littlejim
-
Content Count
4,342 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by littlejim
-
-
Mick makes a good point at the start. Some settings have a range where things still work even if perfection has been missed.
One of my non-mechanically minded mates used to drive to work in an Isuzu Bellet.
At each red light the bloke in the traffic lane alongside, would wind down his window and yell out "hey mate your tappets are loose."
After two years of this I think he learnt what a tappet was.
After leaving the Service and going into private practice he solved the problem by buying new Mercs on a regular basis.
-
Some of the terms above have me stonkered. "H frame" 'header sticks' 'pram sticks' 'header rail'??? (You blokes know some big words!)
My soft top came from Moss. My hard top slipped on no problem.
To get the soft top anywhere near fitting I had to pull the windscreen back to maximum rake, which required a rope to hold it while I tighten the rake adjustment bolts.#
I then had to stretch the soft top under the summer sun with weights attached.
getting the new unsquashed material under the chrome bit at the front was a struggle (had to do it in the AM before I lost any strength) and getting the clips on the back equally hard.
After a few goes the front bit squashed down and the whole thing stretched a bit more, fitting is now fairly routine.
Suspect over there cold weather may make it a bit harder in winter.
# the hard top still fitted after the rake adjustment.
-
If it involves a body off refurb of the chassis you'll find all the bits require two garages of space.
The fully assembled car helps keep the world a lot tidier.
-
Drill the Door and fire in a couple of self tappers,Sorted.
Just remembered this site from when I was doing the 4A up..http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/cage_nuts.htm
Niall's already sorted it in a similar fashion.
-
Dunno about the TR wiring but for the boat you have the option of 'copper' wire or 'tinned' wire. The tinned wire has a silver coating and is a lot more resistant to corrosion (esp in the marine environment.)
I inherited my TR loom and have no idea whether it is tinned or not. Any new/additional wiring required I used the 'tinned'.
Have no idea whether it is important on the TR, when I have to do repairs on old untinned wiring I usually find the wire is black (corroded) for some distance from the join or connection, which does not happen with the tinned wire. Usually find to get the black wire to accept solder I have to use hydrochloric acid, the milder fluxes don't seem to improve things much.
-
Google finds them, tho' top of the list were metric.
-
Worked for me on some seized engine bolts.
Dave Connitt's blog put me on to it.
My heat source was a propane/oxy torch turned low.
-
I used the product POR were flogging at the time.
Still there after many blaps in the 4A.
Previous coating was rust.
Grit blasted first.
-
Without thinking I used black paint (POR-15) on the chassis.
Tony Millward (this forum) and Alan Staniforth - "High Speed Low Cost" author, used white, so that they could spot any problem areas more easily later on.
-
I used POR-15 as chassis paint. See Dave Connit's blog
-
That grit blaster looks very familiar!
-
I grit blasted mine at home, section by section, inside a "plastic palace".
This OK if you are retired.
-
Dunno if it is relevant - but.
When I was doing up the 4A one item I had to order from Moss was the metal dress strip(s) that run along the top of the rear guards.
The first set arrived with the last 4 inches folded over to fit into the slightly under length box. So did the second set.
Moss were really good at replacement (no cost) and the third set arrived in different packing and in perfect condition.
Turns out as a public service they employ handicapped people in the packing area, and my bloke used his noodle when he found the strips were too long for the package, and made them the right size to fit.
-
I used the dynamo pulley when I converted mine. *
Worth fitting a heat shield, as many here recommended I should do, it's pretty close to the exhaust.
* because I got rid of the water pump, put in an electric one, I had to alter the fulcrum point that the alternator swings on. At first I wasn't able to tension the belt, it just rotated around the axis of the driving pulley on the donk.
-
Hi LJ,
The stud threads down inside the block are always covered in crud when removed I don't think you will get wax into them.
Also there is a massive heatsink - the wax would set pretty quickly.
Roger
Theory is one thing, doing it sometimes gets a different result to the guru's prediction.
The beauty of it the technique is it is so simple to try, and if it fails you can stil do all the heroic stuff later with no ill effect.
Worked for me.
-
In amongst the other stuff you could try Dave Connitt's suggestion of melting candle wax down the thread.
It worked for me on a couple of reclcitrant studs, - sounds like you've got a ripper though.
Might have to use one of the 'heroic' solutions above if the wax doesn't do the job.
-
You bloke's are good!!
-
If there is enough pressure one side of the air bubble to compress it, then the same pressure must instantly exist on the other side !.
Does this work in brake lines too??
-
I took the wimp's way out, put a steel plate over where the water pump goes, and fitted a Davies-Craig electric water pump.
-
No carpet under mine and it was a very tight fit too.
Think the 'horn' side of the copper mallet was used to help get it in.
-
From memory just about all the bolts on the 4A were UNF. I think there were a couple of UNC somewhere around the gearbox
The Moss cattledog is a very handy reference for TR restorers
-
Stuart might opine as to whether it is worth waiting till a trial fitting of the mudguard, to see whether the 'up' bit matches it.
-
I'd be tempted to spray wd-40 or such round the inlet joints while it is running to see if there is an air leak in the induction system.
-
My first head gasket after the refurbishment blew while I was waiting for the recommended time for a retorque.
retorqued the next one with valve gear off at about half the time and it has been OK ever since (sorry don't have the recommended figures to hand and dinner is ready.)
Reinforcing the diff area on a 4A
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I used the Moss diff reinforcing kit.
Seemed a shame not to do it while the thing was stripped down, and access was so good.