I used to have one of those!
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Posts posted by I used to have one of those!
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Hi Simon,
I had given up hope to sort mine. I only need the centre chrome ring as someone used a screwdriver to to try to free the horn push and butchered the chrome ring not just scratched the chrome.
I have bought another unit identical to TR one in every way except for no chrome ring round the horn push. Did the early ones not have it?? The guy I bought it from did not mention it at the time and sold it as TR 2.
Rgds
Rod
Hi Rod
It sounds to me as if someone had the same problem as you and removed it.
All sidescreen TR control heads are essentially the same, excluding the adjustable type which had a noticable longer spigot to the rear. They all had the chrome ring around the button.
The Mayflower unit (and steering wheel) is identicle, including the chrome ring. I have never seen one without it fitted to a Mayflower, and I have seen quite a number. Obviously, they can be removed which is what you have. Mayflowers used to be a good source for replacement units, but over the years I have found them harder to find than TR ones.
In truth, it would be more accurate to say that the TR range is fitted with the Mayflower setup, not the other way around, as Mayflowers were earlier. A production cost saving no doubt. The column is also similar, but very different in length.
You can tell if a unit is TR or Mayflower by the date stamped on the rear flange. Mayflower production ceased in1953.
There are two types of cancellation ring, shrouded and open.The split type has the capability of opening out and therefore become useless. I know that it is very diificult to close up an opened split one, also to correct an out of shape ring of either type.
I have attached a photo of the two types.
Just one bit of advice on removing the chrome ring. When removing, you really need some sort of conical former to keep the ring in shape and expanded, otherwise the button will stick. Alternatively, use the button fitted on the outside to stop the ring distorting while you prize open the tabs.
I should write all this down for future generations!
Hope that helps, Simon
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Hi Ian and All.It maybe too late for you Ian, but I have accumalated quite a few spares for sidescreen control heads.
Also good knowledge of disassembly and assembly and have probably handle 30 or 40 units over the years.
I always keep a supply of parts to mend broken units that I come across.
It's usually the same bits that get broken - the raised sides on the stalk holder, the central core after use of force, and of course the front face where people try to remove it by levering it with a screwdriver, rather than undoing the 3 grub screws located on the back of the steering wheel boss.
The grub screws can become very difficult to remove and, in desperation, I have used force to remove them, knowing that I had the part to repair it. Still makes me cringe doing it though!
Recently, I was fortunate to locate (in the US) a small hoard of parts, enough to make 6 complete units actually, with parts to spare.
I don't normally let the parts go as I know I will need them, but if I have duplication, I will for people who are desperate! As it is usually the same bits that break, they are the ones that run out first unfortunately.
I have never inspected a repro' one, but usually repro' items follow closely the original design. However, if they are anything like the repro' peardrop overdrive switches, small things will be different and require alteration, not least of which metric threads.
The units did vary slightly over the years but nothing that affects application. I have noticed that the cancellation ring can be open of closed. Don't worry about all of the spares holes. The base plate is used for many applications, notably the Triumph Roadster, hence the surplus mouldings towards the bottom.
Hope that helps!
Regards Simon Westlake
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Hi
A bit late I know, but this is what I know which may help.
I came across a "rogue" inlet manifold which was in amongst some other TR stuff.
The number cast on the underside of the balance tube is 302134.
Very, very similar to TR but some obvious differences as well.
No extension to accomodate the accelerator cranked lever, large boss tapped for two bolts on the cross tube, noticeably increase angle to carb mount.
It is the log type, high port and has exactly the same spacing between the ports on both engine and carb side. Four stud fixings for H6's.
After some research, I have subsequently established that it is off a Vanguard Sportsman.
It is mentioned in Bill P's Original book on page 68, so TR would appear to be a common transplant, although it is the first time I have come across one.
I have always understood that the correcting angle of the float bowl brackets on a TR were unique, which would support what has already been said.
There are two pronounced plinths on the underside on my manifold where presumably it sits on the exhaust manifold. Use on a TR would need very significant alteration because of this, also because of the linkage set up and inclination angle.
Tried to attached pictures that show what I have described including a TR manifold (302118 Le Mans type to be precise) for comparrison which clearly shows the angle difference.
Thanks Simon Westlake
PS It is of no use to me if someone wants to make me an offer.
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............never thought I'd see the day, but here it is 'TR2 Breaking For Spares'- 'REMEMBER YOU ARE BIDDING ON A INDICATOR BULB'! Bizarre advert and photo combination
Cheers
Andrew
I made enquiries about this car and spoke to the owner at quite some length.
He seemed genuine enough and quite a reasonable guy to deal with.
He has had the remains of this car for a very long time, but now has to sell. I forget the circumstances. Loss of space I think.
However, there is no paperwork or ID with this "car" at all and so may be on another vehicle now for all we know.
Therefore, it is just a pile of parts, unless you are intending to "plant" another one on it from somewhere, God forbid.
There is a tub (which is in two halfs and apparently very poor, although I haven't seen it) plus a chassis that will go again and a good front apron.
The lack of bids isn't surprising really as the listing is a touch misleading as you aren't bidding for what is in the photos.
I don't think that there is any interior, seats, dash, engine?, gauges, panels etc etc etc and so is pretty incomplete.
Spares only then really.
Simon
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Hi All
Can anybody advise me, with certainty, if and how it is possible to tell the difference between original and repro' TR4A/5 front wing side/indicator light units?
I have just aquired a pair in extremely good condition, but as they have previously been fitted to a car, it made me wonder if there was a chance that they were factory.
My opinion is that they are probably too good to be originals, but thought it wise to check, as I would imagine originals in this condition would be worth far more than repro's.
Those of you who know me personally, will also know that I am far more at home with sidescreen parts!
Thanks for any help!
Simon Westlake
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Hi, my name's Jack, I'm 16 and live in NJ, USA. Been in the business of restoring a Morris Minor since 13, got a brand new project this birthday- Alfie, the TR3.
Actually not looking like that now! Came (contrary to the photo) with an engine, gearbox, lots of other parts, but not quite everything to complete. I took the body off, and have the chassis on blocks with the rear wheels off- I had the intention of removing the brakes, but I ran into a sticky patch. Can anyone help?
My car is #47somethinghundred, but I'm not sure which hub system that is. I removed the castellated nut, plain washer and am stuck; there's now the hub in the way, and it won't come off, so I can't get the drum off. I read that you need a special tool to remove the hub. Is this true?
Incidentally, the shipper- since that photo was taken- smashed the front panel, splitting it at the top of the grille hole and denting it (as well as denting the wing behind). I hear it's really expensive, that panel- is it worth going after the shipper?
Hi Jack
Again, welcome to the world of TR's!
These postings are like watching one of those films, you know, where the control tower has to talk down a jumbo jet, after all of the crew have got food poisoning, and the only person left to fly it has a huge chip on his shoulder because his Father caused the death of his best friend in the war - it's great!
I'm not very mechanically, so cannot help with most of this stuff as I have no idea what you are talking about. However, one thing concerns me - I thought ALL TR's were called Trevor, except the 5 I owned which was called Ronny?
On a serious note, you are the right side of the "pond" for spare parts. There is still loads and loads of TR stuff your side and I wouldn't have thought that a replacement front panel would be that hard to find. However, I agree that it doesn't sound too bad, more annoying really, so I would have a go at compensation from the shipper - he should be insured.
16!
Good luck Simon Westlake
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Hello.
I guess that in my TR3A steering column there is some piece missing between the two sections of the outer column, as you can see in the attached picture.
Can you give me some hint on the missing part?
Thank you in advance.
Jesus
Hi Jesus
Probably repeating quite a bit here, but here goes.
You have parts from two types of column. A central core from a rigid or solid type and the top and bottom pieces from the split type. The split type of core had a clamp to join the top and bottom half together and is fitted between the sections.
One thing to look for - the adjustable type of collumn had a longer stator tube to account for the movement, also the horn boss had a longer spigot. I may be dreaming this, but I am sure that the adjustable type of collumn has a larger diameter spindle so that it has more mechanical friction to clasp.
Also, not mentioned in any books to my knowledge, is a fourth type of column - adjustable and split. I know it exists because I removed one from a car about 2 months ago.
Thanks Simon
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Does any one on the forum own or have you seen one of these rare options? I thought it would be great to have one or to reproduce one and use it to store spares. If you have any details regarding these items, dimensions, materials, etc, I would be greatful if you could share any information.
Cheers,
Frank
Hi Frank
It is possible I can get photos of such a thing!
I have never personally seen or handled one, but I did come across an extraordinary person in the USA who told me he had one. I say extraordinary, because he had early TR items which bordered on the mythical - suitcase, early spindly jack, original spats, aluminium panels etc. Stuff you just don't come across.
I was in correspondence with him as at the time I had part of a TR2 Grand Touring Kit (door handles) which he eventually bought from me.
He was a pretty illusive guy but I could try.
Thanks Simon
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Hi
I am sure that if you can find the top half of a split column you can keep all of the control head and steering wheel gubbings the same after a rack and pinion conversion. I have a couple but they are both for a adjustable steering wheels.
I came across a TR2 many years ago that the "owner" (a dodgy dealer after a quick buck) wanted me to sell on his behalf. He had got a back street garage convert the car to RHD using the LHD box. The car was downright dangerous to be honest and I refused of course. He sold the car through auction and I came across the lucky new owner a few years later who of course had to undo all of the bad work.
My advice is to get the original parts if you can, even if they need overhauling.
On the subject of RHD conversions, has anybody ever listed all of the parts that were different. There are more than you think. Everybody nows about the obvious - dash, pedals, steering box etc - but there are some real obscure parts as well. Here's a few to get you going:-
- wiring loom
- swop tipping seat over (TR3/3a)
- headlights lenses
- dip switch bracket
- column clamp bracket under dash and in engine bay (split column)
- tonneau
- small gauge positions
- brake and clutch pipe lines
- blanking plates (inside bay where column passes through the bulkhead or rather doesn't)
- wiper arms
- gauge cables
Any others excluding TR4?
Simon
- wiring loom
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Hi,can anyone tell me if it is possible to fit a dolly sprint overdrive box or alternatively just use the overdrive in a TR2/3? ( did they use A, J or both on dolly sprints) I know it's been done on a tr6. thanks.
Hi Ken
Not sure about the Dolly bit, but I do know that if you intend to convert a non o/d box you need the correct main shaft as it is very different (shorter). These are harder to get hold of than the o/d itself in my experience. Also, pre and post TS26824/5 shafts are different I think due to bearing changes. Mike Papworth is the man to ask.
Simon
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It has got to that time of year when I always start thinking about getting a hardtop for the car. One of the things that always stops me doing anything other than thinking about it is that at least one of the two windscreen stanchions is definitely misaligned. The top of the stanchion on the drivers side is probably a good 1/1/2 inches further back and is lower than the one on the left. (It is surprisingly difficult to measure) I know that Roger Williams talks of stanchions bending very easily, but there are no obvious signs of distortion which I would have expected if it had been bent this much.
I have measured the distance from the top rear of each stanchion to the centre of the front deutz fixing on each side and the two are virtually the same. I am therefore beginning to thing that one or both of the mounting brackets on the scutttle are misaligned. (I didn't think that the scuttle panel had ever been replaced, but nothing would surprise me)
Obviously I could adjust the fit of the hood to make up for the difference,(although I did have to have a bit of it re-sewn) but I won't be able to do that with a hardtop. Any ideas on how to check whetre the problem is and or fix it gratefully received.
Dave
Hi David
All the above comments regarding measuring seem sensible things to check first. I wondered whether you could use a DIY type laser to at least check that things were correct horizontally (or do I mean vertically?).
Also, when you have the stanchions off, just check that they are both the Dzus type. It shouldn't make much difference, certainly not 1 1/2", but may contribute. The Macy's garage link is interesting, but the easiest way to check is by looking at the back of the stanchions. Dzus ones have a slight recess around the rim of the fixing hole to accomodate the spring washer.
In my experience, the mounting plates fixed to the sides of the bulkhead are immensely difficult to remove, aggrevated by the fact that you can't access them from the back. If they have been replaced, I would imagine that they would only have to be very slightly out of level to create a big difference at the top of the stanchion.
One final option. On very late TR3a's, there were no plates at all fitted. Sounds crazy I know, but a friend of mine has such a car. He question Neil Revington about this a few years back think that his car must be wrong, but Neil confirmed that this was correct, he should know!
Failing that - aero screens, flying helmet, goggles and jacket!!
Simon Westlake
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I am rebuilding my 3a and when I acquired it the seats were a basket case.
I have acquired a set of pretty good TR4 seats and I thought that the only difference was a rectangular 'well' in the centre of the base unit. Since this wouldn't show in the finished article and I am not doing a concours job, I wasn't that bothered but now I've noticed that the TR4 seats appear to have the holes for the runners drilled on an offset, they are not parallel with the seat sides.
Is this how they all were, or have I got a pair that have been customised?
Rgds Ian
Hi Ian
Simon Westlake here.
The dish in the pan of the seat will foul on the floor without the correct runners. The runners you need are completely different to the earlier TR2/3 ones and also the later TR4/4A H frame type. They are similar to saloon ones I think which might be an option.
Also, you might find you head hitting the hood with these seats fitted as I am guessing you will be slightly higher off the floor?
I have one seat set only if you need them or a photo of them so you know what you are looking for.
Ironically, the seats you have are pretty hard to get hold off in my experience, much harder than TR2/3 ones, so selling them wouldn't be to hard I reckon.
My advice would be to find a correct set of seats and runners if you can then all issues are covered.
Simon
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I am rebuilding my 3a and when I acquired it the seats were a basket case.
I have acquired a set of pretty good TR4 seats and I thought that the only difference was a rectangular 'well' in the centre of the base unit. Since this wouldn't show in the finished article and I am not doing a concours job, I wasn't that bothered but now I've noticed that the TR4 seats appear to have the holes for the runners drilled on an offset, they are not parallel with the seat sides.
Is this how they all were, or have I got a pair that have been customised?
Rgds Ian
Hi Ian
Simon Westlake here.
The dish in the pan of the seat will foul on the floor without the correct runners. The runners you need are completely different to the earlier TR2/3 ones and also the later TR4/4A H frame type. They are similar to saloon ones I think which might be an option.
Also, you might find you head hitting the hood with these seats fitted as I am guessing you will be slightly higher off the floor?
I have one seat set only if you need them or a photo of them so you know what you are looking for.
Ironically, the seats you have are pretty hard to get hold off in my experience, much harder than TR2/3 ones, so selling them wouldn't be to hard I reckon.
My advice would be to find a correct set of seats and runners if you can then all issues are covered.
Simon
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I am just completing the rebuild of the steering box for my TR2 resto. I note the cover plate is dated September 54 which tallies with the car's age so assume it is the original one. Apart from initial problems trying to seperate the drop arm lever from the rocker shaft all seem to have gone to plan. I'm using the Revington cover plate as I haven't renewed the cam which seems OK. Anyway my question is, should I grease or oil the outer surface of the stator tube which presumably stays static whilst the inner steering column moves around it or should I leave it dry. I haven't attempted to remove the stator tube from the inner column yet and note the Haynes book refers to anti rattle springs. (Not the anti rattle ring between the inner and outer column) Do they come out with the stator tube or do they remain within the inner column ? Is there any problem or knack needed in getting the stator tube back inside the inner coulmn and correctly located against the anti rattle springs wherever they may be or does it all just slide back together ?
Any advice gratefully received as hopefully this will be the only time I will do this job.
Thanks in advance
Trevor.
Hi Trevor
Simon Westlake here. I have never personally had a problem removing or installing a stator tube. The main problem I have come across is removing the wiring loom to the control head (horn boss) as they always seem to be stuck solid inside the stator.
I have a couple of the spring clips/washers that Stuart mentions if you need them. 07977 258506
Thanks Simon
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Hi Jim
A word of encouragement is in order!!
Fair play you Jim and don't give up!
I have supplied quite a few spares to people from "down under" - OZ, NZ, Tasmania etc and it never ceases to amaze me how determinind you guys are, against the odds, to complete your restoration projects.
Some of the parts you need are run of the mill to us over here, but they must be incredibly hard and expensive to source out there.
Even simple things like brackets, fittings etc must be a nightmare.
I have dealt with Stuart before, and he is undoubtably one of the good guys, therefore his advice will be sound.
Let me know if there is anything anybody wants out there and we (the club members?) may be able to put a package together to help.
Thanks Simon Westlake (ebay tr2-6bits)
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You should e-mail Mike Ellis, the Registrar for the TR2/3, as well. Between Bill and Mike, you should get any history.
Ian Cornish
Thanks Ian, I'll do that.
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You may have seen a TR2 for sale in Traction recently - SKV 657. Well, I now own that car.
I realised that with a Coventry reg. no. like that, there was a fair chance that it had some works significance and shot straight up the motorway to Stockport and bought it!
Those of you in the know will realise that it is the next reg. no. in the sequence of the TR3 "trio" press cars SKV 654 -6.
However, mine is definitely a TR2 (TS8189 O) and was first registered by the Standard Motor Co Ltd on the 16/10/56. That's very, very late for a TR2 and probably the last one registered.
I am trying to establish what the factory used the car for during the previous 13 months from when it was made in late 1955. The previous owner thought it was a developement car of some sort which seems likely.
Is there anybody out there who has any info or knowledge about this car. I have informed Bill Piggott who will inspect it shortly. Also a factory trace is on the way which might shed some light.
Any help would be appreciated.
Simon Westlake
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I am rebuilding a TR3a and have just seen the attached photo (see link) with a substantial tubular bar bolted across the front of the engine.
My car doesn't have one, Is this a standard part that was removed by a previous owner and never replaced or is it a bolt on extra?
And if I should have one, where can I get it from?? - any ideas?
Advice pls?
Rgds Ian
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb315/T...nt=P1000398.jpg
Ian,
Simon Westlake here, you've bought parts off me before, RHD stuff I think from memory.
I have a correct TR2-3B cross tube if you want one. Call me on 07977 258506 to arrange.
Regards Simon
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Yes, I agree with Harry. According to my records MM is from either a 2500TC or 2500S.
I did some research on engine numbers when I bought my TR5 which had a similar thing. It had the initials MG (not that MG!) stamped on the engine.
This denotes it's from a 2.5PI Mk2 which make it the right wrong engine to have if you see what I mean. Importantly however, it retains it's correct cylinder head which seems to be where the power is generated from so I would try and find out what the TR250 is fitted with.
I got my information from the Triumph Club website which lists what all of the codes mean including compression ratios, torque figures, cylinder head applications, valve sizes, etc.
Good luck Simon
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Ebay item 150007305154.
This looks to be a very tidy TR2.
However, this car was listed a short time ago when it was cutely named "Wonky" due to the fact that one headlight was lower than the other! The reason for this was blamed on a poorly made reproduction front apron.
I pointed out to the seller in a question to him, that every TR I had come across before displaying this trait had had either serious chassis misalignment problems or something was grossly adrift in the suspension department.
I asked him to confirm that this was not the case with this car before I made the 400 mile round trip to view it.
I never recieved a response to my question and I note in the relisting that all reference to cute old "Wonky" has dissapeared without trace making me wonder if I had touched a nerve.
He has not owned the car long and did not do the restoration work, although he claims it is his favourite out of the eleven(!) or so cars that he owns.
Also, he seems to have come under attack from prospective buyers for not declaring himself as a trader, something he strenously maintains he is not. However, under list 150002852053 I see the same car is up for hire to the public so presumably he must have some sort of trade insurances etc
He makes great play of his 35 positive feedbacks but as they are private we have no idea what they are for - cars or underpants?
Caveat e'mptor!!
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in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi Ash
I too have lots of original disc wheels, both early and late.
Also, a few sets of original wheel nuts.
Regards, Simon Westlake