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Jersey Royal

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Posts posted by Jersey Royal

  1. Thanks All for your responses.

     

    Yes Neil,does seem as its a external coating thats not doing alot.

     

    For the sake of originality,i want to get this little detail right,which seems to be the done thing recently, I really must get this right on my car.

     

    Te he

     

    Cheers

    Guy

  2. Hi Guy,

     

    I'm pretty sure these things are secured with some kind of adhesive - silicone or similar.

     

    See you at IWE.

    Cheers

    Allan

    Hi Allan,

     

    Yes, it does look like a type of silicon, but its quite hard and no longer holding the valve in one place, its not causing any problem, not bad enough to upset the idle.

     

    See you at IWE with a bit of luck.

     

    Cheers

    Guy

  3. Hi All,

     

    The idle valve on my cp inlet manifold is just slighly loose in that I can turn it.

    It appears to have been glued in place, this would have been done by Prestige some years back.

     

    Can anyone confirm how the idle valve should be fitted.?

     

    Would post a picture but photoshop is not playing ball and I have yet to find another photo suite that my tiny brain can cope with.

     

    Thanks

    Guy

  4. Hi Guy,

    they are Hawk HPS ferro carbon HB169F.560 from Cambridge Motorsports (their ebay online store)

     

    john

    John

    Excellent as mine but different calipers.

    Cheers

    Guy

  5. That worked pretty well. I just bought a GoPro and I'm currently accumulating all the bits needed to make it useful with a car. These sample videos and experiments have been very helpful.

     

    Stan

    Totaly agree, I am in the same boat.

    Johny250 whats the spec on the mic you have used.?

     

    Thanks

    Guy

  6. I've just fitted the Hawk pads after removing the Greenstuff that were poor and squealed when hot.....

    interestingly the Hawk pads need to be used quite hard after fitting for 10 or 12 stops whereas the |Greenstuff say to avoid using them hard after fitting. I was testing the sound quality of an external camera microphone (inside the boot) on the first run out after fitting the new pads, as you can see, they work fine!

     

    john

     

     

    Nice video

     

    Which Hawk Pads did you go for?

     

    Cheers

    Guy

  7. Coolie

     

    Paul Bishop does mx5 seat

    Heres a link to his e bay shop, he can cover the seats in whatever material/ pattern you like. Some have had the seats with pleats similar to the originals,if you contact him

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mx5-MK2-Seats-Recovered-in-Black-leather-/221450674867?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338f7d22b3

     

    Tr trader can supply runners

     

    Cant coment on mg seats

     

    Cheers

     

    Guy

  8. Damn, this will open up a can of worms ..... :lol::lol:

     

    Website Home page

    Top righthand corner

    Third item down - Parts Quality

    This should open up a form - fill and return to the office (e-mail, post, direct link).

     

    Do not expect to get answers by return of post. You all know how long it takes to get anything done. But things will be chased up as far as possible.

    We will reply to all queries and I believe there are plans to have updates in TRAction of what has been going and progress.

    There is no dedicated box on the forum for PQI but I'm sure we can get a controlled thread running.

     

    Roger

    Good job

     

    Heres a link to the page

     

    http://www.tr-register.co.uk/pqi/

     

    Cheers

    Guy

     

    I had better get form filling. Te he

  9. Hi Peter,

    water hoses in general seem to work OK. Also there is the fancy silicon versions (mucho wonga).

    If the steering rack and other things are still a problem then send the forms in and we'll get cracking.

     

    Roger

    Roger

     

    For the benefit of all, and completeness.

     

    What forms? Where are they obtained?

     

    Cheers

    Guy

  10. Very slowly !!

     

    So.... Reckon you would not put her back to original, even though some may consider your motor would be worth more in original spec.

     

    Could be worse....... Sienna Brown., now thats very rare, wonder why????

     

    Cheers

    Guy

  11. Hi, I have been through all the many-many-many posts about brakes but can find exactly what I need, so please help if you can.

     

    Rebuilding my 6, replaced brake master cylinder, pipes, front calipers and rear brakes complete.

     

    I always understood to bleed the nearside rear first, then the offside rear, then nearside front then offsdie front (right hand drive). The rear brakes bled ok, the problem came when I tried to bleed the front. I got nothing from the front bleed nipples at either caliper. I undid the primary feed pipe to the front brakes at the caliper and pushed the brake peddle, nothing came out except air (I think it was air, it did sound like air was coming out, but certainly no fluid, the reservoir was full, primary and secondary). My questions, did I bleed the system in the correct order? should I have bled the front first rather than the rear first? Do I have to prime the master cylinder in some way (never done that before)? Could the master cylinder, even though new, be faulty?

    Regards, Peter

    Peter,

     

    Rear first offside then nearside, then front offside front nearside. Always start at the further most distance from the Mc. Shouldnot make any difference if you do rear before front.

     

    With a new Mc, I have done a bench bleed as per post three in this thread

     

    http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40553-bleeding-the-master-cylinder/

     

    This should remove any air stuck in the master, then reconnect pipework and bleed.

     

    Check you have front of master feeds rear brakes and rear of master feeds front.

     

    If you have the above correct, try jaming the pedal down overnight, system is then open and air, with luck should rise to Mc.

     

    Also check for any leaks at the junction on the front chassis.

     

    Good luck

     

    Guy

  12. Evening Guy

    I bought from Classic Driving Developments , not Moss.

    I met them at the Stoneleigh event and liked their front and rear sets, so ordered both.

    The rears were delayed so I took delivery of the fronts first, no major issues.

    I'm in two minds about the cv rears at the moment, several people who I respect don't think cvs are appropriate for the rear.

    Ho hum

    Steve

    Steve

     

    Thanks for that.

     

    Found there website

     

    http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk

     

    Seems there front kit is 370 a pair which is alot cheaper than MOSS I think.

     

    I wonder if there is any difference in quality? Do they come from the same source?

     

    My last communication with moss was they were awaiting stock, thats a good few weeks ago,I have been pre-occupied recently and not chased them up, I have sent them an e mail now.

     

    Think its going to be my next job.

     

    Thanks for posting this thread

     

    Cheers

     

    Guy

     

    Why oh why does this forum let you reply to a post when you arent logged in. Having written your post only to find you have to redo once logged in. Bar humbug

  13. I too have a Stihl power washer. When I got it, I was told that if I was to use an extension lead, make sure its only as long as it needs to be, and made of a suitably sized cable.

    Not one of your usual cable extension reels, as this will drasticaly reduce its life, as the pump will be working harder.I had them make me up a cable, think its rated at 16 amps, not sure.

     

    Happy days.

     

    Cheers

    GUY

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