Colin Fairhurst
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Posts posted by Colin Fairhurst
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If it is a four cylinder engine check the three bolts that hold the dynamo bracket onto the engine block. These go right through to the inside of the engine.
An oil leak from these can be very misleading and run down onto the dynamo and drip onto the exhaust.
Regards, Colin
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I have recently fitted two "New Old Stock" SU HIF6 carbs. (Rover V8) to my TR2 which has a TR3 engine with high port head together with the TR4a manifold.
I changed the needles for richer ones and I changed the dash-pot springs for the lighter 4.5oz. The air filters are for the classic Mini with single HS6/44. I am very pleased with the result.
Regards, Colin
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A few years ago someone on the forum asked how to go about spraying a car with cellulose. At that time I was just about going to spray my wife's Spitfire which I had rebuilt etc.
Stuart gave an excellent step by step layer by layer (I think it was 9 layers altogether) guide which I followed and achieved very good results. I didn't need to 'T' cut afterwards.
Perhaps yuo could ask Stuart to do it again.
Colin
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This is driving me crazy. I have been stranded so many times outside my local pub that they have started keeping a pint of my favourite ale behind the bar. My 1955 TR2 is pretty standard except for a TR4 starter motor and oversize "liners".The engine was restored some 12 years ago when a new coil, points and condenser were fitted. SU carbs also new then. She starts well when cold but if you park her when the engine is hot......no chance until she has cooled down about an hour later. Things I have checked are: Carbs correctly set up and fuel in the fuel chambers. Sediment bowl, spark plugs (quite sooty), battery good, good spark at plugs, valve clearances, points. choke linkage and operation. Priming lever on fuel pump fills up sediment bowl......which is always full of fuel. I have tried various starting techniques and with the accelerator pedal to the floor the engine "catches" occasionally....but will not start until cool again.
I feel some members must have experienced this....please help if you can.
PS: I have noticed two spring loaded, brass push buttons on the carbs, one on the float chamber lid and the other at the base of the carb., does anyone know what these are for?
Thank you.
Scott
Hi Scott,
I have experienced this problem on two occasions. The first was with my Triumph Roadster 2000 and the second time was with my TR2 (both with the same basic block and ignition layout). I couldn't even switch off at the petrol station without having to push the car to one side and wait 30 to 40 minutes for it to cool down. I spent two years with the Roadster trying out all kinds of suggestions and listening to various theories about fuel vapour locking (which I think is a much more rare occurrence than is generally claimed) all to no avail. The problem disappeared when I fitted a new coil and mounted it on the inner wing. The old coil was overheating and becoming too weak. When the same problem occurred with the TR2 I did the same thing. I haven't had any trouble since and that was 3 and 6 years ago.
Regards, Colin
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I have a pair of HIF's and have toyed with using them on my TR with the 4A inlet manifold.
Looks like room enough to fit and you will not have to move the heater adaptor on the RH side/ do some tricky plumbing.
A complication I see is that the needle in HIF will be a bias or spring loaded type - Standard SM needles in your carbs use fixed needle so will have to adapt or mess about finding the right needles.
Re routing the choke cable will be another requirement and as I recall the H type choke cable is about 2 inches too short for HS carbs.
The dash pot spring is a bigger diameter - The right weight of spring will be required - equal to the RED/4ozs as fitted standard.
The jets are temperature compensated, It can go go wonky cause rough running. - probably no worse that Strongburps.
Give it a try and let us know.
Peter W
PS PM me and I will scan the relevant pages my 'Tuning S.U. Carburetters' book that covers the HIF in detail.
Thanks for that.
My old TriumphTune catalogue suggests BAB standard, BAE slightly rich and BAM for PlusKit B for the TRs using the later HS6 carbs with biased needles with springs.I was thinking that the same would apply to the HIF carbs.
I am running on RH fixed needles in the H6 carbs at the moment which are quite rich.
The red coloured 2.5 inch diam. dash pot springs listed are 4.5 ozs and are the lightest weight in that range.
Regarding the temperature compensation in the jets, I have in the past replaced the wax capsule with a one P coin on the 1.5 inch SUs and then readjusted the jets. Maybe it is possible to do something similar with the HIFs.
Regards, Colin
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Apart from issues with linkages and air filters will SU HIF 1.75" carbs. fit the TR3 engine or are there dimension problems.
I have carried out various modifications to this engine. At the moment it is running on SU H6 1.75" carbs. I do have a spare later TR4a inlet manifold with the longer runners and I was planning to use this with HS6 carbs then I thought about the possibility of using HIF carbs.
Since posting this thread I have thought of another question with the HIF carbs is will they operate satisfactorily when set at an angle as they would be on the TR3 engine?
Regards, Colin
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I had exactly the same problem with my 1989 Mercedes 300 SL . I found a very slight leak in the return pipe to the tank from a joint between a plastic/rubber pipe and a metal pipe. When the engine was running this joint acted like a venturi and the high velocity of fuel in the pipe was causing air to be drawn in and pressurising the tank. Replacing the broken pipe clip cured the problem.
Colin
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The TR2 front bumper and over-riders are different to the TR3.
Coiln
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Woolies (I & C Woolstenholmes tel: 01778 347347) have stainless steel baby tenax studs ( item No.333 ) which are very similar. I used 10 of these as a temp. measure whilst I had the original brass ones re-chromed and they are still on the car nine years later.
Regards, Colin
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Hi Tom,
I live between Maentwrog and Llan Ffestiniog about 10 miles from Porthmadog.
Regards, Colin
ps. What is a 'high torque, cam?
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Hi Tom,
I have been following the replies to your posts because I will be fitting a fast road camshaft later in the Spring to an engine that I will be rebuilding.
I put a search in for " Saggy" who is another forum member and found some useful information in the replies to his question regarding camshaft timing.
Although I have rebuilt quite a number of engines in the past quite successfully I have never fitted a none standard camshaft and was concerned that the procedure might be different.
Regards, Colin
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Are they not porous and oil soaked?
Colin
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Hi Tom,
I recently received a set of 87mm liners and pistons and rings from the TR Shop and one set of the three sets of rings have a step in one of the outer edges. The instructions showed these to be used for the 2nd ring down with the new liners. I think it would show them as the top rings with worn liners acting as 'step dodgers'.
In the event one of the rings was broken in transit and the replacement ring that they sent had a chamfer on one of the inner edges. I don't know what the chamfer is for. In the end they sorted out a set all the same.
Regards, Colin
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Hi Bill,
As I understand it from reading the MOT tester's monthly magazine, whilst I was waiting for our TR2 to be tested recently, amber brake lights are only illegal on cars after 1960.
The article was refering mainly to imported American cars where this is a common problem.
Regards, Cloin
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Hi Deggers,
I achieved the same result on the TR2 by using a Lucas relay unit from an MGA ( Lucas L 10 I think) mounted under the bonnet on the right hand side just above the horn.
I had to disconnect various bullet connectors and reconnect differently. I used the MG wireing diagram to help.
The question then is do you use amber or red plastic lenses, I have gone to amber.
Regards Colin
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A little bit of topic, but I would like to modifying my TR2's rear lights.
As most of you know, there is a single stop lamp, in the middle of the rear panel (stop + registration plate illumination functions), and I would like to ad a Led or something in each rear side/indcator lens, thus allowing my TR2 to have 3 stop lights.
Any ideas chaps ?
Chris.
Hi Chris,
I have fitted a Lucas L10 relay to B's TR2. This came off an MGA and I think the early MGs used them.
The result is that the indicators come on with centre brake light. In the situation where you are turning right and braking at the same time, for example, the left indicator light comes on with the brakes and the right indicator flashes.
This works very well but there are two issues:-
One is the choice of red or amber lenses and the other is that although I only had to add two extra wires to the wireing circuit (apart from the short tails to the relay) the job involved swapping over quite a number of bullet connectors in the harness under the bonnet completely changing the brake and rear indicator circuits.
The good thing is that everything is reversible.
Regards, Colin
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Hi Jasper,
I think there are very few people who will claim to be an expert on overdrive units even when they may have some experience.
I am not an expert but I have found the TR register "TECHNICALITIES" CD very helpful and also a download of the "Greasy Hands Garage Guide To Rebuilding The Triumph A-Type Overdrive" in which he lists the complete procedure step by step.
In the latter he states that the overdrive manual calls for an end float for the sun gear to rotate freely of 0.014 to 0.020 thou' whereas the later Haynes and Bentley manuals specify 0.008 to 0.014. He says "So I tend to believe the 0.008 to 0.014 spec. in the later manuals.Perhaps a large clearance contributes to the problem of broken planet carrier washers".
I think he may have something there because it is a common problem and may have a common cause.
I don't know if you can replace that broken thrust washer without dissmantleing further. I think that you should definitely replace the thrust washers and check the end float. The broken thrust washer will eventualy brake up completely.
I would dismantle the unit and check the other components and where possible get the uprated version of any parts that you replace.
Hope that helps.
Regards, Colin.
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I presume you are using standard Dot4 fluid. Try pumping the pedal to its firmest and then jam it down and leave overnight.
Stuart.
That's interesting. Please explain why?
Regards, Colin.
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Thanks for that Clive. I have saved the attachment for future reference.
Regards, Colin.
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Hi Stan
I had exactly the same trouble as you with the cracked glass. What I did was to remove the offending Tenax fastener and file a smidgen off the length and left the others alone, The car has since done a 2895 mile round trip to Le Mans with the hood up to keep the sun off of us during the 4 day drive there and back and no trouble with the Tenaxes.
Colin: How come you have a curved screen? my replacement one is still flat as before so no need to bend the frame which sounds a bit iffy to me.
As I understand it the very early TR2s or may be only the prototypes had flat screens which the works found would crack when they carried out high speed testing. Apparently the wind pressure bent the frame back. The solution was to make the screen curved out about 3/4 inch and fit a little bracket carrying a rubber buffer inside at the centre using the mirror fixings.
The problem that I had with the new glass was/is that it is very very slightly curved from top to bottom as well and the original straight rigid blades will only wipe the centre portion of the glass hence the three part flexible spoon fit blades.
Regards, Colin.
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I think I have answered my question.
I put a meter across the 4 terminals W1 and W2 also C2 and C3. There was continuity across both. I now assume that this is a normally closed relay and so I cannot use it.
What could it have been used for ?
cheers
Steve
Yes I bought a 6RA relay from an autojumble stall and found that it switches off when energised and I would like to know what it could be used for.
Colin.
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Hi Stan,
I have fitted a new windscreen to a TR2 using the Moss seal that did go all around the glass.
I found that the new glass was not the same shape as the original glass to the extent that eventually I had to purchase a set of wiper blades that are designed for a curved windscreen because the rigid straight blades would only wipe the glass where they touched.
I recommend that you try the fit of the new glass in the frame "dry" without the seal and if necessary bend by hand the frame to fit the glass so that when you fit the glass with the rubber seal there will not be any stresses on the glass.
I also found that there were small gaps in the bottom corners which I sealed with mastic.
Some of the reproduction rubber seals are thicker than the original ones and they can cause all sorts of problems which often end up with the new glass being damaged.
I don'nt know anything about the later windscreen brackets.
Regards, Colin.
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If it helps at all I presume you mean extracting them from the cross car tie rod. I used a series of sockets in the vice to press it out. One side it left the steel tube and the rubber behind which was removed by cutting slots in the steel part of the bush and then pressing out. Care needed not to cut into tie rod holes, clean and press fit "new nylon bushes".
It may be as in my case that the steering arm on the steering box and the idler arm both need replaced to get a good interference fit. Mine were both worn either being slack, or butchered.
Drop me a line if you want photos.
Hope this helps.
Rod
Hi Rod, Were can I get the nylon bushes from and do they come with the pins? What is the setup?
Regards, Colin.
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Hi Jim,
That hole acts as an air vent when you are pumping grease in through the grease nipple and it eventualy lets out excess grease.
Rusty water coming out means that the gland seal is not doing its job and can mean that the gland seating which is machined into the cast iron housing is corroded.In the long run you may be better replacing the pump which is what I did recently. I found that the later replacement pumps have sealed for life bearings (I don't know who's life) with no grease nipple, however, both types are available.
Regards, Colin.
North Wales Early May
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi Everybody,
I am a 75 year old Lancashire lad and I have lived in North Wales in the Vale of Ffestiniog for the last 16 years. In that time my wife and I have met some of the nicest people ever. From my window I can see areas that would be inundated with visitors if they were in the Lake District. Peter is correct when he says that Wales would be spoiled by too many visitors.
On Sunday mornings we can drive on some fabulous roads locally and not see another car for 30 minutes or more.
As regards the various narrow railway systems, It seems to me that it is generally the English that have taken them over and very often have ridden rough-shod over the local people and their properties.
I can, from my experience here, certainly see Tom's point of view.
A good example is that if any English person miss-pronounced the name of a French town of Province they would be ridiculed mercilessly yet they quite happily (and in some cases deliberately) miss-pronounce the names of Welsh places as though it is their right to do so.
Wales should be given the respect that it is entitled to.
Regards, Colin