ptjs1
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Posts posted by ptjs1
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I'm cynical enough to believe that at some point, restrictions will be placed on historic vehicles in the UK, such as happens in other countres, leading to restrictions of use. And if they all have black and silver plates, it becomes easier to identify the offenders.
My 1973 car never originally had black and silver plates. so, when the 26-year restoration is finally finished, it will have the original yellow and black plates fitted. I still might not be allowed to use it in the future in certain places, but at least it will look original.
Paul
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Mike,
The rules definitely changed last year. This is from the DVLA gov.uk site:
Vehicles that can display black and silver platesSince April 2015 vehicles manufactured before 1 January 1975 can display the older style plates. You must:
- have applied to DVLA, and
- be registered within the ‘historic vehicles’ tax class.
This allows your vehicle to retain its authenticity and be in keeping with its age.
Vehicles constructed 40 or more years ago are exempt from vehicle tax.
The 40 year exemption date rolls forward automatically each year on 1 April.
Hope that clarifies things.
Paul
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Rod,
By "white", I think Keith means the pale yellow background.
Paul
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Keith,
It's a changing area!
Your car, if registered after 1st Jan 1973, originally had yellow plates with black letters. (They had been optional since 1967)
However, the legislation has now changed, in line with the moving tax-free status for vehicles. So, all cars registered before 1st Jan 1975 can use the old black and silver plates. And that will change next year to 1st Jan 1976 etc.
So we now have a situation that some vehicles originally registered with yellow and black plates may now use black and silver plates!
Paul
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Peter,
The terraclean system runs through the fuel system not the air intake. On modern efi cars, they disconnect the fuel pump fuse / relay and then connect the system via the fuel rail.
I'm not sure where they would connect it on a TR6. I guess, (assuming a TR6 PI can be done) they would introduce it at the fuel intake to the metering unit?
Paul
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Having now decided to fully re-strip down the front suspension of my long-term restoration, I'm going to make a compressor for the removal and refit of the front springs. I remember that I followed the official Triumph Manual advice 25 years ago and just used a trolley jack for the strip and rebuild. It is interesting that the official manual said to just use a trolley jack whereas manufacturers usually err on the side of caution and recommend all the specialist tools! However, not only do I now better recognise the safety issues involved but I also remember the problems of refitting using a trolley jack to a car with no engine. It just wanted to lift the whole car up. I had to get a few people to sit on the front before eventually getting the springs in!
So, with the benefit of hindsight, the wisdom of age and the advice of nearly all members, I'm going to make a compressor for the re-rebuild. I've read all the threads available but still have a few questions:
- Everyone seems to suggest using at least M12 rod. M14 seems relatively hard to source, so is M12 sufficient or should I go for M16, which I can source easily? Will M16 more likely foul on the top or bottom?
- Is High Tensile 8.8 grade BZP acceptable or should I for an ACME thread?
- There seems to be a variety of bottom plates used by those that sell or have made such compressors. Thick alloy like the TRF one or thinner steel? Some are plain, some have the 4 holes for the shock plate nuts and some seem to have cutouts rather than the holes. Is it best to have 4 holes or would the cutouts better allow a bit of movement as it tightens up the spring? Has anyone got a template or accurate dimensions of the ideal bottom plate?
- Would studding connectors be better than nuts because of the amount of thread they cover? Is it necessary to weld together 2 nuts / connectors or can I just tighten them together?
- What size washers (thickness and diameter) should I use at the top?
Tks in advance for any suggestions.
Paul
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Tks for your initial thoughts, members.
Apart from trying to do the job only once, I know that I'm going to have to go further than just fitting polybushes. Because there is a play problem in the hub (as mentioned in a previous post), I've got to strip the hub anyway, as I can't see it passing an MoT. I can only seem to take up the play in the hub by making the hub almost too tight to turn. So I think I've got felt or bearing issues. I'm interested in the point that the grease may have congealed. And, as mentioned, the ball joint and disc have surface rust. So, if I'm stripping a 25-year old rebuilt front end and committed, as a minimum, to polybushing where possible, I've got some decisoons to make:
- Should I poybush everything - arms, spring seats, trunnion spacers etc etc?
- Whose poybushes should I fit (lots of views on suitability of Moss / Rimmers or do I pay extra elsewhere?
- Should I regrease and refit 25-year old (new) bearings or fit new ones?
- Are modern felts now acceptable? I've seem lots of threads on problem felts. Who provides the best quality ones?
- Will 25-year old (but not driven) springs have sagged or will they be ok to refit? If new ones, who sells the best?
- Same as above for shocks. Do they deteriorate after 25 years of non-use?
- Derust ball joints or just replace them?
- Will the trunnions have deteriorated because of grease hardening / no use? Regrease or just fit new ones?
- Derust and fit new (25 year old) discs or buy new uprated (vented / drilled?) ones
- Is there one source of really good quality OEM bearings / balljoints / trunnions etc?
Lots of questions, I know, and probably lots of different opinions to come. But I'm in the "measure twice, cut once" mentality at present!
Tks in advance
Paul
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Apols for long post!!
The restoration of my TR6 started 26 years ago. Once the car was completely stripped, the chassis went away to be repaired, the body was rebuilt with many new panels, painted and fitted to the chassis. At that point, I rebuilt the front suspension and reassembled the rear suspension such that the car could be wheeled about. And that was it!
25 years later, I’ve eventually managed to find some storage where the car can finally be completed. Although the body generally still looks really good, I’m going to have to get one door and the rear deck stripped and repainted due to what looks like paint shrinkage (body was rebuilt by Peter Marks in 1990).
I’ve (reluctantly) accepted that I really ought to lift the body off to fit brake and fuel lines etc before fitting the engine and box (once I’ve rebuilt the engine) and then refitting the body.
Before all of that and in order to give me some motivation and get my feet wet, I’ve decided that I’ll rebuild the front suspension first, so I’m looking for some thoughts and opinions as to the best approach. When I rebuilt it in 1990, I shotblasted and painted all the parts then fitted (from memory) new parts as follows:
- standard OE bushes
- trunnions and ball joints
- bearings
- standard springs and shocks
- new discs
After 25 years of sitting in storage the discs are rusty, there is surface rust on ball joints and some strange play in the hubs (hardened felt?). So, with a complete stripdown and rebuild to undertake, what should I replace? It’s easy for me to think that everything is unused, when in reality, although the car hasn’t moved, the parts are all 25 years old.
So, do I replace absolutely everything? I’m not really concerned about the cost of the parts I fitted 25 years ago but also don’t want to replace things if they really don’t need it. However, I do recognise that technology has moved on. I don’t want to finish the car this year (?) and then find that I need to rebuild parts of the suspension as soon as I try and drive the car.
I’m certainly thinking of changing all the bushes to polybushes, but which ones should I buy? Even with just surface rust, I’ll replace the balljoints. Should I replace trunnions? Should I fit new uprated springs and shocks? Should I fit all new bearings, felts etc? Should I fit uprated brake discs and calipers? (I’d have to beadblast the discs anyway and the original calipers haven’t been rebuilt or fitted) Whilst doing all this should I replace the unused 25-year old track rod ends and rack bushes etc?
Any and all thoughts gratefully received.
Paul
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Adrian,
Good luck with your efforts. I'll be interested to hear of your results. After restoring the body, my shell has been in storage for 25 years, but I hope to be able to start work on the rest of the resto within the next 3 months. No way, will mine be back on the road this year, though!
Cheers
Paul
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+1 for Tayna as a company.
I have had a few batteries from them for various cars. Really good service and price. Also possible to find discount code. I have used D2BOYS twice before which has generated another 5% discount.
Good luck
Paul
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Many years ago, I also had good results from London Chroming, now Capital Chrome. Tel No. is 0207 639 6434
Paul
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Dave,
I have no experience of them but I'm intrigued by the apparent huge variation of feedback on them on various sites. That's really quite unusual! See here as an example:
https://www.yell.com/biz/ashford-chroming-ashford-7009943/
Do let us all now if you choose to use them and your experience of them. I will need a chromer soon and living in Kent, they would be one that I might consider.
Paul
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Chris,
There's a difference between what you should do before (trying) to start the car, and what you need to do to recommission it for use. And there a few items that fall between the two.
As you're intending to recommission and then ultimately use the car, here's my suggestion to do the following before trying to start it:
- Change the oil and filter
- Drain the old petrol from tank
- Change the fuel filter
- Put fresh petrol (or disconnect fuel feed pipe to filter and run pipe to jerrycan of fresh petrol).
- Rocker cover off to examine valve train
- Plugs out and teaspoon of oil as per Peter
- Turn engine via crank nut until pistons and valves seem free to turn
- Assuming now all ok, check clutch not stuck
- Disconnect fuel feed to carbs, turn engine over until fresh fuel and no sediment coming through pipe to carbs. Reconnect pipe.
- Check carb butterfly operation and diaphragm integrity
- Turn engine over on starter, check valve train operation and mind oil splashes!
- Check ignition wiring integrity and spark at removed plugs when turning engine by starter
- Refit spark plugs & rocker cover Fit new plugs if old ones clearly worn. (Can fit new rocker gasket later)
Only then would I try and start engine (use jerrycan petrol feed if sediment still coming from tank even with fresh petrol. Have a fire extinguisher to hand!
Good luck
Paul
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I just spoke to the office. They are aware of the problem and are still working on it.
Today, I can log in, which is good news. However I can't get to the page which would allow me to update any of my personal details. Access to this has been temporarily removed as part of the problem resolution.
It seems it could take a few more days to finally resolve the problems.
Paul
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Hi,
I wonder if anyone else has experienced the problem of not being able to login to teh main website because it thinks your membership has expired?
I tried to login today only to be presented with a message saying that my membership had expired and by clicking on the Renew button, I could renew it. fine, except my membership is renewed by Direct Debit!
I clicked the Renew button which took me to a Membership Info Page that confirmed that my renewal date was 1st October 2015 (today), that subs had been paid today and that my next expiry is 1st October 2016. It also implies on that page that I am logged in (gives me an option of logging out)
All the other tabs on that page seem to be inoperative.
If I just manually go back to the Home Page, it wants me to log in and we go through the same silly cycle!
Anyone else got the same problem or do the Administrators know if there's a bug in the Website software relating to expiry date, DD renewal etc?
Tks
Paul
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It's from Series 9 which was filmed before, and broadcast from March 2012. That explains the so-called prices.
Discussion on the TR6 episode on this Forum here:
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/37635-wheeler-dealers-tr6-first-picture/
I know it's "entertainment" but I think it's a dreadful programme. Bodged work that often misses the key problem areas of a car, common conning of viewers (Watch how to fix a smoking engine on a 205 GTI!!!), unpleasant presenter and often no buyer even at the end (use members of production team for filming a "buyer").
Rant over....
Paul
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I'm sure this has been asked before, but there seems a fundamental flaw in the forum.
Most Forum do not let you create a reply to a thread if you are not logged on. On this Forum, you can create a reply (perhaps spending a lot of time typing it!) then when you click the Post button, it reminds you that you're not logged on and loses everything you've typed!
Surely, if you're not logged on, it shouldn't let you create a thread reply, as with all other Forum that I use?
Paul
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Tim,
I think the basic thing that would determine your decision is whether this is really just a respray or something more fundamental in terms of body refurbishment or even restoration.
I've never seen a TR6 that just needed a respray. So unless the body was restored 5 years ago but with a poor top paint job, I suspect that, unfortunately, you've got a lot more work to come. My own car looked pretty good on top, including rear wings, but once stripped down, I was aghast at how much bodywork it needed. Most rear wing issues are where you can't see or get to unless the wings are off.
So, good luck with whatever you decide, but do get an absolute thorough examination before you thinks it's "just a respray".
Paul
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Alan,
This for sharing that. Do you know what head is fitted from CR2845 to CR2936?
This
Paul
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Richard,
My guess is that 43 fits between, but only because of where they've positioned it in the pic. My (perhaps naive) assumption is that if 48 was fitted above 43 then they would have drawn it in a higher position on the diagram. But that may be a completely flawed assumption! I hope to see a late 6 early next month and will have a look then, if no-one is able to clarify prior.
Paul
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Richard,
No probs. Just to clarify, if your CP number is higher than 75001, doesn't that mean that you originally just had a rubber seal on the column, but no retaining plate; rather than the grommet on the earlier cars, or the plate and foam on the later cars? That's the way that I read the parts catalogue - cars up to CP75000 have grommet, CP cars after 75000 have seal, CR cars have plate and foam. If that's right then the rubber seal on CP75001+ must sit on the column but inside the bulkhead.
However, I may have completely misread the parts catalogue!
Paul
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Richard71,
If part 29 on the diag is the bit that holds the foam in place, then I now understand it's use. Tks. See my post on this bracketry here:
As the foam pad (and that plate) came in only at CR1, then I guess that's why you don't have one as your car would originally have had the grommet / seal and not the plate and sponge? If you do want to fit the plate, though, mine is on the bench and I could take photos / measurements if you want to make one?
Roger,
I'm not sure why the CR cars are supposed to have 2 of those sponge pieces if the plate (29) just pushes it / them against the bulkhead? Do they sit either side of the plate (29)?
Paul
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I don't remember seeing the plate when I dismantled my 73-built car (but it was 25 years ago!). Either way, I don't think there's a plate now on the rebuilt shell (will check this week).
I'm thinking of trying to use a thin rubber grommet to fit that space although it's a very tight fit where the outer column just pokes through. I wonder if wrapping about 2" of the column at that point with a layer of thin rubber would be a better option.
Paul
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Fast coming to the realisation that I'm looking at a front suspension rebuild again.
Andrew, I'm grateful for your observations. Corroded bearing races could be the reason that the hub is getting tight under just hand-tightening of the castle nut. And also your thought that my hand-wrenching of the wheels wouldn't have imparted much load. However, in that case I'm still intrigued as to how the play has built up, especially if the wrenching of the wheels hasn't compressed the felt seals?
Maybe I'll never know how the play built up! I'll probably just end up leaving the play until I can rebuild the front suspension as it sounds as if I should change balljoints, wishbone bushes and possibly the bearing races as well if they are corroded? I'd somehow hoped that the bearing races might be ok. Wonder if I should also change the "new" trunnions" when I take it all apart?
A shame as I wonder if the parts from 25 years ago were better quality than the current options that I'll now need to use.....
Tks again for all your input, Gents.
Paul
Cylinder head info
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I thought that the 2500S head 219016 was different (and deemed better) than the head fitted to the TR6 because of the shape within the inlet port? Chris Witor's site seems to imply this:
http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/inlet_port_1.pdf
http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/inlet_port_2.pdf
If this is true, then it would seem that a skimmed 2500S head is preferable to the TR6 head?
Paul