rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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i have just made some more of these,for sale.
if you have not seen or dont look on the buy sale section.
richard
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You want something like this
tr6 2.5pi gt6 light weight fan extension- electric fan
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230580228866&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
made by myself
richard
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Hi my handsome friends
well today i started the car after removing the engine to resolve the oil leaks,
when i rebuilt the engine last year the oil gallery screws were sealed with well seal
every thing leaked it was a night mare.
the engine ran well fully balanced stage three head spitfire bearing etc etc
i carefully cleaned everything and used silicone on gaskets seals gallery screws
and guess what no oil leaks
regards happy pink
i once used silicone on the sump gasket.
the next time i took the sump off 1/2 the oil pump pick up [narrow early type] was blocked up with bits of silicone.
it might pay you to run it a while. drop the oil and have a peep through the drain hole.
[i presume youve got the early sump with the bolt at the front]see if theyres any bits of silicone stuck to the wire mesh pick up
richard.
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Have you got any pics of the s/s bumper in situ?
Rob
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Hi, do you mind me asking what you paid for the stainless bumper?
Rob
early front bumper £356.
il put a photo on at the weekend
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just fitted a stainless steel front bumper from harrington group bristol/vietnam.
and it fits great and looks great.just watch out for the metric fasteners.
much better fit than the **** moss one on the back, now rusting.
ordered it on the 15 dec. posted from vietnam 4 jan arrived today the 6th.
wish i had ordered a rear one as well
richard
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with the od on the gearbox you should be able to push in down,but not hold it down to within 1/4" 1/2".
i couldnt get mine to mesh right,end of the main shaft splines are a bit gruby.
so i built od up from gearbox backwards.
richard
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Just bagged myself a pair of HS6 carbs off a Dolly Sprint on impuluse from ebay. They were a good price so I thought, why not?!
I'm on 175s at present so my questions are as follows:
1) Will Sprint ones need new needles, etc, for use on the 6?
2) Can I use a 2500 saloon manifold to fit the carbs on my December 1971 CC car, and does anyone have one?!
3) Cheapest way of getting the relevant linkages
4) General power increase to be gained by simply swapping from Strombergs to SUs.
Ta!
Jake
heres my set up. saloon manifold home made airbox.bae needles yellow springs .
re correct head.if you have the square manifold. probably early head.unless some ones been in there and changed it .
however the later swept one will probably work just as good if not better than the square one.
even with the mis match of the ports.[the ports wont match up by a 1/5 moon shaped segement on one side]
or simly grind your head to match the inlet.very little difference.if you like the sus look out for a later head.
zenith linkage
richard
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Just bagged myself a pair of HS6 carbs off a Dolly Sprint on impuluse from ebay. They were a good price so I thought, why not?!
I'm on 175s at present so my questions are as follows:
1) Will Sprint ones need new needles, etc, for use on the 6?
2) Can I use a 2500 saloon manifold to fit the carbs on my December 1971 CC car, and does anyone have one?!
3) Cheapest way of getting the relevant linkages
4) General power increase to be gained by simply swapping from Strombergs to SUs.
Ta!
Jake
here a my set up. saloon manifold home made airbox.bae needles yellow springs .
re correct head.if you have the square manifold. probably early head.unless some ones been in there and changed it .
however the later swept one will probably work just as good if not better than the square one.
even with the mis match of the ports.[the ports wont match up by a 1/5 moon shaped segement on one side]
or simly gring your head to match the inlet.very little difference.if you like the sus look out for a later head.
linkage from the zeniths.
richard
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Guys
So my question to the Forum. Guys do I put the pin into my new bronze carrier (not purchased from Mr Revington) or leave it out?
or convert it to slipper pads from a saloon sprint.get the grove the pins sits in made wider much better arrangemaent.
richard
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- I suppose its just a case of pulling the hubs off! - although that sounds too simple - I'll let you know the outcome. -
you wont just pull the hubs.not even with a sledge hammer.
if theres nothing wrong with them leave well alone.
richard
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Evening Roger & Ivor,
Across the batter = 12.6V
Coil + to earth = 12.4V hand crank engine = 6.5V continue to crank = 12.4V
Coil + to - resistance 2.6 ohm
LT to HT resistance = 7570 ohm
The fluctuation in voltage when hand cranking suggests a ballast system is fitted.
The LT resistance suggests a non ballast coil is fitted.
So it looks like a ballast coil should be obtained and fitted.
Please can you explain the difference between ballast and non ballast.
Just for info. This current coil has been fitted to since 2002.
rpurchon,
Thanks for your post however I found it difficult to understand your instructions so have not tried your suggestion yet.
Cheers
Steve
the high tension lead that comes from coil to dizzy cap.place on engine.then open the points with your finger.
you should get a big spark from the end of the high tension lead.
yep a picture would definatley be worth 1000 words.
richard
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Not quite.
If you crank the engine by hand with the ignition on and find the feed voltage to the coil oscillates between 12V and 8V as the points open & close, you've got a ballast ignition. Which is fine so long as you have a ballast coil to go with it.
In that case, across the LT terminals (with the coil not connected to anything) you should have about 1 ohm resistance.
On the other hand, if you crank the engine by hand and see a steady 12V feed, that's a standard coil and should show about 3 ohm resistance.
A standard coil with a ballast feed will give a weak spark, they need to be matched.
But.... 6.5V with the starter energised means the battery is knackered or flat and it's no wonder you get no spark. Charge it up and try again tomorrow.
Doesn't explain why your ignition retiming should have made it so.... unless the ignition was left on for ages in which case the coil might be cooked....
If it ain't broke, fix it until it is... hoho
Ivor
take dizzy cap of.pull lead out from coil to dizzy cap and rest near engine flick points open with your finger nail.
you should get a spark from coil.if so coil is ok and wires to it and in dizzy are ok
try the same using plug lead and a plug.
if points are sparking = duff condensor.condensors just like to die.or they seem to on my car.
could be bad spring contact dizzy cap to rotor arm.or rotor arm duff.
richard
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OK that's settled then..I need an A type overdrive with/without gearbox...anyone?
What cars are they fitted to? i.e will an Etype or Volvo fit!
john
what you need is a sprint or any later gearbox saloon stag 2.5 cr tr6 which will have all steel bushes inside. much stronger.
if you can get hold of A type gearbox it will have bronze bushes in the gearbox.
[if your having problems with yours it will probably be bronze top hat bush thats cracked]
simply put the later gearbox parts on the a type mainshaft.
best bet is to buy a sprint gbox change the input shaft for your tr one and fit.youve then got odrive.
then trawl ebay for six months looking for A type odrive gboxs.not just triumphs.look for rovers etc
they are basicly the same inside.you should be able to get a few for £200 if your patient then sort your a type out at leisure.
richard
ps i have sent for a megajolt, and getting bits and pieces to convert.then by by condensor.
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Hey Richard,
And by this being the best cam I'm assuming you mean the Kent TH12-6 and not my existing CC cam?....
I think I'm giving it a try, he's asking about £ 150,- for it.
Next week I'm taking the block to a specialist to see if it needs a rebore or not. Hoping not so I can use the new set of pistons.
Cheers,
Edwin
i have a put my cc one in my car. after my cr lost a lobe after fitting double valve springs.
no i mean the cc cam is best for low down torque from 1000revs. it starts to run out of steam above 4000 revs
the other can not produce torque from 1500 to 6500.
its either low down power or high end power with a cam shaft, and if its quoted to produce power up to 6500 revs
which you will never use in a road car, it going to be more at the top end .
richard
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3. Is there another cam that you would advise me to use that gives more torque at low revs and can be installed without other modifications?
Any comments more than welcome.
Cheers.
Edwin.
no, that is the best cam for bottom end torque.
if you want to get more mid to top end power fit a cr cam.
dont bother with double valve springs you will only wear the cam out.
richard
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On a slightly lighter note the "Humph and Andy Fixing up buggered Triumph notebook 2009" records we did this in a morning - (about 4 hours) then had a nice Bar-B-Q
Helps if you cut a hole in the front and have had the head off so regularly nothing is seized. http://triumphwestoz.blogspot.com/2009/06/cam-failure-and-remedy.html
Also shows a picture of the fresh Newman cam. Interesting that it lost lobe 1 as Nick points out - gets the least oil - especially on a saloon with its tilted engine.
If your planning on changing cam shaft, it can be done without taking cylinder head of and a lot quicker.
no exhaust/intake manifolds to remove.etc
remove sump. push followers to top of bores,only one kept sliding down on mine.if they do
or use a metal coat hanger/welding rod bend a u shape and push into followers,and pull up. hold wire up with clothes peg.or bend over.
pull cam out. put new followers in from below and hold up in same manner,
quick and cheap,you dont have to spend £25 + on head gasket set.
richard
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Bit of a thread drift. Does anybody have particular cams to recommend then? Taking into account use with an engine on HS6s rather than PI?
similar set up as you, exhaust, sus, diy head job
triumph std cams,rolling road at malvern and these are the guestimated flywheel figures, cr cam 148. early usa cc cam 136.
have just got a new cam from newman cams for mk1 2.5pi 308788 but with a bit more cam lift at .260".
the cam is halfway between a cr and cp cam.
havent fitted yet, but hope,aiming to get 125 at the wheels.
richard
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Hi guys,
I'm building up a 2500 engine, actually to go in my 2000, but that's not the real point. I'm thinking about getting a new cam from Piper, either the Mild Road or Fast Road examples, but would like to hear other people's opinions on them before committing to buy. Are they good/bad/indifferent?
The engine is shaping up to feature a long branch inlet manifold with twin HS6 SU's, a 6-3-1 exhaust manifold and full sports system, plus a lightened flywheel, so I suppose other suggestions of a good cam to go with this would also be good. I'm not looking for anything too wild as the 2000 is basically my daily driver for when the TR is hibernating, but I'm thinking a fast road item would be ok?
I look forward to hearing what people have to say
Thanks,
Matt
have a look here at g thomas web site.
www.jagclub.ru/tr_heads.html
and click on the camshaft link, and all the other pages
good reading and amuzing,he doesnt beat around the bush.basicly says all uk suppliers are con men,and bullshiters.[probably true]
richard
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Hi Folks
TR6 (1973) I've just fitted a high torque starter (with difficulty !!) from Rimmer. I need a little clarification on the wiring. The instructions I have received from Rimmer are ambiguous. I have raised this with them but they cannot clarify so they are clearing the matter with the manufacturers. The connections on the old starter are identical to those on the new. So why can I not connect up exactly as the old. My worry is that if I do I may damage the starter.
The instruction sheet talks of three wires. I have four. The battery supply, thick brown to the ammeter, a thin brown and all three connected to the stud terminal. The white /red tracer wire to the coil is connected to the spade terminal. The advice is tape up the tracer wire. Change the fitting on the thin brown to spade type connector. Can anyone help. Thanks Malc
all the wires are + on the starter motor so you shouldnt cause any harm.
red /white to spade terminal, all others to bolt.
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Looks interesting.....what price?, but not too sure about having the electronics inside the 'distributor'.... serious heat and vibration there. As seen in another dizzy post recently, I've been using the Megajolt system and can heartily recommend it having been on the car since the restoration. http://www.autosportlabs.net/Megajolt_Lite_Jr. (about £100 for control module with the rest available from scrap (recycling!) yard)
Can do all the same sort of things (and more), i.e programmable curves, rev limiter, switchable maps(really useful that one when touring and forced to run on lower grade petrol) etc. etc. It has the advantage of not being physically attached to the engine.
john
ive been thinking about a 123 but thought the adjustment could have been easier/better.
new version seems ideal,except price exchange rate. wouldnt buy one yet not untill
they have been around 6 months to iron out any bugs.
re the mega jolt
how do you alter the settings.how does it connect to a pc.is it easy to set?
does the coil pack fire all 6 each time.how do you switch settings
cheers richard
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i dont know if anyone has seen this on 123 ignition web site.
they are making a dizzy you can set up and tune on your laptop.and with engine running.
sounds too good to be true.cant find a price?
richard
http://www.123ignition.nl/downloads/folder/123ignition-tune-productsheet-2010.pdf
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Hi All,
Yesterday I removed the pistons from the 6 to examine the condition of the engine (burning a lot of oil).
My big TR6 book states the following about the diameter of the pistons (grade B, as stamped on the block):
* top diameter : 2,9369 - 2,9374
* bottom diameter: 2,9386 - 2,9391
Mine are the following:
* top diameter : 2,925
* bottom diameter: 2,939
According to the book the bottom is correct... the top seems a tiny bit too small.
I think they are Hepolite pistons (an 'H' with 'U20' or 'U21' stamped on top).
Are my pistons fine or do the measurements suggest too much wear at the top?
Cheers,
Edwin
i know its not the right section.but i have a set of brand new AE std pistons.
get one of them honing jobs as on other post and fit these .unless your going down the rebore route.
richard
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I have the TDC mark on my crankshaft pulley, but none of the graduations either side.
Would it be possible for any of you guys who have a pulley off their engine, to measure from the TDC mark to 5, 10, 15 degress, and give a measurement in MM please. I will transfer to my pulley.
I can not measure the diameter accurately as the pulley is still on the car, and the fan hub gets in the way. If I had that I guess I could work out the degrees also.
Regards John
strange you have no timing marks unless they are painted over.
or you have a odd pully fitted which could be different to normal ones.
wrap a strip of paper around the pully and mark the lenght.[example 650 mm]
divide the lenght by 360.= 1.805mm.=1 degree x5 = 9.025 so 5 degrees would be 9mm etc.
for a cheap timing light try these,induction pick, had mine 4 years no problems
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/info_892375.html £17.
and it wont hurt your wallet as much when it gets eaten by the fan.
richard
Harrington group bumpers
in TR6 Forum
Posted
just fitted a front one and well pleased with it.better than the poor fitting and quick to rust moss rear one.
i couldnt contact them by phone.just email.they post by dhl and came well packed
richard