RobinTR6
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Posts posted by RobinTR6
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I've gone from standard, which in my view are too soft for our roads and speed bumps, to uprated but standard length. Ride is better, no bottoming out on potholes and speed bumps, and comfortable on long runs. Ive had lowered but found them a bit uncomfortable and not suited to my local potholed roads so what I've now got is a good compromise.
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Been here recently, I did as book suggested. When refitting the plates in the bonnet that the bolts go thru give some adjustment. So, grill off, rest the bonnet in place9yes youll be needing a helper) , lock down at the bulkhead as normal and then fiddle with fitting at the fron end (bolts in but not tight) until fit is acceptable, then do up bonnet bolts at hinges.
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Could be some dirt drawn trought from tank, now moved ! You could check petrol filter(s). Ocassionally an injector may get an air lock that then subsequently clears, happens from time to time but not really a problem.
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Same problem cured with spring assistance at lever arm, co spring on cable wire between lever arm and outer cable, used small washer at outer cable end to stop spring riding up it, pence.
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Outstanding what a great result. Doesnt sound like a joy rider nor pro ready to export to Europe tho. But all the same well done and look after her, both the finder and the car.
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Hi Niall , tried standard ones from the usual suspects, ceramic ones from Moss, and even tried old school NOS with asbestos, although these were best still not as good as the Mintex. The bite and feel from them inspires confidence rather than the ' well it's an old car, without the benefit of big calipers all round and a more powerful servo'. My braking system is all new so I knew it wasn't that.
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I have thought about this as my new calipers and brake setup seemed to lack bite although they obviously worked properely. Finally bit the bullit and invested in some Mintex 1144 pads....what a difference, better feel, better bite , better brakes. They are more than good enough now, cost abou t£50.
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Cripes, when was it filmed, a decent TR6 with no rust for £6k and sold for £8.5, must be the good old days. Interesting to note that fitting a Bosch pump was not detailed nor the faffing about to bleed the system afterward. Nice to see a TR tho as a featured classic.
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Darren, hi, the bezels should come off , guess how I know. However I think the chrome works well with a dark dash and the black with a light dash. Must confess to rather limited g the magnolia hobbies that are out there. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Dane, wiring is as it should be so not that. The rod doesn't move much from memory so sounds like something else. Did the OD work before and any symptoms before it stopped.
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They did mine, uprated by 25%, car already had stronger springs, brilliant , handles well, not too hard and no crashing on the dreaded speed bumps as before...and not expensive.
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The red green wire powers the sidelights via the fusebox so sounds like that's all OK. When you switch to the headlights the blue wire from the column swit h powers either the dipped or main beam depending on the floor mounted dip switch. So if you have main beam on then the dip switch is getting power from the column switch. It is the dip switch that controls switching between main dipped not the column switch. There are two wires to dip switch solid blue which is power, and it is this that the dip switch switches between dip and main and a smaller blue white wire which is your flasher, ie when you pull column stalk back this powers the main beam.
Check the dip switch, connect blue wire input from column switch to dip switch directly to the blue white wire on dip switch, this should light main beam. Then connect blue wire directly blue red wire on dip switch, this should light dipped headlights. If they both work, dip, main then it's the dip switch at fault, easy fix not expensive.
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Try this
and its Proptech Ltd, been regularly praised for their shafts...on this forum
Unit 80-81, Hartlebury Trading Estate
Hartlebury
Kidderminster
Worcestershire
DY10 4JB
United Kingdom -
Ummm, yep know what you mean. However think the answer is yes. The bonnet can move a bit side to side as you open or close and so the buffers ensure its centralised and also doesn't catch those new wing tops. You could stick them on, I believe some have done this, not sure what glue they used tho.sure some others will be along with help.
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If it's for a Tr6, get the Spitfire ones and adapt, it's a bit fiddly but not difficult, and they are readily available and cheap. Did mine a while ago without issue.
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Dont think so. Obviously the sway bar is under a bit of tension so you may need to use a jack to push one side up so you can bolt in the link. I assume the central clamps and bushes are ok, may be worth checking and or swapping thes out at the same time. Ther are some upgraded one out there which hold the bar more steadily. I have a standard set up so cant recommend any upgrades.
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Had this myself, measured them using one of those laser temp guns, anyway engine, head, rad etc not overheating but gauge had them very hot, ie 3/4 + on gauge. Anyway changed the new sender for another and problem gone.
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Be aware that the differing models, CP vs CR and age have differing diagrams and probably differing circuits so make sure your viewing the correct one for your model year.
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Barry, done this a couple of times, think those half shafts have to be taken off at the diff. It's only another 8 bolts......suggest you plan to have something to support the diff once undone, it's heavy and a bit of a hand full. Just done steering column bushes accompanied by much......and regular breaks to maintain sanity.
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Peter,
Nuff said
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Catch tank is one route and some remove the blanking plate for the mechanical fuel pump under the dizzy and do a take off there.
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I used the end of a teaspoon, it's wide enough and not Sharp like a screwdriver. Needless to say didn't inform swmbo...
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Nor me !
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I'd probably go for the 'restored' car. Obviously personal taste but the unrestored car will likley need things repaired/refurbished before the restored example. So choice comes down to 'are you happy to do the fettling' .
The original with the 40K over nearly 40 years may well need some fettling once its on the road again. Bushes, PI seals etc , wiring....basically 40 year old components beginning to show their age.
I'm assuming these have all been replaced in 'restored' car and the resto was a proper job addressing all the known areas. If youre not looking for a concours car then Im surprised you cant get a really good one for a lot less than a TR5, unless money isnt material
Front Number plate
in TR6 Forum
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No really. You could fabricate something that is bolted between the bumper and the chassis leg and hang it from there tho.