ptjs1
-
Content Count
97 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by ptjs1
-
-
Steve,
Do you mean the Tie Bar, part number 625315? If so, you an buy these new from Moss etc.
Hope that helps.
Paul
-
Has anyone got any experience of "Mike's Mounts"? From a superficial look, they seem a well-thought and interesting alternative to the other mounting approaches:
http://mrmikes.com/miata_triumph_mounts.htm
Paul
-
Nick,
+1 for the Street Triple! Following my spine surgery, I'm debating whether I'll be able to ride my Daytona 955i and whether I should chop it in for a Speed Triple to go with my Bonnie. Cars or Bikes, Triumph is still a great brand!
Paul
-
this weekend i did this.....!!!...pretty on the outside.... to a bit dogey on the inside... the start of the restoration....
Nick,
It looks much better than when I first stripped down mine!
Paul
-
Spud1985,
Thank you for your summary of why you're rejecting teh Rimmers top. I'm really interested in your experiences as I'm thinking of fitting a hardtop when I complete my rebuild. I wonder if you could give us a bit more information:
Has your car been rebuilt? If so, were there any issues in getting doors, windows, windscreen etc aligned as part of your build? Have yo ever measured your car against another TR6?
Have Rimmers offered to show you the top fitted to another car, or can they confirm whether the key dimensions of that particular top are the same as any other top that they have?
Do you (or anyone else) know what are the key dimensions that would affect the fitting of a top eg distance of top of screen to B-post top etc etc?
Tks again
Paul
-
Spud1985,
That's disappointing. Looking forward to hearing your reasons for return! I assume for this that the Honeybourne top is not the same as the "Lenham" top sold by Rimmers etc?
Paul
-
Spud1985,
Be interesting to hear of your views on the top, the fitting kit etc. Are you getting it painted to match the car colour?
Cheers
Paul
-
Magnus,
That sounds an interesting option. Have you got any pics you can share with us?
Paul
-
-
With apologies to Roger if this is not the same question that he was asking:
My chassis is also as per original. This might sound naive but I'm not near the car so can't envisage how these items fit.
Are we suggesting to fit 4 x 139580R and do these plates go behind the box brackets ie on the inside of the chassis?
Also, are the reinforcing plates as in sets TT3259L and TT3259R additional items that need to be welded to the chassis brackets or are they parts of those brackets as original to the car?
Tks
Paul
-
David,
I also like the idea of doing it the way that you did using the engine mount and block drain tap holes. Apart from the bolts needed to go into the block, are all the other plates, spacers etc part of the engine stand kit?
Tks
Paul
-
Bill,
Tks for that. I finally realised that the problem was caused by using Google Chrome on my small netbook. At 100%, it didn't display the left-hand side menu options. Changed resolution to 90% and Bingo! I could then access the left menu areas.
Really interesting blog! A few items that I'd like to ask you about re. the engine rebuild, so I'll drop you a separate email rather than disrupt your thread here.
Tks again
Paul
-
Clarkey,
Good point. Tks. I've got a CR28xx series car so I guess my front calipers have a metric thread, but I was assuming that the rest of the car is AF? Are there parts of the car other than the brakes which are metric? (It's so long since I first stripped it down that I can't remember!). I was going to take my bags of imperial stainless nuts and bolts, but maybe I should also take some metric fasteners with me? Fortunately most of my socket sets have both AF and Metric. But I'll add some metric taps and dies to my list of items to take to the unit as well.
Cheers
Paul
-
Bill,
Hi, could you please explain how I can access your rebuild blog, or perhaps you could build a link into your profile signature?
Tks
Paul
-
This might sound a strange question but I have now been able to move my car after 26 years to a storage unit from whence I will be able to finally commence the rebuild. The bare body is on the chassis but the front and rear suspension needs to be restripped and rebuilt. The engine needs to be fully stripped and rebuilt and then the whole car needs to be put back together.
I don't really want to be taking tools down each time I go to the unit so, as far as possible I want to set up the storage unit with as many of my hand tools and equipment as practical. So I have to make some decisions as to which sets of tools to take from my garage, or buy duplicates where I feel that need to retain tools at home for working on my other cars and bikes.
I have bought duplicate trolley jacks, axle stands and a small compressor for the unit. I also have enough socket sets and spanners to take a few Imperial sets to the unit. I'll also bring parts home to put in my parts cleaner or beadblasting cabinet. Naturally many things such as engine machining and chroming will be outsourced but I'm trying to do as much as possible myself.
So, I'm trying to think of all the tools and equipment that I'm going to need over the next year and try and get myself organised before I finally dive into the task. i do know that the list could be huge but I'd appreciate any ideas from members who have been through a rebuild process.
Tks for any thoughts
Paul
-
Roger,
I'm also following your thread as I'm about to start the re-strip and re-build of my front suspension following its rebuild and 26-year layup. I'm also interested in views on quality of parts, choice of 'urethane bushes etc. I'm going to replace the rubbers with 'urethane but may try and re-use the trunnions and balljoints once I've cleaned and re-greased them. I'm very nervous about the quality of parts available today compared to when i bought new items 26 years ago.
If you do a search, you'll know that there are many threads on spring compressor tools. If you're going to make one, I would suggest going over the top on specification. You just can't use the type of compressors that Waldi has suggested; they don't fit. I have made a tool but I've used M16 high-tensile threaded rod (use at least Grade 8.8 whatever size rod you use), two large nuts on each end, min of two large washers to allow slip, a 1/4/" steel plate that is shaped to fit the lower spring pan with holes for the studs + oval slot for the bar to pass through, a large shaped hemispherical washer to allow as flat alignment as possible on lower plate. I've then drilled each end of the rod and inserted R-clips to give some little contingency if it does strip. With the rod readily greased, that's the minimum that I now feel comfortable with. 26 years ago, I did it, as per the brown book just using a trolley jack, and won't be risking that again! I'm still amazed that the book recommended this approach!
Have you thought about upgraded hubs and shafts or are you staying with original?
Good luck
Paul
-
Roger,
My TR6 had a towbar fitted when I bought the car in 1984. The bumper was drilled and the tow hitch mounted up tight against it. When I stripped the car in 1990, I kept all the parts. I don;t intend to refit it so would be available if you're interested.. Let me know and I'll dig the parts out of the garage.
Paul
-
I haven't got one, but will when the car is finished. I've heard very good things about the tailored one supplied by cabrioshield. No external straps to damage paint and no billowing in wind apparently.
Paul
-
As mentioned, it's an Eaton M90 in the Jaguar AJ16. They never supercharged the AJ6 although I have seen one private conversion. Difficult to find an M90 in the UK, but plenty in the US for sale as fitted to some Chevrolet vehicles.
Paul
-
Do all the various makes of alloy cover have a flat base with no location flange for the gasket? I want to fit one when I rebuild my engine but have concerns as to how well they can be sealed to the head? Is there a silicon gasket that can be used and won't kink in when tightened down?
Paul
-
Mick,
If you lift the car until the roof of the car touches the ceiling of the garage, it won't matter if you've lifted it by the tyres or the chassis, the chassis will still be the same height from the floor of the garage. Or are we talking about different sorts of clearance?
Paul
-
-
-
Rich,
My key numbers were on my certificate. On the basis that these numbers are on record, wouldn't it be easier just to get the numbers rather than strip the locks?
Good luck
Paul
Dimensions & Spec of Front Spring Compressor
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Chris,
I used the Danielson family template but either the tolerances are very tight or else my measurement and cutting isn't that good(!) but I ended up needing to fettle the plate and elongate the holes etc.
I am due to go down to the storage unit where my car is later this week and can make a fairly accurate cardboard template which I will post back here if that helps you.
Cheers
Paul