jake_a
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Posts posted by jake_a
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Better than me as well !
Just to mention, the vertical frame supports either side of the fuel tank, I see someone has cut the gussets at the bottom to fit speakers. Those gussets are important for stiffening the rear tub... if you could bear to bolt in some replacements, would be worthwhile...
What! you're thinking, take out the back panel again, I should cocoa
Ivor
Ahh. I see what you mean about the vertical frame supports either side of the fuel tank. I've never noticed that before (and I've had the car 16 years) but comparing it to other cars I see what you mean.
Obviously welding would be a right pain as most of the nearby trim would need to come out (including rear wheel arch covers!), but do you think bolting a brace in would be effective? And would the missing metalwork really be noticeable in terms of body solidity?
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Oh yeah, and furflex comes up a treat in the washing machine; seriously! 40 degrees and a bit of colour fast persil then on the washing line. Just like new.
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cheers for the replies, my clocks are the early type off a 150bhp so not chromed.
I was thinking of getting the bezels black polyester powder coated, should be good forever then. I was n't sure what to use as a sealant between the bezel and the glass, but slack silicane seems to be what others had used. I was also thinking of using a rubber o- ring but will have to experiment a bit with this option.
I also noticed that on one of the clocks the blue plastic cover which sits over the clock lightbulb had disintegrated, does anyone know if these are replaceable???
I have replaced the blue plastic cover (aka the backlight lens/filter) before using the backlight from a scrap gauge, a modelling knife, and some super glue.
As for the bezels, don't go overboard! A rub down, a spray of primer, and then a couple of coats of satin black enamel paint is more than enough.
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My 74.5 has the chromed bezels with black paint on the surface closest to the glass. My small gauges had held up well but the speedo and tach needed work. I stripped them down and repainted the cases and after removing the caulking and glass from the bezels I removed the black paint and sent the bezels off to be re-chromed. When they came back I re-applied the black paint to the inner surfaces. I re-assembled the glass with some 3M black strip sealant, the same stuff I used between the inner and outer fenders.
It has been a few years and they still look good. Great care needs to be taken when removing the innards as the plastic pointers on the big dials are very brittle so just leave them alone..
Stan
Good grief, how much did it cost to get your bezels rechromed?!
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My TR6 was my daily drive for 2 and a half years from May 1993. I used to park it outside Birkenhead Tech College (where I worked) every day with no additional security other than the door locks. I did have a hard top but it was such a pain to take on and off that I went with the hood all year round.
The only nasty moment came when I did a 360 degrees spin in the middle of a 3 lane roundabout by blipping the throttle slightly in the rain. From that moment on I knew that the stories of people putting bags of sand in the boot to give extra grip were true!
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Sorry, fotopic problems! Piccies posted tonight; promise.
And thanks for the cabin pics, appreciated.
J
**UPDATED**
As promised! Piccies start here:
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p58300783.html
and the finished job:
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p58300321.html
I'll post some top tips later but the best one I can give is..........get your wife to do the wheel arch covers! Seriously, she's done a great job! She used to work as a student putting trim on gear knobs and the like so I figured she would be better than me at it; and she was!
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Time Warp TR6.
This TR has just been restored after having been off the road since 1991 (Dry Stored). It has an original rust free chassis and fully restored body shell. The reconditioned engine has only covered 500 miles since 1991. Fitted with new Prestige injection system to include reconditioned metering unit, Bosche fuel pump, and new diaphragm pressure regulator, injectors etc. Coupled to this I have fitted superior CP throttle bodies. Excellent gearbox with overdrive on 2nd 3rd & top. The Brakes have been fitted with new discs, calipers & pads. A new servo has also been installed. Steering has solid rack mountings & poly bushes for sharper steering. Both front & rear bumpers have been re-chromed. The interior has been fully restored. The seats have been re-foamed & recovered in original style material. There are new carpets, under felt and boot lining etc. The cooling system has been improved by fitting a Kenlow fan & separate thermostatic switch in bottom hose.
This TR comes with a full history file, 6 months tax, 12 months mot & TR action magazines dating back to 1991.
Price £11,995 o.n.o.
Photos can be viewed at http://s560.photobucket.com/albums/ss49/TimothyK/
When viewing photos please note that car is shown minus hood & frame. This because the I am waiting to hear from the trimmer who will shortly be fitting a new hood to my restored frame.
For More information contact Tim Kerridge, The Old Forge Car Restoration, tel 01747811881 or email theoldforge@hotmail.com. Website: www.theoldforgedorset.co.uk
Surely "Time Warp" applies to an unrestored car, not one that has been fully restored?
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In a bit of a quandry really, got some painted wires on my US TR6 and they really could do with a bit of tidying up. However I was out at the weekend and the car was vibrating quite badly through the steering wheel prompting me to think that they are also in bad need of balancing. After reading various articles and posts on balancing wires it would not seem to be that simple a job.
Question is would it be best to have my existing wheels balanced and repainted ( are they easy to repaint yourself ) or would it be better to go for a new set of possibly chrome wires any suggestions where in the London area ?
Jerry
In 17 years of TR6 motoring with the same wires I've never had any problems in getting them balanced, even by Kwikfit? Don't know what you are referring to?
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Hi all,
Stage 2 of the new interior for my 6 this weekend - fitting the rear trim and carpets, including the wheel arch and b post covers.
Could anyone direct me to any pictures of their cars (or even post some up here) showing what you think is a good and correct fitting of the trim and carpets (the final finish, not how you did it) at the back of the cabin? I'm especially interested in screw locations.
Cheers
Jake
ps in the John Skinner trim kit which arrived today there is 2 more pieces of foam than I expected; as well as the foam backing for the wheel arch covers there are 2 long straight thin bits of foam, they almost look like inner sill covers, but I guess they aren't. Any ideas?
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At 40 years old I've just purchased my first TR6 and now find myslef on a steep learning curve getting to grips with the basics! In the interim I'm looking for a reputable engineer within the Birmingham area that I can use for some of the more complicated tasks that are beyond my capabilities. Any recommedations would be greatly appreciated!
Nice looking car, same colour as mine!
So far as engineers go I don't know any in Birmingham but TR Bitz isn't a million miles away (Lymm), and Jigsaw Racing have recently moved to Corby. Having used both over the last 16 years of ownership I am happy to recommend them.
Jake
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I haven't tried this myself, but how about wetting/soaking in water
to soften them and make them more pliable, secure them somehow
with the 90 deg bends then let them dry out in that position?
AlanR
Thought about that but it seems a bit extreme! Steaming them seems like a good middle ground but I haven't got a sauna!
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Having wrecked a couple of repro cardboard trim sets in the past, does anyone have any hints on how to get the 90 degree bends that are required in the boot and radiator cowl trim sets without splitting them?
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Ouch! Time to bite the bullet I guess.............
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Yes, fitting couldn't be easier. Just clean off all the crud from the previous cover, fit to frame and attach flaps to the inside of the frame with duck tape - no glue involved!
Any idea on cost?
J
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This is an example of the TR Shop product as fitted to my TR6 about 2 years ago - good quality and fit.
I like that. A lot. Did you fit it yourself?
Jake
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Hi Tim,
I recently purchased some new front flasher lens. Unfortunately they were US models. Thanks for the idea, I can use them now.
Cheers
Tony
It is indeed a good idea. You watch, the value of US spec lenses and units will shoot up now!
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There are 2 different holes in the seat mounting holes (where they bolt and pivot to the floor mounted frames). Is there a standard one to use or is it down to personal taste?
The handles on my seats always seem to foul the trim on the b post strengthening brackets?
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Ok, I need a replacement H frame for my 6 and do not want a, frankly, ridiculous looking leather trimmed one.
Are people saying that there is a modern alternative (not replacement) to the original H frame?
Or does anyone know where I can get a good 2nd hand one?
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Don't understand why these haven't been remade? There are thousands of ex-USA cars (including mine) that are running around with mangled USA spec lamp units that always play up at MOT time.........
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This seems like a suitable place to ask if the top plate off a Dolomite Sprint gearbox is the same as (and therefore suitable to fit to) a TR6?
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Ok. Piccies. Please tell me if you think I have got anything in the wrong place, etc.
Starting point
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758296.html
test fitting Rimmers underlay
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758299.html
I found this the best way to fit the sill carpets; secure in the right position using the furflex door aperture seals and then clip the carpet up and away from the metalwork using clothes pegs
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758300.html
Then put the contact adhesive on the metalwork and underside of the carpet and allow to dry for the required time
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758301.html
Then glue sill carpet down and move onto the gearbox tunnel underlay. This was glued in place with contact adhesive again
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758302.html
Picture of the already glued in place bulkhead carpet (is this the right place for the speedo cable to come through on a RHD vehicle?)
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758303.html
Carpet then fitted over the underlay, secured with carpet tape, and then clamped down with H frame
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758304.html
And the t'other side
http://jacob-atkinson.fotopic.net/p57758305.html
J
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I took my 6 to France during the hottest summer for 20 years, the one when all the OAPs died in France because their families had gone off on the traditional Paris break and left them in the roasting 105 degree heat. I think it was 5/6 years ago.
Anyway, first of all my battery boiled due to a mixture of heat and a failed voltage regulator on the alternator. We didn't know what it was, we could just smell a horrible eggy smell that burnt our throats and eyes; boiling battery acid. I thought I'd run over something that was rotting under the car........
That episode became fondly remembered when the gearbox then seized. On the hottest day of the year. In the midday sun. In an area with no shade. TR GB talked me through opening up the 'box (something I'd never done before) like air traffic control talk in an inexperienced pilot. As I tightened up the last bolt on the gearbox I virtually passed out from fluid loss.
So yeah, it can be fun!
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I had a trunnion go on me in a girlfriend's Spitfire 13 years ago, not a pleasant experience. Luckily I too was going slowly; the suspension embedded itself in the road, I dread to think what would happen if one went at speed.
I replaced the trunnions on my TR6 15 years ago and am always paranoid about them going so each service/MOT I ask them to check and they tell me they are fine. A definate weak point on our cars................
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I know it is a silly question, especially as my car was originally LHD and is now RHD (so I should know), but am I correct in presuming that the column mounted indicator/overdrive/light switches swapped sides on LHD/RHD TR6s? And if they did, why? Triumph skimped on money when they shouldn't have and, it would appear, spent it when it wasn't necessary! As far as I know modern European cars don't swap the switches over for the UK market?
I can't remember if I fitted the correct switches for a RHD car when I converted mine all those years ago and I recently bought an upper steering column purely for the overdrive switch so have a pair of spare light/indicator switches which I'll either sell or fit to my car if the ones that are on are US spec.
Jake
I want a TR6
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I can only speak for my lovely Mary (a 1971 US import) but in 16 years she has cost me peanuts. Virtually everything I have spent money on has been through choice (i.e. virtually nothing has "broken") and she has never needed more than £50-£100 spending to get through an MOT; she usually passes first time.
Even the restoration I commissioned cost £4,000 including a bare metal respray and conversion to RHD.
Insurance is dirt cheap, she's tax free, I do the oil changes myself, she gets a full service every 3 years which costs no more than £500, and the engine hasn't needed anything more than aforementioned oil and service in 25,000 miles (apart from a clutch).
Basically the cheapest car I've ever owned.