tr4u2
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Posts posted by tr4u2
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john
assume 4a and 4 are the same part no 850340ft
i was starting from bare door but would think that you could take front and rear channels out with the glass still in doing it one at a time
once out, drill out the rivets holding the brackets to the old channels,clean repaint brackets if you want to
easy way is then to clamp old and new alongside each other then using a square mark across hole centres
drill new channels,i had some solid countersunk head rivets but otherwise use small csk hd screws/nuts (screw hd's inside channel)don't use self tappers! to fix brkts to channel
refit to glass door and adjust to suit
regards adrian any problems drop me an email
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Thks all
once i got the correct Towergate (didcot ) all went well
just got conf quote in post today from Sue
£186 with all the mods could not believe it
regards Adrian
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To those of you who replied to my query on which tyres are best thanks very much info was pretty unanimous on Avons.
had to talk to Simon at TR Ent last week, he agreed with you guy's
TR coming on well, to extent thinking about getting it insured so i can get it mot'd
Just fell off my chair when Adrian Flux quoted £500+ AND only third party!!!! my Honda S2000 is less than that with 200+bhp
OK so its got a few mods like cam,head webbers, lsd,alloy panels,mini-lites etc,etc,could not see why girl was interested in the black leather bucket seats but each to his own
you guys must be in similar spec cars SO who do you use to cover your cars,i assume you have declared your mods of course !!!!
regards Adrian
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i might actually get my TR4 finished/running in the next week or two thanks to a prolonged spell off work
it has been built with the idea of doing a few hill-climbs ,sprints etc before i get to old/ cannot afford it
So i have a set of 5.5 minilites on it with some cooking tyres so i can use it on the road to run it in etc
what tyres do you guys recommend for competition use
regards adrian
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Jim
like you not a pro but having done this if you want my advice put the body back on the chassis and set it up best you can re door gaps etc
my tub was much worse than i thought so ended up getting another rear from B post back.
so i had the front section A post forward and the back half bolted down. i even put the empty door shells back on to see i had got the gaps/height about right.
then bolt the floors down and work out from there,as you say tack and try!!! before welding
have you got a spot welder or are you going to plug weld ? get all the prep done first, go to a good motor factors and get a spray can of weld through primer this will give all those cleaned off edges some protection
best of luck regards Adrian
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Just posted all the items i have over in the Buy/Sell Forum just in case like me you do not always look in there
regards adrian
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Tom
my frame is flat under the capping but indented underneath for the surrey top bolts,suppose you just put a plug in there if not using the holes
regards
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thanks guys,will put the original one back on as its correct
why don't supplies check these things
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Can someone tell me which is the correct capping that is riveted to the top of the screen with a Surrey Top.
Both the Moss and Rimmer webbs seem to indicate part number 806189 BUT the parts drawings indicate that the pressing has a bulge at each end for a press stud fixing,in fact Moss actually list the fixings.
however what you get is a pressing without the press stud feature in it from both suppliers
which is correct one please?????
also while on the subject the seal for this area has a formed bump at each end does this go down on to the screen or up to the top, blowed if i can see which way it fits,also there are no holes for the two fixing bolts,something else you have to sort for yourself??
regards adrian
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Chris
in cases like this with my resto i have made the shape out of a piece of scrap hardwood or aluminium,make the sheet steel shape 3-4 mm bigger all round,then clamp the sheet to the wood and gently knock the edge over to make the upstand as the original. you will have to flie/sand/linish the edges level if you want to.
drill two holes to suit the nut thread you need, using some scrap screws fasten two nuts on them attach them to the plate with your mig welder
if you are not worried about it being original just cut the shape and follow step 2
regards adrian
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Having purchased so many items in my TR4 total rebuild that do not fit correctly this may be another of these.
fitted the front suspension to both sides as this w/e's tick on the project list to find the following
on the n/s side when the suspension is on the bottom stop (full droop) the rear ear that goes against the lock stop, fouls the rear lower wishbone arm at the fulcrum pivot point. this locks the steering. the o/s is OK with minimal clearance in the same full droop!
as you jack up the suspension this clears which would possibly indicate its ok when the cars weight is on the suspension but i am not happy to leave it at this with out knowing whats wrong
both the top and bottom the arms are on the correct way ,both sides upright and trunnion are brand new, 3' castor type leaning correct way, all new bushings throughout
Also on both neither of the lock stops is big enough to actually be able to set the stop either on turn in or out ,i am assuming i have the correct lock stops
lock stop is 3/4" with offset bolt hole if anyone has correct item they can check for me
would welcome any idea's, pointers please
regards Adrian
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Started putting it all back together after the painting, came to the front vent flap, only to find the hole for the push rod is missing.
can anyone help with location please ,perhaps easiest to use the edge of the rear access plate hole as the datum
OR
Anyone near East Goscote, Leicester let me have a look at their 4
regards Adrian Salisbury
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There is some NEW furflex for sale on Ebay,enough to do a car if anyone is interested
regards
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Roger
really enjoy reading about your rebuild when continuing with mine.
Makes me realise i do not have the only TR4 that was not built by Triumph when fitting new parts. just bought a brand new grill that has more chance of fitting a Morris oxford than a TR4 and an anti roll bar kit that says suggest you use "our" sump guard as a mounting point for this and if you don't want to,well assume i am on my own again as with other up grades that leave you wondering!!
luckily i have the support of my old mate Barry Hodson motorsport just down the road and Simon at Tr Ent when i fell like throwing the towel in out of frustration
Carry on with the good works and the updates
regards Adrian
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This company have been on ebay for some while, selling new TR4 front grilles, anybody bought one and if so is the grille any better than any others you can buy
regards adrian
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Hi Mark
I had a clarke mig for a while and it was ok until decided to shell out on a more professional model before starting on my TR4
I bought a Migatronic after research, the deciding factor was that their UK base is in Loughborough near me. Soon as i got it set up (i use qtr size bottle of gas from boc ) the difference in the ability to weld thin material was amazing.
I must admit that these days i tend to use TIG (bought because i needed to weld my Ali wings)when welding body work i get less distortion
I think Clarke/machine mart do a great job in what they sell,i have an engine crane and engine stand from them plus other bits of kit
Take a look round your local welding suppliers, have a chat with them on what you want to do, many have good trade in's at reasonable prices
regards Adrian
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Just use 12 pt socket,its that easy
that's what I use
regards Adrian
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Hi
Anyone out there fitted ARP head bolts?
I am in the process of doing so and find that I have a problem in that they come with 12 point K nuts.
I therefore cannot use hex or 6 point torq sockets, which I have, so what DO I use and where can I find it.
Moss say that they have been selling these kits for years, but were not aware that they came with 12 point nuts.
regards
Clive in France
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So I have read the workshop manual and having been quoted what I think is lots of money to do the job,i have decided to have a go myself.
Before I start anybody done this already (successfully!!) who I can chat to,see if my theories on how to proceed without the factory jigs are correct
Before you ask why, its having an lsd fitted so have to start from scratch
regards Adrian
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Don't know how but missed the fact that the hole in the bottom arms where the nylon bush goes has worn out of round until I put the new bushes in.
given the fact there is not a lot of meat around the hole, is boring and sleeving back to size viable/safe?
OR
do I weld the worn portion and re-machine to size
any comments welcome
regards adrian salisbury
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chris
I set my 4 up with all the correct packers after doing what you did levelling up the chassis as a start but then spent hours repacking each location to get the door gaps anywhere near right. did you check all the mounts were level to the chassis and each other, mine certainly were not,so it was a case of deciding to cut and weld or if not more than a couple of mm out leaving as is with extra shims. I would go with bolting the body to suit the gaps and see how the doors fit,be prepared to spend a few hours on this.
I have my body off the chassis to paint underneath and powder coat the chassis so even though i have noted all the packers i am not assuming its going back as before
regards adrian
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Robin
on nothing ventured nothing gained try asking someone like TRBitz if you can buy the repair section as separate bits,Moss would be to big but John Sykes @ TRB may be be helpful
regards adrian
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I have acquired a replacement bootlid (TR4) for my TR5. The inner section that the frame bolts to is missing. Can these be bought ? The one from my TR5 is removed but rusty. I know you can get a repair section but the lid itself is fine,its just the inner section with the lock etc. Any thoughts helpful,
Regards
Robin
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Hoping to get out next year (assuming the never ending rebuild gets completed)and do a few sprints/hill climbs for fun
At a point were i need to decide on the front and rear suspension spec's but having spoken to well known suppliers each has their own views which does not seem to have a commonality.
So was hoping you guys out there doing such events may point me at what works and what does not. Do not worry about giving secrets away do not think i am a FTD driver by any means.
spec of car so far is as follows
body rebuilt with full set of alloy wings,bonnet,boot,surrey top,roll bar
rear suspension/axle: LSD, DAS 10 adj lever shocks,nylon bushing: need advice on what springs to use ie poundage rate,need for lowering blocks?best suppliers and ARB if needed?
front: quick rack, adj shocks, camber adustment,nylon bushings: again what length & poundage springs to use and ARB diameter plus who is the best supplier
Chassis apart from new brackets for the DAS 10 shocks the usual uprating mods
any info on above would be beneficial as I am currently stuck on this
regards Adrian Salisbury
New Wings.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
there are some NOS panels on ebay you might not have seen