jake_a
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Posts posted by jake_a
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Hi Jake,
so you paid £8.75 inc P&P for a set of 4 hoses . . . . not a lot of money. Much as we might all wish to replace everything as needed with super duper new upgraded whatever, in the real world make do and mend is more often a budgetary necessity, tempered with common sense.
If one hose is going on your car, will the rest be that far behind ? Why not just change all 4, and renew the brake fluid. Then budget to replace with new Goodridge braided hoses in say 3 years time when the brake fluid will be due for changing again. That would seem to me to be a common sense budget approach, and you have 3 years to save up for the braided hoses, which are maybe £60+/set ?
Cheers,
Alec
True, true Alec.
I used to run my TR on much more of a budget (i.e. less money!) than I have to these days, though I'm still nowhere near the "blank cheque" position of some! When I bought the car off my Dad in 1993 I was only 22 and it was my daily drive. I used to park it in an open air car park in the middle of Birkenhead come rain or shine!
I started getting the bits together for a rebuild in 1994 and discovered that a certain TR specialist in the North of England would give me credit at a good rate if I delivered saloon gearboxes and diffs to them. Think the going rate was £100 for an o/d gearbox and £70 for a 3.45 diff.
I used to trawl the scrapyards of Manchester, Merseyside, and the Wirral for scrap 2000s and 2500s and take the bits home in my 2000 saloon with the rear seat removed. I once found a Pi and bought the entire drive train (engine and Pi equipment, box, and diff) for £40! When I'd built up a few I'd drive to the specialists, drop them off, and pick up my credit note. Said units would then be refurbed to TR spec.
In the end this paid for a recon box. recon J type od, recon 3.7 diff with new CWP, refurbed seats, and many other things. About £1500 worth of stuff for about £500 outlay. Happy days.
Jake
ps I'm sure some of you must be driving round with one of "my" units on your car!
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Cheers all. Alec, there is logic in what you say, especially about the grade of rubber (damn tree huggers
!).
They seem fine, are all boxed, and the rubber is smooth and supple (Mmmmm, smooth and supple..........).
Thing is, a front hose needs doing (been an advisory for the last 2 MOTs
) so the NOS wouldn't be a spare, it'd be going on the car! The good thing is that when I restored the car (which is ex USA) I kept the tandem braking system set-up so that I would theoretically never lose all braking, though wouldn't fancy stopping on just the rear drums...........
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So, got myself a bargain on ebay; a set of all 4 Lucas Girling NOS brake hoses for my 6.
Thing is, these are dated by a stamp on the tubing and these range from 1980 to 1984! They look fine, but I wouldn't use a tyre from 1984 so should I use a hose that is that old?
I think I've answered my own question there...................
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Now now Jake,
that doesn't quite sound like the gender equality message has got through in the family ?
Perhaps your good lady needs to meet mine, for a few gentle lessons in how to rag the arse off a TR, any TR, preferably at highly illegal speeds ?!!
Mind you, when I was a teenager my mother took up driving lessons again, thought it would be a good move to try practising in my Anglia rather than Dad's Escort GT . . . . he tended to fly off at the deep end when she crunched the gears. So she quietly experimented, on her tod, one weekend when we were at an event on private roads. Unfortunately she hadn't appreciated that the Anglebox had just acquired a blown Lotus twinkie coupled to a 5-speed Colotti-Francis gearbox, straight cut gears and no synchro. She went a long way into the scenery, did the box no damn good at all, and retrieving the stuck car took a whole squad of blokes . . . . Put her off continung driving lessons for another 15 years, thank heavens. She did pass her test in the end, fortunately she didn't continue driving.
Cheers,
Alec
Lets not go there again.............!
No, my good lady wife has a good classic car pedigree in her family. Her Dad had a V8 Rover P6 and my wife had a 2.2 P6, so she is a capable classic car driver. Indeed, our daily drive before I got my Alfa 156 was a Dolomite 1850 and before that a Triumph 2000 WITHOUT power steering. If she can drive that beast she can drive anything!
No, the reason they wont drive it again is more to do with my state of anxiety when they were at the wheel; i.e. they don't want to drive it again because they are worried about my reaction if anything happened! A bit like what you illustrate with your Dad!
Jake
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My mother and my wife have each driven my TR6 once for approximately 300 yards each. It simply served to confirm what I already knew; they will never drive it again!
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Does anyone know if any specialists are still able to supply original NOS verticle links and trunnions?
Missed this the other day, gutted:
A bargain price when you add up the cost of the individual parts. Seller was mad not to mention the trunnions in the listing.
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These are great quality and were delivered overnight!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350355487990
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IporIPpHGsk
watch it full screen and in HD
Not so much that the car is impressive, just that the whole thing is shot on an HD capable STILL CAMERA!
Took someone a LONG time to make.
Simon
At first I thought wow!
Then I started to feel slightly uncomfortable.
By the end I came to the conclusion that he probably sleeps in the garage with his car...............!
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Just start it! Its what I've done for the last 17 years at the end of a 6 month winter lay up and apart from the occasional seized clutch plates I've never had any problems and have never touched the engine other than servicing. It is possible to over complicate matters some times.......!
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One last question, how do you identify if the pinion is of the collapsible or solid spacer type?
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Hi Jake,
divide the number of crown wheel teeth by those of the pinion . . . . .
I can't remember the number of teeth on the TR 3.45cwp, but 38/11 or 31/9 for example equate to 3.45.
Cheers,
Alec
Alec,
Thank you, as ever. It is 38/11 which equals 3.4545454545 so I'm guessing that that means it is 3.45!!!
Jake
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Hi,
Can anyone tell me how to identify if a matching crown wheel and pinion set is for a 3.45 diff? How many teeth should each have?
Jake
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In preparation for getting my car back on the road I'm going round with a grease gun. At the back I've done the UJ at the rear of the propshaft. On the passenger side drive shaft there is a nipple in place. On the drivers side I cannot see a nipple, nor can I see a grub screw where a nipple might fit. Does anyone know - is it ALWAYS the case that the UJ yoke will be configured to take a nipple, or are some UJ's, perhaps more modern, designed to be non servicable?
Not all have them, you often find cars with a mixture of UJ types. I'm sure someone more knowledgable will be able to explain pros/cons and why some do and some don't have UJs.
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Hi.
This may not be politically correct, but are Towergate worth using and how do they rate with others?
Do all you guys use them or someone else?
I am just about to insure my soon to be purchased TR, so any advice would be welcome
Thanks
Not quite sure what political correctness has to do with your question??!!
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Is it one of the less desirable models?. He is wanting £9k and as I dont yet know the derivatives, the prices seem to go from £6k to £20+k.
Is it a less desirable model? No. Apart from the aspergers wing of the TR appreciation society. To anyone who looks at such things logically then it is the obvious route to go.
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d
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Tony, don't do this if you can.
I drive 6 cylinders Triumph since years, and own PI, triple webers, SUs and Strombergs equipped models : the PI are from far the best, and are very reliable if correctly adjusted and maintained.
As would said Badfrog, the Strombergs are the worst
Chris.
Been on Strombergs for 17 years and have no complaints whatsoever! And yeah, I have owned a Pi (a 2.5 Pi) so I can compare the two.
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Cheers Mike. As one of the discs in my spine decided to celebrate me turning 40 by, errr, exploding, my local Scimitar specialist will be fitting the exhaust for me so I will instruct them accordingly. Photos to follow!
Jake
ps the entire front half of the old stainless steel sports system (up to the silencers) is fine, and even the silencers are usable. Any takers (make me an offer)? I'll send a link tomorrow to a video of the old exhaust on my car.
The old system will be going on ebay on Saturday, here it is at the garage prior to being removed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj6ggQ3i28g
Open to offers prior to then.
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Just picking up on this thread as I fitted a standard SS system also from TR Shop. I agree with previous comments that its a bargain price (£195 for the standard system) and fits very well indeed. The fact that I had 3 goes at fitting it is that trying to do it lying on your back under the car (yes, axle stands where used in the making of this production) means its more difficult than for you chaps with lifts,pits etc.,
Sorry, I'm doing a Ronnie Corbett and going off the point. Which is, I too left off the centre mount as the 3 bits of metal supplied in the fitting kit beared no resemblance to anything that might attach the pipes to the overdrive unit. Subsequent test drives seem that the exhaust system is quite happy without it.
Mike
Cheers Mike. As one of the discs in my spine decided to celebrate me turning 40 by, errr, exploding, my local Scimitar specialist will be fitting the exhaust for me so I will instruct them accordingly. Photos to follow!
Jake
ps the entire front half of the old stainless steel sports system (up to the silencers) is fine, and even the silencers are usable. Any takers (make me an offer)? I'll send a link tomorrow to a video of the old exhaust on my car.
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I think it will be nigh on impossible to do anything without that gearbox cover off. Having just been there with my overdrive saga the tool you will need to undo the switch (they are very tight) is plumbers wrench or similar. If you can even reach it from below you risk snagging/damaging the wiring etc.
Go on, take the cover off. you'll soon get it down to a fine art like me!!
Mike
Mike, believe me, been there and got the T shirt! About 8 years ago my 6 decided that it would really enjoy jamming itself in reverse at the most inconvenient of times. The only fix was to take the top cover off the gearbox and reposition the reverse gear selector. Obviously to do that everything has to come out including the tunnel! The first time she did it was on a 2 week holiday on France. It was that scorcher of a summer where half the OAPs in France died of heatstroke. I had to strip the car down in 44 degree heat and no shade. I had to do it twice that day alone (it jammed again that evening). I had it down to such a fine art that I once did the whole job in Ashbourne in 25 minutes (admittedly using air tools in a friendly tyre repair garage!).
After the 8th time I got fed up and replaced the top cover (using a Dolomite Sprint cover; a quarter the price of a "TR6" item, and they are identical). I'd put off fitting an all new interior because of the fault but once fixed I fitted it, so I am loathed to take the interior and carpets out again!
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Yes gearbox cover is a bit of a fag. But I don't believe you can do anything with the switches otherwise. Not just getting the switch out, checking/removing washers, but also not b***ering the possibly brittle wiring.
As Richard says, the height is adjusted (to a degree) by removing washers.
However, having removed the H frame you can access the switch by trepanning a suitable hole in the top of the gearbox cover. Look at Buckeye for pics of the gearbox showing the switch location. Be very careful when trepanning, there isn't much clearance between the box cover and the switches/wiring. Then cover the hole with a bit of glued-on carpet or sardine tin or summat.
Ivor
Hi Ivor,
O/D wiring loom is new-ish (15 years old), and the switch doesn't need to come out, simply be turned 180 degrees, so I'm keen to avoid taking the interior out, especially as I've only just fitted a new one! Just wondering if I can fashion a tool to tighten from below the car..........
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yes.what you need is a small child with thin arms,who can handle a spanner..
i think there are paper washers on the swthches to adjust the depth.
richard
I think my wife's arms may just fit..............!
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Evening,
I think my o/d isolator switch (on the gbox cover) needs adjustment. When in o/d 4th gear I sometimes need to hold the gearstick firmly in 4th (i.e. push and hold it firmly into 4th to the limit of its travels) to stop the overdrive slipping in and out, especially when warm. I'm thinking that it is the isolator switch that needs screwing in by half a turn or so, but I DO NOT want to take the gearbox tunnel out!
Is it possible to somehow adjust the isolator from under the car without taking the car to pieces!
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Upgrade from standard USA cam to........
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'll be interested in replies to this too.