rpurchon
-
Content Count
471 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by rpurchon
-
-
yes looks usual. when the oil turns grey its bad news.
richard
-
Hello,
I am helping a friend here in Spain to refurbish a TR6 engine .
We doubt if it is necessary to use new connecting rod bolts, as the repair manual states, since according to responses from some well known UK dealers, "the bolts are just high tensile and normally you do not have to replace them".
What is your experience and recommendations?
Thanks in advance.
Jesús
i have always re used old con rod bolts with no problem.
no mention of using new bolts in my triumph factory 2000 manual. or more importantly good old haynes manual.
and lets face it more people with have rebiult 2litre and 2.5 engines over the years relying on a hayes manual.
and ive never heard any tales of 6 cylinder triumphs been prone to throw conrods because new bolts werent fitted.
save your money .that is unless your building that RACE engine that most of the forum members on here seem to have fitted
richard
-
Hi All,
I am planning on fitting a hard top to my TR6.
1. Are they much quetier than a soft top (I will put the soft top back on in the summer, this is just for winter driving)
2. Does it drive much different with one fitted ?
Many thanks
Tom
yep a lot quiter and you dont get as much scuttle shake and rattles etc.
looks better in my opinion.
richard
-
Hi Steve,
I did it with no problem. I suppose it depends what and how. I used bullet mirrors from Moss with self tapping screws and some waxoil.
Andy
have a look at tex stainless mirrors.they have a plastic base that you screw the mounting plate to.
acts like a rawplug.no metal to metal bits.
you dont have to take door apart or glass out.plus you can put loads of waxoil under the plastic mounting.
fitted 2 to my car 5 years and no problems or rust.
richard
-
Alec,
The answer is in Stuarts post in the following thread.
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=9035
Cheers
Guy
just read this old post from stuart.
can you get double sided key barrels for the cubby and boot lock.
richard
-
So, I replaced the points with a Powerspark (from SimonBBC on fleabay). It was difficult to set the timing staticaly with a bulb . Indeed when I first started it the car was very retarded against the strobe. The device was very easy to fit, and can revert to back to the old points easily. I set the timing with the strobe to the same mark as before.
Starting is really good and the car seems to pull much better, probably because I have 12v to a 12v coil now.
I have now advanced the timing a couple of clicks and it is even stronger. I intend to keep up this process until the car has any tendency to pink. I will then know the extreme and back it off.
30 thou plug gap seems ok.
Andy
i had one of those electronic jobbies from simon bbc.it only lasted a couple of months.
it started missing couching farting backfiring for a mile,then died.
hope yours is ok.but keep your old points and condensor in the boot just in case.
richard
-
Ok my first opportunity to make myself look stupid.i am going to look at a 1970 TR6 tomorrow andit is advertised as a BARB model.Cant find much on this what is it and what do I look for.
cheers
everybody sorry for being a numpty.
could be mispelt for CARB model.
if so chasis number should start cc and would be ex usa import.
either way check for rust rust and rust.
richard
-
Well I cast caution to the wind, put on a hard hat and went in. As advised I separated the rear from the front and then undid the four nuts to release the clutch assembly from the front.
My initial assessment is that the unit is probably a candidate for rebuilding but will need to be fully disassembled for a thorough cleaning and inspection and replacement of seals if nothing else. The unit had apparently been taken apart before as the inside is clean, oil free, and there were no gaskets between the two halves. There was slight surface rust on parts of the annulus and gears that wiped off easily with an oily rag.
One more stupid question.. is the entire cavity of the Overdrive filled with oil, even the clutch parts ?. It looks like that is the design as all the bearing and gears are in the same cavity as the clutch-like bits but that just seems odd as clutch-like things dont normally do well when covered in oil..
I would like to apply some lube to preserve it while I wait for the rebuild opportunity but I dont want to contaminate anything that shouldn't get oil on it.
Stan
when stood the oil will be the same level as the gbox. level with the drain plug.
when its running oil thrown everywhere.
richard
-
Hi all
I am looking to convert my 6 to carbs due to many reasons.
What do i need?
Will the distributor require changing and what do u do with the pedistal and MU take off?
I have the SU carbs and manifold but what needle and springs do i need for a starting point?
The car is a PI 150 1972 in standard tune.
Thanks
Tony
i have B A E needles yellow springs.
the dizzy will be fine.not sure about the pedistal though.
and a mechanical fuel pump.
air filters or better still, make up a air box.
my car starts runs and stops great.
dont be put of sus by all the loss of power ****.
richard
give them a go.
-
Evening,
I think my o/d isolator switch (on the gbox cover) needs adjustment. When in o/d 4th gear I sometimes need to hold the gearstick firmly in 4th (i.e. push and hold it firmly into 4th to the limit of its travels) to stop the overdrive slipping in and out, especially when warm. I'm thinking that it is the isolator switch that needs screwing in by half a turn or so, but I DO NOT want to take the gearbox tunnel out!
Is it possible to somehow adjust the isolator from under the car without taking the car to pieces!
yes.what you need is a small child with thin arms,who can handle a spanner..
i think there are paper washers on the swthches to adjust the depth.
richard
-
the only place it could go is down the pushrod side of the head.
it might be down one of the holes sat on the block or in one of the cam followers.
if not it will be in the sump.
dont remove the head for such a small amount of aluminium.
the bits will be small and chewed up and in the oil filter or in the sump.
youve been very very very lucky the collets on the valve didnt come undone and the valve drop out.
richard
-
Hi
Just for comparison the two cars I watched on the rollers were a TR5 reaching 122bhp and a 6 that reached 124bhp.
Mine got 120 bhp last year at Malvern on carbs.
Mark
for more comparison i got 132 this year.running on su.
i noticed when he was inputing data. effiency was set at 70%.
so the guestimated flywheel figures are assuming 30% drivetrain losses.
richard
-
Who is JDO and I have a similar problem. Please advise.
www.jdo1.com
-
Hi Guys, just been to my first Int weekend - great - 427 miles and the car didn't miss a beat. The cars first long run, ie more than 30 miles, since 1993. Before going to Malvern I decided to fit a new speedo cable to stop the needle flickering - believing this would fix the problem - but it hasn't. Any thoughts?
brass bush in the speedo head. where the needle seats is worn.
how do i know .took mine personaly to jdo for recal and repair.same problem
richard
-
this might be of interst to owners of early usa carb cars.
i had to change the worn cam in my car end of april.
the cam fitted was std CR camshaft.i still had my old CC camshaft and cam followers.
didnt want to buy a new cam and didnt want the car off the road,so i thought id put it back in and give it a try.
id had the car on the rr at malvern last year and got 144hp.
put it back on rr saturday and got 132.hp. so 12 hp down.
nothing else changed on car and the same rolling road.
richard
-
Very encouraging, the J type is different (or so the manuals say) in that there don't appear to be any springs etc between g/box & O/d that would try and make a break for freedom when separated.
As the O/d doesn't currently work I am assuming we can consider it dis-engaged. If it's a matter of just matching up the splines, doesn't sound too difficult.
Why am I bothering - well my nearest specialist is probably 800miles away. Living in sunny SW France does have it's drawbacks when you need help like this!
Thanks all
Mike
yes there are no springs to fall out.
the overdrive will be disengaged.but if it switched out under hard accelerartion or deceleration it will be a pig to remove.
before removing from the car.try wiring the solenoid directly to posotive supply. make sure the earth wire is still fitted also.
[can you here it clicking without engine running]if not. try a new solenoid first.
try cleaning both the filters out.last resort would be to remove fom car.
richard
-
Faced with the possibility of replacing the o/d (J type), does anyone know of a good reason why it shouldn't be possible to remove/replace just the overdrive unit without removing the gearbox assembly? On lesser cars sure, but with the TR's wonderful access to eveything from above it looks as though unbolting one from the other they should slide apart.
Apart from anything else the gearbox/ clutch are fine and I'm sort of in the 'if it ain't broke' frame of mind. i would be glad to hear anyone's thoughts or better yet, someone who's done it with the pitfalls to look out for.
Thanks
Mike
yes you will be able to remove the od in situ.comletley different to a A type. a lot easier
make sure its been disengaged NOT underload or it WILL be difficult to seperate.
otherwise just the gaskets holding it all toghether.
richard
-
-
Richard,
The 5th or 6th June 1970 would have been the build date. Sorry I can't be more precise. Shame that you didn't ask a couple of days ago as I was at the BMIHT yesterday.
cheers
Derek
thanks for that.probably the 5th which was a friday.
richard
-
my cars 40 this month.it even says june 70 on the vin plate.
any one any idea the date it came of the production line.
ex usa cc55026 with od from new, unusual for a us car.
richard
-
most people would be glad of instant od engagement.
try easing off on the accelerator when changing up and down.
only way to find out what is happening is to fit a pressure gauge.
if you have too much pressure.there could be a washer/spacer.
fitted behind the accumulator spring,to up the pressure.
richard
-
exact symptoms to mine. turned out 1 lobe worn away on camshaft .
take the rocker off.start it up and it will be obvious if one or more valves not opening fully.
richard
-
Anyone out there know weather its possible to convert a Vitesse 1600 Head to work on an early TR6 Pi?
If not has anyone got a Spare Head they want to sell me, thats been pressure tested and is all ok
Regards
Steve
hi i have a cr cylinder head. it has been skimmed valves lapped but never fitted.
no springs fitted .bit i can give you a set off single springs etc. or fit you old ones.£125
i can email more photos .
richard
-
Thanks, Richard. I had put them both on the same side. Should have taken more care (and some photos) when I stripped it down.
regards
Jim
make sure they go in the rightway around. plain metal back facing each other.
cheers richard
Cam identification
in TR6 Forum
Posted
very impressive, any idea the casting numbers be on 308788 cam
richard