littlejim
-
Content Count
4,342 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by littlejim
-
-
Boating shops are another source, as mentioned in John's post.
-
I did mine (4A) as per original route along steering column, but replaced any dodgy bits with 'desoldering tape' from Tandy or such.
-
Hi LJ,
I had to put the upholstery on hold when I realised that I didn't have a clue how it all went together.
I didn't take enough pics when taking apart.
I'll have a good scrute at the IWE and take many pics.
70th floor - that's near the moon isn't it.
Roger
Feels like late finals in the landing circuit, about 3 ear pops in the lift up and down.
Hoping that Athe stops them running a fire drill while we are here.
-
if you still havesoft top problems, send it over here and I'll stretch it in the sun for you.
My new Moss soft top needed a few hours in the sun with weights on, plus the windscreen unbolted and pulled back with rope winched in, before I could get it on. (Haven't mentioned the weight lifting course I had to do.)
After a few goes the front bit that tucks in under the chrome strip flattened a bit, and pushed in further.
After the eleventy twelfth fitting it isn't all that hard, despite still being a nice tight fit.
(Currently on the 70th floor of the Meriton in Brisbane. Great view, but UK still not visible. However still a great view out of the windows.)
-
water in the petrol you took on board.
Had a similar experience after a fill on the trip from where I bought my TR4A.
-
Have seen the same problem cured by replacement of an old bulb by a new one. Not in a TR tho'.
-
Love happy endings!
-
I thought the rear was the same as the front with 0-1.6mm Toe in?
I chose zero.
Started off with lots more on both sides and marked difference between both sides.(rear)
Cornering was bizarre depending on the sharpness of the curve I went round.
Now behaves nicely and predictably.
-
"Is there a DIY way of checking the the rear toe in?"
I started off using a laser level and tape measure, but found a staightedge and a few bricks an easier proposition.
fair bit of f**ting round with shims on both sides before I got to zero on both sides.
-
I had to wind the nut on the clutch adjuster out a long way to get mine to release properly, after fitting a new clutch plate as part of the refurb.
Got the impression that the new Moss one had more 'meat' on it than the old one.
Vaguely recall I had to use the top hole too, to get a release.
Will get under to check if you request me to.
-
Many years ago fitted a Magnatec to my Merc, Hall effect transducer in the dizzy.
Worked beautifully for several years until the thick cabling fatigued through (unbeknownst to me) from the dizzy movements made under vacuum.
First drawn to my attention early in the descent down the Clyde mountain S bends, when the donk stalled and the power brakes and power steering ceased to work.
Most of the time the electricity jumped the gap, but on full retard it spat the dummy and stayed where it was. (The gap was too big.)
Worth looking inside periodically and rotating the innards to see all is well.
Magnatec sent me a new one for free when I told them about it. It duly worked for about the same time then fatigued through as before.(Went back to points.)
-
My rev counter used to swing violently after the refurb. Mucking around with the path to the firewall I was able to find a position where the wobble disappeared.
Still OK, but maybe I'll need a new cable at some stage. Seemed to prefer long sweeping curves to sharp bends.
-
Over here a mob called Nulon produce a product that contains PTFE that supercedes colloidal graphite.
-
Sounds like there is no problem Ian, just pull the choke all the way out - thats what its for.
Like Rob, I have to start mine with full choke for the first bit. Starts easily.
-
oops!!
I think I'm in TRouble. Sue has just read this thread and asked why I don't want to ask her anymore.
I think I have answered her happily.
Convenience.
Roger
Which one of you is using it?
-
Brother has a pack the size of a multimeter that charges via the cigarette lighter.
Says he has used it to start several times without problems.
-
You can chop a fair bit out and still get an OK result
-
At least one dumb colonial wouldn't have thought of that (no bike punctures up to then).
poor man's version shallow plastic tub+ H2O, left hand blocking lower pipe puff into top pipe with head turned sideways.
Deluxe version second person to watch for bubbles.
Can see why Britain is/was great.
-
Trying hard to work out what the 'seal edges' are that you say are crushed. (fail)
The chassis to body spacers should have kept things a safe distance apart.
But on mine the main rust in the chassis was under the the "T" shirt area, and Moss and others put out reinforcing kits for the chassis round that area for refurbishers.
Do you think you could have a bit of chassis sag somehwere in that region?
-
Got most of my bits from Moss via email and international delivery.
Found the service fantastic and very fast.
Only problem I had was the chrome side strips. They arrived bent to fit in the (short) cardboard tube.
They were replaced for free. Turns out they employ handicapped people in jobs they think they can handle, and my bloke worked out how to fit 5 and a 1/2 feet of strip into a 5 foot tube without having to ask his supervisor.
-
yer a hard man Stuart!
-
If you are talking about feel on the road, the toe in/out of the two rear wheels on the 4A affect it too.
When I first got mine cornering would start off as understeer then snap in to to oversteer, which made it rather exciting on some bends.
After the refurb I kept reshimming the rear suspension arms until I got as close as I could to zero toe in on both sides.
The handling is great now. Neutral to mild understeer.
-
got this bit the right way round? There was a bit of discussion on which way the upper fulcrum should go on when I did mine.
-
Just to cheer you up, when I got rid of the water pump and put a davies-craig electric water pump in, the old belt was too long. Found one that looked OK for the job but when fitted, the "stretch it" rotation of the alternator just described a perfect arc centered round the motor pulley, and limpness was the only result.
Eventually by spacing out the bottom alternator mount about an inch I managed to get an arc of movement that actually tightened the the thing.
Aluminium Tank
in General TR Technical
Posted · Edited by littlejim
Pete,
that sounds good on the basis of logic and I guess mindful of your winter temperatures.
Our winter temperatures in Canberra aren't far removed.
The only problems encountered here have been when the water came in with the petrol from the bowser, from the petrol station tank. (Once in the TR, once in the boat.)
It didn't mix with the petrol, it sat on the bottom of the tank as a separate phase. Suspect condensation is a very minor (?unlikely?) source.
Hopefully in most cases where it is only a small amount, the beaut glass bowl* in the TR fuel circuit catches it, more than that and you'll have a few problems.
(* have fitted a similar item to the boat.) I avoid ethanol containing petrol like the plague.