Jersey Royal
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Posts posted by Jersey Royal
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Ian
That looks interesting, workable may need to enlarge the hole in the servo case.
Thank you
Cheers
Guy
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Thanks Andrew.
The Moss part you show is for the bayonet type fittings I believe.
Mine being a aftermarket servo has a push in plug type Black valve
I have just superglued it back together, seems ok but would prefer a new seal.
This part should really be a serviceable item.
Cheers
Guy
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Hi All,
I have a Tr Shop Brake servo it has the push in type valve.
This valve pushes into a grommet type rubber seal, into the metal casing of the servo.
This rubber seal has split half way around its edge
, basically where the metal of the servo casing touches itThe seal has MBM 0151-10 on it.
I have spoken with Tr Shop and they cant supply just the seal,
they will of course supply me with a complete servo at 110 quid. 
So does anyone have any suggestions with the above.
I am thinking as a temporary measure, which may not work, to simply
superglue the two edges of the seal together.
Cheers
Guy
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I have just advised Towegate by e mail, that I have fitted AP Brake Calipers.
That's was easy, noted and no change in Premium, comment was "we like it if you can stop"
So its worthwhile advising of all mods.
Cheers
Guy
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, a lot of people have stopped posting because of the **** they have to put up with,
Pink
So
Who are all these people?
Sure its not in your imagination.
Cheers
Guy
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Having provided the panels for the past 4/5 years may I ask what happened to the front wing from this year?
Crumbs.
I do hope it wasnt just left there....
Guy
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Whats with the spoiler?
Where are the mudflaps
Te he
Guy
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Interesting it does also, buy the markings look like a used washer.
Cheers
GUY
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Hi Guy
Keeping stum at the mo;0)
Want it to be a surprise
Fair enough Martin
However I will have a guess Cobras.
cheers
Guy
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Love it.
Cheers
Guy
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Thanks Alec
Sausage fingers strike again ;0)
Regards
Martin,
What sort of wheel have you in mind mate.
Cheers
Guy
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Roy did my diff, perfect job and no signs of any leak at all.
Which is more than I can say for for my gearbox/overdrive which has a
Slight leak built by some one else.
When it comes to any further work on my gearboxs they will be going to Roy.
I think we are very lucky to have people who we can call on to sort these things out.
Cheers
Guy
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You are a very patient man. It looks a cracker from the photo. Blue is very popular......
Much nicer than brown Peter,
Cheers
Guy
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Hi All,
This thread may be in the wrong place, but icant see where else to put it, its technical in it navigation. TE he.
This will be the fourth time the Channel Island TR Group have attended. This year we have six members in 5 Trs and 1 Pagoda.
We always have a great trip down the D 35, stopping at Fougeres for lunch.
however we always seem to get to Le Mans at rush hour, 5 pm.
We dont really plan the route to the circuit just follow any signs or the twat nav.
Generaly we drop in from Conlie, and go the shortest route directly to circuit. Last year we went what seemed to be a straight line down to the circuit through the centre....at a snails pace.
So this I thought I would ask your experiences, at rush hour.
Its been suggested we take the A11 and drop onto The N23, however its also be suggested at rush hour it will be like the M25.
Or go via the N138.
Thank you
Cheers
GUY
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Tim,
Sorry to hear that.
Know the feeling well.
Cheers
Guy
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Pete,I have a Serck Motorsport Ali radiator. If it's good enough for McLaren etc.
Strangely it was your experience, third time lucky that put me off. Cant be doing with all that faffing sending rads back and forth across the Channel. AND with my luck these last few months thats what would happen.
Ps revotec fan cuts in auto mode and off, so thats a result.
Don,
Not a good fit for sure.
Cheers
Guy
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Thanks All.
Ok not going ally, seems there have been a few issues
Thanks
Guy
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Guy
I have a 'spare' rad that I'm pretty sure is okay if you're interested?
Cheers
Ian
Thanks for the thought Ian.
Its appreciated, but I think I should take this opportunity to replace it with a brand new one, if ally rads do improve the cooling by 35%{tr shop} 1.5 times {Revington} its got to be worth a punt.
Theres Serek, Radtec, Tr Shop, Revington, Racetorations, and others havent got that far yet.
Cheers
Guy
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HI All,
BUGGER, testing the cooling system after fitting new fan, and the dam radiator has spring a leak. The old fan was fitted with through the core ties, think I may have damaged it removing them. So I am not best pleased with myself, even though I was carefull.
With Le Mans coming up in a couple weeks I need a replacement, havent got the time to get this one recored, need one off the shelf.
Can anyone recommend a supplier, is it worth going the ally route.?
Thanks
GUy
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Ok
Thanks again for above comments
This is what I have done.
Binned the kenlowe switch, and used an ordinary toggle switch and separate warning light.
To the dash light I have wired a separate 12v feed ignition controlled,the earth to this light I have connected to a link wire connecting to blue wire(the small blue one between controller and relay) and connected to toggle switch.The other terminal on toggle switch goes to earth.
My reckoning is,rightly or wrongly is that the small blue wire switchs to earth and fires up relay fan works,the light works in manual and fan comes on, yet to dry in in auto mode.
What do chaps think.?
Sorry I cant post a photo.
Cheers
Guy
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Thank you Chaps,
Most helpful
I have connected an earth to the light blue wire via a switch on dash, and fan comes on.
So thats Great.
My switch is an old type kenlowe illuminated one, which used to light up when fan came on via the stat, plus turn the switch light and fan come on.
So why cant I connect to this dash switch an ignition control 12v supply, the earth wire from the relay(light blue wire) and the switch itself has to be earthed. So as I understand it, probably misguided, when the contoller earths out either via the stat or by turning the switch on, this will complete the circuit on the dash switch and the switch will light?
Hmmmm trouble is dont think the kenlowe overide switch is wired like that, has four terminals one is earth two are power trying to work out what the other is.
Cheers
Guy
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Hi,
Can't open link, so will assume the fan is supplied through a relay. The relay primary, ie. the coil, will be earthed via the stat switch. All you need to do is connect another earth circuit from the relay coil with an inline switch, so either the stat or switch will provide the earth and thus turn on the fan. I also connected a dash warning light to the fan relay contact to show the fan coming on by the stat or switch. The supply the relay coil can be either via the ignition swith or an non-ignition source, the latter enabling the fan to remain with the ignition turned off.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Hi Mike,
Thanks,
Sorry about that link, having computer issues one way or another
Heres another the diagram is same as in the first post except just one fan
Hope this works
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/119621-fan-controller-melting-fuses-why.html
I hope to wire in my existing kenlowe switch which is illuminated.
Cheers
Guy
Just read through that link above, and note the wiring diagram at the post timed at
22:53
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Hi All,
I have fitted a new Revotec fan, comes with a controller for top hose.
Wiring diagram is shown in this link page 6
Please could someone advise me the best way to wire in a manual overide switch?, I have e mailed Revotec directly but to no response.
Thanks
Guy
Wheel Arch Clearance
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Jersey Royal
I have Revos too, made in England version, believe they are now made in Spain and are different.
195 x 65 tyres. Revington set up front and back, no spacers were needed on mine.
So as Pete says many variables.
Cheers
Guy
You may find that they touch on the top wishbones, if so its likely to be the nut on the top , where they go through the ball joint, turn both around.