littlejim
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Posts posted by littlejim
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Mission accomplished!!
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Hi LJ,
here is a pic of the cut line.
As it shows there is room to do either a butt od joggle joint.
Roger
Now yer got me stuffed!
When I was doing mine I would have done that one while the back bit was off, so I could put my bit of copper flat behind the weld. But your 'back' bit is already welded on.
Can't see how you fit a 'joggled' bit into that small space. But I guess if you widen it then you can fit a joggled bit in and hold it in place with magnets. (?Am I on the right track/)
(Self says to self, why has he run his disk grinder through it??)
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Tony, there should be a pipe on the side (RHS in my case) that you can attach an el cheapo vacuum cleaner to. This takes the vision impairing dust away and lets you see the bit you are working on.
As you say, otherwise it is like being a blind man.
Changing the plastic observation panel# fairly often helps a lot, as does fitting a second light tube in parallel with the provided one, Seeing what you are doing is what it is all about.
I use glass beads in mine, which is what I believe it was designed for, however once you have it you can use what you like.
#After paying through the nose for the proper plastic sheet I started using "menu holders' from the stationery store, which were a lot cheaper, and had two sheets of plastic you could use.
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trying hard to picture what your words are saying.
I did a bit of joggling on the body repairs (mainly to use the 'joggler' I forked out for), happy with butt welds before then.
Certainly didn't joggle anyjoints on the sills.
I hoped that the 'weld through' primer and subsequent 'waxoyling' inside would look after the subsequent rust risk.
Wherever I wasn't confident of good vision I used magnifiers to make sure I could see what I was doing. (I had early experiences of doing a quite nice weld alongside the actual overlap of metal.)
Found the 2x100 watt lights made a hell of a difference on that front. (used to have 'aircrew' standard eyesight but those days are gone.)
I have some beaut dental magnifiers, but Tandy type ones still let you see what is going on in enough detail.
The hose from my plenum drain has nothing to do with sills and comes out alongside them (dunno if that is what you are referring to.)
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I did the poor man's version with wood and a bit of pipe.
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Hi Folks,
My plug welds are not good. I used a 5/16 hole in the top skin and easily got an arc on the lower skin; but filling the hole uniformly has proved very difficult.
Tomorrow I think I may order the spot welder that Stuart has highlighted.
Roger
try bumping up the wire feed speed.
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Hi Mick,
I had a trial a few minutes ago and the 5/16-7mm hole works much better.
Roger
I hear a cheer ringing around the globe.
You've won an Onya.
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Just thought the price of the spot welder (and the six or seven welds you would do with it) would roughly be the same as bringing it over here.
Wherever you can, rotate the tub so that the weld will horizontal, and have it well lit as possible (eg. 2x100W lights) - this makes the welding a bit easier.
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Why don't you bring over to my place and we can have a go.
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Only a few hundred (thousand?) left to go.
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Hi LJ,
plug welds, even with a 1/4" hole, are not easily repeatable for me. Either my technique or my cheapo welder haven't the knack.
Roger
With a chassis up refurb, you get to do enough of them to become good at it Rog.
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Those of us without spot welders have to make do with 'plug' welds.
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Boggomobile Gutwrencher Mk2 PI
What a ripper name!
Wish the car firms would employ Alec as the model name guru.
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They usually have an 'extractor' port, I hooked (hook) up and old vacuum cleaner to it.
makes a lot of difference to your ability to see the item being cleaned.
Also found that the 'menu holders' sold at stationery stores were good for use as the 'viewing panel' on the inside of the lid.
They were a lot cheaper than the proper item, and you get two panels per menu holder.
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They're for Australian TRs.
Pete
Believe it or not, North is still in the same direction down here.
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I used glass beads in a blasting cabinet for the aluminium items during the 4A refurb.
I also used the bead blaster for anything that was the right size to fit in the cabinet.
Did buy a bag of soda but never got to use it for anything.
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Good luck with the moss end caps.
I had to do a lot of fettling to get them to fit ( however could have been my sills). The metal working skills learnt on them came in handy for later parts of the car.
The sill/end cap sections on my 4A are more your grinder sculpted welds than your mild steel pressings.
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When I did up my 4A I found the seat belt anchor points were just bolted to the original sheet metal.
Because I was grit blasting the whole thing I welded some 2 inch square patches of 1/4 inch steel to the spots where the seat belt anchor points were.
i'm hoping that that is strong enough to hold if the worst happens. (ie if the brown faecal material hits the rotary cooling device.)
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Periodically i get varied responses from Photobucket.
Suspect it has something to do with how many others are on line and connected to it.
If it is really being unkind I do something else and have another go later.
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I just wanted 'pretty'.
Quite happy for some of the heat to come out there rather than under the floor.
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I used the POR-15 manifold paint on my 4A and it still looks pretty after a few thousand Kms.
(I grit blasted it back to bare metal before painting.)
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Not in ex WW2 helmets Tom, by then the old cloth helmets had been superseded by leather, mine is dated Sept 1940.
Mick Richards
During initial training('63) we had a cloth inner helmet, that included the earphones, and the plastic bonedome went over the top of that.
The inner was blue too, so i bet it was from the UK.
Dunno how John found that tonneau picture, but turning your head at T junctions looks like it could be a problem.
Looks like a great idea otherwise.
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Exactly.....So that's what I'm going with.
I was just wondering what the main differences were.
Mark
Why not have a chat to the engine man about why he thinks his recommended oil is better then a high zddp oil.
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if Edmond knocked it out of gear and the wail remained the same, it cuts out quite a few items up the front of the car, which should have made the wail change with the reduced revs.
Leaves the diff and few more items at the back as suspects.
Wish I had the answer, but I don't. (Maybe the speedo blokes are on the right track)
The 4A Engine Rebuild
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
In the days of fuses (we have circuit breakers now) the blokes who sanded new floors using a big electricity driven sander, used to pull out the fuses from the box and insert a copper nail instead.
The surge when they turned the sander on used blow the fuse otherwise.
helped a neighbour sort out a few weird electrical problems when the sander forgot to replace the nail with the fuse after finishing the floor.