jake_a
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Posts posted by jake_a
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Has anyone fitted one of these (or similar) to one of "our" cars? This is a cracking price for a good bit of kit (thanks to the HotUKDeals website!), but just wondering about the practicalities of fitting and wiring..............
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003XDN58K/?tag=ho01f-21
Jake
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Specialist Car Products - They are near Gatwick. A very good UK reproduction company who worked to orig drawings, Hence their British Motor Heritage Approval. Makes the wire wheel adaptors too. See web page. http://www.scp-uk.com
The last I recall of OE genuine were ex Reliant (Scimitar SE5A type, same as TR4A-6) which Elite Suspensions (Coventry) were providing. They also offered the genuine V posts and lower wishbones. (All Reliant again)
Peter W
Peter,
Thank you so much! This site never fails to come up with the goods..................
Cheers!
Jake
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Ah, right, what other people have mentioned. I've got wires on my car too; I'll ask him next time why he uses it instead of his rolling road.
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Hi. The guy I take my 5 and 6 to for their MOTs doesn't use his rolling road either; nor any gauges. He simply takes the cars out onto the access road outside his premises and tests them "manually" for effect and balance. What a gent.
My tester has a gadget that he places in the passenger footwell and we go around the block and he asks me to brake and it measures the effectiveness of the brakes; he bases the pass on that. Any idea what the gadget is (its not hi-tech by appearances!)?
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I've done the usual silly bugger thing of buying something off ebay, not opening it for 6 months, and then finding that I'm a little suspicious about whether it is what the listing claimed it was (you'd think I'd learn.....).
I bought a vertical link and trunnion which was listed as new (which they are) and original (which I don't think they are). Were stanpart trunnions marked as such? The only marking this has is "SCP RH". Also, the bottom cap isn't brass, which I thought the originals were. What annoys me is that without being able to ID it I wont be able to ensure that I've got a matching part (repro or original) on the other side. Grrrr.
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" I've always assumed refurbed original is a safer bet than new repros; would you disagree? "
We're all fond of assuming that OE kit is by definition superior to modern repro component.
Unfortunately OE parts are getting on in years, and time as well as mileage can influence the condition of components. You can't keep on reconditioning for ever, many major components will already have been refurbished several times. Eventually everything wears out . . . .
A fair proportion of Stanpart TR components were ****, and it wouldn't be hard for modern repro to improve upon the original.
I used to do a lot of business, as a motor factor, with Past Parts - some 20 years ago. Excellent suppliers.
In more recent times, when I've sought their assistance I've been disappointed by the response, to put it politely.
I wouldn't have any qualms about the Moss brake product, reconditioned or reproduction - you have a choice.
Cheers
Alec
Cheers Alec, useful feedback.
Will consider carefully. Are the new ones supplied by TR Shop, Moss, Rimmers, etc, all the same make or do they vary?
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Hi Jake, i reckon i contacted them and asked for a quote for tr brake caliper refurb, it was about £350/pair, so i didnt take them up on the quote......can buy new for £115/pair.
Cheers,
Conrad.
Conrad, my quote was about £150 for the pair, and I've always assumed refurbed original is a safer bet than new repros; would you disagree?
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Really hacks me off when sellers list items with specific car model references when they simply don't fit those cars! A prime case is Kienzle clocks as fitted to Triumph saloons; the amount of times I've seen reference to TR6 in the listing has to be seen to be believed! They are simply trying it on.
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I'm looking to use these guys to do my TR6 calipers and am impressed by them so far in terms of offer and customer service. Anyone used them?
http://www.brake-caliper-painting.com/
Jake
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I've had various fabric ones, all pants, and the best ones I've ever had are a set of rubber ones from Chic Doig. And they don't ruck!
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Wow. Love this forum. Here was me preparing the 6 for her MOT tomorrow morning, finding some grim jelly-goo on the pump innards, and sure enough this forum tells me other people have had it and how they dealt with it!
On another note, I've got the older style square motor on my washer bottle lid; is there anyway of lubricating it as it is rather noisy!
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I'm not picking fault but was the overspray on the trailing arm there before? When my car had a respray (thanks to some tossbag taking a key to it) the TR Specialist (who shall remain nameless) made no attempt to mask the trailing arms/chassis legs which were silver and black respectively beforehand, and a shade of powdery red after.
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The TR6 broke down on the A14 about 10 years ago after developing a minor ignition fault. Called the AA out and the yoof who turned up in the AA van had never even seen a car with a mechanical ignition!!!! He didn't have a clue what to do.
He decided to tow us after I pointed out that TRGB was nearby. When going around a large roundabout on the A14 at a speed I deemed far too fast for towing, the towing bar came loose from the front of my car and left me stranded in the middle of a 3 fast flowing roundabout........
I cancelled my membership shortly after.
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Hi Gents
Finally finished installing my clock. What do you think?
Honestly...............?!
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A hint. When people sell things in "sets" they tend to go for less than they would in total if sold individually. So, buy the set of 3 bodies and then sell the 2 you don't need individually. Chances are you'll get your money back. I've done it many times on ebay.
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Really?
Every single car manufacturer on the planet now fits wing guards to all of their models (look under any car) what will it take to convince you?
Simon
What will it take? Any sign of deterioration of my car's under wing area after 17 years (of which there is none)!!! And my car is most definately NOT pampered, just well looked after!
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Yet to be convinced of the necessity of these things.............(and that is after 18 years!).
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The non o/d box is slightly different than an o/d box,its not as simple as just bunging an o/d on the end of it,more parts are needed as I found out.
Get a Triumph 2000/2500 saloon/Stag J type o/d box.........
My understanding is that the Dolomite Sprint box can be added to this list.
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What, tried to start it while disabled? Oh yes, and not only the TR.
Also driven off with locking wheelnut key still on wheel, radiator cap off.......
Ivor
Ah yes, did that one myself with the 6 in the middle of France about 8 years ago. This was the same trip where I had to open the gearbox up to free a siezed selector fork on the hottest day in France for 30 year, and where the top radiator hose exploded the night before we got the ferry!
Because I had fitted a complete set of hoses that I picked up from CTM Engineering before getting on the ferry, and because it was so hot, I was regularly checking the water level. I did so before taking the car out for a spin, placing the cap on the carb manifold as usual. I forgot to replace it before driving off and only realised that I had when I heard it bouncing along under the car and saw it fly off into a field of corn! Couldn't find it for love nor money.
Popped in to the tiny garage down the road and through the medium of mime managed to explain what I needed. They came back with a box of old caps (probably found in local fields!!) within which was a genuine British BL radiator cap which fitted perfectly!
Ps I have also pushed the TR back into the garage with the drivers door open so I could steer (despite the roof being down, doh!) with predictable consequences..........
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Hi more help required.Has anyone managed to replace their rear wheel hub bearings? If so how the bloody hell did you do it.Cheers in advance
Mark
Do you mean replace the rear hub unit or repair a knackered hub unit? If the latter; forget it - you'll kill yourself or someone else later down the line.
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We are undertaking a similiar conversion this being PI to Hs6 su carbs .WE have collected su and manifold from triumph 2500s and its mechanical fuel pump still working on linkages as carbs came without them We have a few possibilities will keep you posted.
Cheers!
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Just bagged myself a pair of HS6 carbs off a Dolly Sprint on impuluse from ebay. They were a good price so I thought, why not?!
I'm on 175s at present so my questions are as follows:
1) Will Sprint ones need new needles, etc, for use on the 6?
2) Can I use a 2500 saloon manifold to fit the carbs on my December 1971 CC car, and does anyone have one?!
3) Cheapest way of getting the relevant linkages
4) General power increase to be gained by simply swapping from Strombergs to SUs.
Ta!
Jake
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OK Chaps looks like a trip to the spanner shop.Cheers for your help
Mark
I find that the copper end of a copper and hide hammer can work wonders on the end of the spanner..........!
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Rear brake parts - lubrication
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'm about to build up a pair of back plates for my TR6 with all new/NOS parts. The brake adjusters are NOS and will need new lubrication adding. My question is, what lubricant should I use on the adjuster, and any other bits of the back plate set up which require lubrication? I know you need to be careful when using lubricants on brake parts!