Alpha206
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Posts posted by Alpha206
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Thanks Litespud.
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Soooo....that was harder than it should've been and it looks as if I'll need to get a new steering column lock assembly.
One question; there is a green/brown wire attached to the side of the lock assembly, running to a bullet connector. Anyone know what this is for? It didn't appear to be connected to anything..
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Thanks Sean - I'll take another look when things cool down outside!
Graeme
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Hi all
I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed.
Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it.
Any guidance gratefully received!
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Same here. Then today tr5/6 rear crankshaft seal and tr5/6 pressure plate...both posted by had17642....
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I've not been on the forum (I.e. Not even logged in!) for a few months but in the last couple of days I've been receiving notifications of updates to random threads to which I'm not subscribed...anyone else experiencing this?
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If you're still looking, I had the same problem a few years back - got a 2nd-hand one from TRBitz (from a scrapped US car)...about £25 back then.
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Hi Mark, the dip switch has worked fine for the last 6 years so it's unlikely to be incorrect wiring. Malcolm, have cleaned the terminals but will try and do some more work on the connectors...thanks for help so far!
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So I'm driving home from the pub on Thursday, country lanes so I put the main beams on (floor-mounted dip switch, fitted 2006 and not used that much). Car coming the other way so I dip the lights...except they go off. Instrument lights are still at full 1-candlepower.Hit the dip switch again and main beams come back on, cycle the lights lever on the column and hit dip switch and dipped lights back. Sigh of relief breathed.
Get home safely (touching nothing!) and have play around whilst putting the car in the garage - no mains/dips.
On further investigation I've found that all other lights are working, but the sidelights and tail lights only work in the dipped beam position, and then only after waggling the switch a little.
So, I guess the question is where do I start finding the the fault? Foot switch (on which I've checked the connections in case I'd dislodged something or column switch (my thought is the latter) - anyone experienced these symptoms before?
Cheers,
Graeme
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+1 on that. Mine has been disconnected for 20 years. Bit of throttle with full enrichment and bingo...
+2...I fitted a TR7 cable earlier this year. So far so good.
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Don't know if it matters, but my car is LHD
/Inge
Just wondering which was longer - the RHD one appears shorter but is it long enough to reach the metering unit on a RHD car?
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I bought a TR7 choke cable (from Revington) and cut it to length, works fine.
Silly question.....RHD or LHD one?
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Another source (as I discovered on this forum) of fumes was via the holes for the numberplate lights - mine is on the rear bumper but my rear panel is from a late car so has the holes for the lights; temporary fix was a couple of bits of duct tape over the holes and the smell in the boot disappeared.
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Definitely not me!
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Hi, Nick,
I apologise in advance for hi-jacking your thread. I have read all the advice you have generated, and largely I concur. However, I must relay an experience I had in April of this year. I had been in England to get my supercharged TR6 to the rolling road in the West Midlands, and had a universal joint fail in the left hand driveshaft. The rolling road guy couldn't fix it, as his workshop was full, so a chum of mine found a small, one-man garage, who specializes in VW's, who said he could do it. When I got the car to him, he drove it onto his hoist, and lifted it ON THE SILLS!!!!
I was horrified, and told him so, but he merely shrugged, and said he always lifted cars like that, including Bentleys. He did say that if there is any sound of crunching, he stops immediately, but in my case the body is pretty well rust-free (Californian car). I cannot find any signs that the experience has left on the sills.
Don't misunderstand me, I am not advocating this approach, but I mention it for discussion, and consideration.
Take care,
Austin
I think my local tyre place tried to do something similar (but not so severe) a few months back as I found paint missing from one of the sills...just can't prove it.
Nick, good to see you on the Forum and that you've got your hands on your TR again!
Graeme
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My six is a similar age (1972 K) - what do I need to look for?
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I've got one of these; still very pleased with it (although as I've got 195s I no longer carry a spare....
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Try TRBitz - mine failed 3 or 5 years ago and they supplied a 2nd-hand one (from a LHD car they'd broken as the O/S locks don't get as much use) - cost about £25 IIRC.
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Why would anyone have trouble fitting the correct size wheel and tyre in the boots wheel well ?
In my case I've got a non-standard aluminium fuel tank and I'm running 195s - even deflated the tyre doesn't fit under it.
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I used them for the first 3 years of the rebuild until I realised Moss were down the road.. I could have saved probably over £500 in delivery costs over those years, (Rimmers delivery costs are very high)... The only reason I never used Moss was their poor website, Rimmers have all (well most of) the pictures up of each component. With the Moss catalogue its easy and I can pick up.
I found Moss were expensive to order small items so have used Rimmers more recently...even though Moss London are just down the road from me, although that's more of a case of often not having the time to drive down there. Rimmers sent me a TR6 catalogue a couple of weeks ago which is better than Moss' offering IMO.
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Now on the TSSC forum.
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Yep, mine emerged yesterday too. At last!
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My car, once Maple, was restored in Signal Red but has kept the tan interior......it's a bit shabby and maybe not to everyone's taste and I
was planning to change it at some point to black with red piping...but I'm now quite fond of the colour because it's a bit different.
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Try something like Meguiar's ScratchX - it's a pure polish with a degrading abrasive designed to remove light scratches and swirls. It's important to follow it up with a protector such as a wax, otherwise you'll leave the paint exposed to damage. And before you use the polish, wash the car then go over it with a clay bar & lubricant - that will remove all the bonded contaminants.
Deeper scratches will need professional treatment.
Ignition barrel trim - how do I remove it?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks Ian...I'd already ordered one...the repros are a nightmare to fit though...they are square as opposed to cylindrical and I practically had to dismantle the steering column assembly to give it any chance of going into place..(I'm sure there's an easier way but I never found it!)...still got to put it all back together but it was starting to get dark after 3 1/2 hours.