jake_a
-
Content Count
287 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by jake_a
-
-
3 or 4 years ago during the hottest summer in France since records began I found myself stripping the interior of out my 6 somewhere in the Dordogne so that I could get to the top cover of my gearbox. Why?
I didn't know it at the time but a problem has develop whereby sometimes when I put the car in reverse the 'fork' (it doesn't look like the 'proper' selector forks, its more like a 'cup') that is meant to hold the fulcrum pin on the reverse operating lever actually pops over the top of it, thereby locking the gearbox solid.
After 3 further experiences I got so p*ssed off that I put the car to bed for a while. 2 years later I've decided to sort the problem but being on a tight budget I need to know if I can adjust anything or whether a replacement top cover is required?
Anybody else had this problem? How did you sort it?
Jake
-
Sorry, should have said, car is a 1971 USA car still on Strombergs.
Thanks for the tips, am going to give her another go tomorrow after a set of new plugs and some new fuel.
Jake
-
Right. My TR6 of 15 years has never been particularly pampered as such. She'll get driven into the garage in September, turned off, and left as is. I'll start her at Xmas for 5 mins, and then expect to drive her out in April (which she has always done bar the occassional stuck clutch plate..............).
However, this time its been two years. I've started her every 6 months (which she does after 10-20 turns of the engine) but this last time she wasn't having any of it. After 5 mins of turning her over she eventually started BUT very roughly with a very high pitch "chirrup" through the exhaust (and audible through the engine) on each full turn, and sounded like she was only firing on 5 cyls. I put fresh petrol in and let her tick over up to operating temperature (during which the "chirrup" is hardly noticeable) but once I depress the pedal the noise comes back in full efftect.
Any ideas?
Jake
-
I am usising NGK 5ES . Are these considered to be too hot?
Also if I were to change to Super 4s what type number is best?
Thanks
Have fitted the NGK BPR5ES plugs to my 2000 (thought I'd risk them in a £1,000 car first rather than a £8,000 car!) and bugger me what a difference!
So much smoother, so much more power, less smoke (!), less pinking, etc, etc. There was a mixture of Bosch and Champion in there, god knows how long they had been there.
Any views on whether the 5's will be too hot in the long term, I might get 6's for my TR6.
J
-
Hi,
I've searched for this topic in the archive but the link I found didn't work.
I have a 1972 US spec (Dec '71 build) TR6 (which is still on Strom 175s) and a 1972 2000 (on Strom 150s).
My local garage (which used to be a Triumph dealership) swears by NGK plugs (i.e. nothing else will do).
However, they couldn't tell me which ones I should use......
I've got my hands on 6 NGK BPR5ES which I intend to use in my 6.
The questions are:
*Anyone else using these in their 6?
*What is the 'standard' NGK plug for a 6?
*Will these do for my 2000 too?
Jake
-
Ebay is where I always get the tyres for my 2000 and TR6, for example:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/185-70-15-VR-Pirelli...1QQcmdZViewItem
Jake
-
Thanks Dave, that's brilliant!
Eli
I can vouch for JDO, I've had two a speedo and a tacho fixed and both seemed to be back with me before I remembered even posting them.
They also re-set mileages to whatever you require........
-
Hi,
Don't worry for a second about the bracketry, piece of p*ss. When rebuilding my TR6 10 years ago Geoff Owens (Llangollen Motor Museum, rebuilt his Dad's TR International Concourse winning TR4) managed to knock up something from scratch in about 4 hours using a Triumph 2000 mounting rubber (I converted from J to A). Its never needed touching since!
Jake
-
Hello all,
Can someone answer two questions for me.
Firstly, on the later (post 73/74) smiths speedos and rev counters there are markings on the bottom part of the dial face (for example a speedo I have in front of me has RVC 2414/00AF on it). What does this actually mean when broken down?
Secondly, Rimmers have said that if I phone them and read out the numbers on the collected speedos and rev counters I have collected over the years they can tell me what they fit (I have TR6, 2000, and Dolomite examples, but don't know which is which!). This leads me to believe there is a list somewhere which would be very useful to have and share, anybody got one?!
Cheers
Jake
1971 TR6
-
Thank you one and all! When it stops p*ssing it down I'll venture into my shed and use one (or all!) of the methods outlined.
J
-
Hi Jake, got any Tippex or light touch in paint, mark the starting place, again every 5 on one edge and every 10th along whole length.
Hi, can you explain that again to me, along the whole length of what?! Every 10th what?!
Jake
-
Divide the number of teeth on the pinion into 38 and that will be the ratio. If you have 11 teeth on the pinion that will equate to 3.45. Perhaps that will help you .
Yeah, know that trick, but its bloody hard to count the pinion teeth when its all still in one piece!
Jake
-
Hi all,
I'm new to this forum but have been in the club (on and off) for the 14 years I've owned my TR6 (after learning by my mistakes after a year in the TR Drivers Club............).
Anyway, my six is a '71 US import and as such has a 3.7 diff fitted.
I have a replacement unit (inmy shed) that I was sold years ago as being 3.45. However it is stamped MEC (ex saloon 3.7 prefix if I'm not mistaken) and has yellow painted on one output shaft (again, 3.7 colour coding?).
Does anyone know what the number of teeth on the crown wheel should be for a 3.7 and a 3.45? My diff has 38 teeth (I split it today) and the diff is clearly marked (by chalk pen) 3.45 and the vendor was adamant it was a 3.45.
Perhaps its been rebuilt?
Anyway, suggestions please people.
Jake
Engine Diagnostic Required - Stuck Valve?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
By means of a squirting a cleaner through them or by stripping them down? Please say the former should suffice!
J