RobinTR6
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Posts posted by RobinTR6
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First port of call after a lay up would be either ignition electrics ok or injector air lock. If you remove the injector plates, the plates between each pair of injectors, start the car and remove each in turn over a jar or equivalent you should see a regular pulse of petrol hopefully cone shaped light mist. If any don't there's your problem. Fix pms are here as it's a common niggle. Try his first as it's only takes a couple of minutes and report back.
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Neil Ferguson on here will have some.
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FWIW my rebuilt PI TR6 used to overheat in traffic jams in summer (original rad) . After a lot of research I bought a replacement copper rad at Stoneleigh. I then bought a Comex fan (those fitted to Revotec kit) and made my own brackets and wired it up. Well guess what, I've never had to use it, since I put the new rad in, new thermostat and really good flush car has never gone past half way on the gauge and normally runs at about a 1/3 of the way up the gauge. BTW done many miles in the hot weather and sat in numerous summer jams since.
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Conrad, yep saw this, had I known you were to become famous and shake off the reputation of a lord of the land I'd have got your autograph. Well done buddy hope this won't go to your head.. btw has your photo being retouched to highlight your charming demeanor.....
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Think the simple answer is NO. The PI cams have 3 rings or 2 at the end which differentiates them from the carb cams. Sure theres lots of commentary on here somewhere which details the differences. I bought a US spec car and converted to PI, so new PI cam purchased and carb one passed on. Also the CR and CP PI cams are also different again search here should help, the CP cam is more aggressive but lumpier at idle and give a bity more get up and go than the CR cams.
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Rob, sorry no but I did strip and repaint my engine bay. Engine out, rad, wiring, relays, , washer bottle, master cylinders, servo, hydraulic pipes,headlamp bowls, , lots op removed all bolts for front wings. Painted , rubbed down another coat, rubbed down about 5/6 times, then polished. Basically it was pretty long winded , lots of nooks and crannies and raised surfaces. Not sure how long but I would have thought at least a couple of days for a pro , took me a week....part time.
Sods law says first bit of maintenance, drop a spanner in there and ...chip..
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Cripes never knew that..... After all these years..
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Richard, sorry no pics but:-
- Plug for harnesses front and back are passenger side , about middle of A post, usunally behind the card thats covering the left hand side of passenger footwell
- Cant remember but I think one each side with the wiring for the wipers etc being on the side nearest the driver
- both exit front top of gearbox cover slightly on the drivers side, i.e. not quite in the middle, usunally can be a bit tight (the wiring that is)
Hopefully someone will have pics
Good luck and do inform all how you get on (sun is out....)
Regards
Robin
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Harry, they do look nice, sorry cant help but do let us know if you get some.
Regards
Robin
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Brill well done
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Can't see a saloon seat would fit. Cr seats have headrests and earlier CP seats do not. The mx5 seats do fit and you'll need adapter runners to fit to a tr which are available, TR enterprises i think do them. If you want the correct seats for your car then get some used ones off the net or one of the specialists. Most of what comes up need new foams and maybe covers neither of which is cheap and i personally don't find original seats that comfortable nor supportive. Plenty of stuff on here re by both options.
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I made a small bracket and added it to the floor dip switch, affixed to relays power direct from starter , job done and no cutting and easy to get wire from back of engine bay and it's onthe some side as dip switch.
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Robin, hi, Roger Williams book Original Tr4/5/6 is a good reference as is his book on how to restore a tr. Both useful and both with lots of pictures. I have a workshop manual, the brown bible also very useful and as i have 2 you're welcome to borrow. I'm in Harrow so probably outside you're 20 miles but anyway let me know. My car is a later bodied car but restored to earlier pi spec, you're welcome to inspect. Good luck looks like you've got a proper challenge resto. Happily lots of help and knowledge here, just ask.
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Been there, done that, again with Neil's input, and it works....
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Peter, hi, assume you've checked the fan wiring and switch, switches do pack up and wiring may have come adrift or broken, worth a check. Had quite a few electrical gremlins with fans but not a broken fan (I've had 6 or so Yes and never had a broken fan) worth checking before removal.
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Hi, and welcome, yes this is the site for all your TR needs. Suppose it depends on why you want/need a Heritage certificate. It may be useful to detail the cars original specification and qualify most of its original details. The chassis plate is on the cars body tho so it may have had another chassis, and given its only riveted on its not difficult not to remove and or make another. However if your interested in this detail it's well worth getting one. Good luck with your car and like most on here....ENJOY....
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Hi, when I did mine the research indicated that Triumph used various 'greys' for the wheels and I couldnt get anyone to confirm if there was a current replacement. In the end I took some forum advice and went with Halfords steel wheel paint (grey). Looks fine a bit brighter perhaps than the originals but had to see unless you have the old and new together. Benefits include, its not expensive, readily available, seems top last quite well and very easy to touch up if they get marked....
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Keep looking on eBay, I have bought my last 2 radios, with the old schools 2 knobs at front, think it's din 1 both with FM working for £25 , so has the look and decent reception. No bells and whistles tho although one is stereo. They come up frequently so if that will suffice then happy bidding.
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Jon, welcome good go hear you're enjoying hi your Tr. This is a great place to air views and get advice so you're well placed already.
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I've had a number of 6 s and tried various setups. The best for me, normal road use including speed bumps, is uprated springs but standard height and uprated shocks, standard lever arms at rear (as noted uprated 25%). Much more sure footed, no wallowing and rides potholes and bumps without bottoming out..result.
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Well...oh sage ones...it was the angle drive. Now removed. Chris, decided to remove loosen exhaust, rear box off, rear pipes disconnected, front pipes loose, fiddle about and result got the cable end onto gearbox. What a fag... mind you think it's was easier than stripping out interior to remove gearbox cover to get at the pesky drive.
Speedo odometer hasn't worked for a bit so back to JDO who refurbished in 2 yrs ago, hopefully it will be a cheap fix..
Winter plan is to find a paint man to paint bonnet and boot ,both of which have micro blistering, presumably moisture in paint or gun when done. Have already had some quotes...£2k to do them strikes me as OTT. California body shell so do think there's any rust hiding..
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Same here, Don Hoods, fitted myself with a mate, instructions from here and Roger Williams book How to restore Tr6. Took a day.
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There's the two screws on the front and a bracket on the right hand side , side of choke, that bolts to the metal fastback, nothing on the other side.
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They shouldn't, I believe one of the techniques is to bend the flange which holds the trim to accommodate the door shutting. Trial an error but does work. Stuart is probably the sage on this..hopefully he will proffer an opinion.
Clutch pedal adjustment
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Try bleeding it first. If the clutch is new and bleeding doesn't fix it may be the bolt thru the crossshaft... unfortunately that's a gearbox out job. There are lots of posts on clutch adjustment on here so also do some searches as many posts will help with diagnosis,