littlejim
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Posts posted by littlejim
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I've just put some more Nulon G-70 into the diff and gone on a run to work it in.
Seems to be a bit quieter than before.
Or is the hearing loss getting worse??
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Looks pretty good.
Will be interested in your opinion of it.
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mine is air driven, but they come in handy for the other cars too, not just the TR.
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I'd probably start with my heat gun and scraper, and finish off with solvents, probably finally with acetone if the others didn't work.
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The rear discs might provide a bit more fade resistance than the drums in situations where you are doing a lot of brake applications.
Eg. going down a long windy mountain pass.
Think they dump the heat faster than drums.
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What I find difficult to understand is how the rear brakes fitted with a pressure regulating valve, manage to operate correctly, IE not locking up before the front brakes, when there are so many differing braking operations, again from emergency operation to mild slowing down applications, the range is infinite.
Especially when there is NO direct information / connection between the 2 systems.
It appears so hit and miss.
My own braking systems on 2 none TR cars but with rear engines again are so different.
1 had huge rear callipers and small front callipers.
the other has tiny rear callipers on a 12" disc and 4 pot callipers on 11"discs at the front. with a proportioning valve operating on the front circuit only.
It seems balance bar testing with 2 master cylinders again is a hit or miss affair.
I wish I was smarter!!!!!
The Prado seems to have an 'inertial' mass thingo in the system, that proportions the fluid/pressure going to the rear brakes according to the deceleration force, ie the urgency of the stop.
I thought most dual systems linked brakes diagonally, one front with opposite rear, as against what Graze is doing, all front or all back. The fronts do all the work so the back ones would usually lock up without the proportioning gizmo.
ABS stops any of the wheels from locking up which gives maximum braking possible depending on tyres and the road surface.
But if you are on ice or oil, you'll probably think the blighters aren't doing what your foot told them to do.
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Fitting an electric fan and an electric water pump will liberate a few HP from other tasks.
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Simon,
dunno if it will help your situation, but my diff front seal looked OK. so it went back when I completed the refurb.
On my first long trip, to the coast and back, it gave up the ghost about fifty miles from home and started leaving a trail for the next trip back. (beats bread crumbs hansel!)
After the seal replacement I had a decent whine and was reluctant to do a diff re-adjustment, so I put some Nulon G-70 gearbox and diff treatment in. (fine teflon particles.)
After a while it reduced the grinding noise quite a bit, - still can get a bit of noise on the overrun.
Put more in each time I checked the diff oil level and got better each time. Not perfect, still a bit of overrun noise, but originally it whined all the time.
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With mine the lever positioning 'by the book' didn't get the overdrive to engage.
I had to put it up on jack stands adjust the lever past the 'spot' by hand and then run it to see if it worked.
Finally got good engagement with the lever about 2/3cm (memory, haven't been under to check) above the dimple in the gearbox casing.
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I home sand blasted my bits and am now using them again. (no problems have shown up)
Any metal taken off the surface is pretty minimal and the metal is very thick.
But as most of the above say, if you have any doubts, (I don't) for peace of mind you'll need to replace.
Suspect the coat of POR-15 is stronger than the rust I blasted off.
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there are vinyl/silcone/etc repair kits that allow you to fill the crack and and press a vinyl patterned cloth on to the goop while it sets.
If you have a black dash you are larfing 'cos you can use one of the hardware store silicones.
Did some small cracks in my black dash this way and am happy with the result (looks better than the crack did.0
(However as you know I now wear reading glasses)
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Sorted bob!!
And the info might help some of us if/when we get the same problem.
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Tandy have similar items for radio components and fishing tackle shops do something similar.
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Another possibility is corroded contacts inside the solenoid.
Pete
That was the problem with my outboard engine when it wouldn't start despite the nice click.
Cleaning the insides fixed it up.
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I bought a set from Moss some time ago, work fine.
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Sounds like a fuel supply problem, after you've used up what's in the carby bowls.
Could be a bit of crud in the tank intermittently covering the pipe in the tank, but some of the experts here have also mentioned internal breakdown of the rubber hose that is in various parts of the fuel line, that can restrict flow in demand situations.
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I'd take the radiator to a specialist shop for an overhaul if you haven't already done so.
Despite looking great with the radiator cap off and water sloshing past the opening, mine waspartially clogged up.
Perfect after I got it back.
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Not knowing there were many choices I bought mine from Moss.
Had a bit of fun fitting it, but ended up with a good result.
The hard top fitted OK after the refurb with the original winscreen position.
To fit the new soft top I had to pull the windscreen back as far as I possibly could.
The soft top didn't fit at first. I stretched it in the Canberra summer sun with weights on it, and heated it with my heat gun for the first successful fit. Needed the odd nourishment break to get success.
At first the front bit that goes under the chrome metal "keeper" bit was hard to get in far enough, which made getting the back bolts in a challenge.
However after a few fittings the material stretches a bit# and the process becomes fairly straightforward without any dramas or special stretching needs.
I keep the soft top in the boot during summer for sudden weather changes, but fit the hard top in winter to keep Mrs LJ happy.
# the front section that goes under the chrome strip gradually goes further and further under the strip, as the material flattens with each fitting.
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Echo all of the above.
I bought my 4A as a 'project'. For which it turned out to be perfect, especially the chassis rust under the "T" shirt area.
Unlike many of the forum members I got more fun out of fixing it than I do out of driving it. (The Clyde Mountain hairpin bends excepted.)
I bought it for about $15K. If I sell it I thought I'd go for about $22K or nearest offer.
Suspect that wouldn't cover what I spent on the refurbishment, despite valuing the years of labour at nil.
Echo Don's comments on the great helpful folk on the forum. (Should put a plug in for Moss too, who got me all the bits across the equator in no time at all.)
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Hi Folks,
I'm thinking of getting a new dash board as mine is very tatty - the price is frightening.
You don't lose any points for running the sander over it and putting some satin varnish over the top.
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Interesting information.
Our "state" went from annual 'over the pits' check to no checks other than roadside spot checks, (must save a lot of money).
Compulsory pit check for first time rego in the ACT.
nearby state has inspection done annually by 'registered' private garages.
obviously a lower standard of general car safety, but haven't seen figures indicating that disaster has resulted, despite my predictions.
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My compressor has the following specs: Free air delivery 7.24 cu ft/min
2.2 HP
tank 58L
It works OK on a single phase 240v 10 amp socket.
For the painting I tried to find a gun that used the least amount of air; ended up with the Asturo K1/s, that operates at 57psi.
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I went for the largest compressor which would run on single phase 240V.
Plenty of pauses during the grit blasting.
For painting I eventually found a gun that was specially tuned for low air consumption, few pauses there too.
The welder I bought was made to handle higher current inputs, but for the welding on the 4A didn't have to go above what my fuse (circuit breaker) box could cope with.
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I use a chain hoist. It's very controllable and a lot cheaper than electric.
Moi aussi.
Fuel tank pressure build up
in General TR Technical
Posted
WAG. Anything changed on the exhaust system that could let heat get to the tank or fuel line.