littlejim
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Posts posted by littlejim
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Excuse my colonial iggerance but do you call the 'tin' top a Surrey, or the 'soft' one.
Q2: what do you call the other one. (A Cornwall, Westminster, Sinney etc.?) ( I thort it wuz the soft one - sigh)
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Roger
When you say "some were done in sheet steel", are you talking about the backlight? I know the roof panel was both alloy ( earlyish TR4s ) and steel, but I've never come across a non alloy backlight - if they do exist, was this a ST part or some other manufacturer? Anyone got a photo of a steel one ( the insides)?
Always wondered and this thread seems like a good opportunity to add to the knowledge base in the old brain cells before they are gone for good!
Cheers
Rich
The roof itself is steel for the 4A.*
The 'backwindow' bit is alloy and glass.
* Few pushups now and then in summer helps when the time comes to fit it.
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My 4A came with the rear window, a hard top, and a clapped out Surrey soft top.
The hard top goes on for winter if Mrs LJ is going to be in for a ride.
For the rest of the time the no top, but the new Surrey is in the boot as insurance against sudden downpours. (Usually fairly predictable in Oz, where the predominant weather pattern comes in from the west and we get several days warning, every now and then the rule gets broken and it comes in from the east or north.)
Good idea over there. (rude Oz comment on UK weather deleted.)
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My best 'mystery noise' took several minutes to sort out. There was no correlation to engine speed, braking or gear selected.
Turned out the radio switch had been bumped to just past 'on' and only the loud passages of music were audible as noise!
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I think its how a lot of bolt on performance parts work, after spending the money your convinced things have improved.
I think it's why we have had no offers to do temp readings on ceramic coated manifolds on another thread
Alan
I went through the 'improvement' phase on the Holden wagon I had years ago.
Extractors, electronic ignition etc.
Kept a record of fuel consumption during the process.
Nothing changed consumption wise until I took the mechanical fan off and installed a Davies Craig* electric fan instead. (*Only one on the market then.)
Immediately got an extra 4 MPG.
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The same approach works like a charm in the beauty product and diet enhancement areas!
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Any nearby TR6s you can do a comparison with?
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In the days when racing motorbikes had 'megaphone' exhausts, that sent a shockwave back up the pipe, there was a 'sweetspot' (revs wise) where the negative wave sat at the exhaust valve.
Obviously a WAG, but suspect the exhaust headers are similar, help a bit over a range with less resistance to flow, but at their best in a particular rev band because of the shockwave.
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If you put a dash light in the electric fan circuit you find that the fan is not required when you are moving, air flow does the job.
That saves a bit of power, compared to the always thrashing mechanical one.
Fan comes on when you are stopped or making the donk work hard going up a long, lovely, winding hill.
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blush!
I use oil on mine.
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Just after I bought the Prado, I used the Oz one called Nulon (PTFE), following their recommendations as to amounts used and when. Some of the claims were that it sticks to metal and lasts for ages.
In earlier years we'd heard about cars in the Redex trials, who used the then current oil additive of colloidal graphite, and put in a couple of hundred miles after a holed sump before seizing up.
The Prado has just had its 500,000 Km service this week and the donk# is still going strong. Of course it might have been just as good without the course of Nulon. No way of knowing is there?
But I'm glad that I used it.
The donk in the Mercedes 250 I bought while in the UK years ago was stuffed at about 300,000 Km.
# Quite possible that the metallurgy of the metal Toyota use in their engine cylinders is what gives the longevity.
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I prefer to keep the tin top in the garage ready for winter, and the surrey/soft in the boot for emergencies/sudden storms.
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On the faint chance someone is interested
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Not that much left of the original car then, must have cost a fortune to do!
Stuart.
To me that looks like a fortune to buy it!
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Just MIG-welded a cast iron BBQ plate with the normal steel welding wire, reasonably high setting but not the maximum.
But needed a heat sink at the back of the iron, and did small welds joined up with later with more small welds.
Had a praccy run on an offcut, with no heat sink at back, and got small expansion/contraction(?) cracks on that piece.
Looks like you need the heat sink. Lebro's advice sounds good.
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At some stage it would be worth going underneath and tapping the chassis around the area where the plate is welded to the frame/chassis to check for rust.
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Hi LJ,
your paint may not shine for various reasons. The thickness of the paint may be at the bottom of the list.
I had some 2K aerosols mixed for me and nothing would make it shine. It was as if the shop had left the shine out.
Roger
I also had the experience of, when I ran out of paint about halfway through, learning from the paint man that for the top coat, you used a different thinner to the one used with the primer.
The last batch of paint which I used to touch up a few spots was a slightly lighter shade compared to the earlier batches (sigh).
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A day or so ago had a chat to an MGA owner whose paint job was dazzling, even through the sunnies. Assumed it was two pack.
However he said it was acrylic but he had put seven coats on with plenty of time between coats and waited ages before polishing the top coat.
In my ignorance when I did mine(acrylic for lung safety) I assumed it was like house painting and just put two coats on. Mine doesn't shine.
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On the boat, which goes into a salt water environment, I replaced any non 'tinned' wire with the tinned stuff. Some of the inherited wires were 'black' up to several inches from the joints.
For the black stuff in other situations, I use hydrochloric acid to take the crud off when the gentler fluxes fail to do the job.
Not a fan of crimps, on the Prado most have failed after a number of years due to corrosion.
But if it works for you go for it.
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Why does the width of the belt affect how long the belt or pulley lasts??
"Electric fan not an option - traditionalist."
The width of the belt of course should have no effect on longevity of the pulley, but the original wide belt is very stiff and may need excessive tension. Fexible wide belts are available which perform just as well as the narrow ones.
An electric fan can be concealed on the front side of the radiator if you use a pusher configuration. Hardly visible through the grille.
I skipped the narrow belt bit, remember now the gap at the bottom to the chassis makes it hard/impossible to get out/in as has been described. Put in the electric fan.
Went the whole hog and got rid of the water pump and put in an electric water pump.
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Why does the width of the belt affect how long the belt or pulley lasts??
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You can turn the donk (plugs out) with a spanner on the main pulley nut.
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That's disgraceful!
You are supposed to wear a robber's cap (the funny hat would do) instead of doing bodges like that.
Soft top in the boot ready for wet times.
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I'm with LJ. What does a TR4 brolly look like?
Rgds Ian
The 'poppers' also have me intrigued over here they are a fishing lure.
Front Suspension
in TR6 Forum
Posted
The rear suspension looks similar the the 4A.
My rear wheels were inherited with differing amounts of toe in on each side, this produced some interesting (bad) behavior on sharp bends.
During the refurb I played around with the shims on both sides until I had zero toe in on both sides and the behavior in corners became neutral.
Possible relevance to your situation??