North London Mike
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Posts posted by North London Mike
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23 hours ago, stillp said:
I wonder if the vibration of the engine with respect to the body might cause failure of the HT lead from the coil?
Pete
Had mine on the inner wing for 15yrs, no problem, easy to get to, swap over etc
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Webers on LNK, properly set up, jetted, rolling road etc. Starts as it should and never runs on when finished with engine (my old SU's did occasionally thought !)
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
Good discussion here from professional pilots:
https://www.pprune.org/rumours-news/638797-united-b777-uncontained-engine-failure-4.html
The pilots seem to be quite calm about it - the air traffic controller sounds more rattled:
Strangely there was a similar incident on the same day at Maastricht involving a 747. Debris injured some people on the ground and damaged cars.
Air traffic Vs Pilots: Don't the pilots train all the time for loss of one engine, designed to fly very well on only one. Still, I'm sure we'd rather have both !!
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+ 1 for both Ian & Mick
LNK started life on SU's, and is currently on WEBERS, so 10 yrs on SUs and and 5 on WEBERS. Most people move to webers as part of a performance upgrade normally including a change of cam and some other trick bits.
If your engine is standard or you are not making any changes, stay with the SU's, great carbs. All the webers do is use more fuel. If you're fitting a longer duration cam, the webers allow you to max out at higher revs, they're more playful, a road run on webers is more of a mission. You can cruise, keeping the second choke closed but its counter intuitive. The price is about 5mpg
Sometimes its just a itch we need to scratch...............
I love my Webers
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I've used SS wheel nuts on LNK for 3 years now without issue. Never use or allow a 'gun' to remove or tighten and also recheck wheel nuts before and during tours as best practise
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Richard
A related story. In France a few years ago a convoy buddy in an MGA had a top hose go and knowing it was suspect, had packed both top & bottom hose spares (as the job was a bugger)
In hind sight he agreed it was even more of a bugger in our hotel car park, go figure, we landed up taking the whole rad out.
However, the relevant part of the story is refitting the Kenlow sender, and our failure to get it to seal. In the end I landed up making a new seal out of the old hose with the help of a sharp craft knife, you can still see the Jubilee clip crease.
Good bit of re-cycling and a useful tip as the old hose has, by default, a perfect profile ! So hang onto you old hose . . . . . and pack a sharp knife
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Collapsible/ folding Axle stand is a good back up to your main Jack, especially if you need to get under the car away from home
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LNK also has a custom Voltmeter, better and safer than an Ammeter (IMHO). I have learnt to read it over time. Cold start, headlamps on and it will read 12v quickly coming back to 13/14v which is where it tends to sit, very happy and as Rob says, you pay your money and make your choice !
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Ferrari F40 looknotalike . . . . . hence the TR40 badge
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Thanks guys, useful to know ( supply by region noted)
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Cyclists: Obviously present company excepted of course, unless you're barreling along the pavement on a mountain bike expecting me to step into the road to get out of your way (just saying)
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
Judging by the evidence of my own eyes, they don't seem particularly interested in whether a bike actually has any lights at all, let alone legal ones...............
Agree, and they're all on the bloody pavements now anyway !!
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I agree, modern LED H4 bulbs are now available with correct light pattern, and will pass MOT standard beam pattern test, no problem
If you're worried about cost of spares, keep your old Halogen bulbs in the car, change BOTH if you have a failure. French only care that you have a spare and it matches (which it will do if you change both). Sorted
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I bought MX5 seats on ebay and used TR Trader brackets, £83 inc vat, very good, helpful instructions, good value (no connection)
Good luck
https://www.trtrader.com/parts-lists/MX5-seat-brackets.htm
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In other news
Will synthetic fuels ride to the rescue of classic cars?
''Those hurdles are being evaluated in multi-million pound research and development programmes, with the most high-profile being run by Porsche, Siemens and the German government. The trio recently announced the Haru Oni project in southern Chile, betting that synthetic fuels could be a viable, ultra-low carbon alternative to fossil fuels. At the same time, Bill Gates, the Microsoft founder, is partially funding Carbon Engineering in Canada.''
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Tier 4
, fortunately I managed to get LNK out for a quick spin on Tuesday. I'd spent some of lock down fitting new (to me) MX5 seats
They obviously needed a test drive . . . . .
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Hi Guys
TR4 door retainers, hook & catch, vehicle set
Looking for both pairs, OS & NS, looks like they are only available used. If you have some or know of a source, please let me know
Thank you
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On 11/26/2020 at 12:16 PM, RogerH said:
Hi Folks,
mention was made last week or so about Radiator fans and what to buy. Revotec, being the most expensive, were being queried as to whether they were worth it or not.
I don;t know about Revotec but I do know about cheap ebay sh*te. About 5 years ago I fitted a 'good value for money' ebay wonder.
After about five years and 4 miles per year ( 20 ish miles) the heap of dung stopped working. OK, it was cheap. But imagine if it was on a road going car - major upset.
Mine is similar t the one that Mike North removed a short while ago as it didn't push enough air through the rad. 12V 120W - steer clear.
I would like to thank the forum for raising this issue and killing my fan
Roger
Roger
This may inform, just a bit of fun in the garage, partly to justify the cost of the Revotec !!
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Early TR4, top hung gauge, electric (for reference). I later had a Voltmeter built to match
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Agree with Hamish, downpipe temp controller is the way to go
However, I'm not sure about the ebay fan. NOTE my comments refer to the best selling Aeroline, the 120W version. Hamish has the 220W which should be nearly twice as powerful and I'm sure has served him well. Whilst mine was the 120W version and, whilst drawing a lot of amps, was rubbish in operation, clearly underpowered. Replaced with the Revotec dedicated puller
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Hi Pete
Revotec ? Have you fitted it or entertaining the 'cheaper' alternative ? I had a marginal ebay fan on LNK for years, it talked the talk but couldn't do the rest of it despite the noise it made. Swapped it out during lock down for a dedicated sucker Revotec. Difference was night and day and well worth the investment. I already had the generic temp switch in the down pipe with a manual override in the cab, just switched it over, no problem
What temp switch were you using before ?
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8 hours ago, Phil H 4 said:
Good Point Mike,
No not my daily, have a 4x4 for that, not sure i'd take the 6 out in the snow Steve but with global warming not sure it'll be an issue for long
Winter tyres aren't really about snow, there really about sub 5 deg temp where summer tyres just give up but winter ones remain pliable and grippy. The UK is cold and damp for 4-5 months, thats when they're needed
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Winter coming ? Winter tyres would may be your biggest gain, better to avoid the accident than try to survive it.
However, I assume the Six isn't your daily
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I'll get you some padded gloves Mike
Weber/SU
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Sorry Tom. Technical error
Lets settle for light throttle opening 
Ps. No cold start, garaged when cold, never been a problem but appreciate cold start could be an issue, especially if not properly set up