david ferry
-
Content Count
1,384 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by david ferry
-
-
Nick.
A quick search on the forum shows that Wyn's car was sold at one point by Mark O'Malley - Classic Marks. He's Marko on here and if you contact him, he may have details of the wheels and/or a photo. It's a well developed/modified car, or at least it was.
David
-
Nick,
16” wheels are possible. Wyn Lewis had some on his TR5. They looked v good. Wyn no longer has that car, and I don’t know who owns it. Perhaps a search may bring some information.
What was your reason for the brake ‘upgrade’?
Are you too far down the road to not bother with it? Standard brakes in good condition are more than good enough.
David
-
For the sake of a small amount of hassle, the small cost of the replacement filter and the small amount of oil to fill the new filter/top up the sump, I’d replace this. You can quickly damage the crank if there’s a problem, and I’m sure that if this happens, you’d regret not changing the damaged filter.
It’s well worth avoiding that potential scenario.
David
-
Neil,
Personally, I'd fit the new ones and just use a small grommet in the 'spare' hole. You could even stick a bit of paint on the grommet.
I'd have thought this will look acceptable until you decide to get any bodywork done.
It also means that Roy could have your old ones so that he can see the cars behind him on the track, and keep scrutineers happy.
David
-
On 4/11/2024 at 9:13 PM, cp25616 said:
Definitely not for me. I use Toyota red and Forlife before thatwith no worries at all. Dr. Michael Bingley used to use Forlife without water in his TR6 and swore by it. When it was available I used Forlife too and it was great.
Alan G
I did/may still have 2 or 3 5 litre containers of unused Forlife in my workshop.
If anyone is interested in it, let me know.
David
-
Paul,
Yes, but all with the raised hinge plinths from the later TR3a cars.
David
-
I agree about the MOT history not being particularly good.
However, don’t confuse the MOT test number with anything to do with where the test was completed. As far as I’m aware, the MOT test number is a randomly generated number.
David
-
I’d think that there’s no chance this will happen because of possible liabilities, which could be enormous.
David
-
-
Unless I'm missing the point here, would a good start point not be the location of the engine mount chassis brackets on either a TR5 or 6?
Given the road wheels are in the same place on all chassis, wouldn't that then mean that your engine is in the same/correct location and you can then modify other sections of the chassis around the engine, if needs be.
I think that this would be the way that I'd be doing this.
Are the required measurements/chassis bracket locations and holes to be found in workshop manuals?
David
-
Tony,
That looks lovely!
Which car is that? If 5VC, are there any photos in period with the wheel arch ‘modification’?
David
-
Have a look here Think Automotive
Don't mess about with this, ensure the job is done properly and safely - it's petrol and will go up in flames, possibly taking your car with it.
David
-
This is the firm I've used in the past for a number of sets of magnesium ARE Silverstone wheels and I'm pretty sure that I'm not the only person here with to have used them.
They did a great job, including crack testing, which is very important on these wheels.
https://www.alloywheelrepairs.com/magnesium-wheels/
David
-
Good point Stuart.
With mine, this is what I was starting with. I suspect it's worth more now, certainly more use to me as my race car. Interestingly, it had been a race car since about 500 miles or so from new.
.thumb.jpg.dc5e75547e0a34348bbaa3e399ae6235.jpg)
David
-
Paul,
The only difficult bits are the steering box and dashboard, possibly the throttle pedal too.
They can all be found. I have a steering box sat on the shelf, or you may wish to go down the route of a steering rack conversion. I've recently seen a dashboard for sale, and I think someone is converting LHD to RHD dash panels anyway.
In my opinion, it will be more than Charlie's £500, unless the steering box you use is totally scrap! I'd suggest the bits, all in good condition will cost you something more like £1,500 to £2,000. A dash panel is likely to cost something like £300.
My sidescreen racecar is a TR3b that I converted to RHD. Ian is correct, it won't have the cut outs for the master cylinder pocket and all of the other stuff that goes through the bulkhead to convert to RHD. I may still have my drawing/template somewhere for locations of the holes to be cut. Once you have something like that, it's not a difficult job.
David
-
This is what I did to my TR3 racecar in order to improve and speed up access to things at the front end, particularly at a race circuit.
I'm bound to say is, but the end result looks very good. You'd need to know what you're looking at to see what's been done.
There's two long caphead screws that bolt the upper half to the lower half, from underneath.
It works well.
-
If any readers are interested, I have a pair of TR4 H6 carbs on a manifold with linkage (I think) looking for a new home.
They are currently with my engine builder, and have been sat on his shelf for ages (about 3 years now) as I don't need them on either racecar. There's a final bit of rebuild to finish them off and then they're ready to be rehomed.
If interested, let me know.
David
-
I appreciate that this may be a little thread drift, but here's an old picture of my TR3b race car. It's been a race car since new. This photo is from when it was in America.
.thumb.jpg.e935e2565a9f7db5ccd85bd435fdf0bd.jpg)
And a more recent one from the assembly area at Brands Hatch with me in the driver's seat.
-
17 hours ago, stuart said:
Sadly not David its unique to 5/250 it stiffens the cover board up.looks like this
Stuart.
Stuart,
I should be in the workshop later. I'll have a look.
David
-
Stuart.
Possibly.
Is it the same as TR4 and TR6? Not too sure what it is that I have lying around!
David
-
Tim.
Two names here.
Don Trimming Company Ltd- Car Hoods www.donhoods.com
Car Interior Trimming & Retrimming | Aldridge Trimming Ltd www.aldridge.co.uk
I've used both and been very pleased with them. Don Trimming decades ago, Aldridge Trimming a couple of years ago.
David
-
John,
Try contacting Neil Revington, or Ernie Cole. They may be able to help.
David
-
I met him at the International too. A lovely man.
Here’s a link to some photos.
-
Take it to the tip, don’t put it down the drains.
See here:
http://bluecol.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/sds-04417829.pdf
.jpg.98dbb94df860c28cdaa5c02cf7a26512.jpg)
.jpg.4209dc0d019237122f2e2b73f7c5390b.jpg)
Spinning Wheel Nut
in General TR Technical
Posted · Edited by david ferry
Further thought
Myles,
If somehow you can stop that rotation, the job will become significantly easier, as you can simply remove the nut, take the wheel and brake drum off the car and replace the stud with one of these.
http://STUD WHEEL REPAIR TR2-4 (revingtontr.com)
What type of wheels do you have? Are you prepared to scrap the wheel, and replace it?
Just a further thought. I wonder if removing the other wheel nuts and having a friend push/pull on the wheel (car jacked up and very well supported) whilst you try to undo the dodgy stud will help you remove it. I can't remember if the shoulder on the original type stud will fit through the brake drum stud hole.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about making the hole in the flange slightly larger with the peened over end of the stud, as whichever repair method you choose, you'll be making the hole larger anyway.
Good luck. I fear you're going to need it.
David