rpurchon
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Posts posted by rpurchon
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I've just bought a set of saloon HS6 carbs and manifold to replace the Strombergs on my USA model TR6.
The manifold is better and lines up with the wide ports on the head but The tops of the carbs are hitting the bonnet reinforcing strut. Is this a common experience?
Also the car is very slow to accelerate and spits back through the carbs. I've tried opening the mixture nut and is now at 3 turns open but still no performance. The needles are the standard BDB versions. Any ideas on how to get it back to at least the stromberg performance?
i have bae needles and yellow springs they dont catch on the bonnet.from memory 2 turns was far too rich on my car.
have a good search on the net re tuning and balacing the carbs. persevere and you will have trouble free motoring.
richard
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Chaps,
I have taken a front wing off my 72 6 today to carry out some repairs. The wing had a flexible flller between the joints. I am wondering what commercially available filler, I should use, when I bolt my wing back on. Any advice would be helpful.
Regards,
John.
are you talking about the small joint between wing and scuttle/bottom of windscreen.
dum dum is fine.or more expensive is black polyurathene but this will glue the panels toghether.good on the rear wing to deck joints.
dont overpaint though.
richard
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looking at the haynes it seems to suggest that i have to remove the steering rack,indicators,overdrive all manner of things..is it possible to just undo the screws you mentioned and pull the facia forwardto undo the clocks etc/
thanks
if you just want to remove the wood bit,its just the visible screws,speedo,tacho.
richard
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My TR6 from 76 is not level, although I have changed both rear springs. The rear left wheel has much more negative camber than the other. It has left steering wheel. Is there a fix for this?
does it look like this after you have jacked the car up without moving it.
or after driving it, [without reversing].
richard
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Thanks Neil, I'm now looking into this as I have spare manifolds with butterflies in good condition. Have to fit throttle position sensors and things too but I love a challenge.
Tony
id get it on the road and set up as it is.no one can tell how its running.just by listening to the sound from a youtube video.
if you want to fit individual butterflys later .at least you will be able to compare before and after.
richard
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Hi Guys -
On recently starting my early CP TR6 engine that had been rebuilt some 10 years earlier (supposed). I found that although it sounded great, I had no oil pressure! On inspection I found the oil pump drive shaft and oil pump were not connecting because they were physically not long enough to meet. After consultation with some notable suppliers they were under the impression it was solely me not lining them up properly - back to the drawing board.
After taking the oil pump and drive gear out and checking, measuring and comparing them with a friend's spare, it transpires that my oil pump shaft and gear drive were at least 5mm shorter and definitely not connecting! The oil pump is the new design but I am assured that the shaft are the same, however I'm not so sure about the gear drive. Has any body else come across this problem? Furthermore, has anybody got a spare gear drive they would be willing to sell? My drive shaft from the bottom of the gear to the very bottom of the shaft is 40mm - is this the right measurement? I think I need at least another 5-8mm to make contact with the oil pump.
Hopefully one of you will be able to help me out on this one!
Cheers, Steve
drive gear 40mm long oil pump 90mm.as ntc says check the dowel/pin that goes through the gear and drive spindle.
richard
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If the tracking is OK what camber are the wheels running at? If you are running with lowered springs you may have too much negative, it depends on what you use the car for.
5mm spring seat insulators are avalable instead of 3mm which will reduce negative camber ( top and bottom of spring) or for touring use try the Moss Road spring set rear - uprated raised (pair) TT4211PR
never touched the springs.the insulators are probably 3mm and rubber,and it doesnt sit low at the back end.
the back end is nice and soft for want of another word.i recon they are the original springs.
they look like they have been on 40 years.but who knows
richard
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i did have laser tracking doing on mine and the oldish guy knew what he was doing.but its still wrong.
the camber changes a hell of a lot when you jack the back end up.he wheels droop out.
and if you jack the front corner up the oppsite rear wheel goes in.so it makes sense to do it loaded.
i think checking should be done with the car loaded.that is with the driver sat in the drivers seat.
driving into the garage with no reversing or manouvering about.
now the tyres shot i will move 1 shim from outer to inside bracket.put a stripe of paint on the tyre and see how it wears on a short run.
richard
finaly got around to moving a shim on the rear of the car.heres a very low tech way of checking the tracking.
i used a strip of black gaffer tape which has a grey backing.can of squirty contact adhesive.
the picture is after a 10 mile drive.it took longer to wear than i thought.
its still wearing more on the inside.but looks to have moved across 1/3 of the tyre
i will try again with a unworn tyre,and see if makes any difference.
trouble is its raining now.
this would be a good way of getting the tyre pressure something like.
richard
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What really odd spelling as well Rodders. Ferrari used too have reliability issues of real significance, but they sold to people who wanted what they offered. Just over 100HP in a heavy sports car with a specific image is laughable. David.
so sorry about the speeelling but as yuo cna see i know mi place
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I'd be interested to put my old 250 with SU's (+ tr5/6 head+cam) up against a good PI car anytime. I don't know where you chaps are running the cars to think that a carb set-up is sluggish, we are hard pressed to find a road where you can exceed the available top end performance and give a good account against modern traffic at the traffic light Grand Prix. Starts first spin, no Hi-Torque **** needed, and sails to the top of Stelvio without a cough
john
il agree with you totatly there john.but you are wasting your breath as far as pi owners go.they are snobs
its like that old sketch with john cleese ronnie corbit and ronnie barker.
richard SUs, i know my place .
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Seller has come back to me. Apparently he has no fitting bits to go with the top. I've tried looking on Moss and Rimmers for a kit, but most of the bits required seem to be NLA. Does anybody know of a place to source the bits needed? Or have any for sale themselves?
I only ask, as my car is white, so a black top would complement it quite well I think. But as Alec pointed out, it is starting to look like bagging a factory top could end up being a whole load of faff and expense.
I've seen the Honeybourne one, while Rimmers also offer a Lenham-style top, but have no idea whether they are any good or not. As far as I know, non-factory examples require removal of the hood and frame to fit them, which is obviously not ideal either.
Matt
the front and rear fittings are just bolts.dont get too hung up about the door or b post fittings,i made a fastener from a strip of metal with a twist in.on my first top.
got some original ones now.
also the original arent a great design with a big lump of cast iron sticking out near your lug hole.
richard
richard
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yes it can be done. you need a small child who can handle a screwdriver.!
but seriously there are only 2 screws holding the solenoid on.bit awkward to get at.
check your gbox cover if its the original board one it might have metal access covers you can remove.
richard
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if you drive at altitude a lot. fit some carbs, SUs or webers. would be the best option.
plus theyre would be a lot less to go wrong long term once fitted maintance wise.
put all the pi stuff in a box and save it if you ever decicde to sell.
i have humble SUs on my car and it goes great,wouldnt even consider pi.
richard
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Unless the specification states to load a vehicle with balast for wheel alignment it should be empty. The specs (caster/camber/SAI) are worked so that when the car is static and the car matches those specs it will, once in motion, be as the factory (or later specialist) intended!
I would recommend getting a good 4 wheel alignment check done by somebody who knows what they are doing. In the right hands laser is good but most don't really know what they are doing. A computerised 4 wheel alignment is always best as it takes the 'guesswork' out of the alignment.
i did have laser tracking doing on mine and the oldish guy knew what he was doing.but its still wrong.
the camber changes a hell of a lot when you jack the back end up.he wheels droop out.
and if you jack the front corner up the oppsite rear wheel goes in.so it makes sense to do it loaded.
i think checking should be done with the car loaded.that is with the driver sat in the drivers seat.
driving into the garage with no reversing or manouvering about.
now the tyres shot i will move 1 shim from outer to inside bracket.put a stripe of paint on the tyre and see how it wears on a short run.
richard
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My car nearly failed it's MOT due to uneven wear on the rear Pirelli P6000 195/65 R15 91V's I had fitted back in 2009, just a mere 12500 miles ago.
It could be my lead foot, but I am certain I had much better wear from the Bridgestone ER30's that were previously fitted. Are the P6000's fast to wear? Should I consider another brand of tyre for my enthusiastic motoring?
The wear is on the inside edge, the outers look untouched, so what needs adjusting (apart from me).
Thanks
Terry
i have same problem on my car perhaps a tad worse.tyres 205/60 on 6" rims now 5 years old and 18000 miles.
rear drivers side inside edge.i had 4 wheel laser tracking done when i fitted them.because the old ones were the same.
i had to swap one shim round on the ofending wheel then took it back for re checking.so not tracking/toe in.the rear brackets are the right way round and poly bushes fitted.so how do you alter the rear camber. before i fit some new tyres. 195/65 next time.
richard
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Dear TR6 experts,
I have a '72 CP series car in good nick, but it stood unused for 15 years-ish before I bought it. It is now MOT'd and taxed but......
After 15 mins of running it boils its coolant onto the floor. (Good job the MOT tester has a sense of humour!) The overflow bottle is missing. It runs on horribly on switching off.
I have removed the thermostat, backflushed everything till clean water comes through, the water pump is pumping well and the rad gets warm all over with no cold areas. I have tried several proprietary flushing agents to no avail and in deperation am about to put enough central heating descaler in to to do a 4 bedroom house!
The timing is set, checked and re-checked at 4 degrees BTDC and the dizzy and rotor arm point the right way as per the manual and it runs smoothly and drives well. I am not familiar with the 6 cyl engine but from the workshop manual there seems to be very little access to the water jackets by taking the cylinder head off.
I had to replace two core plugs as one by the dizzy was weeping and another under the exhaust manifold blew out, so I imagine that the block is full of rust.
My question is: can I get at the water passages without taking the engine out and removing the large number or coreplugs?
Your advice would be much appreciated.
Willie Felger
'72 CP series TR6
'59 TR3A
remove all the drain tap by no 5/6 exhaust.if water actually comes out.
try get the end of a power washer in the hole.that should stir things up at the back of the block.could be veeery messy though.
richard
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Thanks for all the responses. I've decided to go for the 3.45.
Any suggestions as to a good place to source said item?
Cheers
Steve
you dont have to get a tr6 one. saloons and stag will fit if you swap the front and rear covers.
also you can tell whether its a 3.7 or 3.45 by the paint on the half shaft nuts. i think red 3.45 yellow 3.7
im sure some one will chip in here !
richard
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Are there any suppliers of Black Polybushes in the UK , i have only seen Graphite impregnated bushes in the USA.
Any UK stockist , just dont fancy any of the fancy coloured types .. Thanks Roy
tr shop london do them.and they seem quite cheap.
richard
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Evening folks,
dont panic input shaft wobble is normal.
i thought the dowel bolts were at 9 & 3 0 clock ish postion
richard
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Just after a bit of advise and experience. Gearbox is coming out to retro-fit an A-type OD, but as its out, and the shaft has to come out Ive been advised to replace the synchro's.
I know theres been alot of discussion regarding quality etc, but where in peoples opinion is the best place to source replacements from.
Locally, Ive been told people have had good results with the set from Canley Classics, but after opinions please.
Cheers
Andrew
if the ones in your existing gearbox are ok.ie gears select easily.dont crunch .use them.
richard
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plug leads mixed up
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It'd be a question of getting it absolutely flat though wouldn't it
Simon
i have a spare you can have too. for free.
cant make it to harrogate but you will be passing pretty near.
richard
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Hi, I have a TR6 and am running it on HS6 carburetors (ID tags FZX1263). Could anyone tell me the best needle type for performance and economy for these carburetors? Thanks in advance
same, BAE needles yellow springs.home made airbox,cone type air filter
richard
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Hello all,
My 73 decided to shear its clutch taper pin a couple of months ago so while the transmission was out to replace all of the clutch stuff, i added a j type overdrive to the original 4 speed box [renewed its bearings etc while apart]. Upon reinstallation the drive shaft is a much tighter fit then before. Have others experienced this?
I was able to unbolt the drive shaft originally and pull it rearward a half inch or so [comressing the sliding spline] but with the o/d it is fully compressed and then just barely can be coerced into place and bolted up to the od output flange. Need to add that the o/d was originally a volvo unit and a volvo flange but appears to be exactly like the tr o/d excepting it is a 27% o/d vs the 25. Case is the same.
Thanks
heres a picture of a new flange.also the recess on the end where prop shaft fits in is 60mm dia.
saloon ones dont fit a tr propshaft. dont know about volvo
richard
Steel Hardtop weight?
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by rpurchon
just put my hardtop top back on, weight. 29.6 kg. thats complete. headlining all nuts and bolts,side fixings,chrome trim.
weighed the viynl soft top just to be a anorack.12 kg
richard