Chemicals is on the net, lists their two types of H3PO4, with a datalist: http://www.lennox.ie/pp/Chemicals_A_to_Z/C...acid_04107.html
John
Ah, we are colleagues. I'm an ophthalmologist and that is why I am careful about recommending goggles for any of these jobs. You'd be surprised the number of people who do not wear eye protection. Last week I removed a large corneal foreign body from a patient who was cutting out rust from an old Rover. He had worn his goggles for most of the job and then subsequently noticed a final piece of rust remaining, did one quick final grind without his goggles and hey presto, got injured. I saw him a few days later and having first removed the metal he was left with a 'rust ring' which took a bit more work. You will be glad to hear that I did not have to resort to phosphoric acid.
Regards,
MGT
Alumimium Brake Drum Problem
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Thank you Ian and Tony,
Ian, I bought the drums in the early 1990s from Tr Bitz - we're involved in a slow restoration process! I suppose it's a bit late to be complaining now. However they are very helpful at TR Bitz and I am sure will offer some advice.
Thanks Tony for your advice obviously you have come across this type of problem before. When you point it out it seems obvious that a lathe is the only sure method of doing a good job. We'll make some enquiries locally.
Thank you both again.
Regards,
Martin.