rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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Hi Mike, Thats really interesting so the later gearbox and OD is in effect shorter than the earlier one so no problems with interference only that the rear gearbox mount is in effect suspended in mid air between the chassis rails so a little bit of fabrication can produce a cross piece that can be bolted between the chassis rails and likely could be made to take the standard rear rubber mount. Yes I suspect those cotton real mounts are a little wobbly they are more aimed at hanging exhausts though I seem remember using them myself to put a 1500 Dolly OD box in a Spitfire about 20 years ago (blimey that makes me feel old).
Assume the gear lever still comes up in the same place cant see why Triumph would have moved it.
Great stuff lots of options then thanks for all your help.
heres what i have found messing with gboxs.tr stag sprint saloons,
the gear casings are all the same and all have the same bolt patterns to back plate on engine.
inside the gearbox they are all the same.[so long as you swap all the gears on the mainshaft from 1 box to another and dont mix them]
you can put all the bits from a Atype mainshaft onto a jtype mainshaft and vice versa.
stag and sprint have longer input shaft.stag have different laygear bearings.[you would have to use stag laygear in a stag casing]
all the gearboxs are the same lenght overdrive or non overdrive. gearstick always same position.
the overdrive fits onto the back of the gear casing using a adapter plate.Atype adapter or Jtype adapter, both will fit any gear case
any Atype overdrive will fit onto a Atype back plate ie from a jag a rover healey or even a ferrari.
same with j types except ford transit.
richard
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So am I right in thinking I could also use a stag box too? I have the non od on my 250 and need longer legs without a mortgage!!!!
yes and no ? the stag box input shaft is too long.
you would have to swap the input shaft and counter shaft gear from your 250.remove od and pull gbox in bits.
you could also hit a snag with the spigot bearing size. presuming its a j type stag box.
again its much simpler with a saloon box.
but the stag is best gbox with better laygear bearings.
richard
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Chaps,
You may know this already, but you can find how many tr6 or any car including numbers left of the year of manufacture. Just google 'how many left' go into web site etc, etc. I think its good, not sure how accurate it is. anyway see what you think.
www.howmanyleft.co.uk
good web site.does motor bikes too.
Trs are as common as dog doo compared with some british leyland stuff ie marina gt, mini pick up etc
richard
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Until, that is, the saloon overdrive lets go under the unaccustomed strain . . . . not being internally identical to a TR6 unit.
Cheers,
Alec
this bloke wants a od for his car, and so do lots of other people judging by the number of posts that come up time after time.
this is the simplest and cheapest way to get a overdrive if you diy.and i presume we are talking about diy.
but every one chips in with negative comments like,not enough springs in it[A types].it wont have the correct 1/4" bigger input shaft[saloons]
the working pressure wont be enough.and so on.
and lots of people will understandably think its just too complicated,i live with the car the way it is.
2.0 saloon might be a bit down on power but not a lot.a 2.5saloon similar power a 2.5 pi the same power as a tr
but dont forget these are heavier cars than a tr. i have never heard they suffered from slipping overdrives.
All J type units are all exactly the same inside.barring a small difference in working pressure.
but this is controled by dash pot/relief valve which is easy to get at through bottom cover on th OD.
easy to get from under the car,and no need to remove from car.
whenever i have picked up a gbox/od on ebay,
the sellers always say i scrapped the car due to rust but the gbox was really good.so good i saved it?
find a saloon gbox a cheap solution you wont regret.
richard
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Hi, Given the rarity and hence cost of an overdrive box for a TR6 has any one ever had a go at trying to fit a J type OD to the rear of their non OD box, one from another Triumph ? Other Triumphs with J type OD that come up regularly on eBay include Spitfire, GT6, Dolomite & Sprint and Stag.
You would need to source a longer mainshaft but I am guessing they are easily available at not too much cost, I think they might be interchagable with the Sprint for CR cars. The output flange shouldn't pose to many problems at worse a modified UJ on the end of the prop.
What concerns me is the adaptor plate that mounts the OD to the rear of the box ? Maybe could make one up by cutting the redundant flange off the old gearbox tail (the bit that the OD replaces) similary cutting the adaptor plate that mates the OD to the unwanted gearbox i.e. sprint and welding the two bits together ?
Are all input drive shafts to J type OD's the same or are there loads of different shaft diameters and spline counts ? bet its the latter :-(
If you could crack this one then I think you would have a ready market especially if you could use the LH OD from rubber bumper MGB's as these are really common. cheers Ben.
find your self a gearbox/overdrive from a saloon. 2.0 2.5 have 25% od. 2.5pi 28% od.
use saloon clutch plate,change speedo drive gears [easy], correct rear drive flange and thats its.
richard
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Hi
I'm about to replace outer sill on my TR6 and wondered if anyone could suggest the best place to buy them.I believe some of the sills are made from thinner steel and also hard to get good fit.Thanks for any help.
Albert
i got a left hand heritage one from carl at tr trader 3 years ago,fit seemed ok, but its the only one ive ever fitted.
weld the top as stuart says then jack bottom up before welding bottom to floor.i fitted it along with new floor and inner cill.
really really really **** job to do.forward of the A post its a sandwich of 3 sections, and the outer cill isnt the outer piece from memory.
could really do with fitting a new right hand cill, but putting it of as long as possible.
richard
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Suddenly I cannot get the gearstick to lift so that it will go into reverse gear. It does not matter if the engine is running or not.
We have taken the stick out and compared it with other ones, nothing.
We have put in new screw adjusters in and set them up, nothing.
We have given the whole area a good supply of grease, nothing.
The liitle spring and ball was there.
When the stick is out the three shift rods in the top cover sit perefctly aligned and can be moved very easilly with a piece of wood. No feeling of sticking anywhere.
It seems that the domed piece of metal under the cap with the bayonette cutouts does not move or does not allow the gearlever to lift up through the metal dome's hole. There is a lip on the gearlever.
When I wobble the gearlever around for sometime, it then suddenly goes very smoothly into gear.
The gear changes are all very smooth. (Laycock clutch)
Anybody had something like this before.
the gear lever does not lift to go into reverse. not in my car anyway.
it just sort of clicks then goes across to reverse postion.
if you have the gearbox tunnel cover off.take of the top of the gbox and check.
and check the reverse gear lever is all ok.
as you look into the gear box it is at the rear left side of box.
its quite simple it only swings back and forward engaging the reverse gear.
the levers is fixed and pivots on a bolt through the side of the gear box.
has the nut come loose on the out side of the box. or has the lever bent.
richard
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I have just removed the steering rack boots to replace them and don't think this can be correct?
The arm nearest the steering pinion seems to be bent! When the ball is centred the arm comes off at an angle
Has this been bent or is it how it is designed...]
that looks bent. undo the the big nut, and take it out to check.
richard
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Ok can somebody tell me which year model dashboard this is I can't seem to find a picture of one thats the same anywhere it has no warning lights below the gauges it has no hazard light switch anywhere let alone between the speedo and tacho where I thought it should be. etc etc the car as you can see in the comm plate is supposed to be a 74 built 75 deivered I'm confused
Comm Number CR6595 0
if it hasnt got any extra warning lights/hazard, it looks like a cp model with a wrong washer shaped switch fitted.
richard
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Can't believe that a hole outside the seal will allow air into the tank!
a pictures worth ?
i have put a small allen key in the hole, to show it better.
richard
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Hi All, on my `73 TR6 there are two wires running to the starter motor solonoid, one is white with a red trace as per the wiring diagram and presumably goes back to the ignition switch and the other (thinner) wire is white with a yellow trace. According to the wiring diagram there should also be two brown wires, one to the ammeter and the other to a connector block. No mention of a white/yellow wire!!
Can anyone shed any light on this? Thanks, Steve.
white and yellow goes to the coil.and it would originaly have had a ballast wire also on coil.
richard
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Hi all,
I have just converted my CR 6 to carbs and used the return fuel pipe into the tank (the thin one)as a tank vent to exit under the rear wing. On looking at the PI works manual, I can see no reference to a tank vent for the PI system. Is the fuel cap designed to permit an air-bleed into the tank, such that a separate vent was not needed? Logically, the return fuel must be less in volume so there must be a reason why the tank didn't come under vacuum. I am getting unwanted petrol fumes from the vent I have installed,when working under the car and would be happier without them! Has anybody got the answer?
Regards
GoGuy
i had problems with fuel smells on my usa carb car.i blocked the vent pipes.
then drilled a 2 or 3mm hole angled 45deg through the neck of the petrol cap.very easy its alloy.
just make sure it is outside of the rubber seal where the cap sits. problem solved.
richard
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Would you post a pic of yours fitted please , when you get a mo
Tar
Cheers
Guy
heres a picture of mine.it lasted about 1000 miles before packing up.
it did give a couple of miles of warning, missing and backfiring.
not like a good old condensor.no warning.
i have now seen the light and fitted megajolt.
richard
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if there like the window seals on my hard top, very slack, just use your fingers.
richard
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I've been wondering about the lifters. If I don't remove them, what happens? If there's too much crud in the holes to get them out, just leave them? Without any weight on them, won't they just hover above the cam lobes?
As for the noise, a compression tester with hose, gauge removed, tie wrapped facing down with an air filter type foam attached to the opening should work wonderfully. Comments?
you cant take the lifters out from above.
try a bit of wire bent into a u shape. push into the follower.might be able to keep them up that way.
or just ignore them they will just hover.
good idea about the compession tester hose.
get 2 large thick polythene bags one inside the other and put over loose end of hose, fix with elastic bands.
will keep the air clean going in and out of the cylinder and might keep the noise down too.
richard
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I've got to drive a newly acquired 1975 TR6 with a known bad camshaft 1600 miles home. The # 5 exhaust lobe is worn to the point where the expanded exploded air fuel charge cannot fully escape thus popping back through the intake valve when it opens really messing things up. If I pull the #5 plug wire, everything smooths out considerably because the un-exploded mix can escape through the exhaust opening. Do I have any other options? Should I try to eliminate the intake charge by pulling the plug or the intake push rod? I'm not really all that concerned about driving the distance on 5 unless I am missing something here. I once drove TR3 2600 miles on 3 with a burnt exhaust valve. The only thing that really suffered was fuel economy. At $0.29 per gallon, that wasn't all that bad.
i drove my car with a gradualy knackering ex lobe 500 miles before i figured out whot it was.no damage done
id take the inlet push rod out and pull the plug out there will be no resistance but it will be noisy.
only problem i can think of is **** been pulled in and out of the cylinder which could damage the bore.
plus its already knackered,and your going to have to strip it anyway.
i presume your in the states talking that kind of milage.
richard
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i can get 30+ mpg on my boring,low tech,sneered at,unloved,etc,etc, SUs.
but i wouldnt change them.
richard
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my oil pressure 70 100 when cold but when it gets hot,properly hot it 50. are you giving it chance to get warm
it will take 20 min good driving,not tootling around, to get your oil up to proper working temp.
if its still high when its hot,[you cant hold the pressure relief big nut in your bare hand]
try cutting 1/8" at a time of your old pressure relief spring and see if that brings it down.
just read your first post, put your old pressure releif valve back in and make sure the bore
it sits in is clean and not full of gunge.
richard
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I have a similar problem, ie no whining but a slight clonk on engagement from stop in forward and reverse. The UJ's have all been replaced and the pins and bushes are all fine. Can someone identify the thrust washers for me , perhaps from the Moss catalogue so I can see what I'm looking for. In addition is this a difficult fix. Presumably you need to undo the half shafts to the back wheels .....
Thanks
Robin
items 47 are bronze and 49[plastic] in moss catalogue.you will have to take the diff out to get at it.
and now just to throw some petrol on the fire,
with so little bronze in the diff there no excuse for not using superior GL5 oil.
richard
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My diff has about 250,000 miles on it now and it is still on its original bearings, but I have had to replace these bronze thrust washers twice, and they need doing again.
If they are badly worn, the number stamping will have worn off, but the unworn bit in the middle can be measured for thickness and new ones purchased to suit
Neil
must have been lucky with mine.still had numbers on.65" thou i think
moss list loads of sizes,but they only stock a few sizes.
richard
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if your diff is not whining.you dont need to mess with the pinnion and crown wheel.
i wouldnt bother replacing the bearings if its not whining.new bearing probably worse than old.
to get rid of all the backlash,its the play in the planet gears.
you can replace the 2 small bronze cup shaped thrust washers.these will have worn.
they have their original size stamped on the back.
and there are 2 more larger thrust washers usualy delrin/hard plastic.
you dont need any special tools [spreaders] big screw driver will prize it out.
richard
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........that's the first question. The second is if so are the Ford type shrouds the best (the MG upgrade ones from Moss) or should I stick to the "o" ring type listed for the 6.
Thanks in anticipation.
i fitted some from a landrover discovery 300 tdi, on my inlets, tight fit but they went on.
i wouldnt put them on a new engine/head but once run in ok.
richard
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Rob,
I'm 2 miles from the airport in Wythenshawe. I know Poynton well enough. A certain Mr Pott's from Poynton painted my panels for me last year. Thanks for the heads up on Quasar. If I get stuck I will give them a call.
Back to the subject matter. I've mentioned earlier that the head in this form has been on since 1994. I've put the sleeve back in the guide and re-fitted the valve. There is minimum play and the valve moves very smoothly. I recon the valve is straight. In the process of debating whether to just put he head back on and see how it goes.
Steve
if the head is off just buy some new guides or just the loose one.they are cheap and are easily drifted out and back in again.
if you havent got a reamer buy a few more guides than you need, pick and mix so you dont end up with tight ones.
richard
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Hi
I'm just fitting a Phoenix Cross Box SS exhaust system. There's a bracket following the kit that fits around the single pipe (not the one that goes at the rear) that I have difficulties to figure out where to attach.
The bracket has two holes for bolts on the top.
Hope anyone can give me an advice or even a picture of where this is ment to go.
PIAA
By the way: What's the trick getting pictures in the posts? I've attached pics on several posts but it seems to be a size quota that for my sake which now is at it's maximum.
re the pictures .try email the pictures to yourself,and tick the opotion let outlook make them smaller.
richard
REAR LIGHTS
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by rpurchon
yes i have them on my car but mines a CC spec car.
does the vin number begin cp or is it cc
richard