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TR Man

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  1. Kel, I also cracked the old screen when extracting it but it was slightly shabby anyway, though possibly could have polished up. The new Moss screen is nice and shiny but is definitely a bit smaller and a bit thinner than the old one and I would say that is the main problem and it is barely hanging in there using the Moss seal. I would hate to drive the car at speed without the sidescreens in position. I have just ordered the seal that Stuart has recommended (thank you Stuart) and hope this will make things more secure. Regards, Martin
  2. It's very good of you Menno to go to all the trouble of finding out about this Dzus mirror and posting the photos. I would be very interested in purchasing one of these. The morror is well positioned and yet out of the way. It can be removed very easily and not probably something to be left on while the car is parked somewhere. Nonetheless it is well worth having and I, and I am sure several others, would be very grateful if you would post the seller's contact details if he doesn't mind. I am sure he will do a bit of business. Thanks for going to all this trouble, Menno. Regards, Martin
  3. Yes, Stuart makes a lot of sense about 4 mm door gaps in a long door TR2 because of the extra flexing - I hadn't thought of that. You still can use 3 mm gaps for boot and bonnet. It is a great chance to get everything correct before you re-spray. It's too late afterwards and it would be eternally irritating for you if it doesn't look right after the finish has been completed. Regards, Martin
  4. 4 mm looks too big. I think 3.5 mm is the max any gap on a TR should be. 3 mm looks the nicest.You may have to weld on some metal to get this all around the door. Try and get it too look even all the way around. It is a lot of work but well worth the effort. Under 2.5 mm and you may get rubbing. There is nothing nicer looking than a 'sidescreen' TR with even narrow (3mm) gaps. Purely my personal opinion and not based on 'originality' or anything like that. Martin
  5. Yes, the chrome trim with the badges looks quite acceptable, perhaps even better than the original bumper. However to leave a 3A with bare holes alone makes it look unfinished and slightly ugly, I assume you won't do that. Your six looks magnificent with the towel rail and spoiler - meaty and mean. Very nice nice wheels too! Martin
  6. If this was my car I wouldn't change any of the panels as they look great and there is no rust.Tub looks lovely and straight and has no major dents, and the wings and bonnet also. I got good sills from TR-Bitz and baffle plates from Moss for my 3A and we fixed the B posts by fashioning some steel bought in B & Q. I would give your car a good rust preventive base layer followed by good filling and finishing before a lovely paint job in your favourite colour. It's nice to use your original parts and they are much more solid than the new ones which are over priced big time. Good luck wit
  7. Well done Rodbr. This is excellent, especially the price. Things have become very expensive for TRs when compared with Austin Healeys, MGBs etc. We need a new cut price supplier! Martin
  8. The best think about your car is the fantastic condition of the panels. They look like they have never had a dent. From what I can see the panels gaps are also very good and the bonnet is an almost perfect fit. Amazing really. Well done, it should be a beautiful car when you have finished restoring it. Martin
  9. Dear Raymond, We just started and tuned our reconditioned fast road engine with Weber Carbs last night and the ignition timing was 14 degrees TDC at 1000 revs. This gave a very smooth running engine with an 800 rpm 'tick over' no over-heating, nice exhaust temperatures and no 'funnies' when ignition was turned off. Regards, Martin
  10. No ALDI near me, but LIDL tools are of a high standard and very reasonably priced. German standards most of them. Parkside electric tools are excellent. They sell high quality steel drill bits, for a very low cost. TR Man
  11. Thanks, Stuart & Brian, Didn't know about the ones in the turrets, footwell and the rear of the floor. Regards, Martin
  12. Thanks for the reply, Don. I don't know of the bolts securing the body to the chassis that you describe at the "the far deep end of the footwell". Am I missing somthing here? We have fitted a new floor and there are no holes at the front end of the footwell to fit bolts to the chassis. Can you confirm that there are 8 fixing points for the body to the chassis. Two at the very front, the four outriggers and two at the rear of the car. Regards, Martin
  13. Thanks, Stuart. Good points. I think it is probably best to make sure the pins will be able to slide out easily by using copious copper grease rather than have to lift the body. regards, Martin
  14. Thanks Alec and Brian, Good points and I will go through the previous discussions. Regards, Martin
  15. Thanks for taking the trouble to do all of that, Mike. This info is very helpful. Regards, Martin
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