Colin Fairhurst
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Posts posted by Colin Fairhurst
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Hi Peter,
Thanks for the information. I'll put my thinking cap on.
Regards, Colin
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For axle sideways location I made up some big thick bronze washers to sit either side of the front spring eye. Revington does a kit that works fine https://www.revingto...r-springs-tr2-4
I located the rear of the spring with solid nylatron bushes from Triumph Tune TT30765 https://www.moss-eur...on-tt30765.html
Racetorations do a Watts linkage to locate the axle but that must be for very serious racers, I am assured it works exceptionally well.
http://www.racetorat...inkage-kit-p873
Alternatively - you could always remove the rear axle 5 link and watts linkage location system on the Rover SD1 and adapt it to your TR ..... The axle is a sort of TR7 5 speed unit.
Peter W
My point was not so much to do with reducing sideways movement of the rear leaf spring, which is what those washers and bushes do, but to prevent the spring from loading up laterally ( sideways ) which can be dangerous.
Regards, Colin
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I would have thought that a list of various applications of common parts could be more useful these days with the internet and ebay.
I just did a search for Commer 15 cwt brake shoes and a set of Ferodo shoes came up that look very similar to the early TR2 rear shoes and are reasonably priced.
Regards, Colin
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Only teasing Colin
Mick Richards
Yes I know and I think you are probably quite correct with your various comments.
Regarding my earlier post mentioning the possibility of fitting some kind of 'Panhard Rod' to the rear, it was my response to my son expressing concern (he does have an honours degree in motor vehicle suspension design and these are my words not his) about the lateral forces on bends loading up the leaf springs in a way which they are not designed for and if the tyre grip changes at some point in the bend the reaction is like a catapult causing the axle to break away.
Regards, Colin
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Aaaahhhh that would be because you are still using the skills required to drive a car and not trying to fit an anti roll bar to the front.
Mick Richards
That hurts.
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Hi Tom,
Our local car club will be at Beaumaris tomorrow on the 'Green' by the pier. There is usually a good turnout. We will be there in the Roadster.
Regards, Colin
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I have just sent a set of 'New Old Stock' (1960s) 9" rear brake shoes for the Lockheed system to a TRR Forum Reg. User in the Netherlands.
When I was packaging them I noticed a label on the box stating various vehicles that they were suitable for as follows:-
Commer 15 cwt F/C range 1960 on
Triumph TR2 1953/55 (up to TS 5442 March)
Hillman Minx 1959/63 F&R
Minx 1600 Mk V 1963/65 Rear
Super Minx Mk 1 1961/62 Front & rear
Super Minx Mk11 & 111 Oct 1962/65 Rear
Humber Hawk 1948/May 1954 Front and Rear
Sceptre 1963/65 Rear
Saab 93, 95, 96 1958/Mid 64 Front
Singer, Hunter, Gazelle, Vogue 1954/63 Front and rear
Gazelle & Vogue 63/65 Rear
Sunbeam Rapier Mk1 1955/58 58/65 Rear
Price 75 shillings. Based on tradesmen's wages at the time that would be more like £75 today.
I thought that this information may be useful to anybody trying to find these parts.
Regards, Colin
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Hi Rob,
I think it is Ewan who gaga.
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Obviously I was not quick enough. Someone has moved in before me and the Panhard Torque Bar is sold.
Colin
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Hi Tony,
Don't worry.
I have done exactly the same thing but fortunately I discovered the fault fairly quickly when I accidently pulled the wire to the coil out of its insulation.
Regards, Colin
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Hi,
I am in the process of fitting a front anti-roll bar to my TR2 and it occured to me that it may be a good idea to fabricate and fit a simple type of Panhard Rod to the rear.
I would appreciate any constructive comments regarding this.
I am more concerned with good handling and safety rather than track use.
Regards, Colin
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May i ask why neither of you are bidding?
Tom
I think it is quite obvious.
Colin
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Hi Stuart,
Thanks for that.
I get the impression that he lives in Hawaii and doesn't want to pay the shipping costs.
regards, Colin
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I have got a set of 9" brake shoes for the TR2 "Lockheed" axle. They are branded " Telemite" replacement shoes. I bought them in the 1980s by mistake when I started the rebuild of my TR2 not realising that it had 10" drums all round.
Can anyone advise me what price I should ask for them before I put them on BST?
Regards, Colin
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Hi Rod,
I have got two Lockheed axles and the pinion nuts take a 1 1/8" AF socket.
Regards, Colin
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Thanks for the information. I think my question has been answered.
Rob, I think that's the direction I will go eventually.
Regards, Colin
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Hi Rob,
I was aware of the different part numbers and the TR4a outer ball joints are very different to the TR2 because the TR4a has rack and pinion.
I was thinking that if the actual taper was the same then with my particular set-up the TR4a steering arms could be an improvement.
Regards, Colin
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Can anyone tell me is the taper on the TR4a outer ball joints on the steering different to the ones on the TR2/3a?
If so then the steering arms are obviously not interchangeable
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Regards, Colin
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Hi Stuart,
Thanks for that, I was hoping you might respond. I have seen Lyn Paints on line, I will give them a call.
I don't think I need to add further comments about using 2K paint other than I can see its advantages although I think cellulose can have a nicer finish.
If I was doing a complete body shell spray job again, inside and out, I would seriously consider buying the necessary equipment for 2k paint.
A few years ago you posted a detailed process for spraying body panels in cellulose and I copied it down and followed that procedure when giving the body shell of my wife's Spitfire a complete re-spray and it still looks great.
Regards, Colin
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I am looking to buy about 5 litres of Signal Red (code 32) cellulose paint.
I can buy it from the TSSC club shop for £32 per litre. I can also buy it on line (British Standard and RAL spec.) at £82.50 for 5 litres.
This is a big difference.
I want the best quality paint but not to pay over the odds without good reason.
Can anyone please advise.
Regards, Colin
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Thanks everybody for your responses so far. It sounds encouraging for the TR Shop stainless steel set.
Tim. I understand what you are saying but I personally prefer to have the bumpers fitted. Although they look a bit basic they are within the character of the car.
I was wondering what the situation is with the law and the insurance regarding running without the bumpers.
Regards, Colin
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I need a TR2 front bumper to replace my badly damaged one.
I can't decide whether to buy a chromed steel one or a stainless steel one.
I know that there has been a lot of discussion about S/S bumpers in the past but The TR Shop are offering a complete set of TR2 stainless steel bumpers for £445.00. They say that they are "high grade (304/1.4301) stainless steel, approx. 20% of the steel is pure chrome".
I have heard that the chrome plating on the chromed steel ones is of doubtful quality.
I would appreciate any views on this to help me to decide.
Regards, Colin
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Hi Richard,
Should that rebound bracket part number be 106844?
If so I may have one spare.
Regards, Colin
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Thanks Stuart.
I am fitting a later "Girling" axle which came with 9" brake back-plates. I have fitted new bearings and seals to the hubs and the diff. and have purchased new 9" drums, shoes (1 3/4"wide), Wheel cylinders, springs etc.
Regarding front to rear brake balance, whilst googling I came across an American article written by someone who seemed to know what he was talking about. He was saying that (these are my words) fitting a brake servo would have the affect of reducing the foot pressure required for the brakes but would not increase the efficiency of the rear drum brakes but on the other hand would, because of the design, increase the efficiency of the disc brakes at the front. This would help to maintain the balance even with 10" rear drums.
I thought it was food for thought and I would be interested in what others might think.
Regards, Colin
Cylinder head crack
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
That looks to be a good buy.
I suppose it depends on how far you are from it and how far you are prepared to travel.
Regards, Colin