littlejim
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Posts posted by littlejim
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Hope not too late, but you might consider Dave Connitt's idea of putting a coiling coil in the air circuit to make sure you get rid of as much moisture from the air to the paint gun as possible.
The picture is of my set-up.
In Ohio's winter, Dave put ice cubes in the box with the coiling coil inside. I just used water, as the canberra climate isn't as extreme. The coiling coil is before the second filter.
PS: water does gather in the second filter. Empty before each spray gun full.
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I'm with Tom.
After my refurbishment I was waiting for 1000kms to retorque the head, when the gasket blew at several 100 K's
With the next one, I did a few 100K's, then retorqued it (tappets off to get to the head bolts).
It has been good as gold ever since. get in early.
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What colour are you going to paint the inside of the shed?
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At the moment Dave Connitt's TR site is down.
recommend a shoofty at it when it is back on line.
Has quite a few handy hints including a bit on doing your own sand (garnet ) blasting.
Got me into it (garnet blasting) and later the painting bit.
The spot welds on the chassis are a bit hard to find without a bit of blasting first.
As Sean says, the more you do yourself, the more kick you get out of it.
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A good clean, and a bit of araldite is a good way of putting of fthe proper fix you know you should do.
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Thanks Menno,
reassuring to know I'm not the only one baffled by all this clever stuff !!
Cheers
Alec
Me too!
I have no idea what a 1K piv looks like or what I would do with one.
(however can tell a prophylactic odontotomy when I see one.)
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Does the noise disappear when you depress the clutch? I occasionally have a squealing noise that sounds like a fan belt slipping but it disappears when I depress the clutch & when the engine etc warms up. I have been told that it could be a bearing in the gearbox that when cold spins on the shaft making a squealing noise. Living with it at the moment as it is only occasional & soon disappears.
Suspect my hearing loss is sparing me this sort of angst.
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Hi Peter,
not sure what a flammable mixture smells like but I do know what it sounds like - WOOF.
Roger
Recall an aircraft incident where alcohol was being used as the cleaning solvent and getting spilt, and on to clothes etc.
Bod involved had to change tools so unplugged first one from extension cord to plug in new one. Small unnoticed spark, then shortly thereafter noticed pants and legs were burning.
The alcohol flame didn't have enough colour in it for him to realise that a fire had started.
T
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I decided to keep the box wired in after fitting my alternator.
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Out with the black texta.
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Contrary to a lot of the above I took the fan off (useless when you are stopped, which is when the heat builds up) and fitted a davies-craig fan in front of the radiator. (It switches on when you are stopped).
Taking the fan off probably gives you a couple of extra horse power.
I stuck with the wide belt out of iggorance about the benefits(??) of changing it.
I also got rid of the water pump and fitted an electric water pump.(More HP ??)*
Copes OK with the OZ summers and mountain passes.
* only runs full bore when required.
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Looks like a 'pro' job to me!
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Thanks little jim for clarification.
I would have thought there would have been rather more smoke, and this continuous (not just on start up), if caused by a blown head gasket.
But worth a thought, so thanks.
Best Wishes
Ernest
Actually sounds like worn rings/pistons to me.
When you take your foot off the throttle before shut down the vacuum above the piston with the throttle closed is sucking oil past the piston(or valve guides) into the top part of the cylinder.
See it a lot just past the top of hills, when drivers of older cars take their foot off the throttle for the descent.
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Thanks 'littlejim'......cooling system seems fine, but why would it be significant if going down?
Best Wishes
Ernest
One day during a trip to the local shops my Prado was extremely 'smokey' compared to normal. I put it down to the colds winter's day.
When the temperature gauge bent the needle on the top stop it dawned on me that the radiator was now empty, and that I had blown a head gasket, which the radator faithfully tried to supply with fluid.
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All this stuff is new to me, and I haven't a clue if anything like your system exists here (others like Viv will know.)
guess someone wanting an 'historic' car will be keenly interested.
When I bought mine I couldn't have given a rat's about all that stuff I just wanted a 4A that I could fix up, I didn't want it to be historic or to have all the original bits/rust..
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You cannot beat a length of string...................
Or a "straightedge".
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Make sure your radiator water level isn't going down too.
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Can you not just dip the chassis as you would pre-powder coating?
Come on Mark, life wasn't meant to be easy. You have to get to work with the heat gun and scraper.
When you eventually finish you feel pretty good.
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mine's not allowed out after dark.
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Stopping leaks is better than finding a paint that isn't affected by brake fluid, or using a fluid that doesn't eat paint.
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hopefully the welder selling man will mention the different wire sizes and matching tips.
There heaps of references on the web as to which wire size and current to use for different metal thicknesses. You still have to have a test run and tune the welder to get the result you want.
I learnt the hard way that when you change wire reels you put tape over the spool as you wind the last bit out of the machine.
It takes a long time to rewind half a mile of 'sproing' back on to the reel.
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You left him speechless!
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If you are an ace welder already you could probably handle the gasless.
If you are like the rest of us you need the gas one.
Still takes a while to get the hang of it. (wire thickness, wire speed, current setting, gas flow, angle etc.)
Once the above sorted, a delight to use, and no need for the slag chipping hammer.
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my 4A has all the rims proud, speedo and tacho included.
Can put up piccie if you want.
Najor Engine Problems
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Do you reckon it is worth squirting some oil in the #2 plug hole and trying the compression test again to see if rings are on the problem list. (plenty of other possibilities.)