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mafield

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Posts posted by mafield

  1. Do you know if there is ANY availability, or chance of getting an original washer rocker switch (148418) - without being robbed!!

    I note that Moss & Co, and others quote a switch p.n. 158452 - is this a direct replacement, does it fit...  I note the bezel is also not black, so would have to be painted before fitting, or will it mount into the original?

    Thanks.

    Michael F.

  2. Today, after queuing for an hour+, I gave up trying to get into Gaydon, and went for a nice drive all around the Cotswolds instead.

    Why was there such an issue in getting in - "be there by 9:30am to display with the Register", I was in the queue at 9:15am and left it around 10:30am - not having reached the entrance. 

     

     

  3. 3 hours ago, stuart said:

    Though if your pedal takeup is almost on the floor it could be the clutch cross shaft pin broken

    Stuart.

    The pedal operates fine, and is in the correct place, but I just find the angle of my foot to the pedal too acute, and it causes cramp in my leg. If the whole pedal assembly were higher off the floor, the angle would be less, and more comfortable.  The pedal operates correctly - full travel, so no issue with the car as such - just my leg.  If I could actually make the point of contact between my foot and the pedal rubber a couple of inches higher off the floor, it would be fine.

    The alternative is making it lighter in use - hence the servo query.

     

  4. Has anyone fitted, or know of any form of servo to fit and assist the clutch pedal.

    I find I get cramp, especially in heavy traffic or town driving, and it's almost as if the clutch pedal is too close to the floor.

    I understand that carpeting with underfelt underneath doesn't help - but even a higher pedal would also help, so any resolves would be considered.

    Michael F.

  5. Thanks for your advice. Yes it is RHD. I have not pulled back the gaiter yet, to see if the ball joint is the culprit, or if it is indeed within the rack itself. I assume, if the ball joint is the fault, it is not adjustable, but is replaceable, and can probably be done in place, without removing the steering rack.

  6. Try again, as I posted yesterday, and it has disappeared.

     

    A couple of days ago I discovered there was for and aft movement on the front nearside wheel, which is not the bearing, as the steering rod moves a little, too.

     

    The offside is fine. I initially thought it was wear in the ball swivel joint, but now think it may be inside the rack itself, and looking probably at either having my own rack refurbished, buying an exchange refurbished rack, or buying a new one.

    I have purchased new track rod ends from Amsteer, nr Birmingham, as I have been recommended to use these (better quality), but what about the rack?

     

    Any advice, recommendations, gratefully received.

     

    Michael.

     

     

    Hope this post doesn't disappear with the updates going on!

     

  7. It is such a shame when threads get locked, due to the few being unable to contain themselves from either personal abusive and rude comments, or trying to deride, devalue or undermine the topic in question.

     

    It then means that a genuine query on the topic from a possibly new member cannot be posted - an opportunity missed, and caused by the few.

     

    Let's hope this one doesn't go that way too!

  8. Well, while in the shower this morning, I have a missed personal call from a David Morgan from the DVLA, wanting a call back as soon as convenient!

     

    Updates later....

     

     

    UPDATE: The DVLA has supplied me with the information I requested - there are 17 taxed fake TR5's and 12 Sorn'd fake TR5's - 'fake' defined by the commission number/vin number NOT starting with CP. He is also going to send me the email address of the Vehicle Policy Group for Registrations, and asked that our Registrar write in to them. I also pointed out the issue with modified vehicles and the new MOT regulations, of which he took interest too.

  9. Isn't the rarity component of value what this kerfuffle is all about? Price paid for a genuine car and value appreciation thereafter warrant some jealousy where pedigree is concerned. Otherwise, they're all Triumphs originating from the same factory with the overwhelming majority of bits in common.

     

    I think after a decade or so the differences between '250s and '5s won't amount to much, and attempts to confuse prospective buyers will backfire. Ultimately, neither will be considered fast or sporting so much as vintage.

     

    Cheers,

    Tom

    It's not just about the monetary values.

     

    There were a very limited number of UK TR5's built, and only the survivors of the original builds, whether a total rebuild, sympathetic overhauls, or fully originals, should be registered on V5c documents, as TR5's - to protect the marque.

     

    I am waiting for an answer for Freedom Of Information request to the DVLA, who have turned it down once so I have appealed, to know how many V5c's have been issued as a Triumph TR5, when the commission number does not start with CP.

     

    It was initially turned down on the pretence that it could result in criminal activity, and I have blown that apart.

    How requesting just the number that have been issued (I didn't ask for the commission numbers themselves) can equate to criminal activity, I don't know. If they turn it down again, I shall go to the I.C.O.

     

    The DVLA are themselves treading on dodgy ground, by allowing a modified car to be re-registered as a TR5 when it isn't. The new regulations for MOT's allows 40 year old cars to 'opt-out' provided they are not modified from original spec. There are exceptions, but only those that don't alter the characteristic of the car. Changing to a Pi system and increasing the power output considerably, would'nt be exempt in my opinion, thus creating double standards and conflict between the DVLA and the MOT Regs.

    The DVLA are chewing on this info, right now!

     

    I also have the FBHVC looking into this, on my request, too.

  10. We all know that a genuine TR5 has the greater value, and that some unscrupulous sales persons (individuals or businesses) are benefitting from selling non-original 5's to unknowing purchasers, but this is not the only issues.

     

    We are all aware that there were 1161 UK RHD Triumph TR5's built, and it is the number of survivors from this build number that needs protecting.

    However a car reaches it's current age, be it through a total rebuild, a multitude of sympathetic overhauls, or an original, it will still be what it started life as, and not a different model. If there are say 300 survivors of the original built, then that is how many there should be registered, not 400+.

     

    As in many other makes and models of cars, the main priority is to protect the marque, and that value is not just monetary. I expect the same feelings exist with regard to owners of Lotus Cortina's, Escort Mexico's, Mini Cooper 's', and many, many others.

     

    The reasoning is not complicated, as some others wish to make out. If it started life as an X model, then it should remain an X, and not be called a Y. If the original commission number is for a TR250 or whatever, then that is what it should remain.

    By all means fit Pi to a 250, make whatever other alterations you like, but it remains a 250.

     

    Another issue is with the new MOT regulations, which while a car over 40 years old can 'opt-out' of MOT's, a reasonably modified car cannot, until at least 30 years from when these mod's were carried out. If a model is changed by way of such mod's, and the DVLA allow it to be registered as the car it is imitating, then they are condoning dual standards by allowing modified vehicles to be accepted for exemption, when they shouldn't be.

     

    If you don't agree, well that is your opinion, which you're entitled to.

  11. There are now 4, yes FOUR cars just on Car & Classic being touted as TR5's, that started life as a TR250 (one being a TR4/TR4a from Greece)

     

    Isn't it about time the TR Register started taking a PRO_ACTIVE role in trying to stop this, for the protection of the marque, and to gain some credibility in representing it's members, particularly the TR5 owners, otherwise we will end up with more rogue TR5's than original ones.

     

    So far, no one with any clout seems to 'care' about these 'fake' TR5's, except just a few TR5 owners themselves.

     

    The one quoted above...

     

    The one in the other thread FND 205F

     

    https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C537478

     

    https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C534621

     

    Michael.

  12. About 2 years i was asked to check this car out at a south coast TR dealer/garage.When walking upto the car i said i think i know this vehicle is it not a TR250 converted to rh drive TR6 Pi [ not 5 ] and was openly told well yes but it is all original panels no repro,and i bet it is more 5 than most out there. Lets say we didn't agree. What was also disturbing was that he said that if it was not sold by the end of the week it was going to another TR specialist to be sold on commission basis .It was also said that is why i am only asking £40000 and not top TR5 money.

    I was upset by the fact that they are both trusted TR specialists.Or is it were.

    I like 250's as much as 5's and have both but a 250 on injection is not a 5 and a 5 on carbs is not a 250

     

    Roy

     

    Why don't you name them, so we are all aware.

    If so called TR Specialists are also touting cars that are not what their made out to be, there is no hope for the individual!

     

    Michael.

  13. I expect the only way to prove its identity is to check its com numbers with Roger Ferris who is the TR 5 Registrar.

     

    CP xxx is TR5 CD xxx is TR250

     

    Surely the buyer would check it out before coughing up nearly £ 43K

     

    Rex

     

    That would depend if the buyer was aware. I wasn't when I purchased my 5, although it did come through a TR specialist, so would expect all to be correct.

    I would have soon known after applying for the Heritage Certificate.

  14. Extremely interesting picture story of the rebuild Bill, I have enjoyed following it. I see you got your tank from Andy Wiltshire in the end. I went for the largest one, 54 litres, which made it very tight for the prv and hoses, but my bosch pump is in the wheelarch. I don't think my spare would fit in the position yours is in!

    I am looking for a petrol smell in the boot, had everything out (except the tank itself) which is under 2 years old and I'm sure is fine, but cannot locate any leaks or weeps anywhere. Even left the pump running for 1/2 hour so it was circulating, nothing! All new petrol hoses were fitted in and around the boot with the new tank, so at a loss where it is coming from, unless it is 'breathing' through the filler!

  15. I'm confused! If the battery turned the engine over to start it, it couldn't be that flat, unless your compressions are almost non existant. Also if the problem persisted with the engine running, the output from the alternator would have brought the volts up anyhow!

  16. I have had Evans Coolant in my car for over 2 years, and have no problems with running hot, or it running on. I tend to stick with Shell V-Power, and as I think the head is still for leaded fuel, (I've never changed it), I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus as well. Mine runs fine.

     

    Michael

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