jake_a
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Posts posted by jake_a
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The TR shop stainless sports system is a direct replacement for the standard system (although it obviously has a different silencer arrangement). It comes complete with downpipes that mate with the standard cast manifold. I'm delighted with mine and think it is a bit of a bargain at the current price. Just be aware thought that you'll need a fitting kit with hangers, gaskets and clamps etc which is around £15 extra.
Rob
Excellent, thank you lads!
Two last quick questions.
1) does it have the 2 seperate silencer boxes that come out in the middle of the rear of the car?
2) how do the pipes mount in the middle? I think some attach to the rear gearbox mounting? If so I may have problems as I have an A type chasis with a J type O/D box that is mounted via a saloon rubber mounting. I don't know if this will cause any problems, or I may be totally wrong about how it mounts!
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Hello all,
I have had a twin pipe stainless steel exhaust on my TR6 since it was fitted by TR Bitz 17 years ago.
The silencers are at the end of their life and I am looking at 2 options
1) having 2 new silencer units made up to fit the current system
2) buying a full new system from TR Shop in London (currently on special offer at £205)
Has anyone any experience of getting new silencer units made up for existing systems (cost, etc), and can anyone recommend anywhere in the Derbs/Leic/Northants area? And has anyone fitted a system from TR Shop? If so, who makes it, is it a single pipe system, and would you recommend it?
Cheers
Jake
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That's all it is Jake, spin and BS. They, (car dealers), apparently have the need to do this as they believe it's the only way to sell their cars. Not every car dealer is like this I hasten to add, but they get tarred with the same brush. I bought my TR6 from a chap that works for a dealership..
After gathering all the information from the guy's here on the forum, I don't think I would have if I had known what I know now. The moral is...TR owners are not daft, it's the new TR owners who need to be careful out there..
Cheers
Tony
I bought my TR6 from a Ford dealership in Rawtenstall, Lancashire (Taylors for those who know) 18 years ago. Christ knows why they had a Texan re-import in their showroon?! Glad they did though.........
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As My paint is now metallic, (as is Ivors), does this mean our cars are now 'rare'.....
Tony
I contacted them and they said they had no idea if the colour was an original colour. I asked how they could therefore call it "rare" if it wasn't an original shade. They didn't like that...........
Why do Car Dealers have to put more spin in their adverts than even Mandleson would be comfortable with.....................?!
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Has anybody considered what may happen with the S/S duct and a minor front end bump - rad core being punctured!!
Roger
Erm, to be honest that would be the last of my worries in such a collision!!!
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Yes, but it's pretty difficult to avoid getting dirt on the splines.
Ivor
Not if you put a freezer bag and rubber band over the splines as you feed it back through the trailing arm..............
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Now, I am pretty certain that there were no metallic factory paint finishes on TR6 (but am willing to be corrected:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260608173048
The odd thing is is that my TR6 was painted in EXACTLY the same metallic colour when it came back from the states in 1991.
Was there a restorer who used the colour in the states?
Jake
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Hi all
At last after several months hibernation,a suitable lovely sunny day in Devon gave me the long awaited opportunity to go out and play with my favourite toy. During the winter months the gearbox was removed and overhauled (by me), a new clutch fitted and after much head scratching a 2.5PI A type overdrive I had acquired was made to fit.
Also a new oil pump was fitted along with oil pressure relief valve and new big end shells.
Today was the big test and I was rewarded by a lovely, but gentle blast, with my non noisy gearbox a pleasure to use and the newly added overdrive working like silk. A dream come true.
Perhaps I should add that at the ripe old age of 66 I had never done any of these jobs before, but did find the TR Technicalities CD a great help.
Hope that other members have had similar experiences.
John
John,
I so wish my Dad was like you! He is a similar age to you, and was an engineer in his youth, yet had palpatations when I suggested that we changed the DRIVESHAFT on his (and now my) TR6 15 years ago to save some money. He now has a Dolomite 1850HL and has spent over £3,000 on work that he and I (I believe) could have done ourselves.
One day I will rebuild the engine of my car, of that I am determined. I'm only 39 now, so it may be some time in the future, but I WILL do it!
Well done to you.
Jake
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Hi Tony,
it should fit a 4A - contemporary towbars for the IRS cars were pretty much identical, except if I recall correctly the TR6 version required an extra spacer between the tow ball and main frame to clear the bumper. I've fitted TR6 towbars to earlier cars and a 4A version to a 6 in the past, it's only minor fiddling to make one fit the other.
Before anyone asks, the TR4 versions are quite different and not interchangeable with IRS units, the sidescreen car towbars are different again and similarly don't fit TR4 or later.
Cheers,
Alec
Hi Tony and Alec,
Just to clarify, this is the type that requires 2 holes to be drilled in the rear bumper. My car still carries two very discreet rubber grommets to blank the holes.
Let me check it is all there Tony and I will PM you.
Jake
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So, many years after I thought this was junked following my car's resto, I've found it again at the back of my garage.
Bought new in 1996, I have an original Witter TR6 Towbar Kit. It was fitted to my car for a French touring holiday and then removed 2 years later for the resto.
Is this worth anything? Anyone interested in it? I
Jake
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OOPS sorry I must have bought the last one just before you.
Stuart
Swine!
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Here's how I mount my single pipe system http://i620.photobucket.com/albums/tt282/peterhoath/exhaust.jpg
Now I like that. A LOT.
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TR Shop 0208 995 6621 still have them in stock although they aint cheap
Stuart.
You sure? I phoned before Xmas and he said he couldn't get them anymore................
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Having had my TR6 for 17 years, and never having given a second thought to where I buy petrol (here or continental Europe), and never having had to do anything to my (original) engine in 25,000 miles, I can honestly say it makes no difference whatsoever! Mind you, I am on Stromberg 175s..........
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OOPS!
Didnt read it properly.
You can do as Stan suggests,but its a VERY fiddly job,far easier to run the cable discretely alongside the column and secure with black cableties!
Pilkie, thanks for this mate, I wanted to avoid any fiddliness wherever possible!
I've got the correct switch and escutcheon so will give it a go.
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Hi Jake.
Did you retain and fit the original wiring with the o/d gearbox?
If so its only a simple on/off switch to allow power to operate the solenoid.
Have a good look at a wiring diagram,it shouldnt be too hard to make up a small set of wires to operate it.
Dave
Sorry Dave, I meant fit it to the column correctly (i.e how to get the wires correctly fed through, etc). All wiring is in place with the current under dash on/off switch. Thought that was implicit in my post?
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Ay up,
I bought my TR6 in 1992 fresh from the old US of A. From the moment I bought it I couldn't believe it that a car ordered for the country that invented the highway would NOT be fitted with overdrive!
When I restored it in 1996 I fitted a J type overdrive box but couldn't be bothered paying what were then very high prices for an original overdrive column switch, so I fitted a little under dash switch.
I now have the proper switch and cowl and have a simple question; how the hell do I fit it?! Any tips much appreciated.
Jake
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Ay up,
I bought my TR6 in 1992 fresh from the old US of A. From the moment I bought it I couldn't believe it that a car ordered for the country that invented the highway would NOT be fitted with overdrive!
When I restored it in 1996 I fitted a J type overdrive box but couldn't be bothered paying what were then very high prices for an original overdrive column switch, so I fitted a little under dash switch.
I now have the proper switch and cowl and have a simple question; how the hell do I fit it?! Any tips much appreciated.
Jake
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Parrafin sprayer and then re waxoyl.
Stuart.
Stuart,
Its never had waxoyl on it! Just paint over stonechip on the underside, chassis just painted. Still use the parafin?
Jake
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Any suggestions on how to properly clean the underside (body colour area is fine, just oily, dusty, cruddy!). I'm ashamed to say I've not cleaned it since it was done...........
J
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Hi all,
My 6 had its full underside sprayed body colour (including the chassis) during its restoration and I then painted the chassis black. The underside looked perfect.
However, this was 12-13 years ago and she's starting to look a bit tired underneath. There is no rust, just a bit of flaking on the chassis. I don't know whether to just paint the chassis black again or just do the whole underside properly and paint the whole lot black. Are people bothered about the underside being body colour on a ex-USA non-original car?
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Hi Jake,
most of the drive shafts have the screwy cup but it is still a good idea to retain the bellows but not essential.
The alignment of the two halves should be fairly easy even without the keyway slot.
Place the female end on a table insert the male end and do a visual assessment, Even one spline misalignment will stand out.
Roger
Sorry Roger, thought I'd made it clear that I split the drive shaft whilst on the car, i.e. the female section of the driveshaft remained on the car and I withdrew the male section to repack with grease. I agree, lining them up on a table would be a piece of piss! However, getting it perfectly lined up on the car is somewhat difficult!
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I have fitted to my car a remanufactured driveshaft. I can't remember which specialist I bought it from but it is the type where there is a screw-on cup which can slide up and down on the male part of the shaft. This screws onto a threaded section at the top of the female part of the shaft and does away with the need for the rubber bellows which are standard on the original shafts.
It also does not have the single thicker locating spline that the originals have. This means that when pushing the two halves together on the car after greasing it is very hard to ensure that the yokes on both halves are at perfect right angles. If they are one or two splines out of balance will this cause me vibrations on the car?
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A quick question; can anyone confirm with absolute certainty that the top cover (complete with selector forks) off a Dolomite Sprint gearbox is a straight swap with a TR6 top cover?
I replaced my worn TR6 cover with such a unit but ever since I did second gear does not select with anything like the certainty it did before. It goes in and doesn't jump out of gear but it feels like it is only just selecting, there isn't the satisfying firm "notch" I used to get, and still do get with the other gears.
Comments welcomed!
Jake
TR6 Stainless Steel Sports Exhaust
in TR6 Forum
Posted
And I'm using a J type on an A type chassis with a one off conversion bracket utilising a saloon J type rubber mount and bracket!
And yeah, I've heard the same about the centre brackets, I think the consensus is that you don't necessarily need them and some time it is best not to use them.