North London Mike
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Posts posted by North London Mike
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Changed all my lines a while back, R9 hose through out. SAEJ30R9, pointless doing anything less as, over time, you will have to use at least E5, and increasingly E10, especially abroad. Any old style hose will simply melt away cause leaks and depositing lumps of rubber in the the fuel system blocking carbs, jets, fuel pump filters etc, see below. Do it once, do it well
Please wait while image is uploading...
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Hi Billy
Lovely car, shame it has to go, but as we all know, we're really only the current custodian and I'm sure the car will once again be enjoyed
(hope you get what you want/need for it)
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On 2/18/2022 at 10:16 PM, North London Mike said:
+1 on the Little Devil space heater, use a small 6KG gas bottle, brilliant
Been following the science, not qualified to disagree. However, as my little garage is wide single, rather than a double, I only have to run the heater on almost the pilot light to warm the garage. Vented, and I never work with it on, too loud. When the heater isn't on, the de-humidifier is. In three years I haven't found any condensation on heavy hammers, roof cross struts etc, all excellent condensation meters
........just saying
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On 2/17/2022 at 1:31 PM, john.r.davies said:
I use a Clarke "Little Devil" gas heater. Very noisy, but most effective.
+1 on the Little Devil space heater, use a small 6KG gas bottle, brilliant
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2 hours ago, ntc said:
Not so keep the old plates they keep the number belonging to the car now
Everyday is a school day, been out of the game since I retired.................
Q: Do you have to pay to retain the existing/ original number, if not it's surrendered to the DLVA (my original thought) ?
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Hi Jerry
Normally your old plate is surrendered to the DVLA and if you ever sell the TR7, you would retain your cherished (new) plate on retention and the DVLA will issue an age related plate which would enable you to sell on the 7. You will remember that you didn't like the existing plate so why retain it ?
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3 hours ago, Willie said:
Just to reiterate, the smell is inside the boot, but all connections are dry - checked numerous times.ALL hoses renewed with R9 early in 2020. There are two hexagonal blanking plugs on top of the tank, also dry. Is one of these for the breather? Photo of the subject will be appreciated, together with any part number and where to get one. I have owned the car since early 2013, so wasn't involved in the tank swap.
For the record, Charlie, I live upwind of the chicko!! PM me if you want to take a look!
Willie
HI Willie
Sorry, late in on this. You say you have changed all the hoses for R9, as did I, however, did you change the 'downpipe' the fat hose connecting the filler cap to the tank ? Due to size and location they tend not to be fuel/ E5 /E10 quality or changed often, could have been re-used during the tank swap ? I found mine had rotted from the inside out. Looked fine, but wasn't and the cause of the fuel smell in the boot. Worth a look
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Great news, welcome back Roger
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Disclaimer: I have not legal training
Question: If the Scouts can prove that the 'HUT' was provided by the Scouts and or supporters, then maybe they own the hut and lease the land. If they have to go in Feb 22 (as the Priest wants the HUT) then take the hut with them. Maybe the Priest won't be interested in the foundation slab !!
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Just re-packed LNK with my 185x70x15 (5&1/2 J) spare. Always a tight fit and clean rubber drags on clean paint, didn't want to go at all
So I lubed the floor, tank bottom and the tyre with a little silicon and HeyPresto it slid right in.........in my experience, 185 is the max !
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I solved this problem in my old Frogeye by fitting the 'mirror on a rod' from (in my case) the big Healeys as suggested above by Stuart. Worked brilliantly but it does need to be bolted at both ends
As to the modern solution, try a VW UP! mirror, for a modern car, still in production it's very analogue and VW OEM quality. Simple glue (UV) to screen fixing with solid dip action and ageless styling
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363075179227?hash=item5488f792db:g:CLUAAOSwFmZfNVnb
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Have to agree, rubbish parts, poor quality, similar problem. New nipple replacing an (original) rounded off one. Moss replacement from China, seized in the caliper and then sheared when I put a ring spanner on it, result, new caliper .........
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Search will reveal several posts over the years with several lists of touring spares and even articles in TR Action. Agree with earlier comments, know your car and fix it before you leave home, mobile will do the rest. Spares are the key, most people have tools you can borrow.............enjoy the ride !
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''Who would want one of them lorries tailgating their TR !''
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1 hour ago, Chris59 said:
"If you have a GB sticker, cover or remove it before driving outside the UK"
Interesting. Some sources are saying you can keep the GB badge 'providing' you have a UK one as well, no mention of removing it ?
My plan is still to carry a magnetic UK one to cover my metal GB badge as and when required...........However, having just come back from Angouleme (just before the rule change) and I doubt I'll be back in EU land much before May/ June, I'm hoping the dust may have settled after 9+ months ?
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I wonder how much licence our 'old' cars will be given at border posts etc.
LNK has an old RAC GB plate, been on the car forever
I intend to buy a magnetic one as suggested by RobH and cover my GB one if necessary
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North London Group went through this a while back. Basically two areas of concern, rubber Fuel lines links (inc fuel pump seals) and the carb seals. Fuel hoses start to break up internally and the fuel filler neck to tank hose is really at risk if you brim your tank as I used too. Photo of my fuel pump filter stripped down, full of dissolved rubber
I replaced every piece of rubber hose in the fuel lines with R9 rated (ethanol proof) rubber fuel hose, fitted a modern fuel pump and Webers which are rated. Think rebuilt SU have modern seals now
Of these, the fuel line is, IMHO, the most important, especially those by the tank, 'out of sight, out of mind'
E5 was eating our rubber lines, E10 will be much worse. Can't recommend doing nothing, and hoping for Esso or E5. Occasionally you'll have no choice.............. especially abroad
Act now, don't wait................
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Andrew
Good to see you at Malvern and thanks for sharing the photos. Looks like a great day, Bev would have loved it
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Trial fit of a part racing dash a few months ago, didn't seem to make much difference
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1 hour ago, dblenk said:
HI
just out of interest can you still get the fibreboard tunnels ??
david
My original tunnel turned to paper mache at the 2007 IWE, apparently not water proof
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Two part tunnel is a must if starting from scratch. Mine is solid, being a few years old, but I now have an G/Box level inspection hole, very handy and as Roger says, a 2nd inspection hole for solenoids etc is a nice to have. Tunnel is screwed down with a rubber weather seal (and silicon if you want it !)
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Hi Marco
Please put me down for one also, email is mike643mnp@aol.com, and details of how you would like the money
Thank you
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+1, drive it don't store it
(Photo would be nice)
Alternator choices for TR4
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Nigel
Sounds like you have a Lucas TR6 conversion kit, pretty straight forward stuff and you probably need to replace like for like as, if you intend to carry the spare, you need to be able to use the same belt/ pully and connector block for your existing loom. Whilst I have replaced mine a couple of times due to the exhaust cooking the electrics, I'm not sure I'd carry one (we don't even on the Ten Countries) Providing the ignition light hasn't started to flicker you're normally OK for 2000 miles
However, like Hamish, I have walked away from Lucas last year and fitted a lightweight compact 'racing' alternator rated at 40amps. Needs a different arm and, in my case, a longer belt, different connector etc. Further away from the exhaust heat and better made, I'm hope it's the long term fix and it's my recommendation.
NB. My old Lucas was 65 amps, however, the new 40amp carries the load no problem, back from France last year in the rain, at night, everything on, lights, wipers etc Newhaven to N. London, two hours +