Paul Carey
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Posts posted by Paul Carey
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Thanks Mark
Yours is the only reply in 10 days or so but very useful.
Paul
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My CP series pump is clearly not the original. It is mounted under the rear nearside wing, behind the wheel. In the last year it has routinely leaked a few drops after being left for a few weeks but this normally clears up after a couple of minutes - today, after a two month standstill over winter it leaked profusely. I think I need to replace it (or at least the seals if I can).
I cannot identify the make of pump but it is a simple cylindrical affair, and looks nothing like the Bosch version shown on the Moss website. It does not look like it comes apart easily but I guess it must somehow (I have not yet taken it off).
Main question: what is the best pump to get as a replacement?
Incidentally the twin filters are inside the boot and badly plumbed in, and I understand I actually have a TR4 tank. Does anyone have a spare TR6 tank from this series they want to sell?
Paul Carey
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Well chaps, I have a spare one (see attached) complete with knob. Sorry for the photo quality!!
I bought it recently in error and it is available for £7 or so. I aid a fiver for it - the balance is just for postage etc.
Paul Carey
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I am looking for a professionally reconditioned gearbox with A type od and switches for my 1970 TR6.
I will part exchange the Triumph 2000 box with J type od.
What would be a fair market price for such a box?
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I think you are referring to a "Surrey" top which at current prices average out at £1500 or thereabouts. Not strictly to fit a 6 as it was originally designed for 4/4a/5s but they actually look pretty good on a 6. They do appear on here and on fleabay now and then.
Stuart.
Thanks Stuart - must be why I saw it in Surrey, but £1500 seems a bit steep for what they are.
Paul
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I'm not sure of the technical term for it but I am looking for a "quarter" (my term) hard top, ie just the back window section that would require a removable soft top panel (rectangular) to complete the roof. I saw one on a 6 in Bletchingley, Surrey and it seems to provide more useful space behind the seats plus some protection from the wind blast.
Does anyone know where I could get one?
Paul Carey
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Paul, the 70 would have had an A type OD installed. Which is best, well they have pluses and minuses but I would say the J type is simpler and more robust. Many of these OD's are physically similar but may have internal or external differences that might need them to be modified, EG the J-Type from a volvo needs several mods to make it work right in a TR6.
Cant quite follow question 3.
The OD interlock switches are on the top cover not on the side. There are other non OD switches on the sides of the tranny, possibly varying by year and between UK and federal cars.
The speedo drive is on the RHS of the OD, ie on the driver side on a UK car. There is normally a right angle drive adapter so that the speedo cable doesnt have to be tortured. I'm sure we can come up with pictures if you need to see what this all looks like.
The J type doent fit on an early frame without some mods as the A type and J type mounts are different. It is not a hard mod to do and there are probably kits.
Stan
Thanks Stan
Q3 - I meant buy, not but!! Where can I buy a good recon box with an A type OD?
Paul
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Mu six is a CP series, 1970 H reg, but fitted with a Triumph 2000 gearbox with A typr OD. However, I want to replace this with an original box. According to the workshop manual TR6 A type ODs were only fitted to CP and CC series.
Questions then:
1 What OD type would this car have ahd originally in 1970?
2 Which type of OD unit is best - A or J? (Incidentally, is an A type OD for a Triumph 2000 that same as an A type for a TR6?)
3 Where is the best place to but well reconditions boxes with ODs? I want to keep to OD in 3 and 4 and have a reverse light switch.
4 On what side of the box cover are the OD switches normally accessed?
5 On what side of the OD is the speedo drive?
Thanks
Paul Carey
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Thanks for all the tips Gents. I don't think I will bypass the gear switches!
BTW my TR6 is a CP series H reg (1970). However, I am told the gearbox is from a Triumph 2000 which had the saem ratiosn and more or less the same dimensions. The last restorer (several owners before me) bothced it in somehow. The OD looks to be J type (as shown in the TR6 workshop manual). The wiring generally was not well done and crawls all over the car - some original, some new.
When I first took the car out this year I noticed for the first time that the OD was jumping in and out, and lately there was an arcing sound coming from under the car when the OD was on (see earlier topic). Hence the inspection and the disconnection of the solenoid feed.
Under the car the feed to the solenoid seems to be in the original coloured wire. The wires from the gear box switches confused me and did not appear to correspond with the wiring diagram with at least one connector being sealed off with insulating tape.
I will get to the top of the box and try to fix them back on correctly!
Paul Carey
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Has anyone ever condiered bypassing the 3rd/4th gear switch in the overdrive relay feed circuit so that overdirve can be used in all four gears?
Is this a wise thing to do?
Paul Carey
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I was told by Enginuity some time ago that my TR6 (restored by a previous owner) actually had the gearbox from a Triumph 2000. This is a bit of a bodge fit but it is nevertheless there, having the same ratios as the TR6 box, and after four years of ownership has so far been problem free.
After the normal winter garage period the overdrive is now not staying engaged. When it is turned on, but not engaged, I can hear a "chatter" like a circuit arcing across a gap, at quite high frequency.
I have yet to look underneath - it may just be dirty connections on to the soleniod.
Being a Triumph 2000 box I do not know if the overdrive is A, J or another type. Can anyone offer any views on the likely cause? The problem was definitely not there as late as October last year when the car was put away for the winter.
Paul Carey
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The paint on my TR6 seems rather brittle and has several small "holes" in it where stones have chipped it. Most are just a millimetre or so across.
What is the best way of hiding these without making it look like the surface of the moon? I have about 6 or so in various locations, including the bonnet which look obvious.
Paul Carey
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The offside rear quarter light window of my hood has become detached from the canvas. It's simply the joint between the two different materials that has failed; not the window itself. I suspect it was a poor joint in the first place but the warranty is well expired.
Does anyone know where I can get this repaired? I do not know the original manufacturer. I hardly ever have the hood up so it is not a big issue, but if I ever get caught in the rain..........
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The nuts are definitely chromed steel. It looks as if I am getting about just over a diameter's worth of thread purchase (8/9 threads/turns) so I think I have enough.
The main problem is to find replacements with the correct (17mm) bush diamter. Any ideas guys?
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When I bought my TR6 two years ago it came with just four Minilite wheels (one in each corner) and no spare. I bought what looked like an identical spare from Moss only to find later that the internal diameter of the four holes for the wheel nuts was slightly smaller than the four wheels the car came with; the Moss holes are about 16mm whereas the car's original wheels have a 17mm hole. I do not know wher ethese original Minilites came from. The man from Moss said theirs were the "standard" ones!
Recently, a kind man from ATS Crowborough overtightened the nuts after a wheel balancing and stripped the threads of my original nuts which I now have to replace (I've done the studs). I can't just use the slightly smaller Moss supplied nuts otherwise the wheels won't centre on the hub (it relies on a close fit between the nuts and the wheel holes to centre).
Question 1: does anyone know where I can get 17mm dia bush wheel nuts? (See photo)
Question 2: what torque setting should be used on wheel nuts - the man from ATS used 60 lbft which clearly was too much.
Paul Carey
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I recently changed my discs for cross drilled with green stuff brake pads and the improvement was significant. I wasn't doing it for any racy reason; just that the car stopped very slowly before. I would not bother with plain discs again, skimmed or not.
Paul
Mark,Did you read the recent post here pointed to a site with an article by Caroll Smith on brakes?
He was most doubtful of there be any advantage in skimming.
John
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I've fitted polyurethane bushes to the upper suspensions arms (they were rubber). Is it necessary to fit polyurethane bushes to the lower arms too or could they be kept as rubber? They look ok and it's a hassle to replace them right now.
CP Series fuel pump
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks Ivor
I will contact Prestige - as it happens the leak seemed to cure itself (again) so I suspect it is just dry seals expanding as they get wet (the car was still for 2 months).
Do you have twin filters on yours?
Paul